DHA2453

Finally managed to get myself a full kit off eBay. Numberplate mount, wiring kit, all along with the 20" single row 120w bar (I splurged a bit) for $126 which is pretty reasonable I think. I just want to check with you guys, how did you go with wiring? I've been told the Aurion might be negatively switched / grounded (had the same thing on my 2004 Kluger). This is a problem because I want to wire in with the high beam, not entirely on a separate switch.

Hmm I might give it a shot this weekend. Thanks for that.

Just a quick exhaust noob question, is unbolting the rear mufflers easy to do, and reverse?

Don't get me wrong, they're quiet and have decent grip around corners, but i've really had to adapt for accelerating off the mark. Then again there's probably only around 50% tread left. Can't wait for an upgrade. Any suggestions for good wheels on stock rims?

Righto, just the stock Michelins (Primacy's). Very basic. This is why I take it easy off the mark as the grip is c**p.

Just the stock 17''s. I did upgrade to the 2010 ZR6 rims, but they're the same specs.

The pedal was probably all the way to the ground at around 2 to 3 seconds in, i do that on purpose so I don't spin out lol.

Sorry to re-open this post, but has anyone had any joy having Toyota fix this if your car was out of warranty? I've got the same issue, but i've read a few comments saying that Toyota will normally replace the Intermediate shaft spline as it is a 'known issue', but does it matter if it's no longer under Toyota warranty? I'm the second owner and car is at 67k (2010 model)

I won't say where I did this, but this is my best measured time on a cool night, straight surface, just me driving: I count around the 6.5 to 6.8 mark.

Seems like the button isn't communicating, or maybe it's jammed and not going in all the way? I have the upgrade ac controls, so not sure about this issue, but maybe just buy this? You'll save instead of going to Toyota. http://www.ebay.com.au/ulk/itm/191705873926

Came across something interesting today and thought I would share and make sure my car wasn't being weird. I've driven an Aurion before but I actually own this one and like to experiment ^_^ ​. When I turn my key to a point between ACC and IGN (halfway before your actually in ignition), things like A/C, auto lights etc respond (no reds/ system checks, optitron still blacked out), and funny enough both radiator/ cooling fans come on as well at full blast. They stay on until I twist fully into IGN, or go back to ACC. The car was cold, on a cold night. I'm assuming this is some sort of back-up cooling method for whatever reason. Has anyone else seen this on their Aurions?

07Prodigy - this is pretty much the same look I'm after. But I'd be more interested in these new LED numberplate mounts which I think Sean K has got going on. More refined. JDT92 - now that's all next level! Can't really get that creative in my Touring. I'm hoping to get my own bar done up as a Christmas present (to myself, and the car), so i'll post up some pics asap.

-

I actually agree, i'm pretty sure the front grille is the same as the sportivo models. Looks closer to one with these rims.

Completely agree mate. I've done the same, except for the glove box. Got any advice on getting to this light and if it's the same LED type as all the other interior lights? If you mean the same as the gear selector bulb, yes. The smallest one used in the car (not the T10). Now the glovebox is probably the most painful. You need the entire assembly out. Open up the glovebox, there are a couple of screws on the top along where the trigger for the light itself is. Unscrew, then you'll need to gently pull the whole assembly out. You can manage to unclip the silver trim on the dash to help with getting everything out. then you should be able to get to the light assembly from the back of the glovebox and change it there and then, but make sure you test the bulb as this is a very annoying process to repeat. Hope this is clear enough.