Brad68

Thanks for your fast and always pro answers mick ;) That Celica workshop manual you posted up as well has been an amazing help!

Yea alrightey well the Camry option doesn't sound to great, as i just did shocks and springs upgrade in January and also its a hassle. Having had a good look around the net, getting some slotted rotors from DBA seems like a good option? However ive read plenty about their DBA4000 series cracking at the little sots on the egdes of the rotor.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/186532-are-you-cracking-dba-rotors/page__st__40 Might just go with the Slotted version of the "Street Series" depending on what people say on how they would handle the occasional track day? http://www.dba.com.au/street-series And then top it off with some EBC Green/Red/YellowStuff pads http://www.ebcbrakes.com/selector.shtml

So after taking my Celi to a track day for my birthday and having an amazing time finding what the car was really capable of, unfortunately i just don't think the standard brakes were quite up to the task... Not long after i started to experience a slight shudder from warped discs and its just got worse and worse to the point where its pretty bad now.. So, with my Tax-return just arrived I figure its time for an upgrade as just replacing the standard equipment will probably not last long if intend to go back to the track anytime soon haha. I dont plan to go for super high performance as i dont want to spend all that much (saving for a beams engine swap for this celica and also a supra RZ), but if possible would like to upgrade a little and mainly avoid warped discs in future with track days on the cards. So, with this planned the current questions on my mind are this: - Are the GT4 celica brakes any different/upgrade to the SX celica brakes? Would they be less prone to warping? - If they are any upgrade, can they fit into the standard 15in wheels diameter? (Just for when i feel like it i still use the original wheels now and then, but i mostly use my aftermarket 17inch rims with plenty of room for upgrade) - What can anyone recommend for the front brakes? - What can anyone recommend for the rear brakes and what will/can happen about the drum handbrake system thats mixed with the disc brake? Im gonna look around on the net as well but I just thought I would get some opinions and see what people can tell me here? Any input would be appreciated! Cheers

Update: Bought me a gauge and kit from innovate today now just to wait for it to arrive and we'll see how we go wiring this up

So i found this on good old ebay, should save me a bit of moolah and do the trick? http://cgi.ebay.com/INNOVATE-LC-1-WIDEBAND-CONTROLLER-02-BOSCH-SENSOR-/300495934962?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item45f6f415f2#ht_5732wt_989 Says "convert an existing narrow-band gauge" im hoping that means it can send a narrow band signal for the ecu.

a wideband is *meant* to be 0-5v, with that said when was it changing voltage? just randomly or otherwise? newer narrowband o2 sensors do operate in a wider voltage range, and are heated for (somewhat) more accuracy, but regardless they are no-where near as accutate as a WBO2. as for the multimeter reading, it was consistent fluctuating, and just at idle. However the gauge itself when i went for a test drive, with no throttle sat needle at the bottom. Then with little to almost full throttle it was constantly and consistently bouncing back and forth between low lean to high rich (completely unrelated to throttle position, speed, load, anything...). but with fully opened throttle it would stay up in high rich. confusing as hell.. its like theres no signal at idle, pluses of signal with throttle, and constant signal with WOT. pretty useless for the gauge though like you say haha. might try take a vid again this arvo of a drive, but yea probs not of much use anyway? The reason why an O2 sensor flickers back and forth so much on light and medium throttle is that it is running a closed-loop feedback system - the ECU is registering whether the exhaust is rich or lean and adjusting the mixture to strive to get it closer to the ideal level. However, on full throttle the ECU ignores the O2 sensor output and goes into open-loop - it just uses the fuel map for judging mixtures, which invariably leads to the engine running rich up top on WOT (hence the stable signal). This is a design feature though to prolong the life of the engine, as a lean mixture at WOT and high RPM is a very bad thing for an engine. Same goes for idle - it ignores the O2 sensor feedback and leans out the mixture to improve fuel economy during idle (no point pouring fuel in if you're not going anywhere). Thus, since a narrowband only sees 2 basic conditions (lean and rich, say 0-2V lean and 3-5V rich), you'll get constant signals at idle and WOT, and constant flickering between two levels when on part throttle. A wideband sensor will give a lot more accurate and detailed information In short, a narrow-band tells you if it is rich or lean, a wideband tells you exactly HOW rich or lean (and tells the ECU the same thing, if you have an aftermarket unit). AH ok gotcha that makes sense! (sorry, didnt see your repsonse as i was juggling writing my response and work for quite a while haha) Alrightey, well i guess it comes down to when i make the WBO2 kit happen and possibly replace the narrow band. Wouldve been nice to have the gauge working for my track day this weekend but ah well.

