antiussentiment

The Family Camry has started getting a flat battery overnight. It's a premium battery that just on 3 years old. So today I pulled off one of the battery leads and bridged that with my multi meter on the 10A range. After cycling the ignition switch a few times we occasionally get about 200mA when the switch is off (doors shut, dome light off). That seemed a lot so I started pulling fuses and watching the meter readout. It dropped to 10mA when I pulled the fuse marked DCC. What circuit does that protect (so I can work out where to look next)? I've also pulled out all the relays, one after the other, to see if one of them was stuck closed. But none of them caused a change in current.

We rebuilt a mates 3L (possibly what you have?) in his surf a few decades ago. His first rebuild and my first diesel. It had spun a big end bearing and the head was so eroded that it looked like rats had adapted to eating cast iron. He hunted down a cheap donor motor and we got the head off that (plus a few other bits). Too long ago for me to recall much. But in the end the project was fun and not too expensive. If your body/chassis is not riddled with rust, why not make it a project?

do you have a link?

Reading this left me in the boat with the "have you checked the valves" suggestion. Even if the rings were not bedding in well, I'd still expect some measurable compression even if it was a bit low. Maybe you have a valve that's sticking / has a bent stem? If you put a credit card over the exhaust when it's idling does it flap back and forwards like the exhaust is sucking as well as blowing? Have you ruled out a cracked head or leaky head gasket? Are there bubbles in your coolant when the engine runs etc?

While the RN85 Hilux has three sets of seatbelts across. A third person sitting amidships has to deal with the gear stick. Only 2nd is the problem gear actually. I'm wondering about pulling the stick out and bending it a little forward and then a little to the drivers side down just under the boot opening as it looks like this will mostly solve the issue. A few partial cuts with an angle grinder and a bit of heat. Then some welding and linnishing. The mod should be pretty straight forward. What I am concerned about is what lateral loading this may put on the shift mechanism in the gate - top of the box. Is this likely to wear the gate badly? Any comments by transmission experts would be greatly appreciated.

My RN85 is basically my daily. While it's not super loud, I do like the idea of it being a bit quieter. This sounds like a good idea. ..and I do like the use of the word "wireless". ~ laughs ~

I thought I'd report back. I made the idle a little richer and (mostly) it seems to have cured the problem. Very occasionally it's super lean on deceleration. But that's rare. I'm guessing there's a dashpot somewhere that's sticky? It is getting on a bit now so that's to be expected I guess.

I'd ask another mechanic? ~ shrugs ~ I'll watch this thread as I'm curious about gearbox stuff as I'd like to convert my RN85 to a column shift..

I wonder if you got your self a Bluetooth OBDII reader whether this is the sort of thing you could adjust with an phone app?

Hey thanks for the response @CONROD , apologies for not noticing your reply sooner. The engine is as standard as can be. Though if I recall the bloke who did the machining for me took it to 1st oversize. I did the build in 2019, so I've forgotten. But it was about freshening a 500 000km engine, not a performance build. No back firing. Just a burbling bubbling sound when I decelerate. I just wondered whether the decrease in exhaust pipe volume half way along my have something to do with it? After reading the crawler post I think I'll add a whisker of fuel to the idle circuit and see what that does. It idles fine, but as I read over and over again, a little too rich at idle does not hurt. I think the carby is jetted pretty well as part throttle cruise is close to perfect (or what's been suggested in other forum posts I've read)? The AFR Gauge is an AEM. Nice kit, but it came with the standard 10 second USA warranty. So when the Bosh wide band died after only 8 months they would not replace it.

I've rebuilt the 22R in my !994 Hilux. As there was a pinhole in the exhaust manifold, I bought some 50mm extractors to replace it. I had an exhaust bloke make me a new middle pipe and rear pipe. I did not specify I wanted the thing 50mm all the way though, so he gave me a standard 40mm pipe for the rear. When I lift off the accelerator (slowing down or coasting). I get a bunch of exhaust burble and I wonder if the pipe reduction is causing this. I bought a re-manufactured carby and an air fuel ratio gauge as part of the rebuild. At 100km/h cruise the AFR is a whisker over 15 and at idle it's about 13.5. When I decelerate or coast it goes almost full scale lean (about 17). So the question is. Exhaust pipe or too lean or both? Any advice from the carby tuning lords etc would be great.. Cheers Andrew

My 22R is +450 000km old. It's starting to show signs of a burned valve (business card on exhaust pipe flaps back and forth) though it's otherwise running ok. Given I'm looking at pulling the head off soon, I'm wondering about biting the bullet and doing a total rebuild. My googling/reading has lead me to believe that the 22R is a very good commercial motor. But will never really rev hard enough to be worth making a sports motor out of. Mine is still getting under 11 L/100km fuel economy around town (despite it's state). Though I do drive it gently. If you google about you'll see there is a bunch of peeps who've put Lexus 1UZ V8s in their Hilux's. If you're after ponies, that would be my suggestion?