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Noodle Boy

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Everything posted by Noodle Boy

  1. I've checked recently and found the major retailers listing the PS4 and PS5 in 215/55/17 for c. $255 a tyre. The Primacy 4 are priced thereabouts as well. Those prices are dear compared to the c.$200 a tyre I paid in mid 2019 for Primacy 4 when they first launched.
  2. I know Costco fuel is sourced from Mobil, similar to how Metro stations source their fuel from Mobil. However, having used premium unleaded from Metro, I find it to not last as long as the Mobil premium bought at 7-Eleven. I'm not sure how Costco fuel goes in comparison.
  3. Hi. There's no need to open a new thread to post these photos or vids. Additionally, the extension doesn't work, at least for me.
  4. Seems too good to be true, to be honest. Seems very unlikely that the previous owner would leave behind such an car, unless the house was re-possessed by the mortgagor and the owner never got the chance to retrieve the car for whatever reason. Do you have the keys to it? It'll be difficult to sell or transfer the ownership without the documents being completed by its current owner.
  5. I have to agree on this one. Having owned an Aurion for this long, I've come to appreciate the many amenities on the car that was not offered in the Falcon and Commodore until later on, if at all before production ended on the locally produced models of each. The push start button, for example, was finally offered in the VF Commodore in 2013 and not on the Falcon and G6/E variants ever (the system in the FPV models aren't true keyless start systems), when the Aurion 40 series had it in late 2006, borrowed from Lexus. It was standard on the facelifted 50 series AT-X for crying out loud. Electronically adjustable front seats were still not available on the top of the line FG X G6E, if I remember correctly. Yet these competing models were priced around the same as the Aurion when brand new, similar spec for spec.
  6. I can climb up to 14lt/100km if in heavy stop-start traffic and if I'm maintaining a bit more of a lead foot throughout and that's also down here in Melb. The official consumption rating for the 40 series was around 14lt/100km for city driving if I remember.
  7. Toyota Australia didn't install electronic folding side mirrors for the 40 series, unfortunately, even for the higher specs. They didn't do it for both the pre and post-facelift models. It's sad to think that the lesser models such as the 152 series Corolla of the same era came with electronic folding side mirrors from Japan.
  8. It's typical across most cars. The floater which measures the fuel level in the tank only floats up the tank to a certain level, then you have more fuel which sits up the pipe closer to the filler hole, which would trickle down slowly as you drive before it finally reaches the floater to allow it to gradually move down the tank.
  9. You'll be surprised to find that certain tyres make the ride jolty or conversely floaty, depending on the sidewall structure. 41PSI is a bit high, don't you think? Reduce it to 36PSI and see how you go.
  10. Which engine did you have in the Commodore? Older 3.8, late 3.6 or 3.0 SIDI? I normally average around 13lt/100km if driving strictly short trips in the suburban area, down to around 11lt/100km if mixed fwy, urban roads on the weekend. Maybe try resetting the ECU and getting it to re-learn your driving style. The ECU may have adapted to the previous owner's style of driving (which may have been aggressive) and/ or the type of fuel they were using. Doesn't hurt to clean the MAF sensor on the air intake as well - a gummed up unit makes a big difference on performance and economy.
  11. Hence why I'd still rather an Accord Euro over a Hyundai Sonata, despite Honda no longer making that model anymore. Our one is a CL9 from 2003 and the interior was well laid out and stylish for the era.
  12. At 1:49, am I the only one cringing to see it's an engine bay housing a 2GR-FE?🤢
  13. The fluid may have never been topped up during its life thus far, given it is not at or below the low level. Blaming the lack of attention on the mechanics who serviced the car is unfair, particularly the fluid is still in normal range. You cannot simply believe the fluid to all the sudden fall to that level after only your two months of ownership, given you have stated that you never checked it upon purchase. I have to be honest, the level is not below the low mark and should not be concern, especially if it gone down to that level after the 12 years the car has been on the road.
  14. You have found that it's low, assuming by looking at the bottle. In that case, twist the cap off and pour Dexron III or genuine Toyota PS fluid into that same bottle until it reaches the 'cold' full mark if the engine is cold. As member above has suggested, if the fluid is running below the low mark, ascertain the cause of it. Rarely does that fluid run really low unless the car was really high ks and the fluid burns off over time or there's a leak in the system.
  15. Hi mate and welcome to the forum. You mentioned LPG, therefore if the car is cranked over using LPG rather than petrol, depending on the whole LPG system you can expect a few seconds at least for the fuel system to prime and the engine to start. I remember the late model Falcons running on factory liquid LPG systems to require a few seconds for the fuel system to prime after the key is turned. It may very well be normal for the system installed in your car. On another note, how does the engine operate when warmed up? Does it hesitate at all? Try starting on petrol a few times and see if the issue persists. As for the fumes being smelt within the cabin, I suspect the opening/ flaps on either side of the rear bumper which helps reduce the air pressure between the bumper bar and the carpet trim to have failed over time. The flaps are probably opening too much these days, allow more fumes than normally tolerated to enter the cabin. I would look into that before investigating other possible leakage points. One other thing I can think of is potentially the engine is running too rich on LPG, causing those fumes to be excessively created. Maybe a major service and tune up is required. All the best.
