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marks_2_sparks

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marks_2_sparks last won the day on July 23 2022

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  • Toyota Model
    AE92
  • Toyota Year
    1991
  • Location
    Victoria

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  • First Name
    Mark

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  1. Thanks for the correct info. It was off the top of my head except the part number and I can hardly remember what I ate for breakfast
  2. It's only been what, two years? It can be hard to find time to spend time working on a project car and still having time to do things like update a post. In the past couple of years I have been fighting a suspected head gasket issue on and off. It finally got to the point of where I dusted off the spare head, assembled the whole thing and put it in with new head studs. the old head was the original with 400,000ks on it and had been reused a few times so it was becoming a bit higher compression than ideal. It takes a long time to lap 20 valves and set all clearances especially when you have to custom grind shims to suit. a diamond knife block works great on the hardened steel shims. I got it all changed over with no issues and drove it around on the weekend then on the way home from work on the Monday lost all compression in one cylinder while on boost. sounds very familiar? well I dug down and investigated myself and discovered somehow the exhaust valve on cylinder 4 had lost all clearance and was being held open. I stripped the cams out and checked the shims and springs only to find nothing amiss. Tested clearances again and everything was good. so back together and keep driving, who knows what happened. I have been working on upgrading the brakes and managed to mix and match a combination that works well AE111 twin piston calipers ZZE122 275mm rotors (DBA 759S) ST215 caliper brackets DB1209 pads (DBA1209SS) or Winmax 224 if you want race spec pads you do need to remove the stock heat shield (mine are ae111) and make some spacers to push the rotors out from the hub about 2mm however they are much more substantial than the stock brakes. Ae111 calipers with machined down rotors zre122 rotors (the bigger option ones) and st185 calipers for test fit, they do work and retain the db308 pads, the st215 caliper bracket allows straight bolt in of the ae111 calipers, the st215 pistons would also bolt in. For your sanity, don't lose these little buggers. it took 3 months to get new ones out of Lithuania of all places. Out of stock, discontinued, wont sell separate so forth and so on anywhere else I tried I made these spacers out of 0.5mm alloy sheet, quick and easy with basic power tools and tin snips And for so long I thought it was my drive shafts binding or my LSD playing up when I was pushing it hard. perhaps I should have taken an extra 2mm off the rotors? This is the current arrangement of the garage, I have a new daily driver and will be putting club plates on the corolla. time for him to enjoy the easy life of a weekend driver out for a bit of fun. That's all for now. I have been working on other little bits but it's mostly maintenance. perhaps the next update will be in less than 2 years?
  3. I saw a few ebay listings for rebuilt ones or swap a motor for a rebuilt one. Might be a go if the budget fits.
  4. Mostly the townace and hilux. Check Wikipedia for other applications, that's all I'm doing "Toyota 3y engine". There's a few low emission versions but not likely to be here in Australia.
  5. The townace van of same age range also had the y series engine. You could also look for a 3y which is the 2L version and should be a straight swap, I have not done much with these motors but if the other Toyota motors around that age are anything to go by a 3y would be a small bump in power and a straight swap
  6. Umm... Judging by the hex shape around the base of the rubber boot I can't help but to think it is from the Inside of your spark plug socket there to help you get the spark plug out of the hole.
  7. Ok because you asked I do actually have enough for an update. The Mighty corolla is still running fine. I did have a few nervous moments where I was convinced the head gasket was still playing up. Turns out it was a combination of the old radiator not able to keep up with hot weather and Melbourne traffic. I was getting temperatures over 110deg and climbing with the radiator fans running and once it cooled down at home the top tank would be empty. Well eventually I remembered I had this problem 10 years ago and the empty radiator was actually a split hose inside the overflow bottle. It could push water out but not suck it back in. So having fixed that I was finally happy that the motor is going to keep on living provided I could stop it over heating on anything over a 30deg day. So I tried adding more fans, ducting the air flow, adding water wetter (good stuff) but in the end I had to find a better