Cheers for that! I think i read somewhere that the "ox" pin is the one that goes to the o2 sensor? secondly, yea its quite possibly fried, and keeps dropping out. no consistent readings... might be worth trying a replacement from toyota. then again, might just go the wideband kit and not waste time. would a fried o2 sensor put out the AFR and make the car run lean or rich or not really affect it?

a wideband is *meant* to be 0-5v, with that said when was it changing voltage? just randomly or otherwise? newer narrowband o2 sensors do operate in a wider voltage range, and are heated for (somewhat) more accuracy, but regardless they are no-where near as accutate as a WBO2. as for the multimeter reading, it was consistent fluctuating, and just at idle. However the gauge itself when i went for a test drive, with no throttle sat needle at the bottom. Then with little to almost full throttle it was constantly and consistently bouncing back and forth between low lean to high rich (completely unrelated to throttle position, speed, load, anything...). but with fully opened throttle it would stay up in high rich. confusing as hell.. its like theres no signal at idle, pluses of signal with throttle, and constant signal with WOT. pretty useless for the gauge though like you say haha. might try take a vid again this arvo of a drive, but yea probs not of much use anyway?

just an observation, i put a multimeter to the o2 sensor last night to see what it was putting out, and found it bouncing between about 1.5-4.5v :S wideband range right? also, long shot i know, but since the gauge is now just sitting looking pretty, what are the chances do you reckon there is something else with similar signal strengths i could bridge it into for now just to make it do something haha e.g. i was thinking the MAF sensor? or would it more likely be everything else runs different voltages/signals? (couldnt get the multimeter in there myself)

Alrightey. Ill have a little think about the plan of attack. Celica is a 92 sx, thanks again for everything!

Nah won't be doing much to the 5s.. However the current o2 sensor wire is kinda fried (fell hanging down against the manifold) so could probs do with replacement at some point anyway haha. Still connects and all, just is in a bad way. If there's wb sensor that can replace the standard sensor and connect into the ecu, I reckon that'll be the way to go eventually. When I actually do it is another question. But, in preparation for when that happens, exactly what model wbo2 kit should I be getting (to ensure I get one to replace the current setup)? And secondly, where in the car do I find the ecu? Haven't managed to get a straight answer for that yet.. If you have a diagram of the ecu pinout as well I'll be 100% set Thanks a heap for all your help!

You are using the ****ty narrow band sensor the car comes with, this will *not* give you any sort of accurate idea of your AFR's You will need to purchase a wideband O2 kit if you wish to measure AFR's I would go with either a Innovate or Zeitronix kit (I actually own the Zeitronix one, its not bad) http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ http://www.zeitronix.com/ Ok so wow.. the prices arent quite what i expected.. i was told it was an easy and cheap install for these sensors.. sigh :S Do i need the whole kit? what if i got just the sensor, eg something like this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/INNOVATE-3737-Wideband-Wide-band-o2-Sensor-Bosch-LSU-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem230dab7338QQitemZ150553195320QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_534wt_962 or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AEM-Power-Replacement-Wideband-O2-Sensor-30-2001-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4cf40d5f70QQitemZ330512031600QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1588wt_804 could i put the sensor in and just connect the wire from my gauge into that? (assuming the sensor is standalone not needing any kind of power or anything from what I've seen on youtube with gauge demos...) with that, would i be able to replace the current sensor with this wideband one or would i need to keep the original one in place and wired up as well?

You are using the ****ty narrow band sensor the car comes with, this will *not* give you any sort of accurate idea of your AFR's You will need to purchase a wideband O2 kit if you wish to measure AFR's I would go with either a Innovate or Zeitronix kit (I actually own the Zeitronix one, its not bad) http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ http://www.zeitronix.com/ Ahkk fantastic cheers! Ill get onto that and let you know how i go

Here is a vid of the gauge bouncing...