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  3. Hey All, I'd like to show you all my 2nd corolla ae112 csx that i've owned after my first one met its end with a power pole... After having no car for 7 months due to loosing my license from the accident, I went on the search and started looking for something reliable, modern car features, economically friendly and i came across another ae112 csx corolla & couldn't resist After looking at the car the following day, deposit was made Details of car is as follows 1999 csx Toyota corolla Only 2 previous owners, me being the 3rd 140,xxxkms 5 Speed Manual Comes with all the standard features that the csx came with that includes (Disc brakes all round, power windows, ect) but it also came with a Sunroof!! Modifications already done to the car from previous owner/ Myself Engine Custom CAI 2.25" exhaust from manifold back leading too blast pipes Interior Alpine Sound system (including tweeters, front speakers, rear speakers and 12" sub in boot) Trd Seat covers (from my previous car...) Jasma Short shifter Exterior De badged rear end Black Front grill 120 Narvara driving headlights White LED Rear number plate lights 4% window tint Wheels Rota grids 16x8+10 with 195/45/16 chinese tyres (will be replaced with ku31s) Front has -1.5 camber Rear has -2.5 camber Suspension Coilovers 8kgs fronts, 6kgs Rear 22mm Whiteline rear swaybay New bushes throughout the rear of the car Whiteline F&R camber bolts Bad points of the car - Paint on the bonnet, roof, side mirrors and tail gate is pretty bad, but hopeing to rectify this once i recoup from some bills - Car is quite a tad low for my liking so hopeing too raise it in the coming days and also get the guards rolled as well.. I'am quite happy with how the car is at the moment and don't plan on doing that much too it until i get my blacks, apart from tidying up the bad points of the car.. Future plans - Ultra Racing strut brace - Replace the bushes in the front end
  4. Hello I would like to introduce myself my name is jay & I own a 1984 Celica RA65 XT. When I purchased this car in 2012 it was a beautiful running good condition vehicle with the dream of turning into a drift car. So hear we are in 2017 & my beautiful car is not so good. So the story goes like this. I am self employed with an extremely low income with a family, so money is tight most of the time so we make do with what we've got. Lets just say building a drift car is going to take some time. So back to the car, all was going well, I was keeping the car in good condition starting & running it every couple of weeks so i decided to star on the turbo convertion. I already had a turbo I purchased for a previous project that was scraped so I built myself a custom turbo manifold & put the turbo on th 22re, plumbed it all in with an intercooler & there you go one turbo 22re Celica happy days & then one day I went to start it up & no go. So is started to look at the obvious things(air, fuel, spark). I found there was no fuel & no spark. So I call an auto elec & got him to look at fixing the problem but he had no idea what was wrong with my car, I was deverstated all that work to put a turbo on my car had it running & then just would start. Well I wasn't going to stop there I was determined to get this car running again so I diced to remove all the problem parts & get all new ones. So I got some 3sgte fuel injectors, a megasquirt 2 ecu & wiring harness with a trigger wheel & Hall effect sensor to see if we could get the 22re pos running. But after 2 years of tryng to get that engine running again & having owned the car for 5 years I made an excecutive decition & romoved the 22re engine & w55 gearbox to try something new. So after watching an episode of mighty car mods (10 second sleeper) I spoke to my best mate & asked him what he was doing with the old Ford EB XR6 manual he had sitting in his back yard & explained what I wanted to do so he told me its mine. So this is where the story gets real interesting I now have a 1997 Ford EL engine bolted to a1991 EB XR6 5 speed sitting in the front of my Celica. This project has just started so I thought I would invite you take a look & follow me as the progress continues. THANKS HUNGNS35
  5. Hey guys, just wondering if use can help me out, I had a hit and run on me last week. And I need a rear bumber bar for my 2005 carmy sportivo? If you guys can help me out, it will be highly appreciated. Thank you.
  6. Last week
  7. Had a similar one, after a while the screen would flicker and degrade. Ended up getting one of these and haven't had a issue. I have a Aurion 06 Sportivo ZR6, and it fit straight in, plug n play. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-1-Android-9-0-Quad-Core-Car-Media-Player-GPS-For-Toyota-Camry-Aurion/123846883242?hash=item1cd5d977aa:g:mAwAAOSwKLVdNub7
  8. I made a post about headunits and I've since come across these eBay headunits. They fit great and look factory which I much prefer. Being generic and not a brand name unit I'm just wanting to see if anyone has had any bad experiences using these. Unit in question Cheers!
