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Wheel size, Offset, PCD, Clearance, Tyre Size


E-Gene

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Name of Wheel Parts

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Wheel Size

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Offset

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The offset indicates the distance from the center of the rim to the attaching disk part (unit:m/m). As seen in the attached drawing, the offset is indicated by "+" when the fitting surface extends beyond the central line of the rim and "-" when it is falls within. Caution is required to prevent the tire from coming into contact with the fender of the vehicle or the brake caliper if the offsets are very different.

P.C.D.

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The number of bolts used to install a wheel varies from 4 to 6 depending on the vehicle model (except for some vehicle type), thus the wheel to be installed should also possess the same number of hub bolt holes. P.C.D. stands for pitch circle diameter, and indicates the diameter of the circle in mm connecting the center of each hub bolt. Since the P.C.D. also varies according to the vehicle model, make sure a suitable one is selected.

Clearance

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Fender clearance indicates the marginal space between the tire and the fender or body of the vehicle. Inner clearance indicates the distance between the tire and wheel and the body part which is positioned closest to the tire and wheel. Dimensions for both right and left clearance should be measured on a level surface, and the smaller value is then considered as the inner clearance.

Tyre Size

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1-Tire width (mm or inch)

2-Aspect ratio

3-Radial construction

4-Rim diameter

5-Load index

6-Speed symbol

7-Tire outer diameter (inch)

8-Ply rating

*from enkei.co.jp

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Im looking at new rims, and all this talk is doing my head in LOLOL

So basically, for the corolla, you want the offset from 0 to - or + 45??? :help:

Simo, when you find the wheels you want, tell the fella u want the wheels in what ever size and width, then tell them u want a PCD of 4x100 and an offset of +45 or +42. Simple.

Offset is the distance fromthe centre of the rim, to where the stud holes are. its a + offset when the studs are closer to the outside of the wheel, and a - offset when the stud holes are closer to the inside of the wheel.

Basically, the idea behind it is to transplant the weight of the vehicle evenly down the shocks and into the wheels. If you change the centre line, the car wont be as balanced. So you want to stay as close as possible to the standard offset, or if going wider wheels ie 17x7 as opposed to 16x6.5 (or whatever the standard wheels are) get a slightly smaller offset.

Hence, +45 or +42 are your best bet cob.

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Yea cob they come from the same factory as mine in Taiwan, just a different brand name! Mine are HR Racing 125, can get them from Jax Fyshwick for $245 a piece...

There's a mob in Sydney that sells em too hang on I'll update this post when I find a link

Here we go, this place is in Vic but they have a sister shop in NSW....

http://www.mswt.com.au/

Here they are...

http://www.agrtyres.com.au/

Also Australia's Best in Sydney might send em

http://www.tyres.com/mags.cfm

Ozzy might have a design the same as them too, seriously I've seen them in about 5 brands and they all come from the same joint lol :lol:

Edited by Tayles
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just to add the above.

I bouyght off ebay some cool Ray's Mags for my 89 celica,but thePCD is 114.3 The Celica standardPCD is 100.

Someboby else brought this up. No I don't want to weld up the holes & redrill them.

Toyota Camry have 114.3 PCD.

So the million dollar question is can I fit Camry front & rear hubs to my celica? Do I need to change the suspension bits such as uprights,Do I need to change the CV joints & drive shafts, change the disc brakes etc

Or presto the camy's discs & hubs simply bolt on

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  • 2 months later...

Hey guys, I drive a 2003 Corolla Sportivo with King Lows at the front and Super Lows at the rear and I'm looking at getting some wheels that are

18x7.5 4x100 +40offset

Just wanted to know.. will the offset and width be suitable for my car?

And also what tire size should I get along with these wheels? (just looking for any size that won't scrub)

Thanks!

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  • 5 months later...

Thread revival...

I've been looking into this recently, and here is a calculator that works out how much the wheel position changes by with a change in width/offset:

http://www.1010tires.com/WheelOffsetCalculator.asp

Micky referred earlier on to making sure that the the weight is distributed evenly from the shocks into the wheels...

So what is worse for the car? Pushing the wheels too far out, or pushing the wheels too far in?

And how much is too much? I was mucking around earlier with a few different wheels and came up with values that pushed the wheel outwards from 6mm to 13mm. What effect would 13mm have on the car that 6mm wouldn't?

Edited by Leroy
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I'm no expert in this area, however the following paragraph is from rta nsw web site which specifies the legal limits of increasing/decreasing wheel track width without needing an engineering certificate.

"An important requirement for all replacement wheels is that the wheel track must not be increased by more than

25mm beyond the maximum specified by the vehicle manufacturer for that vehicle.

Where non original axle or suspension components are fitted, the offset of the wheel in relation to the axle or stub

axle assembly used shall not be increased by more than 12.5mm each side of the vehicle based on the specifications

of the axle components used. If an axle assembly is shortened then the track width limit is taken as the axle

manufacturers original track dimension, less the amount the assembly has been narrowed, plus 25mm"

Correct me if I'm wrong, but does this mean the lowest wheel offset we can go is 45-12.5 = +32.5mm

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I'm no expert in this area, however the following paragraph is from rta nsw web site which specifies the legal limits of increasing/decreasing wheel track width without needing an engineering certificate.

"An important requirement for all replacement wheels is that the wheel track must not be increased by more than

25mm beyond the maximum specified by the vehicle manufacturer for that vehicle.

Where non original axle or suspension components are fitted, the offset of the wheel in relation to the axle or stub

axle assembly used shall not be increased by more than 12.5mm each side of the vehicle based on the specifications

of the axle components used. If an axle assembly is shortened then the track width limit is taken as the axle

manufacturers original track dimension, less the amount the assembly has been narrowed, plus 25mm"

Correct me if I'm wrong, but does this mean the lowest wheel offset we can go is 45-12.5 = +32.5mm

That doesn't take into account changing the width of the wheel, though.

I was hypothetically playing around with a set of 16 x 7 wheels with a +38 offset.... When compared to the stock wheels (I've been informed 16 x 6, +45 offset), the calculator gave me a figure of 20mm movement further from the strut. I may be mistaken, but I'm under the impression that is per wheel.

So, going by the RTA post, that would equal 40mm extra track width... which is clearly not legal. Which is still nowhere near as bad as +32.5 (assuming a 7" width).

Anyone else care to clarify?

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