AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Recommended Posts

 

Hi Krigeroz.

Here is the information directly from owners handbook. Page 330

Have Uploaded a replacement file no thanks to photobucket...

20161220_161313_1.jpg

20170923_055904.jpg

Edited by Tony Prodigy

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Get the "pink" SLL coolant from Toyota directly. It's around $30 for a 5 litre 50/50 premix. I wouldn't trust outsider brands for coolant. Keep it original as the factory intended.

The premix is convenient for those who don't want to mix the concentrate with De mineralised water. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

I wouldn't trust outsider brands for coolant. Keep it original as the factory intended.

Nulon and Penrite red/pink coolants are perfectly safe to use in replacement of LLC and SLLC.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Tony Prodigy said:

Hi Krigeroz.

Here is the information directly from owners handbook. Page 330

20161220_161313_1.jpg

Thank you so much for that :)  I should know better my car's manual :)

Edited by krigeroz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Nulon and Penrite red/pink coolants are perfectly safe to use in replacement of LLC and SLLC.

Yeah that's what I've thought, at the moment I got red Nulon pre-mix long life coolant 5 liters, just was not sure about the exact amount. 

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/by-specs/coolant?specs=85

I think it is the best coolant you can get from the shop.

Edited by krigeroz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
25 minutes ago, krigeroz said:

Yeah that's what I've thought, at the moment I got red Nulon pre-mix long life coolant 5 liters, just was not sure about the exact amount. 

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/by-specs/coolant?specs=85

Do not use the Nulon Red (LLC) in place of pink SLLC. You will need to use Penrite if you do not use Toyota genuine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:

Do not use the Nulon Red (LLC) in place of pink SLLC. You will need to use Penrite if you do not use Toyota genuine.

Ok, interesting, I though Nulon Is better option.  Good that I did not buy two.

 

But I think both meet Toyota Long Life TSK2601G requirements 

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=6&id_subcateg=67&id_products=754

http://www.nulon.com.au/products/by-specs/coolant?specs=85

Edited by krigeroz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, krigeroz said:

Ok, interesting, I though Nulon Is better option.  Good that I did not buy two.

With that being said, Penrite have now replaced their pink coolants with the red 8 year products. Nulon have also extended their red range to 8 years, so it should be fine as well now.

This change must have occurred in the last few months.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
35 minutes ago, trentmeyer23 said:

With that being said, Penrite have now replaced their pink coolants with the red 8 year products. Nulon have also extended their red range to 8 years, so it should be fine as well now.

This change must have occurred in the last few months.

Because, both look very similar with the same specs, I may think that they make them at the same factory somewhere in Australia. 

I think the reason I picked Nulon over Penrite, because it has higher boiling point up to +128C.

Edited by krigeroz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, krigeroz said:

Because, both look very similar with the same specs, I may think that they make them at the same factory somewhere in Australia. 

They have the same specs to comply with OEM requirements. You will be fine to use what you have. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I am getting prepared for the coolant flush, initially I thought that there is only one plug under the radiator (the yellow one) but then came across that there is one more, somewhere in front of the oil pan.... Is that the case?

Right now Red Coolant is on sale for $20 long life 8 years on their site it shows 6 but once you go to the shop you find that they sell 8 years long life.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why not use Toyota red? Its basically one of thr best coolants available. It gets changed very infrequently as its long life. Toyota puts there name to it ( for whatever thats worth) and your full flush doesnt need to be so through. Just dump put what you can. Plug it. Refill with new stuff. If there is a bit if old coolant left over it will just mix through. Easy.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Thirteen said:

Why not use Toyota red? Its basically one of thr best coolants available. It gets changed very infrequently as its long life. Toyota puts there name to it ( for whatever thats worth) and your full flush doesnt need to be so through. Just dump put what you can. Plug it. Refill with new stuff. If there is a bit if old coolant left over it will just mix through. Easy.

