AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Regular Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


campbeam last won the day on June 5

campbeam had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

76 Brilliant Reputation

1 Follower

About campbeam

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender*
  • Toyota Model
  • Toyota Year
  • Location
  • How did you find us?
  • Annual Mileage
    10,001 to 15,000
  • Interests
    General Automotive

Contact Methods

  • First Name
  1. Noticed a few other Sportivos on eBay but more KMs.
  2. Definitely, the 2008 Gold assuming no mechanical faults/ expensive repairs required. Well worth considering paying the extra for registration. Ask yourself this question. If I wanted to resell the vehicle next month which one is more likely to sell? Personally, I prefer a stock standard vehicle. Fancy looking set of mags with gutter rash not appealing, more of a red flag that it may have been driven hard.
  3. I guess that you are leaving a smoke screen visible in your rear vision mirror. I would be checking for a blocked PCV [positive crankcase ventilation] valve and possibly also for engine sludge. If you had the V6 2GR-FE engine, I would definitely be saying that it is the oil channels in the valve cover becoming chocked with accumulated oil sludge such that the oil cannot drain back quickly enough before it is sucked up via the PCV valve into the intake. Solution is to either replace the valve cover or thoroughly degrease/clean it. Do not know the recommended oil change interval for your vehicle. If it is 10,000km then [in my opinion] you definitely need to be using a quality synthetic oil.
  4. Assuming that you have an eBay account, message both of these eBay sellers with your VIN.
  5. Yes that YouTube Video eventually supported my thoughts that if you drive/tow/brake hard to potentially overheat / warp the original rotors then you need to have higher specification quality rotors. After reading this URL including the comments, don't even think about buying budget rotors.
  6. Exactly why I double-check and even triple-check everything I do on the vehicle [and that is just the oil and filter change] with extra care and attention for the brake, suspension and steering.
  7. Copied from the following URL This could be many things, there is not one simple answer. First thing is figure out if the vibration is wheel/rim based, or suspension based. The easiest thing to do would be to rotate your tires (front to back) one at a time, then take a highway drive. Tire/rim damage becomes far less pronounced when the wheel is in the rear. If the problem clears up, you know the problem is wheel/rim based, and which wheel it is as well. You either have a bad tire, a bent rim, or need your wheel balanced. If the problem does not clear up, things get more complex. While you have your car jacked up, but your hands at 12 and 6 on the tire and rock back and forth. If the tire rocks, you need new wheel bearings asap. If you car clicks when you make sharp turns, it is the CV joint, but you could still get a vibration from a bad joint before you hear clicks. It could be a bent hub. A mechanic will have to do the hub or bearing job, as it requires special tools on your car. It's also expensive (several hundred). Check the front wheel alignment. From there on out, suspension components such as control arms and rods, or pehaps drive axles may be damaged. Your car may have previously been in an accident and time made the damage more pronounced.
  8. Keep saving and be on the lookout for buying opportunities e.g. clearance/liquidation sale. This was how I managed to buy on eBay both front and rear struts for my Nissan Pulsar project a few years ago. As I recall, they were ""old"" stock, new Monroe GT but on the shelf for about 12 months and got them about half-price. Since then, i have not seen that buying opportunity repeated.
  9. Lower ball joint should be dry/dusty on the outside. Grease is inside the rubber boot to lubricate the actual ball joint. If the boot is damaged then it is going to leak some grease and dirt gets in to ruin the joint.
  10. Back to the mechanic. Good possibility that the seal on the oil filter cartridge housing has not been properly fitted causing it to leak. Another suspect might be the oil pressure switch leaking. Best to check the oil level.
  11. Good to see that you have already tracked one down. I think RRP is about $155. Hope you were able to get a 20-25% discount. Looks like the cold weather gremlins may have killed another battery.
  12. Recommended battery for the Camry/Aurion is Century Battery model 55D23L MF [CCA 540] I recently bought for my Aurion the larger size and capacity Century Battery model 75D23L MF [CCA 620] when it was on special at SuperCheap. It is the recommended battery for the Kluger. Personally, I have not noticed any difference in the cranking and ease of engine start. Aurion Battery.docx
  13. That ball joint on the lower control arm also looks suspect. Maybe needs more attention than a wipe down.
  14. 8mm is the minimum thickness of the solid rear rotor. Maximum diameter of 171 mm refers to internal hat diameter of the rotor used by the handbrake shoe. Best to measure your rotor to confirm that the diameter is 291mm.
  15. I use Redbook for vehicle spefication details and Australian Car Review for problem and recall details.!content=recalls&make=Toyota&model=Landcruiser Prado&gen=908