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  • Posts

    • Update: New Clutch Installed The installation of my clutch was completed yesterday. I was fortunate enough to be sponsored by UniClutch (who are owned by Clutch Industries). The UniClutch Sport has not yet been released to the general public so I am one of the first ones to trial it, however, they are in the later stages of their development. The UniClutch is designed to be a universal clutch kit. It is also designed so that the clutch pedal will feel factory once installed as opposed to having a heavy pedal which you would generally get from a heavy duty clutch (which is a great benefit for me as the car is my daily). It is a twin disc, dual core clutch system with forged and billet internals and its own integrated flywheel. The UniClutch Sport is also capable of withstanding up to 1100Nm of torque. The boys from UniClutch came out to drop off the UniClutch Sport, do some filming and interviewing. After the completion of the turbo conversion in my car, they will be coming back around to touch base and do some more filming and interviewing. Within the box was an adapter plate (which I will discuss its use further below), the clutch kit and a centrifugal slave cylinder as that's what my gearbox utilises.  The factory flywheel is left in but is not used alongside the uniclutch so there was no need for machining or replacement. The factory flywheel is used only to mount the adapter plate. The adapter plate allows the UniClutch Sport to be fitted. The adapter plate and UniClutch Sport come separated in the box. You are required to put the two together in the correct orientation in correspondence with your flywheel. Attaching the UniClutch Sport and adapter plate is fairly straight forward with hardware and instructions included. Once the adapter plate and UniClutch are together, it can then be fitted into the car. After the car was put back together and the clutch was bled, I took it for a test drive. The clutch pedal felt exactly the same and the engagement of gears was a lot more responsive. The clutch does have a little more bite to it but it is definitely manageable. I am going to break it in for about 500km then give it a bit more abuse. Really keen to see how this will hold up against the turbo conversion but so far, I am very happy with it. I'll attach the link for their website below just in case you boys wanna have a suss. I am also on instagram so chuck us a follow! ig: macbfkdCBF00232.tifCBF00232.tifCBF00232.tifCBF00232.tifCBF00232.tifCBF00232.tifCBF00232.tif https://www.uniclutch.com/  
    • How timely, I did this exact same procedure the other day when it was hot here in Melbourne, which made bleeding quicker. I too also accessed the block taps but couldn't see the front one & just ignored it as I got most from the rad tap (4.75L) & then the balance (2.5L) from the rear block tap. I connected a hose to both before opening the tap for extra cleanliness. Not flushing using tap water makes sense (on a newish car at least) as the water isn't pure like the premixed stuff in the Toyota SLLC bottle of which I purchased 2 (10L) for about $70 from my local dealer. If tap water is used then some is likely to remain in the system & eventually degrade the overall quality of the coolant & potentially cause premature seal & bearing failure, something we're all trying to avoid in a cramped 3.5L V6 FWD setup. Some would call it overkill, I'm just taking extra precautions. Some additional notes I made: 1: open bleeder 1 - 1.25 turns max otherwise air may get in 2: bleeder hose not immersed into overflow coolant funnel otherwise will suck back in 3: install cable tie to base of bleeder hose to prevent leak & falling off 4: make sure funnel rad-cap tight fit otherwise will leak (had to tighten mine) 5: bleed process took 13minutes in 30+degree heat in garage before steady flow from bleeder hose 6: let engine idle a further 15minutes for coolant flow to normalise & little to no air/bubbles from overflow funnel 7: next time use both block taps to drain 8: fill coolant to crease on funnel plenty otherwise risk overflow during bleeding process & engine running @ 2500rpm After turning engine off I extracted excess coolant from funnel, removed the funnel & bleeder cap from radiator neck, filled to top then closed her off with factory cap. Filled cars overflow bottle to full & let the engine cool overnight. In morning when cold refilled overflow bottle to full as engine cool down process will suck some back in, lightly washed engine bay of coolant & dirt & dried it before starting. I checked the coolant level was full after a few drive cycles to make sure it was all perfect, car runs beaut 🙂 A painless process all made possible due to the great AMD aka the Car Care Nut, our greatful & dedicated friend from the Toyota world 🙂  
    • Hi all! I’m new here, thanks for accepting me. I just purchased a beautiful 2016 ATX. Just wondering if anyone has retrofitted the electric rear sunshade? Thinking of picking one up from the wreckers. What would I need just the switch and parcel shelf? Thanks!
    • It's amazing the engine is still ticking over considering the lack of oil changes, some engines would have self grenaded by then. Only 3 years old, just plain stupidity & false economy.  
    • Following YouTube video was posted 5 months ago by Nunawading Toyota located in Melbourne Australia. This video certainly provides proof of what can happen if you presumably only top up the oil instead of regular oil changes. Consider that this has happened over a 3 year period and 65,000 km. Presumably the purchaser did not look at the inside of the oil filler cap. Definite indicator that servicing did not happen. 6 services @ $220 = $1320 so very much cheaper than an engine replacement.  
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