Yaris / Echo Club
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Hi, please tell me where to post this question. But I have a 2002 Lexus ES300 which has a 1MZFE engine. Stupidly I went to change a tyre with the car jacked up and I used a breaker bar to crack the nut but I rotated the wheel, now the wheel rotates in park. So I think I broke the park pawl. And I want to know if I have to remove the transmission or engine, to fix it. Thanks in advance! -
Could someone enlighten me as to whether a HZJ78 Troopy passenger door will fit a 1989 HJ75 ute. Also has anyone had any experience in replacing door pillar chassis sections. Thank you .Jamo new member -
By motormatewa · Posted
As a mechanic based in Perth, I’ve recently seen a rise in customers coming in with brake noise issues shortly after having their brake pads replaced – often by third-party workshops or DIY jobs. 🛠️ Common Problem: Squealing or grinding noise just days after new brake pads are installed. Sometimes paired with vibrations or uneven braking. 🔍 Root Cause (In Most Cases): Cheap or low-quality brake pads Pads not bedded-in properly Rotors not resurfaced or replaced when necessary Missing anti-squeal shims or improper grease on contact points ✅ Our Fix: Full inspection of pad quality & rotor condition Proper application of brake grease & shims Brake rotor machining or replacement if needed Road test to confirm issue is resolved 🤝 Tip for Customers: Always ask for OE-quality pads and make sure your mechanic checks rotor thickness and applies anti-squeal compound during install. Let me know if you’ve encountered this issue — happy to help or answer questions. -
By the_random_hero · Posted
G'day, Vehicle is a ZRE152R Corolla which has done plenty of kms without too many issues. A while ago I did notice the rear right caliper dragging, and put it off as I couldn't find a rebuild kit. Eventually it got pretty bad, so over the weekend I've put on new rear pads/disc, as well as a wrecker caliper that was in very good condition. Noticed on the original disc that the back had worn significantly more than the front. As part of this I pulled the caliper sliders out of the original carrier bracket, cleaned/degreased the entire bracket, put on new lithium grease and installed with new seals. Slider pins move freely in and out and have next to no wear. Bled the brakes, bedded the new pads in and took it for a quick drive - everything seemed fine but I thought I could hear a little bit of dragging still. Didn't think too much of it until I got home and noticed that the inner pad was cooked - it had been binding on the side closest to the center of the hub with wearing about half a mm into the new disc already. Since then I've pulled the wheel off, cleaned/regreased everything and checked everything functions as it should. I disconnected the handbrake at the caliper end, and pressing on the brake everything works well - but it doesn't release fully. I can wind the piston in without an issue, and it will extend without the pads in fine. Wracking my brains trying to think what else the issue could be - spoken to a few people who are insistent it's the slider pins binding up, but I've confirmed this isn't the case. Cheers -
Yeah just run your vin by Toyota and they'll tell you if the recall has been done I once owned a mint 380 vrx, drove super smooth I really liked that car. Upon selling it, I found nobody wanted it, depreciation was a killer
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