  9. Hi Daniel same deal here as Virgil, except I went with a Clarion Head Unit so it used the original camera in back and all controls on steering wheel operate as per specs..I went with Monster Car Audio up here on the coast for the purchase and install I found them very good too deal with and a full professional install was done with proper shroud used to have that clean fit..I am sure they will be around your area in melbourne..If you wish I have a Picture on my profile page you can check it out, Good Luck and stay safe KAA
  10. No photos unfortunately, I ordered a silver radio shroud with the head unit so it's a tidy fit in dash, they used the original camera which looks and works great and the steering wheel controls work as per original. Well worth the upgrade for me.
  11. I totally agree with the "two answers". Your mileage with those two conditions is right around the ballpark. I have been getting constant 13.5 though with 75-25 City/Highway driving. I was in Melbourne last week and did a 750 km run with one full tank (I use only CALTEX 91 ULP) and ended with a 8.0 l/100kms. Five passengers and a full loaded trunk. I did change one thing in the recent past and now my city driving also gives me 12.5-12.8 l/100kms. My dealer has started using RAPSOL (sounds like a medicine) instead of Valvoline. I am not sure if this is to blame for the increase in mileage. Overall, I am happy with my Grande 4x4. 8.0 is a great figure with a vehicle that size. Do NOT use that Ethanol garbage... It will decrease mileage for sure. Not enough energy per volume.
  12. Thanks for the reply mate! Do you have any photos of the headunit in your vehicle and of the camera on the outside? And do your steering wheel controls still work? Many thanks!
  13. I had the same dilemma, purchased Kenwood DDX4017BT from Ryda online and had it installed by PPA Car Audio - Eugine 0404 227 942. Great fuss free service, camera works a treat and head unit is more than ample for my needs.
  14. Hi all, After some suggestions for headunits with reverse cameras for a 2010 Aurion. Some photos of your own unit would be good, too! 🙂 Brownie points if anyone can recommend a reputable place in the SE suburbs of Melbourne a for a supply and fit. The headunit I can do if it has a harness or plug and play but the camera is probably out of my depth Thanks
  15. Jeffsyoung

    Jeff

    Can anyone tell me how much the 2 nd row of seats weigh on a 200 series vx landcruiser they are leather
  16. Mark Pat

    Gladiator

    I have a 2018 Camry SL with a moonroof, it’s fantastic. I am wanting to know if I can load new software to my current car radio to include apple car play ? The USA Camry can have the upgrade so was wondering if mine can as well here in Australia. If so, where is it done and how much would the upgrade cost. mark.
  17. Keith A

    keith ryan

    Hello Camrey Club an inquiry I have an Holden Apollo 1996 4 speed auto with 5S-FE Engine essentially an Camry only 80.000 k on clock and in as new condition overall , issue is has developed an engine intermittent shut down problem have spent time and money on engine diagnosis read-outs this is the model still with a distributor with single ignition coil and factory (Aust) immobilizer system I would like to make contact /advice from someone with experience with these old engine management and security systems there are still a lot of these cars on the road any advice would be appreciated .. regards
  18. Hey there guys, I have a corollas ascent sport 2016 model, ZRE182. I’m wondering if anyone tried to replace their OEM seats for aftermarket bucket seats before? If so what are the rails patterns. Really keen on putting a pair into my slow boi. Thank you guys!
  19. my 2004 camry park brake is a single 360` shoe, how do you replace it.
  20. The 2GR-FE engine is very reliable however it needs to be regularly serviced with quality oils to avoid oil sludge. White smoke on start up is a symptom of oil sludge build up affecting oil circulation in the valve cover and oil via the pcv valve getting into the air intake.I bought my 2006 Aurion with 160k and a 2009 Aurion with 108k with this oil sludge/white smoke issue. There are also 2 known weaknesses with oil hoses with earlier models. The rear VVTi oil line had a rubber mid section. Eventually it develops a pinhole leak which causes obvious oil loss. I replaced this oil line with the full metal version and this job was quite frustrating for me. Quite separately are the oil cooler lines which have rubber hoses and when they leak results in immediate and total oil loss. Toyota Australia will replace these oil cooler lines when they leak at their expense. Replacement part is all metal.. Recently, at 208k, I have replaced the alternator. It is not a simple task. Before that, I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils. Again, another time consuming task removing various vehicle components to access the rear spark plugs. Another absolute must is the regular servicing of the automatic transmission. After lots of internet research, the ATF in these sealed for life transmissions should be replaced after 100k miles / 160k kms. At 165k, I replaced the automatic transmission filter/strainer and cleaned off the sludge build up on the transmission pan. Another frustrating job because of 1 bolt on the transmission pan that is difficult to access because of the vehicle sub-frame. Something else on my to do list is the replacement of the fuel filter. Rear seat needs to be removed for access. Absolutely love my Toyota Aurion and why I bought a standby 2008 Aurion, The driving pleasure more than makes up for the very occassional DIY weekend jobs.