  16. The term 'best' is subjective. 98RON will vary from brand to brand, therefore one's perception on 98RON will differ. This topic has been addressed multiple times, therefore a new thread is not necessary. Best fuel for Aurion? - Aurion / TRD Aurion Club - Toyota Owners Club - Australia Best Fuel for Aurion's - Aurion / TRD Aurion Club - Toyota Owners Club - Australia Different fuels for Aurion... What do you use ? - Aurion / TRD Aurion Club - Toyota Owners Club - Australia Some of those earlier threads are somewhat redundant now that the fuels have been re-blended by the brands. The generic perception is these 2GR engines are developed to run on 91RON and will only benefit from using 95RON, whilst 98RON is an overkill due to it not being highly strung enough to see the benefits. In saying that, I notice better throttle response and fuel economy when running on either 95RON or 98RON versus 91RON. As Tony pointed out above, is the Sulphur content is of a concern with respect to pollution and carbon build up, then yes 98RON may be best as it's known to contain the least ppm relative to its lesser blends.
  17. Very good point Michael. The 2.0 is certainly fine in the Corolla and CH-R for their small stature. It's no weak engine with 127kw. I remember the previous gen RAV4 came with the 2.5 shared with the Camry, yet only the current gen Camry carried the 2.5 forward, albeit now producing a heap more power than before. All I can think of is potentially the newer emissions regulations pressuring Toyota that the current gen RAV4 come with the 2.0 because it was released after the current gen Camry did. It could even be a subtle marketing ploy to encourage potential buyers to consider the Hybrid models over the N/a offering, given the investment Toyota had to shell out on the new Hybrid platform.
  18. Just be careful when choosing the bootlid, given you have the facelifted model without the reversing camera. Any pre-facelift bootlid not made to fit the Presara will directly fit yours no problem. Some Sportivo ZR6 were fitted with the factory sat nav, therefore had the reverse camera as well. For the facelifted model, only the AT-X bootlid will be a direct replacement, as all specs from Sportivo SX6 upwards had the camera. It is not to say that the bootlids fitted with the camera will not work - it's just it you have a useless camera sitting there or you may want to hook up a compatible head unit after changing the boot lid. This example from a pre-facelift AT-X is going for $400: Toyota Aurion Bootlid GSV40 10/2006-08/2009 | eBay. Whilst this one from a pre-facelift ZR6 with the spoiler and camera is going for $990: TOYOTA AURION, Bootlid/Tailgate, BOOTLID, GSV40R, LIP SPOILER, W/ CAMERA TYPE, 10/06-03/12 (toylexrus.com.au) For the cost of replacement and the hassle of swapping over the key barrel and wiring, you might be better off repainting the whole lid.
  19. What the video failed to capture is the type of oil/s the engine circulated during its 18k km life. For all we know, the Ford dealer/s could've used cheap conventional oil in its services. 5,000mi is around 8,000km, which isn't an awfully long interval if quality fully synthetic oils are used. On the other hand, a few people in the comments did raise the point that the small displacement engine is over-stressed, which could contribute to oil shearing and sludge formation more readily. Correct me if I'm wrong, but is it the general belief that with forced inducted engines, oil is bound to break down more easily than N/A engines? My point is two perspectives should be taken on that video, however I do understand it does not hurt to change the oil earlier.
  20. What Toyota did bless us with is the 70 Series Camry with the updated version of the V6, surprisingly produced out of Japan. Sadly, the inclusion of the V6 is short-lived as Toyota has pulled the plug on it as off the facelifted version, due to the lack of demand. I did a browse out of boredom last night and found very few V6 variants, which are going for rather reasonable prices. Brand new, the V6 variants are sold at the dealers for the same, if not less than the RRP marked on the 1st and 2nd gen Aurions. Having sat in a V6 SL myself, I must say I am impressed with the furnishings inside and the exterior styling. It makes me wonder if one should even consider the Lexus GS350 which contains essentially the same powertrain at almost double the price. Having said that, I am happy to stick with my Aurion for now unless I am forced to replace it for whatever reason.
  21. Good on you, Tony, for making light of this. Don't forget that she was one of the main hosts in the series revamp after the trio departed from Top Gear in 2016. She is a role model to many girls and ladies around the world, being part of a male dominant sport. May she Rest in Peace.
  22. Any reason why you're not having the car serviced at a Toyota dealer under warranty? I'm sure the cost of the service as per the capped priced servicing program should deter you from taking the car anywhere else. If Motorserve are selling you the oil flush, they are looking to milk more money from you. For such a new car, and the fact it's only covered 6,000km and an oil change was completed not long ago, I'd say it's not necessary. Oil flushes don't necessarily hurt, as these modern engines have tighter tolerances and can benefit from a flush, only if service intervals are prolonged. Otherwise, I feel it's a waste of money in your case. Retrieve the car if you can and pop it into a Toyota dealer so they only charge you as per the capped price and not stooge you. The dealer's service advisor was obviously being honest with you and not calling for its necessity. Just my 2c.
  23. As another person mentioned back in 2014 further up the thread, it might even be the EVAP sensor, something like this. EVAP Evaporative Emissions Vacuum Solenoid Switching Valve for Camry Celica Rav4 | eBay I had the exact same lights pop up and the OBD scanner pointed the issue to that EVAP, only for me and a mate to find one of the two wires being snapped from the plug. I had to get a replacement plug to transplant onto the wires, given the breakage was too close to the old plug. Costed me around $2 from the wrecker and the plug is shared with other late model Toyotas (albeit different colours depending on Japan, Thai or Aussie built). The location is on the photo attached. Obviously an engine bay from a different car, but the location of the valve is thereabouts as circled.
  24. Anyone tried the razor blade and lubrication such as soapy water across the glass? Seems to take a lot of gunk off, therefore allowing the wipers to wipe cleaner and not squeak. Light water spots will come off, but seasoned water spots may still be a pain to remove via this method.
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