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  3. DuncanScott


    Hi, Recently joined, and looking to tidy up my '92 Hi-Lux Extra Cab, the interior is o,k but getting worn, torn, and grubby, any ideas on where i can go to get new, reasonable used interior, My ute came with clear rear light lens covers, one has been scuffed in carpark and needs replacing, happy to buy matching pair, Thanks Duncan
  4. DuncanScott


  5. HOTPIG175

    2002 Camry Wagon weird temperatures

    Thanks Ashley. I'll take a look at the colour, and let you know what I find. I appreciate your response. Cheers, Andy
  6. Yesterday
  7. Beigeute


    Les, Mighty hard to come by. I'm on my second one that I got from the wreckers which was even so in rather poor condition. Just recently I've had to get the panel beater to patch it up but eventually I might have to make up a wooden one.
  8. Beigeute

    4 to 5 speed gearbox swap ln46r "L" 2.2l diesel

    Shane, I'm not sure if you still are wanting to know as my reply is late. You probably already know that a Celica 5 speed gearbox fits directly into the LN40 Hilux. I think there are two types of Celica gearboxes, a steel one and an aluminium one but I'm told that only one type fits. I can find out which one if you like. Ever since I purchased my Hilux in 1983, I immediately put a reconditioned Celica gearbox into my ute. To be honest, over the years I've had quite a few troubles. What happens eventually is it jumps out of 5th gear. I've solved the problem by getting one from the wreckers but I'm told that in Brisbane there is a gearbox specialist who is able to recondition the boxes instead of getting one from the wreckers. There is no doubt that it sure needs that extra gear. If there were a 6 speed box available, that would be even better.
  9. Afer looking at this YouTube video, I would be considering more of the braking technology aids e.g. emergency brake assist. Good reminder to go check my vehicle's tyre pressure particularly after a recent [not serious] mishap with rear tyres losing grip going around a corner on a wet suburban road.
  10. Last week
  11. campbeam

    2002 Camry Wagon weird temperatures

    Main thought is that the differential is in a seperate housing to the automatic transmission for this Toyota Camry series. I was used to them being combined in my previous Hondas so overlooked replacing the differential oil when I was replacing the ATF. After about 100,000kms, I finally realised this. When I changed the differential oil in my 1998 Toyota Camry, it was very black.
  12. Hi people, I've owned many, many cars, both for business and personal use, but I am unnaturally fond of the mighty Camry. The wagons. Not the V6, but the old 5S-FE 2.2, and always auto. Had a company manual wagon, and it was a noisy dog, with less than 40,000km on it, but then, I guess everyone had thrashed it. The replacement Ford Mondeo didn't even make it to 30k. Anyway, I don't get why the Camry wagon disappeared, unless it was the death of Toyota Australia. Moving right along, I bought a mint 2002 wagon in Auckland, with one minor dent behind the l/h wheel arch, after my, (admittedly faithful KJ Laser ((320,00 km)) developed clutch and suspension problems), and it is SUCH a nice car to drive. My partner has a late model RAV4, and I despise it. A 600 page owner's manual, dodgy cruise control, and kind of like driving a photocopier. I thought Camrys were supposed to be the world's most boring cars? Try a 2.4 litre RAV. If you can stay awake. Think Datsun 180B on tranquilisers, and even then, it would be the better of the two... My issue is that the last Camry had done 380,000 km, and it was a sorry neglected old beast, and finally blew a big-end while towing a tandem axle trailer up a very long hill on a very hot day, while fully loaded inside and on the trailer. Once it had cooled down, it ran again, but sounded like a biscuit-tin full of very big bolts. Still traded it for more than I paid for it. On a Mazda Tribute V6. Not my best work. 12 mpg if you were lucky. Went like a bat out of hell, though. Gone now. It just seems that the latest one, with just on 200,000 km on the clock, is down on power, not that I need masses of grunt, and it is insanely economical. It runs well, doesn't overheat, has a full service history from the previous elderly owner, but I am wondering if I should be running it on 95 octane, as opposed to the old one, which was gruntier on 91??? This is the edit: it's not overheating, but it SMELLS hot after driving in suburbia at 70 km/h, admittedly up a long and steep hill, maybe 6 km. Fans are going as they should, no apparent oil leaks. Engine is clean enough to eat off. Not losing coolant. Oil is fine. Trans fluid is fine. Temperature gauge sits on just below midway all the time, and doesn't get there quickly. Yup, there's a thermostat in it. Has new radiator and hoses, and aircon works fine. Maybe a leak from the back of the rocker cover gasket where I can't see it, and landing on the exhaust? It would be sad to bugger it up by flogging it, and, as I said I don't need masses of power, but with the old one, I was confident about passing /overtaking. Not now. It kicks down and takes off, but just seems way slower. It's fine around town, and still uses hardly any gas. Amazing. Were the later 5S-FE motors less powerful? Or are the later wagons just heavier? That happened to me with Corollas - as they got newer, they just got heavier, and no way could a 97 Corolla 1.3 OHC perform as well as an '80 thru '84 KE70 1.3 pushrod wagon. Yeah, I know, I should have bought the bigger engine. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Sorry this is so boring, but I just need to figure out if something's wrong.
  13. ben yip

