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TRANSMISSION FLUID LV 4L $36


krigeroz

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5 hours ago, campbeam said:

You need to be able to accurately measure the amount of fluid that is being drained/replaced. The new filter is going to absorb some ATF. As a workaround, you could add an extra 50-100mls to compensate for any measurement discrepancies. Recommend changing the oil pan fluid and doing the proper oil level check procedure after a week or so.

Thank you. I will scrap as much ATF from pan as I can :) As far as I can understand, the basic rule of thumb is to stay within the limit and do not exceed 2.8 liters.

Edited by krigeroz
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What exactly are you planning to do? Whether you are removing the transmission pan and replacing the filter or just changing the ATF held in the transmission pan, you need to understand what is involved, plan and prepare. 

One basic approach is to accurately measure the volume of ATF drained from the transmission and replace with a similar amount. This assumes that the transmission has the correct fill level. Far better to correctly perform the oil level check procedure. 

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3 hours ago, campbeam said:

One basic approach is to accurately measure the volume of ATF drained from the transmission and replace with a similar amount. This assumes that the transmission has the correct fill level. Far better to correctly perform the oil level check procedure. 

My ultimate plan is to remove the pan drain and scrap all ATF then measure and hope it will be around 2.5L - 2.7L, replace with a new filter. Then pour back around 2.7L or the same amount I got in the drain bucket. Take the car for a drive and make sure i don't exceed 2.8L of ATF. Hope that it will do the job.

Edited by krigeroz
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On 20 September 2017 at 12:03 AM, krigeroz said:

I just wanted to ask you a few questions about the transmission fluid change.

- you change 2.8 liters of transmission fluid is it including  the new filter change as well?

- when you take 2.8 liters do you go through 45 degrees  process of heating the transmission first?

- what if I add 100ml less or more, will it do much harm to the transmission?

I changed the filter the first time I changed some fluid, at about 80,000 on one atx and 200,000 on our other one. After that I have just drained fluid via drain hole in pan and replaced that amount. 

No, I never bother with that, all of the complicated proceedures are just crap. I used to work for a Holden Stealership, admittedly on simpler autos but I did rebuilds for about 5 years. I am firmly of the belief that its just not that complicated.

 

100ml over or under... I cant say with any proof but I think no. I always err on the side of putting more back in than comes out so I think both of my aurions have above the correct fluid level. I have never done the proceedure to check. However, both function perfectly and my one gets flogged a bit, not my wifes though. 

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16 hours ago, krigeroz said:

My ultimate plan is to remove the pan drain and scrap all ATF then measure and hope it will be around 2.5L - 2.7L, replace with a new filter. Then pour back around 2.7L or the same amount I got in the drain bucket. Take the car for a drive and make sure i don't exceed 2.8L of ATF. Hope that it will do the job.

That is exactly what I do. 2.8 litres comes out of my 2 aurions every time. Fluid at last change on my 225,000km 2007 is same as new fluid so I will leave it longer than the 15,000km intervals I was doing. 

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Wow ! Interesting info, Aurion doesn't have an AT dipstick to check level ? Struth ! Not sure it can be done accurately with the Aurion but on my old MCV20R Camry I flush the fluid via the oil cooler lines & top up through the dipstick same amount that comes out at 2L intervals until the fluid that exits the cooler lines is clean/new.

Recently I quizzed Penrite techs about Auto transmissions & their fluids as I know little about them (I have driven only MT cars all my life = almost 30 years) & they're of the opinion it's mostly heat that destroys/breaks down AT fluid & ultimately the transmission itself. Their recommendation was "changing the fluid and filter every 2 to 3 years 38500 km to 58000 km or once a year/every 32000 km if a vehicle is used for towing or other severe service use"

They also said:

"Heat is the main concern for ATF. Automatic transmissions create a lot of friction, and friction produces heat. The fluid is constantly churning inside the torque converter and being pumped through metering orifices and hydraulic circuits. Every time the transmission shifts gears, the clutch packs generate even more heat that must be carried away by the fluid. The greater the load on the transmission, the more heat it generates and the hotter the fluid gets. Most ATF can withstand normal operating temperatures of around 90C for tens of thousands of kilometres. But if the temperature of the fluid rises above about 104C (220 degrees F) the fluid starts to break down quickly. Above 150C, fluid life is measured in hundreds, not thousands of kilometres. Above 200C, the fluid can self-destruct in 20 to 30 minutes! ATF contains ingredients to improve its oxidation stability as well as other additives to reduce foaming and inhibit corrosion. Over time, the protective additives can also break down causing the fluid's lubrication properties and viscosity to change for the worse. That's why fluid breakdown is the leading cause of transmission operating problems and failure."

Full synthetic oils last a lot longer but consider it as a safety net.

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Like yourself, I have also flushed my 1998 Camry transmission via the oil lines. I have delayed doing this on my Aurion transmission [U660E] due to no dipstick. Now that I have got the oil level check procedure worked out and also the oil hoses, I am more confident about proceeding with a flush at a later time. Attached document has a table of temperature and expected ATF life. ATF Life and Temperature Relationship.docx59926932a577a_ATFFailureTemperatureChart.jpg.434797cee7f3151f3e88612042602a53.jpg

 

I think you will find that the A960E automatic transmission fitted to the Toyota 86 also is "sealed" without a dipstick.

