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  1. Yesterday
  2. Hi, i have a 94 Toyota Hilux ln86 2wd ute with the 2.8l diesel naturally aspirated and the engine shakes on idle. it runs great and has heaps of power while driving. When you go to start and stop the engine, the exhaust pipe hits the chassis rail and will eventual over time crack the exhaust. i have put new engine and gearbox mounts (genuine Toyota) in the vehicle but it still does it. the engine idle is set to 700rpm. I have even tried putting rubber mounts on top of the engine with support bars to try and stop the exhaust hitting but it doesn't help. The engine only has 150,000kms on it, doesn't burn/leak oil or use coolant. The fuel primer pump has been replaced thinking it might be sucking air but it wasn't (it holds pressure). Also put new glow plugs in it. It doesn't matter if the engine is hot or cold, it still does it. If anyone has had this problem or knows what it might be, that would be great. Thanks, Ryan.
  3. Last week
  4. Hi all Im hoping somebody can enlighten me,i got out of my cruiser yesterday and the doors locked on me,luckily my son was inside to let me in.Got home turned the ignition off,my rear wiper kept running intermittently,lights also on dash.if i disconnect and then reconnect the battery all appears normal for a few seconds then the doors lock,the wiper starts and the dash lights come on Regards Rob
  5. So I think I have an 88 hilux that came with a 3y. Someone has put a 4y in and a g52 gearbox from a 4runner. they also changed the instrument cluster to some sort of 94 hilux. Now as my original ute had a cable speedo but the updated ute has an electronic speedo sensor/vss screwed in and an electronic speedo dash/instrument cluster i had no wiring harness to connect them. found the wiring diagram for the vss and tapped into 12v, ground, and i ran a wire to the back of the speedo in the dash to the screw that says "s" on it. now it is working, however it is showing the wrong speed by about ten klicks an hr at 60 and 20 klicks at 120. im guessing I have the wrong cog in the gearbox for the cluster that is in it. I have 19 plastic cogs on my wheel and I read somewhere that 21 is normal for Toyotas? does anyone know if this is true and what I need to buy. cheers
  6. Appreciate the sharing of your personal experience and particularly noted that you are intending to revert back to stock standard.
  7. Greetings all, My 2005 Corolla has been going great for the past 14 years with only a few things needing work every now and then. It currently has 216,152 km on the clock. Yesterday, while driving back out of town, it suddenly started making a rattling noise while accelerating (mainly when it goes over 3,000 R.P.M.) Nothing leading up to this - it just started up out of the blue without warning. I'm wondering if anyone here has already come across this problem and knows what it is. I haven't had any experience with the VVT-i engines, so it's new territory for me. I would think if it were something loose or out of adjustment in the valve train, it would be coughing and farting and misfiring (or simply not running at all). As I drove it back after the sound started up, it was still running well, still had power, and could sit comfortably on 100km. No overheating, no warning lights on, nothing. There looks like there's a small oil leak around the rear of the R/H side of the engine, but it hasn't been using up oil. All the posts I found on the internet suggested anything from loose heat shields, to something broken in either the inlet or exhaust manifolds. The only other thing I could think of was the timing chain - whether they might have some sort of tensioner arm on them or something that might be coming loose, or could the chain itself be stretched ? If that was the case though, I would have thought that would also affect the timing and make it run badly ?) As far as trouble shooting goes, I've only tried locating the sound with a stethoscope, but the noise can't be pinned down to any specific area. So at the moment, I'm leaning towards: a.) Taking the serpentine belt off and running the engine for less than a minute just to see if it might be a bearing in something that runs off the serpentine belt rather than something inside the engine (doubtful). b.) Taking the valve cover off, to see if there's anything obvious with the OHC or the valves. Not sure if the timing chain would also be visible, or if that's another cover somewhere else. Before I start doing any of these things though, I thought I'd first post a video link here, and see if any of you might recognize the sound as something that you've dealt with first-hand. And what suggestions you might have. Apologies for the shaky video. Regards, R.
