Jim.

When time permits, I am going to remove mine and see how it works and if it might be serviceable.

Thanks campbeam. I suspect that is the problem. Heats up, then comes good. I will post back after my investigation. Edit: I found the sensor. Easy to get at. Now I have to find a new one. Jim.

The speedometer in my 1993 Toyota Camry read much higher than the actual speed when I first get in the car to drive it in the morning. It stays like that for 1/2 hour to 1 hour of driving. After that, it settles down to at least approximately the correct reading, using my tachometer as a second speed indicator. Can someone advise what might be going wrong with it? I don't even know if it electronic or cable driven. I cannot find a cable, so I'm assuming it is electronic. My first suspicion is that it has a faulty capacitor or two. They warm up and then stop leaking. Before I pull it out of the dash, I would be interested in reading if someone else knows about these, or has had the same problem. Jim.

Thanks for the reply Trent. Yes, it is the same phenomena that I thought I had fixed last time. I will remove the shaft again when next I get a chance and compare it to the spare that I have in the shed. In the meantime, it is leaking - with the new, or near new, seal. Jim.

The left side drive shaft in this vehicle has about 3 mm of end float when fitted into the transmission. It also has a considerable amount of vertical play when lifted. We are wondering if this is the correct drive shaft in this car. Is is possible a drive shaft out of an automatic version of this model would be different? If so, could it have been fitted with the wrong shaft during an earlier overhaul? There is no reason for me to doubt that this car has been running with the shaft like this since before I bought it two years ago. I've done around 25,000klms in it. What reason (if any) is there for concern? I don't like it at all. Jim.

Thanks again for checking Trent. Job done.

Never mind looking further Trent. I was able to open the operating system that I have my Mitchell On Demand service manual installed on. The figure in my Manual is 14ft/p or 19 nm. Your memory is good! Thanks anyway. Jim.

I am removing the manual transmission in my 1993 Camry. I'll be removing the clutch to replace the rear main oil seal. Can someone please advise the torque wrench settings to tighten the clutch pressure plate retaining bolts please? My old digital service manual is no longer readable as the operating system it runs in (Win 7) is no longer booting. I normally use Linux Mint for most computing operations. Jim. Solved.

I sympathise with your motivation to convert you auto to manual. I have owned both auto and manual 4 cylinder Camry wagons. The difference in power and economy is very significant. Also, they are more reliable if not abused. However, I agree with Trent. The ECU and wiring loom change over would be the deal breaker for me! Big, tedious job, that is for sure. But manual trans Camry's are becoming hard to find. I found a 93 model with only 125,000klms on the odometer.

I appears that I am not. Or at least, we are on different tracks. I will ask my mechanic/engine rebuilder buddy to read this thread when he call in next. He did the small mod that I described above and knows what shim I am talking in my opening post.

Thanks Trent. I have to replace the rear main seal sometime soon. When I do that, I will of course be draining the gearbox oil and removing the drive shafts. I will measure the ID and OD of the shims and make an assessment of what thickness shim I will need. I will leave this thread open until I do that. Or should I mark it as solved now?

Very good! Thanks for the link. I will remove the shim again and measure inside and outside diameters. Unless there is another way to find out?

Thanks again Trent. I understand the principle now. I found that the shims are no longer listed as available from Toyota. I will probably be able to either cut some or machine some. Although, machining something 2.8 mm thick presents some challenges. As for cutting some thin ones to add to the existing 2.5 mm ones? Well, I don't know. Any thoughts about this? I have to replace the rear main oil seal in this Camry one day soon. The front seals have now been done, so that is all the remains to be replaced. So, when I do that, I will tackle this differential pre-load problem then. In the meantime, I can figure out wether to machine some shims or cut some. One remaining question. I have only worked on one side. It stands to reason that the other side will at least need checking too. Does that make sense? Jim.

Ok. So when the tapered roller is pre-loaded correctly, the torque required to rotate the dummy stub will be as above? ie: .8 to 1.6 nm? What is "a very small flex beam" please? Got it! This has confused me though, sorry. Surely the output shaft torque required to rotate it will be the same as the test stub? What have I missed here? I could make one of those easily enough. I have a spare drive shaft I can take a stub from. Thanks again Trent! It's almost clear to me now. I made a tool for doing the diff preload, by parting off a spare CV stub that I had for the V6 gearbox I was rebuilding; and welding a nut in. I then thread locked the bolt in place..

