Myxalplyx

BTW Trentmeyer23, have you had a chance to run your turbo camry at the track for 1/4 mile? How does it run? Just curious!

Oh...guys I'm cool on my side. I've already had my ECU tuned twice (N/A) and I have my first beta supercharged tune for my car once it has been supercharged now. It may take a bit to get it right though. A friend of mine had his N/A Toyota Avalon's ECU done and he is happy with his result after seeing mine. And a few other's are following along. I've had good results with just an intake and exhaust on my RAV4. We share the engine (2GR-FE). Just was putting this out there as an option for those that may be interested. Not those that aren't. No barking here. Just passing information along. I've offered my opinions on intakes as well as exhausts on here as well.

Maybe I should've been more specific in my previous post. Was asking if any Aurion owners, that are looking to modifying their car for more power, have looked into possibly working with R9K. I am not asking those with TRD Aurions or those that are already happy with the power as it was delivered or those without funds to do any modifications. Hope that helps!

Has anyone here considered trying R9K Tuned out? I've had some good success with him so far. I actually have an ECU tuned for a supercharger that I am having installed. We will be going back and forth until everything is tweaked but I'm sure it'll be definitely better than stock. Just curious if anyone has considered or are going this route as well. Pretty quiet here.

Hello all, I need your help with some info. Those of you that have the TRD Supercharged Aurions, can you please tell me two things? ... 1) What are your air/fuel ratios above 5000rpm to redline? and 2) What is your ignition advance from 5000rpm to redline? Any help with this information would be very helpful. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for posting the above information TRDnz13. The tuner I'm working with stated it is reflash-able. So...I just need to get my hands on a used TRD ECU. Long story but.....It's more to it then what I'm stating here but I am looking to get some information off of the TRD ECU to implement on my RAV4's ECU. It will be being supercharged. So anyone that has or has access to a used TRD ECU, I am very interested. Thanks in advance. BTW: The tuner that I have been working with is called 'R9K Tuning' from Puerto Rico. I am in the U.S.

Also, can anyone possibly post a picture of their ECU? So it has the part number and other information on the metal plate. I'm working with a tuner who is asking me if I have that information. Thanks in advance.

I purchased an HKS supercharger kit for the 2GR-FE from Monkeywrench Racing. It just arrived today. Here is their website for more details ~~~> https://monkeywrenchracing.com/product/hks-supercharger-kit-2gr-fe-centrifugal-rotrex/

Anyone have a used TRD Aurion ECU they are willing to part with?

No links? I am actually trying to find a 'junkyard' that may have this. Do Australia have junkyards? Been quietly looking for this off and on, on this site.

Sorry if I was a little confusing. Keep the maf sensor diameter 'exactly' the same as the stock maf sensor housing. I am only speaking about opening up the piping leading up to the maf sensor itself, not the maf sensor. Like you stated, you never want to change the diameter of the maf sensor housing unless you have the ability to change/tune the ecu to measure the airflow properly coming through the maf sensor.

BTW: If there any doubt still that you are making horsepower, remember I race my RAV4 at the track a LOT and am constantly testing little things. I still only have an intake, exhaust, lightweight custom pulley and lighter wheels. My best run was before the tracks closed late in November. I ran a 13.66, 13.68 and a 13.75. Every little bit counts. Your intake works!

Congrats on the intake. It looks great! If you have an aftermarket exhaust or at least the muffler has been changed out, you have gained some horsepower/torque. Although I'm across the pond from you (United States) and have a totally different vehicle than you (2010 Toyota RAV4), we have the same engine. I dyno tested a 3" intake that looks exactly the way you have (But it was an SRI at that moment before I converted it over to a CAI) and I made good horsepower and torque. Weapon R Intake Dyno (With S&B air filter) Here is what I I said from that link ~~~> "The WeaponR air filter made 209.87whp@6000rpm vs the S&B air filter's 216.54whp@6000rpm. That is a 6.67whp difference by JUST changing out the WeaponR air filter. Cool! Wanna see something even more cool? Let's take a look a tad lower in the RPM range and compare. Let's say....4800rpm. At 4800rpm, the WeaponR air filter made 178.02whp vs the S&B air filter's 191.40whp. That is a whopping 13.38whp difference. Oh..and I just like to say 'whopping'. Ok...for the torque graph. At 6000rpm, the WeaponR air filter made 183.49lb-ft of torque vs the S&B air filter's 189.55lb-ft of torque. A difference of 6.06lb-ft of torque just by changing the WeaponR air filter to an S&B one. Not bad! At 4800rpm, the WeaponR air filter made 194.75lb-ft of torque vs the S&B air filter's 209.44lb-ft of torque. A difference of 14.65lb-ft of torque. Nice!" It's important to note that these gains took place AFTER I changed the Weapon R air filter out on the dyno. The Weapon R intake vs my stock intake had exactly the same results except the intake was much louder. So if you have a good air filter, you probably have gains similar to what I have. I didn't just test on the dyno but the dragstrip as well. The CAI is good for a good 3-4/10ths off the 1/4 mile. I'm not sure how it will perform with a stock exhaust. I had my exhaust done first, shaved a few 10th's off, then did the intake and shaved off another 3-4/10ths. I just went outside tonight and took a pic for this post. Here is what my intake looks like ---> Pretty much exactly the same as your right? There is one slight difference though that I'm suggesting you go with for a tad bit more horsepower. Expand your intake at each of your coupling by .5". What I mean is....go from 3" to 3.5". Then from 3.5" to 4" to your cold air filter. I tested this setup out on the dragstrip, changing the intake twice. Here is all the details in this thread --> Intake Diameter Observation I apologize the links to all the pics I took are not working at Imageshack. Imageshack sucks! I'm glad you tested to see just how cool your air is. I had some doubters but another fella did the same intake I had (His was all 3" though) and he tested the intake air temp. The intake air temperature was exactly the same temperature as the outside air. I tested afterwards and got the same results. Here is my air filter location at the foglight. It's not pretty but it's all for function If you remove your foglight (or foglight cover) you'll have exactly the same intake air temperature as outside while cruising, despite the hot coolant going through your throttle body. I know I seem like I am rambling but I always have a lot to say. I'm just happy to see your setup. Trust me....It works. I still have all the dyno information on my computer (Stupid links don't show pics anymore from the site). Happy Modding!

Yes! While the car is moving, you will gain some power. Problem is, it will suck in hot engine bay air while the car is idle or sitting at low speeds. It is important to route that tubing down into the bumper/fender area and place the filter there. Then the car will be a cold air intake and you'd gain horsepower/torque throughout the whole rpm range. Or you can ditch the filter that come with it, attach a filter like the PRM filter and run piping/tubing from that down to the fender/bumper area. Same concept! You want to be pulling in cold/ambient air temps only, all the time. You will gain horsepower.

**Update 11/2/15** I updated the first post with NST pulley pics and weight information.