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campbeam

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Everything posted by campbeam

  1. From my eBay watchlist: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/253060897347
  2. 100% agree and support the need to use the hub spacers for safety. Without the hub spacers there is more pressure on the wheel studs which is not an issue until the studs shear off or nuts loosen and there goes the wheel. Fortunately not direct experience just recalling internet posts explaining about hub spacers and why wheels can come off vehicles.
  3. I suspect some spirited short distance urban driving and quite possibly lots of highway driving in that displayed 573 kms. Also the battery size in a hybrid is relatively small such that it can only operate on full electric for a short distance before the engine kicks in to recharge it. Hopefully, hybrid owners will post based upon their actual real life experience as to whether 7.5L/100km is a cause for concern or not.
  4. Your question is essentially about the difference between real world results vs a comparative test result. https://www.greenvehicleguide.gov.au/pages/ToolsAndCalculators/FuelConsumptionLabel https://www.carexpert.com.au/toyota/camry/2022-sl-hybrid-d309bbf5 Following review mentioned the fuel efficiency figures of 5.5 and 5.2L/100 km actually achieved and this is for a new vehicle. https://www.drive.com.au/reviews/2022-toyota-camry-sx-hybrid-review/ How about some very specific details of your friend's Camry i.e. year, mode,l odometer reading etc and some clues about its service history, mechanical condition and the battery etc? How about data for analysis underlying the 7.6L/100km? This also assumes that the correct fuel 95 Premium Unleaded is being used.
  5. I have got no definite answers, merely reasonable guesses/assumptions. It could possibly be typical oil burn and perhaps be more noticeable after using a lower viscosity engine oil. What I have suggested are some options that are relatively inexpensive and not going to make a bad situation worse. This is why I suggested for your consideration using Liqui Moly Cera Tec as a better alternative to just topping up the engine oil. Quite simply it is a potential workaround until you get the next service in 3 months. Same with checking the PCV valve. Maybe it could do with a clean rather than need a replacement.
  6. Sound like you have a decent quality engine from the earlier generations of the 2AZ-FE engine which presumably was manufactured in Japan. However after 340,000 kms it is worn, so can expect some oil consumption. Main aspect is regular maintenance and avoid extended oil change intervals. What you should consider is using the recommended oil viscosity suitable for the engine of your specific vehicle and driving conditions. Best reference source is your owners manual and then the lube guides from recognised engine oil brands. https://penriteoil.com.au/forums/topic/1/Car Engine Oil/thread/2682/2003 toyota camry whats best engine oil?page=1 https://penriteoil.com.au/product-selector#/recommendations https://www.nulon.com.au/vehicle-lube-guide-menu/manual-vehicle-search/TOYOTA/CAMRY/2003/91027300 I have recently been doing some online research on Liqui Moly Cera Tec so got it under consideration as a future purchase. In your situation, I would consider using this product and keep monitoring the oil level. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/liqui-moly-liqui-moly-cera-tec-300ml/649235.html
  7. Can you provide more details of your Camry i.e. engine and transmission. Is it the original engine or has it been rebuilt at any time? I am thinking that it would be a good idea to check the Positive Crankcase Ventilation [PCV] to confirm that it is functioning correctly.
  8. Welcome to the Forum. Never owned or been a passenger in a RAV4 so interested to read about your experiences and the tips and tricks.
  9. Good thinking. I am sure that there are buyers seeking the Camry RZ in preference to the standard Camry. Let us know how things go with the sale after it is all completed. Interested to know whether the used car market is still in high demand.
  10. Welcome from Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. Already noticed your 1st contribution post to this Forum which was spot on. I spent a few years looking at posts on the USA Forum before joining this Forum.
  11. After a good nights sleep, I now recall reading [many years ago] about a mechanics trick which was more related to removing drive shafts from the rear differential. Retaining bolts would be loosened then the vehicle taken for a drive around the block. Makes sense that the movement of the suspension is helping to loosen the stuck parts. I have never done this myself so just offered as further food for thought.
  12. Got me thinking some more. I also happen to have an impact screwdriver set in my tool kit which I have not previously thought to apply to a stuck axle scenario.
  13. Just a suggestion, based upon what I have done in the past. Thread back on retaining nut so that it is flush with the end of the axle. Then give it a few "gentle" whacks with a decent persuader which in my case is usually a 4-7 lb short handle sledge hammer. Main concern is not to damage the retaining nut and the threads on the axle. If you have got some brake fluid then use it as lubricating penetrator giving it a few minutes to work [cup of coffee/tea time] before giving the axle a few "love taps". It should take a few repeats and take your time resisting the urge to give it a great big thump. I had not previously thought about using this tool shown in the following video.
  14. Never owned a RAV 4 so have no direct experience. However, about a year ago, I replaced the rear wheel bearing hub assembly[passenger side] on my 2006 Aurion which did come off after being persuaded with a sledge hammer. No great amount of corrosion encountered as in this YouTube video. For those that are more active on this Forum, you would have previously seen posts about removing stuck oxygen sensors and the mechanics trick of using brake fluid as a rust penetrator. It works much more effectively than RP-7 and WD-40.
  15. This YouTube video appeared in my feed a few weeks ago. Pays to at least listen to advice based upon experience then make your own decision to suit your circumstances. Quite notable that this automotive engineer has a Lexus and mentions others in his field of expertise.
