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LordBug last won the day on February 29 2016

LordBug had the most liked content!

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About LordBug

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    Advanced Member

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  • Toyota Model
    TRD Aurion 3500S Cherry Red
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
    Western Australia
  • Annual Mileage
    0 to 5000

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  1. But don't go for the ridiculously large diameter swaybar (what is it, 23mm?), 19mm is the sweet spot.
  2. You are the man! That'll definitely be the first thing I do when I get my sportivo back from the 'beaters. When I had the TRD the price on rotors was extortionate, so I like the sound of vastly more affordable parts :)
  3. I've gotta say, I prefer the real speed being under what the speedo reports. Even though I know it's in my head, it feels damn good to lock the cruise control on the north side of the speed limit. Silly, but makes my driving experience that little bit more enjoyable.
  4. I'm with the others on the don't change it scope of things. But I'll respect that's not your intention, so what about setting up a mister in front of the radiator?
  5. Gotta say, after writing my TRD off recently, I was left scratching my head as to what to look at going for with my payout. If I had found a g6e for the right price & kms I would've probably jumped on that as a kinda diagonal step upwards. Would've strongly considered a recent model Mazda 6 if the prices weren't still recent model prices. Did consider a BMW which was a similar size, model escapes me though. Happily though, I ended up with a Sportivo from the same year as the TRD. Only 77k on the clock, and with a number of luxury features that I didn't have in the TRD. I miss the extra poke of the supercharger, and the bucket seats, but otherwise absolutely love this car :)
  6. It's about $130ish for genuine mats from the dealers, that's for both front and rear footwells.
  7. A simple test you can do yourself is to place the car in park, but don't apply the footbrake. Jack up the rear of the car, and spin the wheels by hand. This should give you some basic feedback on the state of the brakes/bearings. A second test is to hold the wheels and see if you can give them a jiggle, first side to side and then up/down. Again, it's not guaranteed, but if you do feel a little bit of play then there's definitely a bearing issue. Also, did he supply invoices showing the bearing had actually been done, or did he simply tell you?
  8. The amount of engineering required to fit such a system in kind restricts it to a lotto dream, be horribly expensive to pull off. Be a lot easier and more affordable to fit in-wheel electric motors on the rears, then the largest amount of work would be fitting in a suitable battery system and running the necessary cabling.
  9. Some experience already on this forum: Subaru Upper Engine Cleaner just need to rustle matt36415 up to see what the long-term result was.
  10. I'd say that at least you don't have to maintain using 98 fuel, buuuut I've taught myself to just look at the price of it and shrug. I need fuel to go places, chasing the cheapest is not worth the time and travel to me, and if I really need to start making savings I've got many, many other areas that I could cut down expenditure on first. And whilst our prices aren't as nice as they are on the East coast, and nowhere near as good as what America gets fuel for, I'm grateful that we don't pay the sort of prices that I saw in Europe last year.
  11. Wow, that thread is one heck of an interesting read! That Gouky fellow is a true champion! :D
  12. Realistically, you don't need to change the rears, as the majority of braking force is applied at the front. My personal suggestion would be to keep your current rear setup, just paint them red to match the TRD fronts, and sell the calipers that you picked up.
  13. All I can say is if you've got a set that have taken you 70kkm+, you'd be mad to change to a different make. All I can say is that I have had a very bitter experience with Maxxis, didn't even get 20kkm out of the bloody things :(
  14. It's just the power of the engine getting passed to the wheels a lot faster than the traction control can kick in. Nothing to be surprised about. The general response of the transmission can also be from what it's "learned" to do based on your driving style, apparently it's made to accommodate the driver. You can get the learning reset at a dealership, alternatively I haven't tried it myself but you could see if draining the power resets it too (disconnect battery,hold foot on brake to get the lights to drain any remaining charge from the system). Now, regarding the original problem, I've started to have a similar thing pop up in mine. Only happened a handful of times, but pretty much come up to a roundabout, almost stopping whilst checking for traffic from the right, then release brake and go to accelerate and feel a crazy big thwack from the gearbox, not sure how to describe it, kinda like it got stuck changing between gears and when it finally moved there was a large amount of tension that was released in an instant, kinda like tightening up a spring then letting it go. Hell worrying, but doesn't feel like there's been any issue to the general operation of the gearbox.
  15. All in all fairly straight-forwards to do? I really need to poke around in mine, as I've got one of the dreaded one-way-only park brakes (won't let the car roll forwards, but backwards has full freedom), would be nice if a cleanup/adjustment could change that. Either way, cheers for your rundown & report :)