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Showing most liked content since 10/24/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Finally got around to checking the manual. Apparently there are 3 drain cocks. Attached document may be of some further assistance Toyota and Lexus 35l V6 2GRFE coolant bleeding trick.doc
  2. 2 points
    Really wanted the sportivo blue lights, and rather than spend $100 on a cluster from ebay, i got inspired by thread on here to use coloured plastic, in this case from my kids school books haha Was tempted to go crazy with it, but chose to keep it a factory look as with everything im doing with this car. Comparision
  3. 2 points
    This clip basically showed exactly what to do, obviously compeltely different model of car, but in essense is EXACTLY the same. However we got luxury of drain plug! But you see the same stuff, drain fluid out, change filter, insert new oring, new gasket, bolt up in star pattern, fill with whatever came out. Ez lyf Change Auto Trans fluid Thanks
  4. 1 point
    Hi guys just an update on ACV36R cabin filter, I have been reading forums and watch YouTube videos and found out that earlier model Hiluxes didn't have a cabin filter from the factory but it was possible to cut open and install one. So this got me thinking maybe we can do the same in our ACV36R Camry's. So I went to the wreckers and found a ACV36R Camry and start cutting open the slot behind the glove box where the cabin filter should be installed, and yes we can install a cabin filter. The cut isn't perfect as I wasn't used a good knife but the space is there. I found a early model Corolla and grabbed the cabin filter tray on it, surprisingly the Corolla had a cabin filter from the factory and slid the tray into the slot on the Camry and it is almost a perfect fit. Strange why Toyota wouldnt install a cabin filter from the factory as the ACV36R was once Toyota's flagship car. Even the Toyota Echo has a factory cabin filter slot.
  5. 1 point
    I’ve been using Redline MT90 with Nulon G70 additive in my gearbox for the pass 10,000kms and decided to try the Motul Gear 300 transmission fluid as I’ve heard a lot of positive feedback from it especially from 86 enthusiasts. It’s a GL-4/GL-5 rated fully synthetic oil and boasts Ester technology found in Motul’s top of the line 300v motorsport engine lubricants. Before I go into a brief review I should probably should give a rundown of my Sportivo. It currently has 168,000kms on it with a heavy duty stage 1 Exedy clutch setup and lightweight chromoly flywheel. When I bought it 2 years ago from a mature driver it was bone stock. The condition of the gearbox was good but as we are all aware it’s a major weakness in the Sportivo and will crunch if you don’t get the shifts on point. If your timing was off, 2nd and 3rd would sometimes refuse to go in and at high rpm I would experience a slight crunch in 2nd or 3rd. On cold mornings shifting felt a little notchy until the car warmed up. Upgrading the clutch helped immensely along with changing the transmission fluid to Redline MT90 with the Nulon G70 additive. All these issues were addressed with the modifications and only on the very rare occasion I would experience a slight crunch going into 2nd at high rpm. The filler spout that comes with Motul bottle means there's no need for a separate pump when refilling transmission fluid. I went ahead and changed the drain plug to a magnetic piece off a Toyota Landcruiser. Should capture any metal shavings floating around the gearbox. Part no. 9034118057. I didn’t expect to feel much or any difference switching to Motul Gear 300 but I was pleasantly surprised after a week’s driving through twisty roads and through traffic. Gear shifting felt noticeably smoother and quieter. I’m not sure what’s in the Motul lubricant but the mechanical noise from the gearbox when shifting hard seems to be a lot quieter. Not that it was loud at all to begin with but the change was noticeable. No signs of any crunching or notchy shifting either on cold mornings. I didn’t add Nulon G70 to it just so I could test Motul Gear 300 on its own. Driving the car now is a lot more pleasurable with smooth shifts especially when pushing it as it instills confidence in the gearbox resulting in a better overall driving experience. I will review it again at a later stage once I’ve clocked more mileage on the car but so far Motul Gear 300 gets a thumbs up from me.
  6. 1 point
    Wanted a luxo looking interior in my touring SE. After fitting a presara steering wheel, i couldnt afford the crazy prices the wreckers were asking for a couple bits of fake woodgrain, so i imported some high quality vinyl from the U.S. and went to work. I never realized when ordering the vinyl, it had a matte finish, bit of a bummer, but im pleased with it being my first attempt at vinyl wrapping anything
  7. 1 point
    Get this one instead:
  8. 1 point
    Apparently they are all same. I have polished stainless but am considering black powder coat.
  9. 1 point
    The reason your headlights are narrow and the reverse lights are miserable, is because you have illegal tint fitted. Of course you won't be able to see anything!
  10. 1 point
    No, take them out and have a look.
