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Hiro last won the day on September 5

Hiro had the most liked content!

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About Hiro

  • Rank
    Token AE102 Defender
  • Birthday 02/03/1984

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  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model
    AE102, JZZ30
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
    New South Wales
  • How did you find us?
    Search Engine
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
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  • Location
    Newcastle, NSW

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39,264 profile views
  1. Best time to check oil level?

    True about the SL/SN difference, but if you drop down to the 5L bottles then the Penrite 5W30 Enviro+ is actually cheaper than the Nulon (HPR5 is a chunk more however)... Litre&variant2=5W-30&page=1 Sometimes I think there are too many oils on the market with too little obvious differences between them apart from price.
  2. Best time to check oil level?

    Nulon 5W30 Full Synthetic and Penrite 5W30 Full Synthetic are currently the exact same price at Superchear, $57.99 for 6L. You might be thinking of their 10Tenths racing oil. Litre&variant2=5W-30&page=1 And that 7L Commodore figure was only for the 3.0L and 3.6L V6. The V8s need even more (7.6L)
  3. Best time to check oil level?

    Be thankful you don't drive a Commodore then. Even the V6 models need 7+L per oil change, so you still need at least an extra litre bottle even if you buy 6L ones. Oh, and Penrite (another Australian company) also do a full synthetic 5W30 in 6L bottles too...
  4. Best time to check oil level?

    I must admit that a blown headgasket isn't what you'd expect from overfilling the oil (unless it was at the end of a cascade of failures). Blown crank seal yes, thrown a rod because the oil got aerated from being too close to the crank and killed a big-end bearing yes, but headgasket failures are usually down to either overheating or improper installation
  5. AE112R repair manual 1998

    I had a quick look and it seems that the Haynes/Gregorys books that cover the AE112 also do the ZZE122, which is never a good thing as you end up with more generic descriptions or things that aren't valid, especially when you've got two significantly different engines and two significantly different rear chassis/suspension designs. I've got the model prior (AE102) and the Gregorys for _that_ model is really good and specific (since it only covers one model series), if anything you might be better off getting that one as the engine, drivetrain and suspension/brakes are identical between the AE102 and AE112.

    18RCs had heaps of power-strangling emissions stuff (hence the -C, ie California Emissions spec).

    Got any photos? My guess would be that it's part of the emissions package, so either EGR or secondary air injection ("smog pump")
  8. Front Rotors/pads

    Unless the seller has updated the ad, the "huge" price difference is a whole $4, which doesn't even buy you a coffee these days. And the 0.2mm height difference (which is bugger-all) is probably due to the thickness of the anti-corrosion coating on the rotor hat. For all intents and purposes, the two rotors are the same size.
  9. Replacing Aurion wipers

    Aunger used to be very prevalent at Supercheap before they started going towards their own in-house brands like SCA and Calibre
  10. Surface Rust on some components under body

    Brake rotors are cast iron, they will form surface rust in a matter of hours (just look at your rotors after the car has been parked in the rain, the pad area will be covered in rust) but it won't ever penetrate deep enough to be an issue.
  11. Please help for new hilux SR dual cab problem.

    Don't assume that the 12L figure is 100% correct. Fuel gauges are inaccurate, distance-to-empty readouts are pessimistic, not everyone fills up their tank to the same level etc etc. Unless there is a fundamental difference in the tank design for some reason then you should still have an 80L tank, and how much of that you deem as usable (based off your interpretation of the fuel gauge and DtE) is up to you.
  12. Traction Contol Button force ATX

    The traction control can be switched off by pressing Up, Up, Down Down, Left, Right, Left, Right, B, A and then starting the engine. I kid. But yes there is a method for turning off the TCS in an Aurion, it's more convoluted than the Konami Code and you have to do it each time you start the car, but it is a well documented thing, take a look in the pinned Aurion FAQ thread and you'll find it
  13. Keeping my Avalon...keeping on

    They came with a factory defect though where the steering wheel is mounted on the wrong side of the car. Toyota refuse to fix it too.
  14. Keeping my Avalon...keeping on

    Avalon has the 1MZFE, not the 2GRFE. And the 2GR is far from bulletproof.
  15. Trace them as far as you can and see what they connect to.