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Aurion recall/ warranty fixes


czaja74

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Maybe if you add the transmission flare between 3rd & 4th when cold.

It's not a recall nor is there an official fix and only noticable on some Aurions.

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Maybe if you add the transmission flare between 3rd & 4th when cold.

It's not a recall nor is there an official fix and only noticable on some Aurions.

If you get stuck into your local dealer and you have warranty, they will get the 2009 software update ecu, the head of diagnostics came for a run in mine heard what it was doing 10 mins later the ecu was on order FREE.

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Just had this issue throw up...

Radio/CD player flickers and aircon unit sometimes has a mind of its own... anyone else has this problem or reckons this can be fixed under warranty along with the hose change?

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Just had this issue throw up...

Radio/CD player flickers and aircon unit sometimes has a mind of its own... anyone else has this problem or reckons this can be fixed under warranty along with the hose change?

Sounds like you are now getting the issue described here:

ZR6 Radio display panel

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i told my missus one of the solutions is to install a new HU to the Aurion... :D *genius* hey :P

Good one...

I still got the clunk noise from the rear end. After relasing hand foot brake and driving away I got sort of clunk noise. It sounds like shoe brakes are stuck and then suddenly released (I might be wrong). I know people pointed ABS thingy in action but time to time it sounds different (once quitter once noisier) :blink:

Edited by czaja74
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I still got the slunk noise from the rear end. After relasing hand foot brake and driving away I got sort of clunk noise. It sounds like shoe brakes are stuck and then suddenly released (I might be wrong). I know people pointed ABS thingy in action but time to time it sounds different (once quitter once noisier) :blink:

Unless you get it more than once after starting the engine and driving off, it's your ABS self test. I have found that temperature can affect how the clunk sounds as well as how much you were applying your brakes prior to driving off. It can also sound like it is coming from either on of the wheels or just from the engine bay. It varies.

If you think that sounds bad, from an engine start, try accelerating in reverse (sometimes I do this reversing out of my driveway) then when the speed starts to pick up, apply the brakes lightly. This results in a clunk that sounds like your brakes are going to fall off or something.

Mine does the clunk noise too, sometimes I dont even notice it. I've actually forgotten all about it.

Of course it does. I would be concerned if it didn't.

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  • 1 month later...

Not so much a recall as a warranty question, but does anybody know if warranty covers your paint finish?

While detailing on the weekend, I noticed about an inch and a half by half inch patch of clear coat has peeled away.

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So I dropped my Aurion this morning for the recall and just got it back. I complaint about the air-con that make the noise thingy like when u stick a paper to a fan, they replaced it under the warranty, and the reason is another faulty. So those of you who have this and wanna fix it, better hurry.

Another thing I asked Toyota to fix is the rattles that came up again. This time, they don't fix it under warranty. Here's the idea of what is written on the paperwork

Apparently, rattles is only fixed under 1 year warranty / 20,000Km, whichever comes first. Due to Mag wheels, extremely low profile tyre and change in suspension, this isn't covered under warranty. This can be repaired at owner's cost @$$$/hr, labour cost.

When I said, I got lots of people who wear 20s and even a 22s on their car and so far is fine with it, of course with aftermarket suspension, the advisor could say nothin. Zzzzzz

I think it's fair enough, but it just made me feel that Toyota Australia now produce vehicles just right on the barely 'pass' quality level. It's not like I'm modding the car with insanely big wheels and super low springs. And I drive my car very careful and slow, unless on a smooth long road.. I know I paid for what I get, but im losing the value too quick over the time.. Just My opinion - Maybe It's bcoz the damn hot & humid today Im now irritated..

Edited by VF-X
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put your original suspension and wheels back on the car, if it still squeaks then take it back.

I'm sure your aftermarket suspension and wheels aren't what toyota had in mind when designing the car to meet the expected NVH requirements.

Edited by CHA54
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I'm sure your aftermarket suspension and wheels aren't what toyota had in mind when designing the car to meet the expected NVH requirements.

Yeah but I see VF-X's point. If you're buying a $45,000 car, it damn well ought to be better than only just on the pass side of the acceptable quality requirements! If blokes I know can put bigger wheels and low profile tires on a sub-$18,000 crappy Lancer Coupe and have no issues, then no quality issues should arise from something as a wheel and suspension upgrade on a $45,000 Aurion!

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put your original suspension and wheels back on the car, if it still squeaks then take it back.

I'm sure your aftermarket suspension and wheels aren't what toyota had in mind when designing the car to meet the expected NVH requirements.

Sorry If I wasn't clear. It was fixed the 1st time. But as you can see with many members here. After the 1st fixed, over time it came up again. A 40-50G car shouldn't have problem these much. Rather than swapping the things back and bring it back to them, It makes much more sense to just pay the labour and fix it. Anw, The problem doesn't only lie when I use the wheels and suspension. The problem is the result of me installing this mods.

The reason of the rattle is partly Toyota's fault. Even people who don't do my mods have rattles and other problems to begin with.

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Well tomorrow I'm taking it in a t 7.40am then off to work then after work(MAYBE picking up the car) going to be a big day tomorrow, oh boy. <_<

Anyway, I'm going to get my shaft and gasket replaced with brand spanking new ones, I'm also going to enquire about gear flare and I also heard that some dealers are replacing the CD players because older ones like my 07 ones are too bright at night.

So lets see how lucky I am if they will swap it over. Its going to take a lot of convincing. Because I really dislike how bright it is and apparently the newer ones aren't as bright.

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  • 2 months later...

My next warranty job would be the following that I've written down and will tell the guys at Toyota:

> "Cracking" noise coming from LHS dash near tweeter grill.

> "Gear Shifter cover and bottom plastic are touching (No gap between them, I looked at the new Aurions at the dealer last time I went there to drop my car off, there is now a gap which prevents both plastics touching) when braking or accelerating which results in it creaking as two parts move"

>Driver seat(Bottom cusion) is I think broken because you can lift it completely off from its housing, where as the passenger side you can't, so that can't be right!)

All very minor things that I could probably fix myself but I didn't pay for extended warranty for nothing :ph34r:

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  • 1 year later...

As for the oil line, I asked toyota about this just last week. up to September 08 models have a rubber pipe insert on the back VVT-i line, from after this the hose was replaced with a complete metal one, no rubber insert in the middle, if they are replacing it under warranty it would pay to discuss they put in the better metal pipe or paying the difference and getting the full metal pipe. I have read other forums online about this and they say the metal pipe with gaskets is about $45. I found it googling the oil sender, the fault is due to vibration and the metal parts of the pipe wearing through the rubber. Mine is a 2010 model and the guy at toyota showed me the pre-April 08 pipe and the one used after, he printed this out for me. I feel the metal pipe is what they should be replacing it with under the recall/warranty.

post-27452-0-61398300-1332606815_thumb.j

Edited by SATORI893
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I feel the metal pipe is what they should be replacing it with under the recall/warranty.

Here we go again ...

To do this by the book, the engine needs to be removed. Do you have the time to go without your car for at least 2 days and do you want to risk all the possible side-effects from such a job?

I found it googling the oil sender, the fault is due to vibration and the metal parts of the pipe wearing through the rubber.

Don't always trust google; the early hose material was inappropriate, with the new hose being of an appropriate material.

If the potential problem is gone, what more do you want?

Edited by 450HP/tonne
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