  11. 1 point
    Hi Martin, I have a very poor copy of the TOYOTA instructions for Tow Bar Wiring in PDF format that show you the part numbers etc. All the best with it mate, hope it helps you out. Aurion_Towbar_Wiring_Harness.pdf.PdfCompressor-894151.pdf
  12. 1 point
    When I do an oil change, initially I remove the oil filter cartridge housing and check the filter cartridge for the amount of oil sludge. Then, I undo the sump plug and let it drain for about 5-10 minutes until there is only an occasional drop. While waiting, you can replace the filter cartridge and cartridge housing. Jacking up the side of the car also helps to drain that bit of oil sitting at the bottom of the sump. My engine usually takes 6 litres then about a week later, I recheck oil level and top up, if required.
  13. 1 point
    Pay attention to where the drain plug is on the sump too and which way you jack the car up to reach it - if the plug is at the front and you raise the front of the car then there will naturally be some oil sitting in the back of the sump due to the way it is tilted back.
  14. 1 point
    Hi i have a 97 hilux dual cab 2wd ute with a 22 r motor i am wanting to do it up im thinking of rebuilding the 22r motor and working it a bit cam/bored and carby ect my question is are the 22r motors worth doing up or should i be looking for another 4 cylinder to do up and put in was also thinking trying a turbo not sure what other engine i could use if it would be better than the 22r any help would be much appreciated cheers
  15. 1 point
    Buy the ISO adapters! Get a Camry to ISO and an ISO to whichever headunit you have. Aerpro - APP0141 like below.
  16. 1 point
    Just giving an update! The white smoke issue has decided to "stop" now obviously cars don't fix themselves, so when I told my dad that the white smoke stopped, he immediately jumped to the PCV Valve, and reckons that left over sludge in the engine may have kept the valve open allowing the oil to be burned (as there are no oil leaks in the engine bay/pools in the driveway) Going into Toyota today to buy a new valve (or two so we have spares) i'll let you guys know how it turns out
  17. 1 point
    I'm really diggin' these new gen Camry's. It's about time Toyota got serious. I was always worried they'd continue with the same blandness we've had from previous camry's AND losing the V6. I'm glad they are retaining the V6. That's the only engine for me. Can't wait to see them out on the road. The specs will be interesting too.
  18. 1 point
    Wow great find original..and still has a gleam too it..wonderful find..can't wait for the updates as work commences to get it running great to see it alive again as it should be, Keep Well and Good Luck KAA
  19. 1 point
    Alright firstly i want to thank you all, this is my first post, but i feel this thread provided very valuable information on how to DIY the transmission fluid swap. So i feel i should contribute to the post as others have done here to give something back :) A few of the questions i want answered got touched on, but im going to add my 2c, firstly because i have just finished doing the swap (and its bloody simple to do), secondly a few of the questions i had, breifly got answered, but i will go into more detail on the specific questions i had, thirdly, i didnt do it on an aurion, but i did do it on a 2GR-FE powered car. I realise this might not be the right section, but with the addition of what i have to the rest of the thread will help someone else no doubt. Ok, so i bought an imported 2006 Estima Aeras G-Package. Aussie Tarago's are pretty pov by comparison. For those unaware, an Estima is a JDM model Tarago, however has heaps of extra features, but does come factory fitted with a 2GR and a U660E. However one issue i have got is there is virutually no guides for ACR50, GSR50 GSR55 model toyotas, and even the Australian Taragos i feel most people who own them won't know where to even start. I actually have owned many cars and bikes in the past and very compitent in the DIY department hence why i wanted to chip in. So onto what i have discovered: The aurion/camry/ ( US) avalon are essentially identical to the Estima underneath. Granted i have never even touched an ausrion/camry to do any work on, but judging from the other images they look identical to the estima. I simply googled a few guides and the process for the fluid swap was indentical. So anyone with an Estima/Tarago you can follow these Aurion/Camry/(USA Avalon) guides as the platform is nearly identical. And vice versa anythign i picked up about the Estima no doubt will apply to the Aurion/Camry etc. One puzzling thing and could be a sligthy difference is the "death bolt". A 1/4" 10mm socket slips up perfectly between the chassis rail and the trans pan. Wether this is a slight difference, i'm unsure, but looking at the other photos in the thread it looks like you should be able to fit it up. Regardless on Estima slim 10mm socket and you can rip the pan off. I won't go into the detail of how to do it cause others already have, however i will add, that i opt'ed to use Penrite ATF LV (light blue bottle as above). I decided this off others above using it also. I didnt use a scanguage or any method to measure the ATF temp, i applied the same logic as above. Whatever comes out, is what must go in. I purchased a Toyota genuine transmission strainer (filter) @ $140. Yes its