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Nov 18 2009, 02:26 PM
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#401
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![]() Advanced Member Group: Silver Member Posts: 1096 Joined: 3-April 08 From: West Brisbane Member No.: 7857 Toyota Model:ST184R Celica Turbo, NCP91R Vitz |
I was thinking of this one... AEM Wideband Or can you recommend one that would be right for the set-up i am currently running? Evo I personally am a big fan of the zeitronix system i have... but that might not suit your needs. http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/zt2/zt2.htm What i need is something that can run on the factory sensor Evo there is no such thing man. the factory sensor is a narrowband sensor and is completely useless for tuning or monitoring afr's. you want a wideband sensor to monitor afr's/tune with. they are completely different sensors. |
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Nov 18 2009, 06:59 PM
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#402
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Member Posts: 1140 Joined: 8-April 08 From: Sydney Member No.: 7924 Toyota Model:ZRE Ascent Spec-R |
Hey my stupid question, is a pseudo cai consisting of alumium pipes and silicone conecters better then my sri set up?
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Nov 19 2009, 08:06 AM
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#403
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Member Posts: 234 Joined: 27-December 07 From: Melbourne, Orstraya! Member No.: 6485 Toyota Model:1991 Celica SX |
Hey my stupid question, is a pseudo cai consisting of alumium pipes and silicone conecters better then my sri set up? It depends what you're tuning it for. Crudely, a properly constructed CAI will maximise the velocity of the incoming air and take advantage of resonance effects without being restrictive at high rpm (at least, over the effective range of the engine). The SRI will almost certainly not be restrictive at high rpm, but is not necessarily the best design for optimising power output throughout the rpm range. It's an empirical question and ultimately a matter of trade-off. People on the interwebs often think that any setup is better than that which comes from the factory, as if by default. In most cases, physical principles never enter into their minds. My stupid question time... the crank pulley is a PITA to get to in order to turn the #1 piston to TDC. Is it alright if I turn the much more easily accessable alternator pulley instead to achieve this, or do I risk breaking/wearing something out? |
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Nov 19 2009, 08:45 AM
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#404
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![]() Advanced Member Group: Silver Member Posts: 1096 Joined: 3-April 08 From: West Brisbane Member No.: 7857 Toyota Model:ST184R Celica Turbo, NCP91R Vitz |
Hey my stupid question, is a pseudo cai consisting of alumium pipes and silicone conecters better then my sri set up? It depends what you're tuning it for. Crudely, a properly constructed CAI will maximise the velocity of the incoming air and take advantage of resonance effects without being restrictive at high rpm (at least, over the effective range of the engine). The SRI will almost certainly not be restrictive at high rpm, but is not necessarily the best design for optimising power output throughout the rpm range. It's an empirical question and ultimately a matter of trade-off. People on the interwebs often think that any setup is better than that which comes from the factory, as if by default. In most cases, physical principles never enter into their minds. My stupid question time... the crank pulley is a PITA to get to in order to turn the #1 piston to TDC. Is it alright if I turn the much more easily accessable alternator pulley instead to achieve this, or do I risk breaking/wearing something out? if its on your celica its not that difficult to get to. Pull the drivers side wheel off, and then get a 19mm(i think) socket and put it on the bolt that holds the crank pulley on, then turn it.. |
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Nov 19 2009, 10:07 AM
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#405
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Member Posts: 234 Joined: 27-December 07 From: Melbourne, Orstraya! Member No.: 6485 Toyota Model:1991 Celica SX |
if its on your celica its not that difficult to get to. Pull the drivers side wheel off, and then get a 19mm(i think) socket and put it on the bolt that holds the crank pulley on, then turn it.. Yeah, it's strictly not that hard, but if there's an easier way I'm all for it. I think one would also need to take off the RH engine cover to gain access, which in my case was bolted on partly underneath the LH. Just a bit of a hassle. |
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Nov 19 2009, 11:48 AM
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#406