  21. Hey guys! I was looking at picking up an Aurion as a cheap runabout. My brother has one and it's been a very reliable car but he's only clocked 130k on it. As I was looking at some cheaper examples on gumtree, between the 200k-300k mark and was wondering what you guys have experienced with these cars in that mileage range. They tend to only cost between $4000-$6000. Doing my research I understand the GR motors on the Aurion's and Lexus's are very very reliable. The only thing I have found to go bad on more than one occasion is the water pump, which is a $1000 job because of the labour involved and where it is placed. My brothers also developed the famous 'Toyota death rattle' on cold starts, which I assume earned its name for a reason, but his car still runs every single day with the death rattle and has done for over a year. Any info you could give me on your own cars and experience with the higher mileage would be awesome. Thanks guys
  22. Before I start, I DO NOT take any responsibility for any damage you might cause to your car. If you’re careful and you double check everything, you should be fine! I did this in a 40 series Aurion, so I honestly have no idea for 50 series and others. I’m sure it would be similar, but it would be best to find a workshop manual for your car to be certain on the wiring. All 40 series wiring should be identical, but it’s best to ALWAYS double check first. Alrighty! Let’s get started. I’ve recently installed paddle shifters in my 08 TRD Aurion and I know some people are interested in doing this too, so I’ll try my best to explain and show how it was done. I took photos whenever I remembered, so hopefully it’ll be good enough! I started out with buying a 50 series Sportivo steering wheel, with the stock paddles attached. Originally, I was going to just do a whole steering wheel swap over, though the plugs on the clockspring didn’t match up with the 40 series, so I decided to just remove the paddle shifters. They only consist of 3 wires.. Shift up, Shift down, and a common wire. If you have a Multimeter of some sort, then it’s best to check continuity on the paddles between Shift up and common, and then Shift down and the common, just to be 100% sure you’re using the correct wires and you’re not going to create a short circuit when you pull the paddle. It was also useful to have the whole steering wheel with pins that I didn’t need so I was able to use them on the clockspring plugs for the wiring I added. Otherwise you may have to track some down from a wrecker or look online to buy the pins. The first step was to disconnect the battery so I was sure not to short out anything. Then I removed the centre console and found the plug at the rear of the gear shifter. There is a white 8 pin plug located at the rear, fairly easy to access. After looking through the Aurion workshop manual, I eventually found the wiring diagram of the pin layout for the plug. I believe that the same wiring can be accessed under the dash somewhere, though I wasn’t sure where it was and found it easiest at the plug under the centre console. Pin 1 – Shift Down (Blue with silver stripes) Pin 2 – Shift Up (Dark green with silver stripes) Pin 5 – Common (White with Black line) With the battery still disconnected, I cut each wire and then crimped them back together using a female bullet lug (this also gave me a good spot to test for continuity between the wires, along with giving me somewhere easy to plug in the wiring I needed to add for the paddles). I then plugged the shifter plug back into the back of the shifter and used my Multimeter to check for continuity between Pin 1 & 5 when the shifter was pulled Down in ‘S’ Mode, and then between Pin 2 & 5 when the shifter was pushed up in ‘S’ Mode. I then crimped on some male bullet lugs onto a 3 core cable (it doesn’t really matter what cable you use.. Just make sure you remember which core is which!), plugged them into the female bullet lugs and then ran the cable through the back of the centre console and up underneath the steering wheel. Using some of the spare pins on the steering wheel I had bought, I soldered these onto the cable I had ran to the steering wheel. At this point I taped up each core individually and just left them under the dash for a bit and moved onto preparing the steering wheel. Steering wheel removal: PLEASE BE SURE YOU HAVE SOMEWHAT OF AN IDEA ON HOW TO REMOVE THE STEERING WHEEL! PLAYING WITH AN AIRBAG CAN ALWAYS BE A BIT DANGEROUS. BE SURE TO LEAVE YOUR BATTERY DISCONNECTED FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES BEFORE REMOVING FOR SAFE MEASURE. Underneath the steering wheel on either side, are little plastic covers. Remove these to show a Torx screw head (size T-30 I believe). They probably won’t completely come out as they’re locked in the steering wheel plastic. Though once they’re undone, the airbag should just pull out. Carefully remove the 2 plugs by pulling up the yellow tabs with a small flat head screwdriver. Before completely removing the steering