OldMech

I think you will have a bit of trouble finding it. You won't see it itself. Just the back of its mounting small panel as part of the cabin front firewall. Anything under the dashboard is difficult. That's why I gave away servicing car radios in my service business.. NOTE. We are talking of the fan speed low. If it is too cold they advise to open the heater control lever a bit. I think that is crazy but it's all you can do. Good luck

Good news that you chased them up. Surprisingly unsophisticated. But effective - as long as they last. Saves a special winding in the motor. I had a spare sitting on my kitchen windowsill for a coupe of years waiting for it to be needed. The Camry was stolen before I got to use it! Interesting that it's used by other brands. Probabaly pretty common. Good luck and enjoy the result after the fitting job. Cheers. Laurie,Edward ex RAAF Aircraft Radtech and Elect Tech. Join me on Facebook...🙂

Hi. The air/con compressor will not run unless the fan is running. It used to be that on the low setting the fan power is lowered by a simple coil of resistance wire in series with the motor circuit on that setting. A very crude but effective set-up is through that coil. For 'ventilation', it is on a small 'plate' mounted behind, inside, the drivers compartment fire-wall. Pretty hard to find and get to to remove it. The coil burns out and has to be replaced. Pretty much like the old-fashioned electric radiator element.. One Toyota gent said to find it you have to trace that particular wire from the fan speed switch. Crude, yes all the way..Good luck.

Wow!. Good luck. Hope you get some rain or a shower.!? :-(

In the old days the garages liked to have a very small apprentice. He would get shut into the boot with a torch and the car would get hosed on. He would see where the water was coming through!! I was almost working for an English gent years ago who was going to start importing an electronic leak detector. I'm sure there are a lot of them here now. Put the turned on transmitter in the boot and close it. With the 'detector' you walk around the boot lid and it would pick up where the signal was strongest. A sound device would also do similar. It is a very difficult problem to fix otherwise. Good luck. Find someone very small etc ...

God news and good luck wishes. Don't let them short with one another.

There is a big risk in 'playing around' with the wiring to the speaker - any speaker. It is very easy to blow the particular side's output transistor in the unit - radio or amplifier. In fact it could be already 'gone'. It is a very tricky job and better handled by a professional auto radio technician.

I would say it's time to take it to a professional automatic transmission mechanic. There is nothing more you can do. Good luck Laurie.

I'd wait until the brake fluid leak job is done and see the result. Caster bushes would surely be a big job, alignment involved, but really may be the 'clunking' source.

Not really a silly question but are you 100% sure the noise is coming from the back? It sounds as though there is a traction aspect to the occurence.- and we have a front wheel drive. No traction change to the rear mechanism.

Back to the mech who did the cylinder replacement job.

Going well David. Re the rarity of the injectors breaking down. All electrical/mechanical items anywhere are prone to failure under heat and working conditions. I shudder when I hear about the cleverness of developments in the auto field, particularly as with various 'clever' electronically controlled driving systms. viz: the tragic failure of spacecraft electro mechanical systems. Cars driving on freeways suddenly stoppping or out of control engine or braking systems. Our reasonably conventional Camrys are deserving of trust. Good luck with the rest of your projected work there. I like soft shockers. Some I've struck are too hard - for my comfort and pleasurable driving. Best wishes for happy W.A. driving. I love it. Laurie.

Hi. You've done well in the process of elimination. I'd keep at it as I love the cars and you've spent so much. My next step would be to replace the distributor cap. It sounds like ignition trouble but .. ?? I wonder if the cheap and simple way is just to increase the idling speed. I'm Old School. See if the vibration is that it's just on the verge of 'dying' because of low idling speed combined with a slightly age-tired engine.. K.I.S.S. (Meaning of course: Keep It Simple Stupid.) ;) But you are not there. If it was in Melbourne I'd love to look at it. (I like Adelaide very much. More than Melbourne nowadays.) Laurie Edward on Facebook.

All agreed Dave.

Jim, and any others interested. It is a 'Fuel Pump operation check' I was referring to but which serves the the purpose of pushing some juice up the fuel line. But first one needs the Haynes Repair Manual for your vehicle to follow my directions. In that manual, mine anyway, page 4A-4 down the bottom left, a little paragraph heading: 'Fuel Pump operation check'. You have to locate a particular plug and socket on the firewall passenger side and its pin numbers in a diagram on the Manual's paticular page. It does seem to be year specific as Dave has posted in his latest entry. Worth looking for anyway... Going well Dave. Wave to Rotto for me. I see some stupidity by tourists on our Quokkas!! We're a smart lot nowadays! Cheers. Laurie.