  16. I have to agree that it is involved but maybe not as much as the water pump replacement. I ended up removing the radiator shroud to have the space to maneuver out the existing alternator and to get to an additional retaining bolt that is hidden away. Also I bought a very decent quality alternator which came with a 3-5 year warranty from an established eBay seller. If I was looking for another alternator, I would be considering this ebay listing as a starting benchmark. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/404500266840?fits=Model%3AAurion|Make%3AToyota&itmmeta=01HR49ECG9RP7SQB7WZ46K6T5G&hash=item5e2e183f58:g:Hw4AAOSw7URlCWcL:sc:AU_Regular!4118!AU!-1&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8J03ymyAAiJoMfLc%2FIQsl0rs%2Bpnd0aMfqCZ%2BRwUE%2BH3Cmx0ZTc9ysCQJwWajTPevCclyQehbq1FuQSukCLaK7CxK8bkrdJ82vd4zqIbqMb%2BWFZu4eccc4Fb9y1UNdyRTJP0zsDifDGsqfPnzWWj8C1I%2FKVMz9Dv8uWRBzjCe4Gf3RJr13S%2F2mlSS3MqiU4PGA%2Bax1DRPY0uZq7UWvoXYeEnHIgdyNpEPGZA0Ll67d3iX5Aa5YVFvA82pEIwTF7NAWZ4OQg2W4w%2Bx4gAxqoel4H%2Fp139KhGbqNFJFU7v0QHMdGn2tzbV4Mq0XGqs43NRP4w%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5rIuYnBYw
  17. Based solely upon a past experience with this similar issue, throttle body and the Idle Air Control valve need to be cleaned. Have a look at a few YouTube videos and they will show what you need to do.
  18. Definitely buy genuine DENSO brand sensors. Suggest that you contact this eBay seller and provide your VIN number. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/305305333190?itmmeta=01HQT8VV06JMGT2N6HEZ78N5W7&hash=item47159dadc6:g:s1MAAOSwkZtkkmmn:sc:AU_Regular!4118!AU!-1&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8IK7lSYv65zobD1nUWriBvpuwIHt%2FmNClNjNilQswJM6tLvTJt1ZiKkGzkKqODk%2BUltV8e9EaSD%2F3gkG1RCIDKSdbMi7kcY4ehOAnLo1rpXggd9iyaCLIsAXkef1RhZCWSriAyhQsSB7btO4cv%2BoIwOqjxVMc0lTXZYJYc6fzTR6CGi3KCIl2mJa8dDmGIpzJzafxzJEqRrXZ9xXVZgrD2YA%2BHPQCEdk7lM5fGjXXTaX%2FuEtCTj%2Bzn5iutUT%2BDxibuEFUAlTQih3%2BNwNZJls3FGzFW%2FukJ6yFQwR7SA0N1uZQWVOuZtd3KUkYXIWQdZ%2FHg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6iw78i-Yw
  19. I am totally guessing that his "chicken dance" may have involved a reboot of the immobilizer system to re-establish communication between the keys and the vehicle system. In the workshop manual, there is a section for this system. The receiver unit [for the door locks] is located somewhere around the rear of the vehicle on the driver passenger/boot area.
  20. I will be interested to hear how things go with the engine removal. Something that is beyond my DIY capabilities and willingness in my elderly years. My main concern would be disconnecting all of the wiring and not missing anything. Sure that there will be lots of learnings with tips and tricks along the way.
  21. Quite a few years ago, I got a spare ignition key cut then the locksmith came out to my Aurion and did the process to program the key. I was totally confused with all of the steps that he did and no way that I can recall what he did. I am sure that he even opened and closed the boot a few times as well as the ignition. Definitely a "chicken dance". Worthwhile to have a spare key otherwise you are in a world of financial pain.
  22. Your best reference is your owners manual. Next source of information is the Lube guide. Penrite Lube Guide has a number of engine oil alternatives which include 10W-40. https://penriteoil.com.au/product-selector?by=Quick Search#/recommendations
  23. I have no experience so not going to comment. However, I did go and view a YouTube video by Eric the Car Guy. It did not work for his test vehicle. You may find this YouTube video of some interest with some real before and after data of a commercial catalytic convertor cleaner product.
  24. I ordered a set of the pre-cat and post-cat sensors from an eBay seller located in Brisbane, QLD on 31st January and got delivery 1st February. 3 of these sensors were manufactured in Japan. As advertised, one of the post cat sensors was manufactured in the USA and branded DENSO First Fit. I also located previously purchased pre-cat [air-fuel] sensors that were also branded DENSO First Fit. These were the ones that I fitted plus both of the post-cat sensors. The replaced sensors have been retained and will get a good clean, eventually.
  25. I have previously removed the air intake plenum when replacing the spark plugs but did not replace those plenum gaskets as they appeared to be in good condition etc. Now 50,000 kms and a few years later, I have been trying to resolve an engine misfire and P0420 code. My 2006 Aurion now has an odometer of 258,000 kms. After viewing a YouTube video about the P0420 error code, the recommendation was to replace these gaskets on the plastic air intake and to also check for any minor cracks. The gaskets compress over time and no longer seal resulting in vacuum leak and the error code. Actually I confirmed this when I reversed the existing plenum gaskets and temporarily got the P0430 code while the P0420 code still persisted. Height on the new plenum gaskets were measured at 7mm using both a micronometer and vernier calipers. Existing gaskets measured at 5.5mm except for one gasket which only measured 5mm in a section. Following photos show the difference between the old and new gaskets when fitted. Overall, worthwhile to replace these plenum gaskets when replacing the spark plugs.
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