AdBlock Warning

Parts of this website do not function properly with AdBlock enabled on your device. To get the best user experience on our website, please disable Adblock for this website (domain) on your browser.


Recommended Posts

Hi, I just bought a 2000 Toyota Celica ZR, and noticed that it has a bouncy tacho, the previous owner installed a shift light which may have something to do with it, I have taken out the shift light but the problem is still there. What else can cause a bouncy tacho and what can I do to fix it. Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Does it run well otherwise, or does it run like rubbish?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd be double checking all wiring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

    • By yt1300
      My Rav4 has developed a problem where it starts, then immediately shuts off. Once it's done this, if I try cranking it again without turning the key back to the fully off position, it turns over, but never tries to fire. However, if I turn the key back to the off position, then try again, it will start just fine, but still immediately shut off. It also won't start even if I give it a little gas while trying to start it (unlike some other descriptions of similar problems that I have read). Also, when it starts, it sounds like a good clean start, it just won't idle afterwords.

      It did this once about a year ago, exactly like what I am describing, then half an hour later, it started fine and this hasn't happened again until a few days ago. When it happened again, it wouldn't start, then a a while later is started just fine. It also started fine the next few times I tried to start it, but it would occasionally do this (stop working, then magically start working later). Now it does it every time and I cannot get the engine to stay on. So this is something that progressively went out over the last week or so.
      Someone on Rav4World suggested that it might be the ignition switch and very kindly told me the pattern of continuity that I should see if the switch worked vs if it was bad (see attached picture). There does seem to be an issue with my switch, because I have no continuity between 2-3 when the switch is in the Acc or On position (and I should). However, that does not appear to be the source of the current problem. The correct continuity pattern for the car when running should be 2-3, 2-4, and 6-7 (see attached figure). The engine starts via a connection from 7-8.
      Therefore, to bypass the switch, I took the female end  of the plug that connects to the ignition switch, unhooked from the switch, and ran a wire from 2-3, from 2-4, and from 6-7 (thus creating the connectivity for the On position). Then, I hooked the battery back up and quickly touched a wire from 7-8. The car started, but it immediately shut back off, just like before. Further, one of the oddities about this problem is that once the engine shuts off, I have to turn they key back to the off position before it will fire again (otherwise it just keeps turning over but never firing). So, while I had the wires rigged up I played with this. As expected, if I connect 7-8 getting it to fire and stall, then immediately reconnect 7-8, it turns over, but doesn't fire (just like trying to turn the key again without first going to the off position). I tried to figure out which circuit needed to be broken for it to reset and let the engine fire again, and its the 6-7 connection. If I start/stall it then unplug and replug 2-3 or 2-4 and try it again, it turns over, but won't fire. However, if I unplug and replug 6-7 and try again, it starts then quits (just like if I had turned the key to off, then tried again).

      This makes me think that whatever is wrong is on the circuit for 6-7. Does anyone know what is on that circuit that could cause this?

      Just for reference, here are some other things I've tried:
      Checked spark plugs and wires (they were replaced fairly recently, and all seem to be in good shape, correctly gauged, etc.)
      Checked for vacuum leaks (I did this one of the times that I got it running).
      Cleaned the throttle body and idle air control valve
      Replaced the fuel filter
      Tried starting it with the MAP sensor disconnected (98's don't have an MAF)
      Tried starting it with the green coolant temperature sensor disconnected (it really didn't like that at all).

      Note: this is a cross post from Rav4World, and everything there has been and is continuing to be very helpful, but so far no solutions have emerged, so I thought I'd expand the collective brain pool a bit.

      Thanks
       
       


      I'm at my wits end here, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

    • By Bobman
      G'day,
      Just picked up an Avalon MkIII GXi. I own 4 Fords, but worked around Avalons 2001-2006 at a taxi depot, so always had a soft spot for them etc.
      Have an interesting starting issue with a workaround I found.

      Has anyone ever heard of issues with the ignition switch on these? Igniter? Crank angle sensor? Knock sensors?

      It has had aftermarket keys for 5 years now. The light goes off instantly upon insertion indicating it has been programmed as a master.

      Now, it will just crank endlessly often. The workaround is to leave the ignition 'ON' for 5 minutes and then it starts no worries until the next time. Any ideas?
    • By Simon2012
      I recently built a battery box for the back of my 2012 Kluger kxr.  It has a projecta Dc-Dc charger which needs an ignition signal to tell it when the car is running for the best charging.  Does anyone know the best (easiest) place to pull an ignition signal from?
    • By Myxalplyx
      Hello all,
         I need your help with some info.  Those of you that have the TRD Supercharged Aurions, can you please tell me two things?  ...
      1)  What are your air/fuel ratios above 5000rpm to redline?  and
      2)  What is your ignition advance from 5000rpm to redline?   

      Any help with this information would be very helpful.  Thanks in advance.  
    • By toycam88
      DOING my head in.  I have had a 92 sedan and now the 91 wagon do exactly the same thing!  Yet my 88 sedan manual I have owned for over 20yrs has NEVER done it.
      Nor a 89 wagon also series one auto I had prior to these later models.
      The problem is VERY specific to certain things. 
      1. ONLY at operating temp (middle of guage)  2. ONLY on deceleration (touch the gas or the brake it stops) 3. ONLY at Speed range 60km to 50kmph or 1000 rpm or less. 
      Its a surge, and its lunges the car back and forth. Both are autos. SO its something they added /changed in the series twos . 1990 - 1992
      I will try to attach a video if allowed.  We have changed only the coolant temp sensor and cleaned the throttle body.  has anyone else had this and fixed it? 
      Two camrys both doing it a coincidence ? I think its more common..and hope someone has the answer.  Thanks so much in advance.  
       
      VIDEO0522.mp4
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.