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  1. Today
  2. I am just guessing but it sounds like fuel pump issue. If it is displaying a check engine light, then a good starting point is to use an OBD scanner to identify the error code.
  3. Looks like you are upping the protection for the family in these "interesting" times. For those that are interested in buying this cabin filter - Pre-filter with anti-bacterial agent for protection against mould and diseases - Activated carbon barrier to neutralise pollution and odours - Electrostatically charged filter media that filters out dust, pollutants & dirt down to 2.5 microns - Lasting cabin filtration https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ryco-Cabin-Air-Pollen-Filter-Microshield-RCA164MS-fits-Toyota-Aurion-3-5-GSV/152735961601?hash=item238fc5d201:g:DxAAAOSw3z5Z204A
  4. I am always researching and updating my reference material. Currently got Michelin Primacy 4 [New Generation 2018/9] on my short list but not expecting to be replacing tyres anytime in the near future. Getting back on track with this thread, I am keen to find out how well your latest tool purchase performs in removing the housing. I might even be tempted to buy one even though I have manage without so far.
  5. Hi folks, my hilux engine keeps cutting out every few hundred kms and displaying the engine management light, when I prime the fuel filter it starts up and returns to normal for another few hundred kms of driving before doing the same again, I have inspected the fuel lines they seem ok and replaced the fuel filter and housing, I have owned the car for 8 years and never had any dramas until now! Any knowledge would be greatly appreciated thanks 👍
  6. I agree. Tyres should be name brand quality. I've been using the Michelin Primacy LC tyres on my Aurion since We've owned it and I can't complain. They are very quiet and wear considerably well. If you have to pay a couple hundred more for a good set, it will be well worth it.
  7. Only way to maintain reliabilty is plenty of maintenance and regular checking under the bonnet particularly when you have an older vehicle. Oil is cheap when an engine failure or major repairs can mean scrapping your vehicle.
  8. I had this happen at a budget tyre centre. I saw the late arriving knicklehead [supposed tyre mechanic] up the torque on the rattle gun then retighten the wheel nuts. At the time I did not know enough to have a big temper tantrum when the car was squealing as I drove it off the ramps. My feeble protests at the time were waved aside. Many kms later when I got back to the girlfriend's place, I had a hard time loosening the wheel nuts. Squealing noise went away when the nuts were properly torqued to specification. Apparently overtorquing of wheel nuts can distort the wheel hubs to cause this squealing noise. A few hard earned lessons learnt that day and those budget priced China brand GOODRIDE tyres with 90% tread have since been replaced never to return. Dumb penny pinching decision at that time. Only put new quality known brand tyres on your vehicle.
  9. I remove my centre caps before the car goes in for anything. For this reason. And remove my wheels at home if its just needing new tyres.
  10. There are generally a few reasons engines burn oil. wrong oil for the purpose. worn engine damaged cylinders or rings faulty PCV valve. cheap quality oil but when assessing the cause, all must be considered Most manufacturers look toward low viscosity oil for the cars to Get better mileage, flow easier in low temperatures and because its standard across a large number of environments. But if you look at your book, you will see that there are different oils for different temps, and unless you are running in the negative temp range, 10w or 15w will suit most situations. At the other end of the scale, when you get up around the 40c deg range, as we get in Australia, the 30 weights are working at their limit, especially cheaper quality oils. 40 weights fare better in these hot environments. I use 10w or 15w oils in my petrol and diesel engines, I don't get as much oil in my catch can on my diesel as i did when I was using 5 weight oils. This would indicate, to me, that 10w is not turning to vapor as much as the 5w, and any oil that turns to vapors is going straight through the PCV valve through the engine and out the exhaust. And all engines use at least some oil, it lubricates the rings into the cylinder, its a part of the process and without it, your engine would seize pretty quick. But most drivers, and especially those who do short trips or who never get their cars up to a good high temperate (such as highway driving) would not notice this loss, as the oil is being replaced by the un-burnt fuel, water and other crap from the combustion process and it appears that the oil level never changes. In some diesels you have to watch this carefully because the oil level actually rises. How much is too much to loose? How long is a piece of string? If you have smoke coming out the back of your car, can smell burning oil, have oily plugs or have a film of oil on the tailgate. I suggest you have a problem. However if you have to add a bit of oil between oil changes, and you have none of the above, its just how it is. I have been told Rolls Royce cars burn a fair bit of oil, and that its deliberate, to increase the longevity of the engine, but never having owned one, I cannot deny or confirm. If you are concerned, try 10w or 15w, if it solves the problem, happy days, if not dig deeper. Cheers
  11. Put it this way. Had I started using Penrite from the beginning, I probably would've stuck with it. If I remember correctly, my choice for the Nulon was that it was the spec I was looking for, also being a full synthetic, It made me feel good knowing I was supporting an Australian company. I do mine every 10k, and always under never over. Sometimes it can be around 9ish or so kays and the oil looks like it will go another 5000 kays. Not that I would, I'm not stingy when it comes to maintenance. I lavish all my cars and they love me, hahahaha...
  12. I received my new Ryco cabin filter. I figured I'd get the better one as it's only a few bucks more. Mines still got the original one. Just been cleaning it and thought it was time to replace it, even if it looks cleanish.. I think this one is far more superior than the original anyway. Ryco Microshield guys, if you're interested.
