2zz corolla

Sold

Yea I will when I get a chance just a little busy these day.

Price drop to $150 I now also have a free flowing mid pipe which contains high flow cat and resonator all components are mild steel accept for varex which is stainless. I could sell the complete exhaust including varex for $400 All items I believe are only about 8-12 months old

Hi For sale is a varrex cannon muffler with module and 2 working remotes I'm not quite sure on size I think it's a 2.25inch. This muffler will bolt straight on to a corolla sportivo. Reason for sale came on the car and as it's my daily I'm chasing a standard look. Asking $250 Preferably local buyer

Hey mate might be interested in the resonator you have for sale where are you located?

Just bought a 03 corolla sportivo which had a varrex remote control 2x5 inch exhaust and high flow resenator. Long story short the cars my daily and I'm not chasing performance so I would like to buy some ones standard resenator.... Regards

Mm I cleaned the maf but haven't had a chance to check o2 the car does smell like it runs rich. Other then that runs perfect and fuel efficency seems very good. Maybe I need to clean idle speed control valve looks like a nightmare to get to though. Another werid thing I noticed Is after 20 min drive idle seems to correct it self. So to recap cold idle perfect Engine up to temp idle as low as 500 rpm 15-20 min drive idle back to 700 800 I probably should do ecu reset

Hi there sorry if this has been discussed before. I did a bit of googling and aparently it's normal but I don't understand how Toyota could sell cars with such a rough idle. 2001 echo sportivo 120k on the clock The car is perfect when cold but as soon as it heats up the idle can go as low as 500 usually sits at 600. It doesn't idle hunt just feels very rough. If I turn air con on the idle increases slightly maybe 100-200 rpm. Surely this isn't normal?? Because its a older 1nz it has cable throttle so I was thinking of just adjusting idle screw to increase idle but I'm wondering if a sensor may have failed. Car is perfect otherwise.

It's not the same car but similar. I bought a echo sportivo which uses same motor and I was pleasantly surprised with the power it's enough to get around easily in manual form and to have a bit of fun. The echo sportivo is a little lighter though

thanks for every ones post ill look into it this weekend or next, hope fully find some thing simple. I did recnetly get the front rotors machined and a new resonator installed so might be some thing to do along with those. I know the exhaust does sit lower now and i had to remove the black little metal support under the car as it was hitting that constantly. Cheers Dave

your not in brisbane by any chance are you ?

ts definitely coming from the front of the car but having trouble pin pointing it as i haven’t had some one else turn the wheel yet so basically i just got my head out the window trying to generally pin point it . It is a little hard to believe it could be cv's cars only done 80,000km but i guess time will tell. suspension bushings was my first thought as it doesn’t really sound like a cv joint it just a slight tick like tapping two marbles together. cheers dave

hey tocau I have just noticed a slight tick when the car is cold or doing very slow left or right turns .... you can feel it slightly through the steering wheel. Its only 2 to 4 ticks through the whole turning proccess e.g turning the steering wheel from the very left to the very right and vice versa. I had a look at the cv boots and they look fine with no oil on them and no holes, the car is lowered with king l/sl combo, koni fsd shocks and i made sure the boot was in nice and tight when installed them a couple of months ago.... has any one ever experinced or heard of any thing like this, any info would be greatly aprechiated so i can help the mechanics try and get an idea where to start looking. Thanks Dave

ive found those iphone apps to be pretty inconsistant at times. only thing i could get a consistant time out of was the gtech the best i achieved in standard form with a gtech or lie tech as some people call them was 7.2 to 97km ( only does to 0 to 60mph) so probs 7.4ish with a quick change. from my understanding alot of the tests over in europe hit around 7.5 , as long as you can keep it in lift and get a solid launch your sweet. Only way to realy know the potential of a cars straight line performance is to take it down the quater.... Dave

To just drop the lift point its not realy worth it as total cost could be up to $1500 depending on who tunes it for you and if you run into any un for seen problems. If your looking at modding such as cams after market throttle bodies ect then yea i would recomend it , I wouldnt realy call the power fc a plug and play device ive had it for a couple of months with the harness and still trying to figure out little issues here and there. If you havent done intake and exhaust/headers i would do that first much more bang for buck over power fc. dave