peregrine

Chrome the cross bits!!! for just $12 or so buy a roll of chrome pin striping I think I used 9 mil width looks great and wears well I've had mine on for ages and still looks like new. Line up the top of each cross bar with the top of the tape, run it along the length, cut and roll the bottom of the tape under. Its that easy.

While I agree that the cat should not be removed for all the obvious reasons. If there is no gain in power by bypassing the cat how come so much money is being spent by performance cars and others to legitimately reduce back pressure by fitting hi flow cats?

Often get those noises. Traced it only happening when the Missus was in the car? HA HA

I have noticed that nowhere in the service manual on my 1999 Vienta does it suggest that the auto trans: filter be checked or cleaned. Which to me sounds crazy. The filter is a s/s filter that is cleaned and reused over and over.

With the type of driving you are doing, short trips, stop start etc which I would recon be classified as extreme I would suggest you check your owners manual which should recommend earlier oil changes for such conditions. Probably be wise to change your oil every 6 months eg: 7500Ks.If you have just changed your oil from non or semi synthetic to a fully synthetic oil, the change could quite possibly be the reason for the oil turning black, due to better scavenging of sediments left by the other oils.

My car is a 1999 V6 Vienta with 176000+ks on the clock I recently switched over to Nulon 10/40 have not used any oil, have not experienced any problems other than the oil discoloring a bit more than usual, which I expected and is a consequence of the fully synthetic oil doing a better job. Suggest doing an early oil change after the first refill, just to keep things right. By the way the car had been using Castrol Magnetec semi synthetic until then, which I understand is used by many, if not most dealers. Oh and I my mechanic did run an engine flush through first. I've used the same Mechanic for the past 20 years. He's fully Qualified,knows what he is doing and agreed the swap would be fine.

It does state it but i wouldnt bother .. For example when jump starting the car .. You cant jump start with the negative disconnected so i dont understand why they really bother when charging it ... yes but if you don't do it right you could finish up with a stuffed alternator.

Well I suppose like all things, there are good and bad dealers. Not only does the dealer, have to be good. Is the mechanic or apprentice working on your car up to it? When it comes to you, your body, your health, many people elect to have private cover so they can select their preferred specialist etc: at that extra cost. So why not without any added costs find a really good mechanic knowing he will be the one doing your work at no extra cost and will most likely be a lot cheaper. I've been using the same mechanic for over 22 years and my only worry is that he might decide to move or retire.

The reason for disconnecting the battery is to save the possibility of causing damage to the electrics such as the alternator etc:

Thanks Topdog and JMacca53 for your helpful replies. By the way I read somewhere the rubber boots could be purchased in two halves and attached over without having to pull anything apart. I think I got that right!!

Hi, has anyone had problems with leaking power steering pumps? My car is an early 1999 Vienta V6 and the power steering pump has been replaced twice with reconditioned units, prior to my ownership.Replacments in 2008, July 2009 and is leaking again. The reconditioned units cost between $250 to $290 but are they any good? new pumps range in price from $940+ for pumps from Toyota Japan prior to early 1999 models, to $450+ for Ausy built pumps from early 1999 onward. I presume they are interchangeable? It could be that the previous owner had a habit of holding the steering on full lock for extended periods which could be one reason the previous pumps failed. Any help in regards to the best way to go would be appreciated. Thanks in anticipation.

If it won't turn over, nothing or just a clicking sound. Suggest 1. check battery terminals are clean and tight 2 check battery for charge ie could be flat or may be need new battery or reco: alternator . 3 starter motor might need replacing. Or if absolutely nothing, could be wiring. ignition switch, solenoid, etc.

In Victoria, well at least in the areas I've filled up at, Shell not only sells E10 but advertises it as their base price on their boards. I keep away from E10 and use V-Power exclusively I have had no hassles and obtain a return of 8.7ltrs -100Ks on a trip. The car is a 1999 V6 Vienta with 176000Ks on the clock. The trouble you experienced could be conducive to a bad or dirty batch of fuel. PS Ive just purchased some Airtabs (Vortex generators) at$4.50c each from a Sydney mob and will install them at the back of the roof just before and above the rear glass area and on the top rear of the boot to see if this improves economy and whatever. trucks and semis as well as the EVO Lancer use them and Semi operators swear by them.