LordBug

It's been a while since I replaced my headunit, but from memory the disc slot is behind the screen, so when you choose to eject/insert the screen folds down and reveals the secretive slot 🙂 Removal steps, youtube helped me out at the time, this is one of the videos I leaned on heavily to guide me through the process:

This thread will be relevant to your interests;

I don't remember if it's been brought up, but have you thought about sending an oil sample to be analysed Ash?

Dumb question, but have you tried giving the sensors a wipe? I had something similar once, one sensor was activating for no reason, after a rub with a cloth it came good again. I couldn't see anything at all on it at the time, but there must've been something on surface causing this gremlin.

I still clearly remember my mate who works for Toyota telling me, after he did some work on my previous TRD ronron, that you want to drive it hard after a tranny reset to get the base learning more peppy. I'll admit, I didn't really ask any further about whether that becomes the low-level default or if over time it changes to whatever your driving style is like, but I know that when I set myself a challenge of going absolutely grandpa for a week or so to test fuel conservation, I didn't get any annoying shifting traits. I really hope you manage to get to the bottom of it, because I know I'd be crawling up the wall if I was getting that sort of flare 😞

Such a good guide that I had to make it into a PDF for posterity, provided you're fine with that 🙂 Aurion Transmission Flush.pdf

Ordered on the 30th of Aug, eta is between tomorrow and next week, so hopefully sooner than later. I do have some no-name filters I bought recently, I'm planning on getting a big cheap drum of oil from Repco and doing a bit of a flush before I use the genuine filters

Glad to see they appear genuine, I ordered a set of ten from the same seller after you'd linked to that deal 🙂

Just curious, why'd you opt for the 2.5" over the 3" in the end?

My personal tip is to use distilled water in the windscreen washer reservoir with no addatives, that'll eliminate any mineral deposits after giving the windscreen a quick clean. I'm definitely going to have to try the BKF treatment to some of the spots on the windscreen though, never would've thought of it so thanks for sharing! 😄

I love seeing the level of passion you've put into these oil changes, and keeping us updated on how it's going. I feel like I may have to have a go at the diesel flush on my next service 🙂 You're also living up to my personal mantra of "Nothing says success quite like excess!" 😄

Damn, I really dig those rims on the first & third shots! 2 & 4 look too much like he****s to me though, 1 & 3 are pretty sharp.

You got me curious about that moisture content meter. Thought I was going to fall down a rabbit hole, but thankfully it's more of a pothole, quite interesting to learn! https://media.supercheapauto.com.au/sca/images/articles/Repl_Brake_Fluid.pdf and http://www.mechanexpert.com/a-full-best-practise-guide-to-brake-fluid-testing/ Though a little part of me feels like I've robbed myself from buying another tool to add to the collection 😛

You sir are my saviour! I'll be making good use of Amayama in the future 🙂 And yep, that is the same as what's in the service manual.

Hi all, I'm going to be replacing the axle oil seals on my ronron, and I'm at a little bit of a loss. The manual for the U660E transmission names the two seals as "no.1" and "no.2" case seals, but no part numbers for them. I've managed to find the seal marked as no.1, but I'm having no joy with no.2 - it kind of looks like they're two different seals since installation uses a different SST depending on which one, but my google-fu is failing me and I can't find any clear proof of such a seal existing (or in some cases there are three or four different seals of differing dimensions). If anyone can shed any light on this particular mystery I will be forever in your debt Cheers,

That's some solid input, and now I'm kinda glad I haven't done it 🙂

Really curious Tony, why do you advise against painting them?

I've been meaning to getting around to doing mine, but I believe for a long-term fix, you'd want to; 1. clean them up with wet sandpaper 2. paint them with a 2 pack gloss clearcoat Not really the quickest fix, sandpapering the oxidisation off won't take long but waiting for the clearcoat to dry will take a bit, but the paper is dirt cheap, and the clearcoat shouldn't run you more than $30. Though if you end up with runs in the clearcoat, that'd require extra sanding and then polishing on top, so potential for the time to blow out a bit 😛

Might be a chance dixie has upgraded his phone in the three years since he had the issue 😉

Yeah, no negatives whatsoever towards daily driving

Good to know, I haven't been contacted so wasn't sure if I'd be covered by it, I'll get onto it now!

That noise is usually caused by a worn coupler, which is located in the snout. However, it's also possible that it's the needle bearings (also in the snout) that are a bit worn.

7zip is your best option; https://www.7-zip.org/download.html

Could be the tensioner pulley. Maybe take the belt off and give that pulley a wriggle and turn it a bit by hand, if there's play then it definitely needs to be replaced. Hopefully it's that and not a different bearing.

I found the same issue with my '07 ZR6, asked about it here and someone suggested it was a problem with the boot seal. I haven't checked since I gave said seal a bit of nudging, but I really hoped that did the trick. But out of sheer curiosity, does yours happen to also have a sunroof?