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Hiro last won the day on February 8

Hiro had the most liked content!

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258 Brilliant Reputation

About Hiro

  • Rank
    Token AE102 Defender
  • Birthday 02/03/1984

Profile Information

  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model
    AE102, JZZ30
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
    New South Wales
  • How did you find us?
    Search Engine
  • Annual Mileage
    5001 to 10,000
  • Interests
    Classic Cars
    General Automotive
    Motorsport & Racing
    Car Restoration
    Car Modification
    Road Trips
    Food & Drink
    Computers & Electronics
    Arts & Crafts
    Sports & Leisure
    Health & Beauty
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Legacy Data

  • Location
    Newcastle, NSW

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  1. I've spoken to him a bit on Facebook recently, as far as I know he's still got the 86.
  2. Is it the kind where you put the remote fob in to the socket in the glovebox or the later one? Generally with remotes you only program one at a time - setting one shouldn't wipe the other out from the system (that generally only with aftermarket systems I have found)
  3. Being mid-engined I imagine it'd be a remote cable-shifter, so getting access to the top of the box to check linkages might be a bit hard (depending on where they are on the box). Quick check, does reverse still work?
  4. So far my experiences with eBay LED neowedge bulbs has not been positive, if any more blow in my dash I'll be trying to get OEM first
  5. Where is the leak inside the door? You'll always get water leaking down past the weatherstrip/bailey channel in to the door cavity as it would be impossible to seal and still allow the window to move up and down freely. The door cavity will have a plastic waterproofing sheet separating the outer skin area (window glass, outer door handle, lock mechanism) from the inner skin area (inner door handle, window winder/switches, speakers etc), and holes drilled in the bottom to allow the water to drain out (these can clog over time if your car gets dirty all the time or you regularly park under trees).
  6. 1) It depends on the life it has had. Treated well and serviced regularly, yes 120k is nothing for a Corolla, but if it has been neglected or thrashed for 120k it may not have much life left before major components need fixing. 2) I've found hatchbacks always sound boomy especially when sitting in the back seat, the boot acts as a big reverb chamber for both the exhaust and tyre noise. 3) Check to see if the tyres are worn, old or they are pumped up to ridiculously high pressures. Any FWD can spin the tyres if launched aggressively (especially with an open diff) but it shouldn't be all the time. 4) If you're having trouble getting in to reverse, shift in to first or second and then try going back in to reverse. No synchromesh on reverse means that if the dog teeth aren't perfectly aligned they'll struggle to engage, so shifting in to another gear will index the shafts slightly and improve alignment
  7. Correct, timing belts/chains are almost never exposed on stock-standard engines (some people do remove timing covers to show off adjustable cam-gears etc).
  8. And for all the cardigan-wearers out there, the ultimate in car-mod minutiae - upgraded windscreen washer jets. We all know that the 90s jet-type Toyota washers suck - two piddly streams of water concentrated nowhere near where the wiper blade starts, so you're guaranteed a couple of screechy dry sweeps with the blade before they actually start cleaning anything. Enter the 5th generation Camry to the rescue! Toyota switched to a resonance-chamber fan spray with these models, and the results are night and day. Not only that, but they clip straight in with no modification required (there's enough slack in the stock hoses and 90 degree fittings to compensate for the different barb orientation, I've got some 4mm hose offcuts if I ever want to tidy it up) Upgrade yours today!
  9. If you or the next owner isn't too concerned about fashion then you can fix it for even less than that, just buy a box of thumbtacks from Spotlight and go to town. To fix it properly you need to remove the headlining completely from the car (which'll involve removing A/B/C-pillar trims, dome light, grab handles, sunvisors etc, the hopefully squeezing it out a door without bending the backing, otherwise you might need to remove the front seats or even the windscreen - don't laugh, it HAS to happen on some cars), then remove the cloth and get the backing board sanded smooth to remove the old foam, then applying spray adhesive and a new piece of foam-backed cloth. It happens on pretty much every car eventually, as has been said it is a combination of heat/time/UV degrading the glue and foam holding the cloth to the board, the foam then disintegrates in to the classic sticky "orange snow".
  10. The 111 seats don't look quite as sporty as the 101 seats but that's mainly due to the headrest shape and the fact that it's a one-piece base rather than a 3-piece - they're just as good (if not better) in support (although lacking lumbar adjust), and are a tonne lighter to boot
  11. A two-part update, separated by ~3 weeks Part 1: My recently-installed fog lights decided to quit working just before Christmas (to be fair we don't have fog in summer anyway but I just like using them, even if it's illegal), figured that either the switch had gone bad (it was buzzing instead of switching them off even when they were working) or the globes had blown (could well be the originals from the 90s still in there). Had some time yesterday to investigate (the benefits of work shutting down over the break, 3-week holiday yay :D even if I had to burn 7 days of annual leave to get it), started with the switch and the relay but they all seemed fine, so figured the globes had gone - jacked up the front of the car to change them (and find out what size they are so I could get some cool yellow fog-breakers), only to find the shared ground wire for them had detached its solder and broken free Since it wasn't my solder job (and I have no idea whether I still have a soldering iron or where it might be), I drove over to my mate's house (the one who did the wiring) for a quick patch job. 15 minutes later and they were all fixed, plus I switched switches with him as his never buzzed (figure it's a tiny short in a contact inside). Then figured we'd swap over my old AE101 Levin seats for his spare AE111 Levin ones as my driver's side one had collapsed significantly and the bolster foam on the right thigh area had worn through to the rebar. The drive home was soooooo much more comfortable, even if I was sitting a little bit higher than normal and no longer had lumbar adjustment. Part 2: My birthday-present-to-myself arrived a little early, and even though it was stinking hot on Saturday (and I ended up with a bull-ant sting to the face because he crawled on to my sweat towel) I couldn't be bothered waiting for cooler weather to arrive. Now that I've got a USB input on my headunit (and I haven't needed cassettes since 2004) there wasn't much need for the double-din cubbyhole any more, and since I love collecting the JDM options it was a no-brainer Enter the Toyota Original Accessory Multi-Box and For Your Life Scene spring-loaded drawer (got to love Japlish...) Next weekend will hopefully be exhaust-fitting time and maybe a trial-fit of the 275mm SS twinpot brakes now that my ST204 pad carriers have arrived
  12. MWR website says that it's 1/4" longer than stock
  13. If you've got cash then buy stuff that has unlimited shelf-life but you're guaranteed to need in the future - things like oil and air filters, spark plugs, windscreen wiper blades etc etc.
  14. I've changed the topic to reference the fact that we're talking about a power steering hose, most people will think of the radiator when you say "upper hose"