radiator. I tried to purchase several different ones online but as it turns out all the listings on E bay regardless of seller or price ($120-$1,000) was actually the same radiator and there was only one in Australia which was sitting damaged in a warehouse. So I talked to the PWR guys who I got my water to air unit off and we designed a nice upgrade unit which is dual core and double pass, as well as being as thick as possible. Well it works a treat as the engine doesn't overheat even on a 45deg day in traffic (I suffered horribly but the car was fine) The funky pipe layout is needed for the double pass but does fit if you get rid of the overflow and are running a 20v head. I also gave the interior a good scrub and clean which is still looking good even after years of daily driving So once we are allowed out again I will be taking it on a bit of a road trip and finally sorting out the boost control. I have been tolerating boost spike and it tapering off for years because I never had enough traction for it to matter. Whats the point if you are just spinning the wheels to red line in third gear? But now that I have got traction control behaving and the LSD is playing ball with the Motul gear oil It is bugging me that I can't hold a solid 20psi. I also happened across a whiteline rear sway bar that will be going into to it just to help keep the rear settled on the road. It is pretty good as it is, and I do recall the factory sway bar is already an odd size as I had trouble finding bushings but we will see how it goes. The only other stuff I have done in the last year is give it a good claybar clean and polish which was in preparation for Sakura picnic which never happened, Hopefully next year.
  8. I don't think the fuses will have minded too much with bit of water. See if they are blown which would suggest problems with the immobiliser. Is the immobiliser still trying to work out is there nothing when you try to use it? You could try bypassing it. That would involve following the wires from the immobiliser to the car wiring loom and joining the wires which have been cut and joined into the immobiliser wiring back together. Usually around the ignition barrel wiring. As for the rest of the electrics, you might have to leave it in the sun with the windows down to let it dry out. I have never pulled apart the fuse box before so don't know what could go wrong in it from water.
  9. The clunk might have just been it firing once. Check for fuel and spark. If both are good then we can look at what next.
  10. Ok.... Well first question, have you changed anything? What is different from last time it ran? It might be quickest to go back over what you have done and see if you made a mistake or disturbed something. Who knows how the wires have been joined. Second. What is it missing? Given you are playing with wiring it is probably electrical so let's check spark and fuel. Take the coil lead off the dizzy, position it so it's about 10-20mm away from a metal engine part then crank and check for a spark. Check the fuel pump is working by turning the key to ignition and opening the flap on the air flow meter. The relay next to the ecu should click and you should hear the pump run as well. As for the wiper, it could be unrelated. There is a control module in the tail gate which can play up if it gets wet which will keep it running. Let me know how you get on. If it ends up complicated you might need to get local help as problem solving without being able to stand in front of it to run tests really limits how much I can help.
  11. No need to remove engine to remove wiring. It can be a bit difficult to get to some sensors and plugs on the engine but definitely possible.
  12. Considering your wiring harness is the 20v one I would put it where it fits as it will not be quite the same. Normally the ecu sits 90deg clockwise with the plugs facing passenger side with the wires tucked up behind the heater box and through the fire wall. Tape them up tidy so they don't get damaged and hide them along the edge of the foot well under the carpet. If it all reaches I wouldn't worry about moving the ecu from where you have it.
  13. Your car was carby so they may not Have put the mounts in. It sits so the wires face the passenger footwell at the very top of your picture. It sits ontop of the gear cables almost wedged under the foot air vents.
  14. Don't stress it. Just identify one wire at a time. Label things, take pictures and buy a workshop book like a Haynes manual. The wiring diagrams are quite good. There are usually wires that are for optional items too so there will be ones not used. Just tidy them up to one side and don't worry about them. If you get stuck post back here and we can try to work it out.
  15. That could make a bit of a difference. You might be better off keeping the 20v fuse box. It still depends on which fuse box is emptier ąnd how the wiring was done. Time to do some investigation and see what the story is.
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