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![]() Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Member Posts: 1140 Joined: 8-April 08 From: Sydney Member No.: 7924 Toyota Model:ZRE Ascent Spec-R |
Hey my stupid question, is a pseudo cai consisting of alumium pipes and silicone conecters better then my sri set up? It depends what you're tuning it for. Crudely, a properly constructed CAI will maximise the velocity of the incoming air and take advantage of resonance effects without being restrictive at high rpm (at least, over the effective range of the engine). The SRI will almost certainly not be restrictive at high rpm, but is not necessarily the best design for optimising power output throughout the rpm range. It's an empirical question and ultimately a matter of trade-off. People on the interwebs often think that any setup is better than that which comes from the factory, as if by default. In most cases, physical principles never enter into their minds. well i want it for induction noise and same or more torque down low, cuz with the hot air especially in summer i dont want to feel like a slug from lights |
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Nov 19 2009, 11:52 AM
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#407
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![]() Advanced Member Group: Silver Member Posts: 1096 Joined: 3-April 08 From: West Brisbane Member No.: 7857 Toyota Model:ST184R Celica Turbo, NCP91R Vitz |
if its on your celica its not that difficult to get to. Pull the drivers side wheel off, and then get a 19mm(i think) socket and put it on the bolt that holds the crank pulley on, then turn it.. Yeah, it's strictly not that hard, but if there's an easier way I'm all for it. I think one would also need to take off the RH engine cover to gain access, which in my case was bolted on partly underneath the LH. Just a bit of a hassle. engine cover? mine doesn't have any sort of engine covers... |
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Nov 19 2009, 01:46 PM
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#408
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Member Posts: 234 Joined: 27-December 07 From: Melbourne, Orstraya! Member No.: 6485 Toyota Model:1991 Celica SX |
well i want it for induction noise and same or more torque down low, cuz with the hot air especially in summer i dont want to feel like a slug from lights In that case, I would be leaning towards the CAI. As to whether your setup will be effective in achieving your aims, it's difficult to say without knowing more about it. It will probably make more noise than stock, but simply changing the size/shape/materials of the tubing does not necessarily mean more torque. But by no means am I an expert on the subject, I'm not an engineer. I'm trying to design a proper one for my Celi, but I'm still learning. |
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Nov 19 2009, 01:50 PM
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#409
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Regular Member Posts: 234 Joined: 27-December 07 From: Melbourne, Orstraya! Member No.: 6485 Toyota Model:1991 Celica SX |
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Nov 19 2009, 02:18 PM
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#410
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![]() Advanced Member Group: Moderator Posts: 2047 Joined: 1-June 08 Member No.: 8656 Toyota Model:Corolla ZZE-123 |
sounds like a splash guard
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Nov 19 2009, 02:20 PM
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#411
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![]() Advanced Member Group: Silver Member Posts: 1096 Joined: 3-April 08 From: West Brisbane Member No.: 7857 Toyota Model:ST184R Celica Turbo, NCP91R Vitz |
engine cover? mine doesn't have any sort of engine covers... Really? You don't have a couple of big, black plastic covers bolted onto the chassis underneath your engine? that would be a splash guard, and nope don't have any of them |
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Nov 20 2009, 05:15 PM
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#412
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![]() April 2008 Member of the Month Group: Silver Member Posts: 3365 Joined: 11-November 04 From: Dave Engineering, Brisbane Member No.: 386 Toyota Model:2004 Corolla RunX |
My stupid question time... the crank pulley is a PITA to get to in order to turn the #1 piston to TDC. Is it alright if I turn the much more easily accessable alternator pulley instead to achieve this, or do I risk breaking/wearing something out? Not having worked on your model Celica I can't say if it is applicable, but just remove any under panels, slap a socket and breaker bar on the nut for the crank pully and turn slowly clockwise (so you don't actually loosen the nut). I guess another option is to rotate via the flywheel by removing the gearbox |
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Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 22nd November 2009 - 07:53 AM |