wheel, REMEMBER the position of it! You definitely don’t want to put it back on in the wrong spot. The centre bolt is a 19mm if I remember correctly. LOOSEN IT BUT DO NOT COMPLETELY REMOVE IT JUST YET. Pulling the steering wheel free from the shaft can be fairly tough.. But it’ll eventually come free after a lot of yanking at it and you’ll be happy you didn’t completely remove the 19mm nut as the steering wheel will most likely come off with a lot of force. Once it’s loose you’re free to remove the 19mm nut, unplug all the plugs and feed them through the back of the steering wheel. At this point I removed the plastic backing of the steering wheel and then put it back on the car so I was able to still drive it while I waited for the paddle extensions to arrive and also give me time to modify and paint the paddle shifters. Probably took about 2 weeks to have it how I wanted it as I really only had the weekends. So once I had the plastic cover off, I just made the shifters sit as flat as I could to avoid them hitting any of the stalks (Headlights, wipers, cruise control). It really depends what paddle shifters you try to use.. Though to attach 50 series paddles, I removed one side of the plastic cover that holds the printed circuit board for the shifters, drilled small holes through the steering wheel cover, and then just used the existing screws that held the PCB cover together, to mount them onto the steering wheel cover (I think that all makes sense..). I also drilled holes to feed the wiring inside the cover. It might look a little dodgy, but once it's all back together you can't see anything. Once I had the paddles cut down, painted, and attached to the extensions, I had to once again remove the steering wheel. This time around I had to remove the clockspring from behind the steering wheel. I didn’t get any photo’s at all of this, though there’s just a few little plastic clips holding it in place. I’m sure there are some videos or other forums out there that have a more detailed explanation on how to remove it. Be careful not to go spinning the clockspring around as it only has limited amount of turns in either direction as there’s a ribbon cable inside. On the steering wheel side of the clockspring there are 2 plugs, a white 10 pin plug and a white 4 pin plug. On the dash side of the clockspring there is a black 12 pin plug. In the dodgy photo I’ve made up, you can see what pins I found that had continuity through the clockspring.. Pin 3 from the steering wheel side matched up with Pin 4 on the dash side. Pin 4 from the steering wheel side matched up with Pin 3 on the dash side. Pin 2 on the smaller plug matched up with Pin 1 on the dash side. You can decide which pin order you'll use as it really doesn't matter. You just need to have Shift up, Shift down, and the common wire matching up on either side. I’m sure it’s not going to change from car to car.. But PLEASE double check this with a Multimeter just so you’re 100% sure it’s going to match up. Remember that this is all on the clockspring, the photos just show the plugs, I just didn’t take any photos of the actual clockspring. Once I was confident with all this, I put the clockspring back in the car, attached the steering wheel plastic cover back onto the steering wheel, plugged the wires from the paddle shifters into the spare pins shown in the photo above and then plugged the 3 cores from the dash side that were ran up from the shifter which I mentioned earlier, into the spare plugs on the 12 pin black plug. BE SURE THAT YOU’RE CONNECTING THE CORRECT WIRES ON EITHER SIDE! Then from there it was just plugging everything back in, bolting the steering wheel on, plugging the airbag in and tightening up the screws to hold it on, reconnecting the battery.. And I think that’s pretty much it! Now you should have working paddle shifters! Overall it wasn’t too difficult, it just took a bit of time working things out and setting it out the way I wanted it. If you’re going to give this a go, just take your time and take a bit of care! I apologize if I'm a bit slow to reply, but I'll try to answer all questions if there are any. Goodluck!
  23. Best to refer to your owner's manual. I also do a Google search using oil manufacturer + lube guide e.g. https://www.datateck.com.au/Lube/PenriteAus/ http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/NulonAus/ I prefer to use oils with the latest oil specifications of API-SN and ILSAC GF-5
  24. Earlier
  25. Please tell me, I have got Kluger 2004 and display screen is hanged!!
  26. needs a regas? Cabin air filter might be worth changing too
  27. I have a Landcruiser 200 series V8 twin turbo diesel. I have had this same problem a couple of times. I set the trip meter at the neutral mark I. E. No numbers and turned off the car. Came back a few minutes later and turned on, and presto the lights had gone off. The trip meter set itself back to the mileage setting and not where it was when it was turned off.
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