  8. The Aurion is already quite the fire cracker so I'd be inclined not to touch it either 😉
  9. I found the information I was looking for, the 97-99 ST204 Celica uses the same Alpine alarm used by the BMW E23 so I tried the instructions for that and it worked with an extra step, so if anybody else needs this info here it is My remote is P/N 08191-00900 1. Close all doors, trunk, and hood. 2. The security system must be in "disarm" mode. The key must be removed from the ignition key slot. Enter Code-Learning Mode 3. Open the trunk and leave it open. 4. Open the driver's door and sit in the driver's seat. 5. Close the driver's door. 6. Cycle the ignition switch five times between the "off" position and position 2 (ignition "ON", all dash warning lamps will illuminate). The red status LED will illuminate continuously, and the siren will "chirp" once, to indicate that the code-learning mode has been initiated. DO NOT START THE ENGINE The ignition switch cycling in step #6 must be performed within ten seconds. The sequence in steps #1-6 must be performed within 45 seconds. Registering/Delete ID Code(s) 7. Open driver's door, (remain seated in driver's seat) 8. Close driver's door. An extra step is required here for the Celica- Cycle the key once more 9. Press and release any button on the remote you wish to register into the system. The status LED will shut off momentarily to indicate that one ID code has been registered. 10. Repeat steps 7 through 9 to register the remaining three ID codes. Exiting Code-Learning Mode 11. Open driver's door, and exit from vehicle, leaving the door opened. 12. Close trunk. 13. Close driver's door. The LED will turn off and the siren will "chirp" twice. 14. The initialization procedure is now completed, test all remotes to confirm operation
  10. Well, good news folks. I received the additional parts last week and put it all back together. And after doing about 1200 miles over the last week, fifth gear is running just fine. Problem fixed in same way as 4.1 and 4.2 models, but the culprit was likely a less than $5 spring, rather than 5th gear and the collar. I believe the synchro spring was likely the only problem, but I essentially replaced all the synchro parts, the case, 5th gear, and the sleeve to hopefully ensure another 10 years of happy motoring! Cheers, Dan
  11. Hi there I'm a new member - Hope nobody minds but I just joined so that I could make this post. I have a Gregory's manual for an AE92 Series ('89-'92) Corolla which is now sitting here doing nothing since I no longer have the car. If there is an owner of an AE92 out there in the Perth area who maintains his/her own car and would like it, you are welcome to it. Cheers Bwyan
  12. Mr H

    RAV4 5th Generation

    Hi Jared, sounds like your rattle is in a different spot, hers was on passenger side, just off centre. All fixed now, dealer had car for nearly 3 weeks while parts arrived from Sydney, they removed the dash in its entirety, and found 3 broken felt clips, ordered a full set of clips, but only 3 arrived so had to re-order, hence the wait, they went over the top and added more foam to each clip, problem solved. She was given a current model Petrol Camry, which she was not impressed with, she said it had poor acceleration, and could not get the seat adjusted to make it comfortable for her, giving her a sore back and shoulders, dealer swapped it with current RAV4 Edge(petrol); which was similar to the Camry in performance, she is so glad to have hybrid back...rattle free!
  13. Hi, Has anyone on here replace a window regulator and motor in their sportivo? Is the part the same as corolla zze122 model?