  13. I shudder the thought of ever having my car serviced at a dealer or others. They always seem to scratch, chip. mar or wreck something. My work vehicle is a prime case. I look after it like it's my own but the service guys treat them like crap, because they know it's a "Company Car"... I had to have a crack at the service guy one time for grazing the centre hub caps when removing the wheels. He puts the nuts in the huib cap and slides them under the car.. Nice one. Now they're all sporting graze marks. Now they know how to treat my car because I'll be after them lol.. Too many idiots in this world. Also the knuckleheads at the tyre centre, never use those protective nylon sockets and always scratch the wheel nut wells. Drives me crazy ! Then they over torque the wheel nuts to buggery and I have to pop a vein in my head when I have to remove a wheel. Why can't people just do a proper job.
  14. The Penrite HPR5 is a slightly better oil than the Nulon but there's not much in it imo. I've been using the Nulon 5W30 LongLife Dexos (down here in the arctic state) since late 2016 when I had my old Camry V6 with the 1MZ-FE & now my much newer Aurion which uses the same oil. As other do, I stock up when it's on sale & find it a fine Full Synthetic oil to use. Will go 15K kms without any issue but me being a fusspot will change out at 7.5K kms. Suspect most oils will be just fine providing it's the right spec.
  15. I use diesel when doing the engine flush. I did go to AutoBarn on Sunday and got their special of $9.99 for Castrol 20W-50 [limit of 2 per customer] Now that oil I could use as a flushing oil or in the 4 stroke mower. Will add that to the list of things to do at home this Easter.
  16. You would think so but not from what I have read of someone's experience at a fast oil change place in the USA. Sometimes I get the housing to spin on nice and smoothly first time but it usually takes a few attempts by hand to get it seated just right. I can just imagine what can happen if it just shoved up and let loose with a rattle gun. Just another reason why I am DIY and take so much longer to do things.
  17. Yesterday
  18. Probably a good oil to use when doing the engine flush ?? I'd drive it softly too.
  19. Thanks for the kind words, He's a good boy (sometimes lol) and is always excited when I have stuff to do outside. Always eager to pitch in and help, even if it's for 5 minutes before he runs off to investigate other distractions in our backyard. (Remember those too ?) Luckily we have a good sized backyard full of stimulus.
  20. Good memories ash yes ! I remember the old girls that needed their ball joints steering bits greased. Funny how times have changed. The breaker bar was only for removal, I promise 😊 I remember tightening it with just the 3/8 ratchet. Stupid me not realising it was ONLY supposed to be hand tight. I can be sure it's not cross threaded as I recall it spinning on nice and smoothly. I think the co**** thread makes it idiot proof 😁 Anyways, I am going to buy another housing to keep as a spare incase I have to go medieval on this one...Thanks for the tip. ***UPDATE*** Have just placed an order with Toyota for a Genuine Housing. Cheaper than the Ryco and free delivery. Can't get better than that I reckon.
  21. Ahh TY Tony for the smiles..what a little helper..these days of madness and isolation good to see he takes after his Dad and has an interest you can both do together Stay Safe My Friend KAA
  22. Reminds me of being under the Holden watching my Dad greasing the ball joints. Also had a laugh noticing that long breaker bar in his hands. Explains how Dad was so easily able to get in this current dilemma. Hopefully you showed which direction to undo when you are working upside down under the car. I am always using a ratchet driver to verify that I will be loosening, not tightening. Pays to have a backup plan so just in case you have cross-threaded the housing, nice to know there are replacements readily available. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ryco-Oil-Filter-Cap-RFA202-fits-Toyota-Aurion-3-5-GSV40R-3-5-GSV50R-3-5/153824905169?hash=item23d0adc7d1:g:s9IAAOSwtN9ePb0o
  23. Good idea. I have been thinking about how I was going to use it. Internet searches have been saying ok to mix with the same brand of oil i.e. Nulon.
  24. 0w-16. I never heard of it till now. Wow. How much thinner can they go ? It's almost like sewing machine oil hahahaha !
  25. Keep an eye out for the specials. I'll let everyone know when I see them. Stock up when the going's good I say. Happy Motoring !
  26. As an update, I did previously clean and re-gap the spark plugs. MAF sensor and spark plugs have now been delivered; air filters have yet to be received. MAF sensor got fitted Saturday morning and Yaris was back to normal. After a test drive and further driving this morning, decided not necessary to replace spark plugs until say Xmas.
  27. Last week
  28. Yep, that's exactly the one I use, I buy the 6 litres one. I am not mechanically minded at all but I can change the oil at least. In between 6 monthly servicing at the dealership, I change the oil myself (but not the filter). This means my Kluger (which uses the same engine as the Aurion) gets it's engine oil changed every 3 months and oil filter changed every 6 months. Needless to say, I've never had oil sludge issues and it may be just my imagination but I do feel the engine is a bit smoother when I change to this oil. Yes, it is overkill to change the oil 4 times a year but I only buy it when it is on special and I think it's a much more cost effective way to look after the engine than some other methods such buying premium unleaded petrol which I don't do anymore.
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