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  1. Today
  2. Can say there's a noticeable improvement how it drives. Goes to show how much a bottleneck can hold back & negate other exhaust mods. Regarding drone, well my definition of drone is vibration in the cabin at certain rpms/load. This car has a boomy sound now, but nothing extreme. With the rear section done, and rezzie deleted, I would bet theres nearly a 10kw increase over stock, it honestly feels so much more lively at full throttle, and is so much more effortless at medium throttle around town.
  3. I think it was around 2k for the motor, a few hundred for struts and the rest on labour. If I didn't have warranty, I wouldn't have bothered. I checked the receipt and it didn't show the cost of just the motor. https://parts.toyota.com/p/Toyota_2009_Highlander/Tailgate-Pull-Down-Motor/69353984/8500709005.html shows it as 1500usd which is about 1900aud..
  4. Recently just purchased a 1989 Toyota Camry Wagon. Looks as though I need to replace swaybar for road worthy. There's a few on ebay, are the swaybars for sedans the same used on the wagons? Any info is greatly appreciated. Cheers
  5. Yesterday
  6. You know I sort of expected my new Toyota supra to run for a bit longer than 12 weeks before it became undriveable ?? Well I guess it is a BMW although not made by BMW but by a company called Magna Steyr in Graz Austria who build cars for BMW. First problem was that while waiting to turn into a petrol station at Tin Can Bay the car lost all ability to select a drive mode so I sat there in pouring rain with my hazard lights on wondering "what next". After about 5 minutes the drive selector came back to life. Then I could not lock the car by touching the door handle but only by using the k
  7. Excellent that you have achieved the sound that you have wanted. Nothing unusual for me to be skeptical so always nice to be proven wrong again. I was certainly expecting more drone with the removal of the resonator. Looks like the recently replaced rear resonators/mufflers are able to deal with/eliminate the expected extra drone. Interested to read a follow up on whether you have noticed any change with more torque at lower rpm or in the higher rpm range.
  8. Another Repco weekend sale ending Sunday 9th May which includes 30% off transmission fluid and also coolant.
  9. Hi Matt, If it's a left hand drive car, the fuse box will almost certainly be on that side and vice versa for right drive. I used to own a 10 series Rav many years ago and it's interior fuse box was on the right side. It's a standard thing they tend to do.
  10. Welcome to the forum Chris, yes they are fun little beasts, my niece has one and loves it, KAA
  11. kato

    Fuse box location

    Hi there, Just wondering where I'd find the interior fuse box of a 2007 cv aca33 Rav 4, I know it has two under the bonnet but google searches say there are 3, Two under the bonnet and one in the interior but those are also American versions, I want to hard wire a dash cam and would prefer using an interior fuse box (if it exists) if not i guess it will have to be one of the two under the bonnet. Thanks in Advance.
  12. Hey, I am trying to replace a broken hinge on the centre console. I have removed all the screws from the surrounding cover however it appears to connected to the fridge at the front. Are there screws that are hidden? Does anyone have a guide or pics how to remove the cover? Thanks in advance.
  13. I’ve had a few problems with the turbo boosting. It’s had a new turbo installed 18 months ago and has been fine. I stopped driving it for a while and when I started to drive it again I noticed when I’m in the higher gears doing 80kmh-100kmh the turbo wouldn’t boost. I had a new battery installed and this issue went away and the turbo was working fine. It’s now recently gone back to not boosting when I’m in 4th or 5th gear. Seems like maybe something electrical. Maps sensor maybe? Just not sure why the change of battery would if fixed the issue in the first place. cheers,
  14. Success!!! After hearing stories from others that deleting the front resonator does nearly nothing, I was a bit worried..... But... It seems once the rears have been opened up, the front resonator was holding back the sound. I'm tempted to replace the last cat with a 100cpi version, but its about as loud as I dare take it without getting resonating drone through the cabin. This is the sound I wanted all along, and some of the engine burble can be feintly heard over the hum.
  15. I just replaced air filter with fresh new one, and took off the airbox snorkel and replaced with pvc pipe turn and it seems a bit more responsive and sounds better too.
  16. Hi everyone! Thanks for the add. I drive a 2000 Toyota Echo (2door hatch) 1.3L, It's manual, and 240,000kms. It's super cheap and reliable and I drive it pretty hard. It's like a go-kart! As a little hatch thats my daily drive I don't take it too seriously and have JDM fun with it. It's running LEDs, painted brakes, and I removed airbox snorkel and put in a pipe mod and feels and sounds better. Interested in more mods etc..so share away! my real toy is a VY SS so big difference in power. But this car is my fun zippy car. I call "Dim Sim" because it's little and golden like a fresh hot
  17. Hi, I'm working on a TV Commercial filming in Perth on the 16th of May 2021 and we're looking for a Blue Toyota Rukus to hire for the day of filming. The car would be parked in a street and the actors would get out of it. If you have one and are interested, please email me on lou.brady@gmail.com. Thanks Louise
  18. I wonder how much just the motor would cost new from Toyota. Surely not 3k as mentioned. I would've thought this would include labour and potentially some programming. Even so I cannot see how they could justify that amount. It's just an actuator motor.
  19. Last week
  20. Agree, wreckers are always an option, unfortunately I had a mishap in the past where I took the extra mile to find a part and salvage it only to find that it died out 3 months later... Bottom line, Its a calculated risk that one needs to take.
  21. A traditional bulb tester can't be used for sensor testing as the bulb only tests continuity in an electrical circuit. To test a sensor you'll need a multimeter and some back probes to be able to access the tiny pins in the sockets. You'll be measuring voltage output and resistance of the sensor and then compare your values to the manufacturer specifications. This will then determine if its good or bad. Have a read of this. It may help. https://mzwmotor.com/faulty-automotive-sensor-testing/
  22. Any idea on how to test sensors using a bulb
  23. I totally agree. How hard can it be ?
  24. WTB Toyota 700 air scoop assembly complete blue in colour if possible. For my rebuild car .
  25. ZR I presume looking at them wheels, although they've been plasti-dipped or sprayed black. Good one.
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