  14. Nice update coming for this month, very picture heavy! So in the coming weeks before Toyotafest, Alec had got his hands on a mint condition OEM 6 speed gear knob which I was able to get with a trade, trading him my Super Pro end links as he needed some new ones for the air bag setup on his car before Toyotafest. Luckily they fit, just and he was able to get the car going with them. If you look through all my old interior photo's, my OEM gear knob is quite worn down and I didn't want for fork out the $350 for a new gear knob, and now that these specific gear knobs are discontinued they'll be a lot harder to find. It's nice to see that reverse is red instead of the faded and dirty black mine has always been. I tend to only run this one when I go to shows to hopefully keep it in top condition. So as noted in my last post, I had organised a detailer for Toyotafest. Since I hadn't done much in the years before other than give it a wash a best as I could and with the paint slowly turning for the worst I thought it was time to give it some love. A massive thank you to Arnoub at Turn Heads Detailing who was an absolute pleasure to deal with, answered all of my questions and was extremely reasonably priced for the work that was completed. Another massive thank you goes out to partner who happily drove me to drop off and pick up my car, without her I would've basically been stuck with walking and catching a train to and from. The car was washed using snow foam, clay barred (found the paint was medium to heavily contaminated), swirl remover and gloss enhancer applied before being waxed all round and tire gel applied. Arnoub was also able to perform a headlight restoration which was much needed as the lights had faded and gone yellow fairly badly in the last few months. After leaving the car with Arnoub for a day, I went to pick up the car and was welcomed with this. I honestly couldn't keep my eyes of it. It's honestly the best it has looked since I've bought it. Now it'll be an absolute breeze to wash until the treatment will need to be re-applied in the near future. Below are the photo's taken by Arnoub of the car and the products used. The only major flaw now is some orange peel effect which doesn't bother me as it's in small patches on different panels. After driving back home, I took a photo before the end of the night and before it would get moisture before Toyotafest. The morning of Toyotafest had arrived, and as like previous years I was up bright and early ready to clean the car before heading off to a meeting point to meetup with Alec and first time Toyotafest goer Blake. Sadly I didn't get a photo of Blake's Sportivo at the meet point since we needed to get to Castle Hill Toyota but we luckily got placed together unlike last year, albeit with a pillar separating my Sportivo from Alec and Blake's cars. Toymods yet again organised a great day out, unlike last year the day felt like it went quite fast for me as we were all a lot more prepared with food, drinks and chairs and caught up with a few mates and spent plenty of time at the trade stands. Once 3pm came, there was the mad charge to leave the venue so we all waited for most of the first leavers to head off before we left the venue for the day. Before day was finished, I headed to an industrial area to take some shots while the car was looking it's best. Well, that's basically it for this month. I've got some plans ahead for the remainder of the year which I will hopefully get done before the start of 2020. As normal, I will keep the thread updated. Stay tuned.
  15. Just bought a 5th gen and the right hand headlight is stuck in the closed position. How do I release it. Cheers Gaz
  16. Got this mod done and all that achieves it changes torque curve where you get more on lower revs. Not something that 99.9% of front wheel drive owners would find an improvement. Toyota have designed the exhaust and mapped ECU to give minimum torque steer and very linear power delivery throughout the whole rev range, so modifying is a waste of time and money. In the next week or two I will weld the old OEM Y section back because with it drivebility was far more satisfying. Don't temper with perfection, but each to their own.
  17. Well, finally my local is now accepting deposits/pre-orders, which means they have the product disclosure/spec sheets!!
  18. Have you swapped out the headlight relay to see if that fixes the problem ?
  19. Since we first arrived in in the late 1950s, we've been there to provide a helping hand to the pioneers, the explorers and the curious Australians who have ...
  20. JRI

    RAV4 5th Generation

    Mine has the same thing , i normally rest my knee against it to make it go away. Should be an easy fix.
  21. Toyota Genuine LED Light Bar is designed to provide broader spread of illumination to the sides of the road to give greater visibility during night-time and off ...
  22. FYI the Altezza RS200 3SGE is the blacktop BEAMS not the redtop (and is designed for RWD layout). The redtop BEAMS (which only has single-VVTi rather than the blacktop's dual-VVTi) is the correct transverse layout and came mainly in the ST202 Celica and SW20 MR2 (but not all models)
  23. Hey there, never posted on this forum before, mostly talked about 3s things with other owners I know in person. I own a '90 GT-Four with about 160k on the clock, been saving for a while and I've been considering building/swapping a new motor. already have had major suspension work done and minor motor work as well, mostly the head and turbo, and on the tune she's about 210ish KW at the wheels. I'm debating whether or not to swap a 6th gen 3S-GTE in from a 205 if I can find a decent condition one, but I was wondering how difficult it would be to convert the famed '97-05 black top Beams 3S-GE from the Altezza RS200 to a GTE (obviously with minor work and a tune)? Quite specific I know, but was curious if anyone has had any experience with this sort of thing before? Alternatively, I've seen quite a few people suggest I go with a sort of Frankenstein mix of a 3S and 5S to make a 2.1L, I believe that's with the head of a 3S and the block of a 5S? Any input/opinions would be appreciated -Justin
  24. I have lost all instrumentation on the dash. No std warning lights come on at key turn. Clock comes on so we have power ! Security ( imob ) light goes off. Cranks well , but no start. We did pressure wash it before parting it up for a while. Any suggestions Doctor ?
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