Look, I probably would use the original Toyota coolant or ATF if they would be sold in our local SCA or Repco. If I know that the replacement is 90% good as the original and I pay half price compare to the genuine, I feel very happy. ☺ So it is basically convenience getting it from the local store and and amount of money I pay = value for me. Maybe five or ten years ago I would only go with Toyota original supplies but today Toyota's substitute products just as good. 

And my question is, how many taps I need to open for a complete flash? 1,2 or 3? Initially I thought that it is only one, the yellow plug. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Enough to get all the old coolant out! Or as many points as fluid will come out. 

 Best bet if your concerned with it mixing is drain out what you can from all points (including heater core), then fill the system up with demin water. Let that cycle through for few minutes. Then open all the taps to drain out. Demin last i checked is about $6 for 5L. This will dilute the old stuff enough. Then fill up with new stuff. 

Edited by Thirteen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

TY Ashley, very helpful info as usual

Keep Well and Safe on the black stuff

KAA

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, campbeam said:

Finally got around to checking the manual. Apparently there are 3 drain cocks. Attached document may be of some further assistance

Thank you, the reason I asked about additional drain plugs, after I saw this video: 

Then I was like... Ooh there is more drain plugs.... :ohmy:

 

Capture57.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you you know about the orange 10 years Nulon coolant? Just now I saw it on Nulon website. I've never seen it at SCA before. It could be a direct replacement with Toyota's long life coolant :cool:.

Toyota also made an ad just for their coolant, it is actually very good ad, especially the end part:

Capture366.jpg

 

Edited by krigeroz

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, campbeam said:

This is a video for the 2GR-FE coolant drain.

Ooh excellent, thank you...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/18/2017 at 7:59 PM, Thirteen said:

Why not use Toyota red? Its basically one of thr best coolants available.

Amazon will be opening  very soon here in Oz, it would be very good competition to SCA and Repco. Once they start selling good range of auto products like in US, why not it would be an easy choice for everyone.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 22/11/2017 at 8:45 PM, campbeam said:

This is a video for the 2GR-FE coolant drain.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRRpnMcA6vU

 

Are you sure its a 2gr? Or you having a guess.... it does say 1MZ in large writing on the head.... plus oil fill port is not 2gr. Oh and description says 1MZ too 😁

Edited by Thirteen

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
38 minutes ago, Thirteen said:

it does say 1MZ in large writing on the head

Yes. Obviously too much of a rush and did not look at the video closely enough. Just use it as a guide. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

    • By campbeam
      Interested to know what coolant system maintenance checks other forum members are doing.
      I regularly check the coolant level and replace the coolant in the overflow bottle about every 6 months. I have bought ph test strips on eBay but have not used them on a regular basis.
      Very interested in having the coolant system as efficient as possible particularly with the hot Summer days coming.
      After reading the articles in the attached URLs, I am confident that the coolant is in good condition but planning to do a ph test soon.
      https://practicalmotoring.com.au/car-advice/what-is-coolant-antifreeze-and-why-does-you-car-need-it/
      https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/antifreeze
       