    Ben Yip 's ZRE Facelift

  14. IdleLoop

    Locking a C-HR

    Not sure about the Koba, but on the standard model, two clicks locks and turns off all lights. Headlights, interior etc.
  15. HK1837

    Hilux SR5 trans problems

    Older thread but might help someone. NEVER tow in any auto Hilux without an auxiliary cooler. No ifs, no buts. I have a 2011 V6 auto SR5 dual cab. I bought a V6 as I do tow a bit, and I needed the extra power and torque of the V6 and the V6 also had the far superior A750F auto, not that awful 4spd thing fitted to diesels pre about 2013. I fitted a Wholesale Autos transmission temperature gauge the day I bought it home, it is the analogue type. These measure where the fluid exits the converter, not the pan temperature like a Scan gauge gives you. I hooked up my 300kg box trailer and before I got out the street the fluid was well over 100deg C. I took it straight back home, and took the trailer off. Then over the next week fitted a Wholesale Autos cooler to it AFTER the factory cooler. Since then when towing right the fluid never exceeds 100degC. If driving in 4x4H on sand in D it will rocket to over 130deg if you let it, but putting it in 4L it stays below 100degC. It also now has a lockup converter kit. and a Nomad valve body. I also fitted a TRD type supercharger kit to it around 100,000kM. I got the fluid changed out for Valvoline Maxlife once the supercharger was fitted. I've always babied the fluid, never let it get hot and it was at end of life, just turning brown. Around 120,000kM it did a weird 4-5 slip, so I got the pan dropped to see what was going on. There was brass shavings in the pan. I have to do a trip to South Australia and didn't have time to get the box pulled and rebuilt, so I bought a used box and transfer from a Stat write-off 2009 TRD that didn't have a towbar on it and had 120,000kM on it. Fluid looked and smelt clean and was original WS fluid so I took a gamble, only $1500. We changed it out, air tested all the clutches, flushed the TRD converter and swapped the valve bodies. Also filled with new Lubegard COMPLETE Synthetic fluid that has a far higher boil and flash point than most other available ATF fluids. So far so good, apart from the apparent slightly higher stall of the TRD converter all good so far... It looks like the original torque converter is failing in the thrust, it is the only brass in the box I believe. The converter bush is bronze. On GM TH350/400 converters they fit needle rollers for high performance applications, but the A750F converter cannot be modified in this way, so at the moment there is no solution for one of these that is being hit with in excess of 550Nm of torque. Keeping it on a pallet for a rebuild in case this TRD box starts to fail the same way. BTW, I've tried towing in D, towing a 2250kg car/float, even with the big cooler the fluid rockets to 120degC and will go higher. Dropping back to 4th it cools right back down and stays below 90degC. If I lock the converter then it goes back below 70degC. So if you are towing with a Hilux without a cooler, you are cooking fluid and will kill the transmission.
  16. Thanks mate! Appreciate it ✌️
  17. TommyLee

    D4D Hilux Turbo sounds like a siren

    I recently had this issue of the turbo making a high pitch siren noise on acceleration. We took apart the turbo and found the issue to be a broken shaft blade. Re[laced it with a new one and the sound was gone. it cost me $390(I'm in Kenya). that was a cheap fix. The job took like 4-5hours
  18. magneticpop

    Mud Tires

    Is anyone here familiar with the Nitto Mud Rappler tires? I am planning to buy a set for my 2014 Toyota Hilux SR5. Are they worth the price?
  19. magneticpop

    How do you handle tailgaters?

