Hiro

Aisan (not to be confused with Aisin by the way) has been an OEM supplier for Toyota carburetor, throttle-body and fuel-injection components since the '60s. Unlike Denso and Aisin though, they're not actually part of the Toyota Group (but Toyota does have a financial interest in them)

One of the only things working against (or for, depending on your viewpoint) the ST204 Celica is that a bunch of them were probably crushed as a result of not being able to source replacement airbags during the Takata recall (a similar fate befell the Starlet). I don't think all models had that particular airbag though so it probably disproportionally affected certain trim-levels too. This might artificially inflate the rarity of what was generally seen as a nondescript uninspiring 90s hair-dresser "sports car" that still sold reasonably well.

That one is in no way indicative (GT4 engine conversion, and is over-priced for a genuine 1-of-77 Aus delivered GT4 anyway, let alone a conversion), and there are a few ST204s up at the moment, varying from reasonably priced (5-10k) to ridiculous. At the end of the day, a FWD Celica just isn't that "special" a car, especially with an auto.

Swap the driver's and passenger side globes, see if the problem travels (that will 100% confirm whether it is the bulb itself or not). Are they a combined dual-filament globe (probably H4) or separate globes for high and low? With the combined bulbs you can get some funny occurrences, I had a scenario on my old AE102 where the brake light would come on when I press the pedal, the tail-light would come on when I turned the headlights on, but if I did _both_ then nothing happened (turned out one of the filaments had broken and was shorting out on the other

The irony of what appears to be a spambot replying to an 18-year-old post with a link to "Sell any car fast"....

You'd most likely need some kind of RFID-blocker (either a box to put everything in, or a pouch that you put the keys inside and then inside a normal lock box), can't imagine these would be too hard to find given how paranoid people are these days.

There's no such thing as a Rav4 GR. There is a GR Sport, but like most of those that is just a bodykit/trim/sticker package, maybe with better wheels and slightly firmer suspension.

Depends on your definition, there was an Atara SL in the XV50 series that was built in Australia (XV50 so same generation as the RZ), the Atara name was dropped when they moved to the Jap-sourced XV70 series in late 2017.

There are two handbrake shoe pairs in total, one for each rear wheel

Drive-shaft oil leak (if coming from the diff oil seal area) would be transmission fluid, not engine oil. ATF and PS fluid are very similar (and some cars will run ATF in the power steering system anyway). If the "driveshaft leak" is from a CV/tripod joint then it would be grease, very different to both engine oil and PS/ATF.

For the oil filter just go with a normal Ryco one, never had a problem with them on Toyotas and they're readily available at Supercheap etc.

Wheels/tyres can make a big difference too, the RZs run 18s whereas the SLs are only 17s (which for the same overall diameter means more tyre sidewall for a softer ride).

I'm talking about replacing the actual guts of the motor, you'd re-use the wagon housing to retain the mounting. Both housings may actually be the same anyway, with the only difference being the shape of the "grommet" to suit the angle/curve of the rear quarter panel

Definitely doesn't hurt, but be prepared to get covered in grease. Also make sure that you take notes as to how it all goes together, as well as being careful so that the mast cord doesn't go flying (it gets coiled up around the spindle when the antenna is retracted, so much like a whipper snipper or mower starter cord it tends to "release" itself very easily once you remove the housing. Had to do this on the ex's SXV20 antenna (hers had stripped some of the teeth so you could "assist" the mast up and down through the stripped bits but otherwise it would just sit there and grind away non-stop until it timed out. Potentially, if the motor is dead but everything else is fine you might be able to swap in the motor from a sedan one and keep the wagon housing, as sedans are much more common.

Does the motor make any noise when you turn the radio on? Often it is the plastic "cable" inside the antenna mast which breaks rather than the motor itself (so you get a crunching/whirring noise but no movement), in which case you can buy just a new mast and replace that rather than a whole new motor. Finding a new one might be hard though as I'm pretty sure the wagon one is unique, plus online catalogues etc often don't list them due to the wagon not being sold in the US and Europe, plus a lot of them overseas (both sedan and wagon) had aerials integrated in to the rear windows rather than the older-style telescoping mast.

Close, this thread was made 17 years ago, and the person you've replied to hasn't visited the forums since 2012 (12 years ago)

FYI this is an Australian-based forum and we never got the first-generation Fortuner. Not saying that someone mightn't have one, but your odds probably aren't very good

JBL reference will be for the premium audio package that the US got I believe, it ran a separate amp etc so the speaker connections are different than standard.,

If you're using the standard scissor jack on the correct spot on the sill pinch-weld (between the two notches, like you said) then there's no danger of damaging the car. I've had to jack up cars with a scissor jack almost until the jack has locked out just to get the wheels off the ground (and it's important to know you can do this, in case you're stuck by the side of the road with a flat tyre and nothing else) Also, I assume the strut part numbers are actually RSA3115 and RSA3215, as RSA3225 appears to be for the next generation

Need to lift higher. What type of jack are you using, and whereabouts are you lifting from?

If you're not tracking it, then a baffled sump isn't needed. Quite a few people have used the 1ZZ sump instead (which is baffled to a degree, but nowhere near as much as the Moroso one) but it may require a little fettling around the pickup tube to get it to fit properly (opinions/experience seems to vary in regards to this). A lot cheaper than the Moroso though

What sort of driving are you doing? Has it been lifted, or the tyres changed to more off-road focused ones? Carrying extra weight? Lots of things influence fuel consumption...

Rebuild it - new synchros, bearings, oil seals etc. Any fluid solution will be only temporary and just masks the problem. No real way of getting a "new" one, and almost guaranteed that any second-hand one you find will either have the same problem or will start displaying symptoms very quickly (it's a known weakness of the C-series boxes).

I bought a case of filters from LSI the other day, with eBay Plus discount it came down to ~$9.50 a filter (these were YZZE2 ones though so smaller/cheaper than the ones for Aurions etc)

'08 Corolla will be timing chain, not belt.