pricey. However my logic is i wont change it for another 1-2 years so might as well spend the extra and get a legit filter rather than try save $100 on a filter with unknown quality. My car has 100,000 on the clock and not only do i have the dereg export papers from japan to verify the KM but there are servicing stickers stuck onto the car in Japan so i know its been serviced. Judging by the condition of the car its been very well looked after. When i drained down the stock ATF it was still very red. Now it was still very clear and had a slight dark tint too it, but still in a very decent and serviable state. I replaced the strainer filter, the sump gasket, cleaned out the pan. I drained out of the sump, the strainer and the residual amount came 2.65L. However on the drip trey i had, it looked around another 200ml. So for argument sake lets say 2.8L, which falls in line with others here. The magnets had very minimum amount of sludge on them. Also to note, you cant get the magnet placements wrong as there are 2 indentations into the sump so you where to return them, if you pull them out and clean them. Wiped out the sump, refitted he gasket, fit new strainger, bolt sump on. Bear in mind also. I didnt flush the system out. I decided because the original fluid was still in reasonable shape i figured simply doing a few periodic changes would eventually flush it all free. The system apprently takes over 6L and i nearly recovered 3L just from the pan and filter, Another point is people talk about mixing Toyota WS and other fluids together. Now this is purely my oppinion so take it with a grain of salt. The fluid ive placed in (penrite ATF LV) is specified as a replacement for Toyota WS, it looked just as a viscous, smelt the same, looked t he same and felt the same. I know that is absolutely nothing to go by as you need to study the fluids properties, but imo they look so similar, that mixing them is really not going to cause any issues. Yes ideally flushing out all 6.5L is what is desired but this is about DIY. So my point being. I have a mix of the original Toyota WS and Penrite ATF LV in there. Now the filling is the point where i think alot of people worry. Yes obviously no one wants to get it wrong and blow up the transmission, neither do i! However i really dont think you can go wrong here. I bought some plastic 1L measuring juggs from the shops. I had an empty 3L milk container and filled the 1L jugg from teh drain pan to get the exact measurement. Like i said i ended up with 2.65L with residual in the filter and stuff that kept coming out. So as the Penrite ATF LV is 4L, i basically marked the fill mark a bit above the 1L marker to make it around 2.8L, bought a cheap fluid pump and pumped until that "2.8L" marker. Its not even 100% accurate but its close enough. Once its in, fill plug on and tight, wheel on. Took it for a spin. A little nervous on start up, but nothing to worry about. Took the car for about a 20 minute drive in the back streets and the main roads so i could hear the transmission. I think as the original fluid was quite good there wasnt a huge improvement. However it did seems to change gears a bit smoother. I ran it through the sport mode into all the gears and gave it a hard run. Gear changes are very good and smooth. Absolutely no slippage at all. Over all worthwhile and very simple to do. I think anyone who can DIY change engine oil can follow the guide on here and do the same trans swap. Now granted i have a rough idea how much fluid is in the gearbox (about 2.8L) but thats wat came out give or take 50ml. Car seems to be running fine so cant really see any issues! Any questions let me know, hopefully i can provide someone else with as much help as you guys have offered me :)
  20. 1 point
    Touch up spray paint will never match, and will be especially noticeable if you only do the spot repair. You will need to remove the skirt and paint the whole thing so it doesn't stick out like a sore thumb. If you have no painting experience, the couple hundred bucks you can spend at a professional paint shop might be money well spent than you having to fiddle with it, breaking mounting clips, trying to get paint matched, primer, sandpaper, masking tape, wax and grease remover etc.. Not to mention time. You'll spend a whole day on it.
  21. 1 point
    Water pump is not driven by cam belt, it should be removable without disturbing cam belt. Tensioner has 2 bolts--long one is a pivot, short one is lock bolt, both have to be loosened to adjust cam belt. If not properly tightened, they will eventually release the tension in the cam belt, which will upset cam timing and prob cause valve damages with the pistons. Your motor is prob jammed, rather than seized, but its still harsh and expensive. Very difficult to prove him at fault. It's an old motor-you will have to prove no metal fatigue etc. There's myriad legal outs for him to avoid paying out, and I wouldn't want him sorting it. You're in Qld--you can't be awarded legal costs there. Might not be worth pursuing him. This is why I prefer DIY wherever possible-its my responsibility to get it right, and if I don't-there's no-one else to blame.
  22. 1 point
    The Aurion has these on all models, perhaps the wiring harness from the Aurion?
  23. 1 point
    A question re. the awd/4wd estmia's, are they full time awd or part time? edit: a nice read about imported cars (estima in this case)