    I ignore them too. Don't want to waste my time getting angry at ill-mannered drivers.
  20. Kiwioo7

    RuggedX Tyres & Wheels

    not sure..trying to see if others have gone bigger wheels and tyres
  21. Another quick update. Before the new mod, achievement unlocked. Made it to this earlier last week and it only feels like yesterday I saw the same distance shown in my old Honda Prelude. Now onto the new mod, I actually forget to mention this in my previous post and actually forget I had laying around since the end of last year. After a lot of thinking and seeing my Sportivo's give enough grief when I met up with them, I finally got a short shifter. This is a custom made one, so it's not the MWR or TWM short shifter which sits quite low and has very little play in it. Seems there isn't anything that Ed can't make, with a shifter already to go in the base for a simple and easy installation at home. Funnily enough he actually reminded me I had it and that I should install so last weekend I started nice and early before it got too hot. So I took the extra time to take some rough measurements of the throw distance between 1st and 2nd gear. Sadly I didn't measure the height difference which also different between to the original shifter. So here is the original shifter throw from first to second. After I measure the throw distance, I removed the center console surround which made access a lot easier to all the bolts and shifter cables. I removed the shifter cables from the bottom and side of the mount after removing the clips and than twisting the mechanism at the front to remove the entire cable from the assembly. I than removed the 4 bolts and did have a bit of trouble getting the Speed Source base bushings out as some of them had actually stuck to the bottom of the shifter assembly. Once I got them out the base was free and I gave the area a quick clean. Safe to say the log books are definitely right about the 1st owner been female as I found about 3 bobby pins randomly around the center console area. After the clean, it was matter of doing the steps in reverse which was quite easy now that I knew what I was doing. Once the cables were all mounted, the bushing lined up and tightened down I tested the feel to make sure the gears were engaging. I was worried at first but after sending a video or two to a few mates they confirmed all was good. Gave the center console a nice clean for the normally hard to reach areas and bolted it all back down before re-measuring. As you can see, the shifter is a lot shorter as I tried to take the photo from the same height and this is now the throw distance between 1st and 2nd. After taking the measurements, I went for a drive and thankfully no issues with gear crunching or engagement and all is going well. Overall I'm quite happy with the shifter, it's not too low and the throw is not excessively short like some of the other aftermarket ones out there. I've had in almost a week now and have gotten used to it pretty quick, not used to how quick the shifts are now. I did try out the taller chrome gear knob I have shown before in some older photo's but it literally made it feel like a stock shifter again so I put the stock gear knob back on. I've got a few things planned to get done off the checklist hopefully very soon so stay tuned!
  22. magneticpop

    RuggedX Tyres & Wheels

    What type of tires are you planning to buy?
  23. Thanks for the reply Hiro! The seller is from China. It's one of those new android head units: You're right about the wiring being different if a JBL amp is in there.. they're saying it might need an interface similar to this one: I've been trying to look for references to see if the Aussie made Camry has this amplifier but no luck. I wonder if there is a way to double check without actually taking off the dashboard and looking for the amp...?
  24. Is the seller by any chance in the US? The Camry came whole range of premium sound options over there which use JBL hardware and most likely has different wiring which is why the seller is asking, I don't believe Aus-built ones had the same option (but I could be wrong).
  25. Hi everyone, I'm new here and need some help. I'm planning to buy an android audio head unit for my 2008 Toyota Camry Altise. The head unit seller is asking if I have a JBL amplifier as it will require a special harness. How do I know if the stock amplifier that came with the car is JBL? Thank you very much!
  26. KAA

    New to the Forum

    Welcome to the forum Tim KAA
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