    • By ab56452001
      Hi all new member here , recently retired , just bought a 99 Tarago cheap ! , maybe to cheap ! , anyhow ive got a bit of time on my hands now and im not to shaby with the tools . My prob is the vans dual fuel ( got to put a new fuel pump in on the weekend , when i find where it is ! ) and it had a cracked cooland tank , so ive bought a new one , reconected all hoses in the right positions ( i think ) , but im still losing water , and a fair bit ! , no steam from exhaust pipe and no obvious hose leakages , car doesnt get hot , coolant just vanishes . There seems to be a small amount driping under car aboutst where the water pump is , but im not realy sure , i cant seem to trace the leakage , any help/tips would be much appreciated , cheers.
    • By dave262
      It's been a while since I've been on (literally have had no time for many months)... but had a fairly catastrophic failure of the water pump this morning with zero warning at any time previously!
      Had the car serviced on it's usual schedule about 3 months ago - the 90,000 km major service. No leaks reported, no abnormal noises, no cooling issues found. Back on the 50,000 km service during my usual fluid checks, I had however noticed a sudden drop in the coolant reserve reservoir; but at the service shortly after I found that - neither Toyota nor myself could find any sign of a leak, so we put it down to possibly air pocket in the coolant system that had suddenly cleared out.
      Yesterday I came back from a trip from Phillip Island, only approximately 2 hours drive from Melbourne of mostly freeway driving, and no issues at all. No cooling issues, no leaks, no noises. I started the car this morning, and was immediately greated with a very loud and consistent squealing noise, which lasted approximately 3 minutes before completely disappearing as the car warmed. I tracked it down to the area on the front end of the engine; and seemed to be one of the pulleys. I couldn't see any wobbling pulleys or any indication of leaks (there was no sign at all, no water under the car etc.) - and given the heavy rain yesterday afternoon, I figured it was just water on the belt that was making it slip. The coolant reservoir was also at its normal level, middle.
      I drove off to do my grocery shopping (about half an hour after a 20 minute drive), and came back to find the car resting in a pool of pink coolant approximately 1m wide Overflow reservoir was almost empty now, and when I shone a torch down the side to the water pump pulley, there was clear signs of coolant everywhere on the splash guard along with oily white residue splattered up on the side of the induction box... As there was still coolant in the system, I jacked up the heater to max, and turned on the aircon to force the fans on the radiator on; and carefully made my way to the nearest car shop to get some coolant. By the time I made it to the car shop, while the car was idling I checked under the bonnet again to see the condition, and to my alarm the water pump pulley was wobbling around erratically and gushing coolant from behind. By this point, the coolant reservoir is completely empty. I topped up the reservoir and let the car idle for a couple of minute while it sucked in the coolant, during which time I had to top it up again twice (it was obviously leaking heavily while driving, despite me keeping it under 2k RPM).
      So I limped it back to the nearest Toyota dealer, where it is currently waiting on the street until they open tomorrow and I can get it inspected. I had to top up the coolant 3 times in the 15 minute drive there... so it is a very serious leak for certain.
      What I am wondering (sorry about the long story!), has anybody else had the water pump fail at only 95,000 km? And if not, how long should it typically last? My suspicion is Toyota overtightened the belt at last service, which buggered the bearing and thus broke the water seal (I hope there is no oil seal connected to the timing chain too? I forgot to check the oil colour under the cap for signs of moisture). It has been about 6000km since the service, and a heavily overtightened belt I can see causing a bearing failure in that time... as I have had this experience in the past with other cars.
      I really, really don't want to be spending $1k or whatever it may cost to fix the pump if it is Toyota's service dept who caused the premature failure...
    • By cardi777
      Hi,
      Newbie here with some probably obvious questions. I don't expect a definitive answer, as no one reading has seen the car.
      Coolant colour:
      My car's coolant is red, but when i look in the cap above the radiator, the inside looks orangey with some erosion on the lid and that general area inside. Im not sure if I am looking at rust or something else?
      The car drives beautifully, engine is smooth sounding and has never leaked oil or coolant anywhere. The temp never goes past half way, it usually stays at just under half way no matter what the situation is. Its been like this since i got it. It's been serviced as well, no one has pointed out the problem before.
      Its a corolla 1999 model
      Does this sound like a rust issue? If this is rust, do I have a major problem on my hands? Perhaps a previous owner put water in the coolant? See attached images
      Clunks
      When the car hasn't been used in a while, it feels like the back breaks get stuck, and I hear a loud giving way clunk noise coming from the back of the car. Does anyone know what this is likely to be? I wonder if its just the brakes sticking to the wheel somehow
      Starter motor
      When I start the car, the starter motor sometimes makes a loud spinning kind of sound once the car's engine has already started. It sounds similar to the sound you hear if you try to start a car while driving around the block. It seems unavoidable sometimes, no matter how quickly I try to start it. Perhaps it's me turning it on too slowly, but is there something else that it could be



  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.