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campbeam

Regular Member
  • Content count

    510
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campbeam last won the day on June 5

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About campbeam

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender*
    Male
  • Toyota Model
    Aurion
  • Toyota Year
    2006
  • Location
    Queensland
  • How did you find us?
    Google
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000
  • Interests
    General Automotive

Contact Methods

  • First Name
    Ashley
  1. TRANSMISSION FLUID LV 4L $36

    What exactly are you planning to do? Whether you are removing the transmission pan and replacing the filter or just changing the ATF held in the transmission pan, you need to understand what is involved, plan and prepare. One basic approach is to accurately measure the volume of ATF drained from the transmission and replace with a similar amount. This assumes that the transmission has the correct fill level. Far better to correctly perform the oil level check procedure.
  2. Radiators

    I would expect that a new radiator will have 12 months warranty. Local guy should be prepared and able to get a replacement from the supplier.
  3. TRANSMISSION FLUID LV 4L $36

    Suggest you have a look at the documents I attached on 9th January [Page 1 of this thread]. You need to loosen an engine mount etc to then raise the engine to give you room to access that 10mm bolt. I ended up using a variety of small/compact 10mm ring and open end spanners to loosen and then undo this bolt. Quite frustrating because you can only rotate the head of the bolt a small amount at a time. If that blessed sub-frame member had been better designed, then it would be all so easy to undo and remove the transmission oil pan in minutes not hours.
  4. TRANSMISSION FLUID LV 4L $36

    You need to be able to accurately measure the amount of fluid that is being drained/replaced. The new filter is going to absorb some ATF. As a workaround, you could add an extra 50-100mls to compensate for any measurement discrepancies. Recommend changing the oil pan fluid and doing the proper oil level check procedure after a week or so. As for the new pan gasket, I am sure that I coated it in ATF Hope you have done your research for removing the oil pan. There is one bolt that is covered by the sub-frame and it is a real challenge to access and undo.
  5. TRANSMISSION FLUID LV 4L $36

    I replaced approx. 2.5 litres of ATF when I removed the transmission pan and replaced the filter. When just draining and changing the ATF in the pan only, I replace approx. 1.0 to 1.8 litres of ATF depending upon whether the plastic oil level straw is also removed. I don't have the temperature scan tool so I do the oil level check procedure initially with a cold engine. Start engine and change through each of the gears at 10-15 second intervals. With engine still running and transmission in PARK, then check oil level [as per procedure]. Final step is to add another 200ml of ATF. Fully comprehend and do the oil level check procedure totally correctly and you will not have any issues. Personally, I had some not so smooth gear changes due to the ATF oil level being low but sorted it out after re-reading the procedures. Last ATF change was in August 2016 and the gear changes have been very smooth. Been procrastinating for the last few weekends so will most likely do an ATF change this weekend and again next weekend.
  6. Front Bumper

    You can just push it back into place. If the plastic clips have worn/lost their grip then most likely it will pop out again.
  7. Front Bumper

    Got the same issue but on a different part of the front bumper. I was thinking about using Sikaflex but have yet to do it.
  8. Surface Rust on some components under body

    Certainly would not worry about rust on the brake rotors. Presumably you are referring to the vent section. If there is rust on the braking surface of the rotor, it will soon disappear with a bit of driving. Be more concerned about the thickness of the rotors and the brake pads. Would not be too worried about the exhaust particularly if it is only light surface rust. You could try applying rust convertor to the rust on the exhaust if you really wanted to.
  9. ABS not functioning?

    My 2006 Aurion AT-X with about 166,000kms on the odometer was an opportunity eBay purchase. Afterwards, I did the research about the engine and transmission. I dropped the transmission pan and replaced the transmission filter and fluid [as high priority preventative maintenance task]. As forewarned, there was a fair amount of "sludge" coating the bottom of the transmission pan. This is why I would be inclined to check the speed sensors and clean off any accumulated coating as a starting point.
  10. ABS not functioning?

    https://www.justanswer.com/toyota/5jjgh-2007-toyota-camry-le-speed-sensor-cyl-test.html
  11. ABS not functioning?

    This URL may be of assistance. Diagram in the later post has a diagram showing the locations of the speed sensors on the transmission. I would be inclined to remove the sensors and clean contacts etc. How many kms on the odometer and has the transmission been serviced with a fluid change?
  12. Front Rotors/pads

    OEM specification new 28mm thickness; 25mm minimum thickness. I have also got light scoring on my front rotors. More noticed how worn down the Bendix Ultimate brake pads are after 2 years of light braking use. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Front-Pair-DBA-Brake-Rotor-DBA2709-Fit-Toyota-Aurion-3-5-06-ON-/142102444918?fits=Make%3AToyota|Model%3AAurion&epid=866372791&hash=item2115f73b76:g:7QIAAOSw3yxZmhd3
  13. 07 Camry Melting Dash

    Still go see a Toyota dealer particularly if the dash is really sticky now.
  14. Best to confirm with your State Transport Dept what headlight bulbs are legal. In most cases, you will also find that upgrading headlights to HID or LED is not permitted for your specific vehicle. I use the website www.powerbulbs.com for bulb information. If you do a bit more internet searching, you will find that high performance headlight bulbs have a shorter operating life. Personally, I am more into efficiencies and performance; not looks. Rather than the show-off factor, I am more into the Q-ship approach. I have the following on my eBay watchlist: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/H11-Genuine-Osram-NightBreaker-Unlimited-64211NBU-Globes-Bulbs-Lights-Twin-Pack-/261656983226?epid=1024976596&hash=item3cebf8b6ba:g:n70AAOSwabhUYHxc There is no specific mention but I think they are in the 4100-4300K range. If you look on the ToyotaNation Forum [USA based] you should find a number of posts where members have done headlight bulb upgrades with before and after photos.
  15. What oil for 2008 corolla

    Good starting point is your owners manual where Toyota will have a list of oil viscosity for various temperature ranges. My next step is to do Google searches with the search term lube guide and various oil brands then review the recommendations for your vehicle. http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/ValvolineAusMobile/ http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_au/ http://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ Personally, I buy whatever oil is on special with the latest oil classification i.e. SN or GF-5. I also do regular oil changes every 5,000kms but a lot of my driving is short distance <20 kms. As a general guide, synthetic oil or a semi-synthetic oil will be more suitable for longer oil chage intervals.