U660E Oil Cool Hose Location.doc

A960E Automatic Transmission.pdf

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What do you do with used ATF, can I drop it off at Supercheap Auto? 

If you need to stock up some more ATF now is a good time it is just $30 from SCA if you follow the trend right you don't need to spend more than $30 for quality synthetic oil fluids. Usually good sales come around September each year.

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I have not used Penrite ATF because they specify a full flush/change of the existing Toyota WS fluid.

I will be using Chief brand full synthetic ATF for quite some time because I bought lots on special at SuperCheap Auto. Bargain price so I am changing the ATF in the transmission pan every 12 months or so.

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Thanks for that info Ash.

I suspect then for the rest of us who don't flush the way you, my reckoning would be to just use the Toyota ATF. That way there's no potential for cross contamination of factory fill fluid to third party fluid.

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Last night, parked my 2006 ATX Aurion in position ready for the ATF change first thing this morning. Engine was not started, just jacked up the front passenger side to remove the wheel and access the fill plug bolt. Surprisingly, the drain bolt was hard to undo even with my long 6mm allen key. Could be because the engine and transmission was cold.

I was also a bit more precise in measuring the amount of fluid being drained [using a 2 litre plastic measuring jug]. Undoing the pan drain bolt resulted in approx. 1300ml of ATF. Removing the internal plastic straw drained a further 650ml of ATF. Ended up putting exactly 2 litres of ATF back into the transmission.

I also put some anti-seize on the drain bolt, Fill bolt also got some too more by mistake than intent. Intention is to redo this oil pan ATF change again in a week or so. 

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I have mixed in the Penrite LV in my 2aurions, by now they mainly have the Penrite fluid in them or at least half after 3 drains of 2.8 litres each. Both cars have over 20 000 km since the first Penrite refil, both drive very well

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On 9/22/2017 at 12:07 PM, campbeam said:

I think you will find that the A960E automatic transmission fitted to the Toyota 86 also is "sealed" without a dipstick.

I wouldn't know - mines a 6 speed manual ;)  Have swapped out fluid several times already - a cinch.

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I undid my drain plug in error today and measured just over 1 litre of oil had drained out. I topped this up with 1 litre of Penrite ATF LV. So Im probably 100ml or so under what it should be although the oil was hot when I drained it so Im assuming that once cold its as probably only around 1 litre drained?

 

But now that Ive read this thread on here and it seems that its not the end of the world if you don't have a scan tool to check the oil level at certain temps etc Im going to do  an oil change on my tranny.

Ive only done 62000K so won't bother with the filter just yet. So is the procedure just to undo the drain plug and then the tube thats inside and replace with the exact same volume?

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In your case, if you have issues with flaring or gear changes being rougher, add 100ml of ATF and review.

3 hours ago, truman47 said:

undo the drain plug and then the tube thats inside and replace with the exact same volume

This is a workaround to the recommended procedure. As per my post on 23rd September, I did my ATF change with the engine and transmission cold and recorded volumes fairly accurately. Remember you are fooling around with a $4,000 transmission so you need to get the volume measurements right. 

I am thinking about adding an inline transmission filter to the oil lines at a later stage. My post on 22nd September has the attachment for the oil line locations. I have bought these filters on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-Filter-For-Civic-Accord-Fit-CR-Z-Insight-CR-V-Eleme/322576972618?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 

I also have this filter in my watchlist http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/All-New-In-Line-Screened-Turbo-Oil-Filter-AN-6-Fitting-Keep-your-Turbo-going/170978105891?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

 

 

 

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5 hours ago, ZZT86 said:

That's got to be a good thing right ?

The problem with inline filters is, how would you know when to replace ?

One thing comes to mind is transmission acting up ?? Maybe ??

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I reckon it can't hurt, has dual capture method & maintains fluid pressure - it can only be a good thing prolonging transmission life. The rec change intervals are what ever they rec or sooner, it's easy to do if conveniently placed & cheap. Perhaps twice every fluid change or once a year.

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25 minutes ago, ZZT86 said:

I reckon it can't hurt, has dual capture method & maintains fluid pressure - it can only be a good thing prolonging transmission life. The rec change intervals are what ever they rec or sooner, it's easy to do if conveniently placed & cheap. Perhaps twice every fluid change or once a year.

Can't argue with that. This is why I love being on this forum. 

Thanks

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On 9/20/2017 at 3:52 PM, campbeam said:

I ended up using a variety of small/compact 10mm ring and open end spanners to loosen and then undo this bolt. Quite frustrating because you can only rotate the head of the bolt a small amount at a time.

 Ok, you need to tell me exactly which small/compact 10mm ring you are talking about because I just can't open it...

I think we should have a proper workaround for that bolt, maybe there is a special key which can get through easy.

From the drain plug I could only get 1.6L, 

Edited by krigeroz
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I hope that you have previously seen and read this attached document relating to removal of the transmission pan.

U660E Transmission Filter Replacement.doc

Even with the engine mount loosened and the engine raised, space is limited. I constantly check [using a rachet as a guide]  that I am loosening the bolt not tightening it especially when working upside down, twisted around etc.

 

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