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Hi just wanting to know if anyone has purchased a new Ignition lock/ switch & Door Lock Barrels complete with 2 new keys for Hilux 97-2005 Interested in how they have performed, and their longevity compared to original. had a squiz and you can get 2 new door barrels, ignition lock, new breakaway screws, 2 keys for around $40-$50

Problem solved - and a correction: read above instead "...ABS assembly..." How? User a pair of long-nose pliers to gently pull one of the "ears" of the rubber dust cover and loosen it. After removing that it was still a tight squeeze, but the bulb was accessible.  

Good morning fellow members, 2017 Toyota Camry RZ tyre size 225/45R18 I recently installed Good Year Eagle F1 Asymmetric 6 tyres after doing "just a bit" of research, these are in the same class as Pilot Sport 5 tyres but circa $50 per tyre cheaper (they are fairly evenly matched with each just outperforming the other in certain sections). I have previously used Bridgestone RE003's, Bridgestone Potenza Sports, as well as the original Bridgestone ER300 that came with the car. I decided against the RE003 because the last time that I had them fitted (which is what I just had replaced), the quality just wasn't there... the sidewall protection was all but gone, and they SEEMED like they had less grip than I remember them having (when I had them fitted to the same car previously). Which is very subjective since I previously had fitted the Potenza Sport tyres, but again it just felt off. I decided against the Potenza Sport because as pretty much EVERY review on them mentions and which I noticed..... that the tyre wear is excessive, and they don't start with a lot of tread depth either. Due to my "spirited driving" at times I preference grip over fuel economy, and I wanted the tyres to last longer than previous tyres. After a few hours of research I settled on the Good Years and even waited for them to come back into stock. My thoughts so far? Instantly feeling the car rolling better.. without any noticeable loss in grip. What I mean in regards to rolling better relates to both "off throttle rolling" and how much throttle is needed to accelerate / maintain speed. So far I have been impressed with my first long distance drive, but due to the many variables it is hard to say whether certain fuel figures are the new norm or if they are the result of the new tyres and oil used (oil change was months before the tyre change). The problem is that I usually only do short trips (to and from work), and even these have many variables. But based on previous experience in regards to cruising speeds, the most optimal to keep it just under 2000 RPM was 106 km/h (speedo indication), but now doing 110 km/h would still have me just under 2000 RPM. Leaving Easter Saturday starting from the Shell fuel station as you're leaving Newcastle in a Westerly direction to Taren Point in Southern Sydney, non-stop with flowing traffic and leaving at circa 9am with temps 20-28 deg C yielded a fuel economy of 5.7L / 100km The engine oil that I'm currently using is Shell Helix Ultra 0W20 So the combination of the 2 yielded the result BUT I did the oil change several months before, so I am able to confidently say if what I noticed after changing the tyres was from the Engine oil or the new tyres. Just though I would post this in case anyone else is in the market for tyres.

Just bumping this thread to remind you good people out there :-)

Hi gents and any ladies, After watching "a few" video's in regards to additives, as well as looking "the odd" forum...... I have come to the conclusion that ENGINE OIL additives are at best snake oil (in regards to "friction modifiers"), they can also interfere with the oil additive package that has been engineered by some fairly smart people, and worst case scenario can cause issues. For example I read on a forum that one poster who has used Liqui Moly's latest additive Ceratec and done oil sample analysis at their next oil change and found evidence in the sample that it was damaging the "rubber" seals...... And apparently their previous formulation can cause oil galleries to clog (I don't remember the exact details, but it was caused by excess Moly) in certain European cars. So me personally I am not going to use any engine oil additives. I have done regular oil changes using quality oil since I bought the car brand new, so I can't see myself having any issues that would need me to use an "oil flush" When changing engine oil brands / viscosities etc it is best to do a double oil change because even though oil's claim to be compatible with other oils, their additive packages may in fact clash leading to less optimal results versus undiluted engine oil. And there is usually 0.5 L if not more of the old oil in the sump at the end of every oil change. When it comes to FUEL ADDITIVES, these seem to work in regards to "injector cleaners" or "DPF treatments" but again do your own research and buy reputable brands. In regards to RADIATOR ADDITIVES etc..... if your system is fairly clean (in a situation where you have been looking after the car), you would be better served just doing a double coolant change and rinsing the system out as best you can (ESPECIALLY if you are changing brands). And again if you are using a quality product.... you don't need to add anything to it.