That's good. I will check with Toyota when I am next in town. Ok. I think I have understood that. Does that mean that smaller shims are fitted until no free play is felt, then removed and smaller ones fitted according to your figures above? ie: to provide the .3 to .4 Nm? This has me puzzled though. Can you explain further please? Thanks for the reply Trent. Jim.

I have a 1993 Toyota Camry, 5SFE engine with a 5 speed manual transmission. The left side drive shaft had excessive play in the transmission(vertically and sideways) and the oil seal in the transmission case was leaking, no doubt due to the slop. As a result, a mechanic/engine rebuilder friend of mine took the bearing retainer away to his place of work and machined .1 mm off the face of it. This has reduced the sideways play greatly; but there is still some there. From my previous experience with another Camry of the same vintage, it also had a fair amount of slop, but was not manfiesting any noticeable problems. There is a spacer ring between the bearing retainer and the outside cone of the transmission roller taper bearing. I am wondering if Toyota supply spacers of different sizes? The one in the transmission now is 2.5 mm. Is there a set of sizes I wonder. It seems to me that it would be good practice to pre-load this tapered roller bearing slightly. I figured I would ask here before driving into town to ask the dealers. If anyone can clarify this please post here. Thanks, Jim.

Are/were both vehicles manual transmission? I have had an automatic trans Generation 3 Camry and now have a manual transmission one. Both had the same engine - 5SFE This current manual model uses around 20% less fuel than the automatic car. Also has lots more power.

Item: Toyota Camry ECU Location: Bellingen NSW Australia Website: N/A Item Condition: Used. Reason for Selling: No longer required: car has been wrecked. Price and Payment conditions: $60 prefer paypal or cash on collection. Any additional information: This unit is in working condition. Shipping: Willing to ship or postage under buyers expense. Pictures: See below. Contact Details: Jim Thompson : jim.thompson@skymesh.com.au or 0408346773 -------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yes I don't want to replace it. I just want to know which one it is in the case of failure, which I have read about in my searching for recent unrelated problems.

Yes, that is what I discovered as soon as I looked at both of them. I was at home far from the car when I asked the question. Is there a way for me to edit the thread title as solved, or do you do as moderator?

Not giving it away, I would like something for it. Is there a for sale section?

Excellent! Thanks Trent. I will pull it out and check it. One fellow on a youtube video suggests modifying it with an electrolytic capacity across the points to minimise arcing and subsequent likelyhood of failure.

I have an ECU out of an 1994 automatic 5SFE Camry that is no use to me as it is different to the one in my manual Camry. If anyone needs one, I can quote the serial numbers to clarify if it is the one you (might) require. I don't know if this is appropriate to post this here. Someone please let me know if it is not.

I am trying to locate the fuel pump relay, otherwise known as the circuit opening relay. On another thread, the location was described cryptically as "above the passenger side kick board". I have located four relays that fit that description. Can someone describe it for me a bit clearer. I will attach pictures of the one on the side of the inner car panel and the set of three that are mounted to the transverse 40mm diameter structural tube above the glove compartment.

Thanks for the reply Trent. I have it fixed and running now. It was a fault in the distributor. I had a spare rebuilt one in the boot and just swapped it over, then the motor started first crank. The local auto electrician had already told me the most common fault of this nature in the Camry is the distributor. I will now do what can to determine what component failed. I think I have another coil and some other parts in the shed. If so, I will swap out the coil first and see if that fixes it. I would like to have a spare in the back of the car again as I often go out West and like to be independent anyway. Points worth noting from this experience: 1. The distributor problem and associated lack of spark did not show in the codes when I ran them. 2. It seems that lack of spark inhibits the injector pulses and the fuel pump. In hindsight, this is logical - prevents the engine from flooding when spark is lost. I'll edit this thread as solved. - Just found this cannot be done on this site. What is the correct protocol for marking a thread as solved?