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hayden

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Everything posted by hayden

  1. if you can get the air compressor to work by jumping the pressure switch. Its either you have a faulty pressure switch or you're low on gas. Cheers
  2. All great advices....Just keep up with the oil change and you'll be fine. Toyota 4 cylinders are driven by chain so they should last the life time of the engine. 6 speed automatic transmission is proven formula. Apart from brakes and tyres which are consumable. You've got nothing to worry about. All the best!!
  3. If only the rubber part broke off I wouldn’t worry about it. Hopefully you’ll catch it on your next oil change.
  4. 2002 should be OBDII compliant. So it should work with most handheld scanners. If you want to go the teachstream route. It would be a better choice since it has more functions. Especially with for newer Toyotas.
  5. Remove and clean vvt solenoid if it's dirty. Energise with 12 volt and check for operation. Why did you have to change rocker cover?
  6. The aftermarket quality is all over the place at the moment. If you can’t afford OEM. I would get one from a wrecker.
  7. First time I come across them. I have a 2007 estima and it doesn’t come with those clips.
  8. I would put the car on car stands and have a look at the suspension system. Use a pry bar to check and see anything is loose. Check and see if there’s movement on the steering rack while having someone steer for side to side. Also just check your tyres for wear pattern. Hopefully that should tells you your problem!!
  9. Can you tell if the side latch is working?? I’m assuming the cable is pulling by a latch to release a locking mechanism. It’s either cable has come loose or lock mechanism is jammed!
  10. Replacement battery 2032 hfn About $8 online.
  11. The trip computer display usually has a tiny halegon globe behind it which needs replacement. If it’s idling too high. Clean MAF sensor and IAC and check for any vacuum leaks. As for scanner. Mini vci cable that comes with Techstream. Forscan is also a great software.
  12. When it comes to such problems, You need to have a good wiring diagram and some tools like Techstream, multi meter and power probe. Otherwise you need help of a good mechanic with their Autel or Snap On scanner.
  13. Possibly dirty Idle Air Controller. It may have carbon build up and not allowing air to be drawn in at idle. I know mechanics wouldn’t miss this . But just in case they may have overlooked. Otherwise I would get a code reader and see if there are any error codes that can point you in the right direction.
  14. Basically check fuses with your multi meter and also swap over relays. Have a look this video. It might help..👍🏻 https://youtu.be/zCJw8x6XNCQ
  15. VCI cable…get one….money well spent. I also have an estima gsr50. Love the power but not enjoying paying for petrol. 😂 cheers,
  16. Could be knock sensor but not crank sensor. If you have a faulty crank sensor, it would not start or intermittently cutting out. As for knock sensors, when they’re faulty, you would get a check engine light on and low Power. Also the connector can deteriorate over time and caused a bad connection. So I would suggest to get code read before you’re going to throw some parts at it. just say if it was a knock sensor problem. I would suggest to go for genuine part, if not. Your local wrecker. Newer model Corolla and Camry shares similar engine. Don’t buy aftermarket knock sensor from Repco or SCA. PS: if you’re gonna be a loyal Toyota fan. Look up VCI cable with techstream. Good luck.
  17. No......it shouldn't have any effect.....the only thing it does will put a smile on your face.
  18. Hi there Does your car rev in neutral?? Get your code read would be good idea. Just to eliminate electrical faults… otherwise check your spark plugs, spark plug leads and fuel quality. cheers
  19. Toyota Chaser Anyone?
  20. $300 - $400 is fair, $1000? I think he's taking you for a ride. For those you wanted to change rear engine mount: Jack up the car and put it on car stands. You have to remove the right hand axle which involves axle nut, brake caliper, rotor and lower strut assembly which is held by 2 nuts and 1 bolt (all 17 mm). Place your car jack under the engine, use a piece small piece of wood for padding, apply a little bit of force. just so that it takes a little bit of weight so you can undo the main bolt (17 mm bolt) between the engine mount and the bracket which is attached to the SUBFRAME. To remove the bracket on the SUBFRAME there are 4 x 14 mm nuts, the two at the front are exposed, behind nuts are covered by black 2 plastic grommets which was needed to be removed so you can gain access to the nuts, you need 14 mm deep socket to remove them. There should be just enough room for you to remove the bracket afterwards. With the bracket removed, it leaves your engine amount behind with the axle still attached. There are 4 x 14mm bolts which holds your rear engine mount to the block. See if you can undo the bolts with the axle still in place otherwise you might have to remove the whole axle by undoing a circlip next to the axle centre bearing so you could tap it out off the engine mount bearing housing (remember to undo a 12 mm bolt right under the axle centre bearing which holds it in place). Installation is just the opposite. When I did mine recently, I bought the engine mount from TOYOTA for $105 inc GST. You could buy the rubber bit separately for 60 -70 dollar and have it press in, I think that's a hassle. Cheers from money saver,
  21. Eventhough, this is an old post however the information was very helpful, much appreciated. It helped me to resolve my wife's car ignition barrel issue, cheers Hayden. PS, MR minnit can't program toyota ignition key, I've asked?
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