Thirteen

I havent had much luck with any ethonal fuel in any other car ive owned, other than just getting less distance per tank. But ill try a tank of 95 e10 and see how it goes. On 95 or 98 i get basically 500km to a tank. So thats a good benchmark.

Ya my bad, should have just left out the word, ratio.

Well in your situation if its tuned to run on 91 fuel then using 91 octane fuel will be the optimum source of fuel to power the engine to produce the optimum power and torque and have no side effect of pinging or knocking. If you put in 89 RON, i suspect you would notice barely any difference in normal city and slow driving, but it would become alot more prevalent at the other end of the spectrum, so if your towing heavy loads, racing the engine driving up mountains in tall gears and just putting a heavy load onto the motor. However depending on the engine if the ecu is capable of making an adjustment for such, then it should retard the timing to compensate. The same can go the other way too. However most modern passenger cars are built to a budget and these features can be negated. In terms of longevity, it depends how its treated, i assume you only mean if everything is looked after and the fuel is the only variable. If you drove it gently and off load and avoided pinging and knock then whatever the engineers deem to be the life of the engine would be it. If you race the engine hard and its pinging and or knocking, i suspect not as long. But its like anything i knew a guy that had a GTR Tuned specifically for 98ron, the engine was in very good condition and it still chucked a rod, My point being the answer is very wide because its a broad question. Cars that come out of the factory are generally built in such a way to get the most life for the most economical cost. Not only in terms of servicing but also to the consumer. Sure, there are many variable compression engines, but im using it as an abstract term, Subaru WRX, Toyota Supra RZ, Nissan GTR, Mazda RX7, Toyota Hilux Diesel, anything with a turbo fitted too it. If you check the compression off boost the ratio is generally lower than a non turbo engine, hence why they feel sluggish until boost kicks in, as the turbo makes up the gap in lower compression and more in boost pressure. A turbocharger works by forcing compressed air into the motor to push up the compression in the cylinder.

New camry are super nice. A hybrid one would be really nice too. So good on fuel and super comfy to drive

To answer the OP question in short form, Yes you will net a minimal gain but with a large caveat. The responses in this thread seem to be quite speculative. Higher RON fuel merely means it has a higher resistance to knocking within the engine. It doesn't mean more powerful fuel, purely because the number is bigger. If the engine has the capability to take advantage of the fuels higher resistance to knocking then it will do so and possibly yield a slight gain in power. The injectors are still going to push the amount of fuel required for this. Meaning if you drive on the same piece of road, in the same conditions, with same driving habbit you will yield a slight gain as the engine will make a tiny bit more power so you dont need to accelerate as much to get to the same speed. If the weather is different (air density and temperature), the load on the engine (driver induced, terrain etc) then the outcome will be different. A higher octane fuel doesn't magically push less fuel through the injectors. The engine is going to push through what it needs. The other point to note too is if the engine is tuned only upto a certain RON, there is a good chance it won't take advance of the extra reduced knock feature so therefore a higher ron provides no gain in terms of resistance to knocking. Meaning if the engine is tuned for 95 octane to create its highest power output, putting 98 ron in won't magically create more power or gain better fuel economy. It simply means you've met the minimum specification of 95 ron and gained a few extra points of resistance to engine knocking. A classic example is E85 fuel vs conventional 100% petroleum fuel in a turbo car. Turbo engines gain a greater benefit from higher octane fuel such as E85 because of the ability to adjust the engines compression. Hence why you will see a huge gain in performance from high octane fuel, as the engine itself can be pushed harder (more boost, more timing) with a fuel higher resistance to knocking. Simply putting higher RON fuel into a standard engine without variability in compression and timing change is really going to make minimal difference. Thats why when people go E85 tunes you need a custom ECU, and all the fuel mods to support it. I too have also put 100ron into my old 7th gen celica and it made literally 0 difference to engine performance but i did get about 20% worse distance from a tank. ive tried all manner of fuel in my 600cc and 1000cc bikes, my 2JZ and 7M turbo even my 370z and i literally never noticed any gain in power or economy if i went to a higher grade over what its tuned for. Granted on the turbo engines i've had them custom tuned to run a higher RON fuel and gained power, but certainly lost economy as a consequence. But all the NA engines that have a static compression ratio, then no gain. Also to the claim that Aus fuel is some how worse than anywhere else, what is this based off? just a feeling? Put it this way, if you put 91 ron into an engine that needs 95 ron, it will still run and run absolutely fine, but when you start to drive up a steep hill, tow a trailer or put immense load onto the engine the engine will start pinging and theres a good chance you'll get some knock. So with your idea that Australian fuel is worse and less RON than claimed....let me ask you this. By putting in the minimum ron fuel grade specified for your engine, have you ever experienced any knocking or pinging at all? My point being, if Aus fuel is **** and lower RON than advertised, then you will get the exact same symptoms. If you put 95 in and the car runs fine on 95 then how is it worse? Ive been driving and working on cars for nearly 18 years and never once experienced any of these gains from power or economy just using higher ron fuel or losses from crap aus fuel, so i think there is a bit of a placebo effect where people think higher RON number + price = better performance. But thats just my opinion, everyone's experience can vary :D

^ what this guy said. The pov pack vs the top model will all be built the same. But the wiring harness from the wheel to the headunit is what you need to track down. I suspect its not click and play either.

Are you sure its a 2gr? Or you having a guess.... it does say 1MZ in large writing on the head.... plus oil fill port is not 2gr. Oh and description says 1MZ too 😁

Japanese fuel is higher quality. The cars are tuned for there respective markets. Most standard cars here are tuned for 91ron. The manual translated specifies high octane which in japan is 96ron. It runs absolutely fine on 95ron. As far as e10 and highway robbery. E10 is a cheats methods of selling fuel and imo e10 is more highwa5t robbery than 100% petroleum. When i lived in perth tried out 100ron (ethanol mix) in a few of my race cars and would get nearly 30% less distance on the tank. Ive also noticed the same in running cars on 91 vs e10. I understand higher fuel costs a tad bit more perhaps 12c difference works out to around $4 more per tank. But i usually get about 50 to 100km more to a tank of solid fuel vs ethanol mix. If im spending all this money to buy a car then i have no problem buying good proper fluids. Filters and even fuel to ensure it always works and never gives me grief. Not saying paying for less quality will either but to cost difference is so marginal.

Yeah sludge engine was a concern when buying a 2gr car. But that's no fault of thr design thats lack of maintenance. The PCV change is a 1 minute job that costs about $8 and a blocked pcv is a large cause of excess sludge. Otherwise use good oil and change frequently and you'll have no issues

Enough to get all the old coolant out! Or as many points as fluid will come out. Best bet if your concerned with it mixing is drain out what you can from all points (including heater core), then fill the system up with demin water. Let that cycle through for few minutes. Then open all the taps to drain out. Demin last i checked is about $6 for 5L. This will dilute the old stuff enough. Then fill up with new stuff.

Judging from looking at photos all fwd 2gr look to have the same sump. Which is typical of toyota to build 1 engine and share it across all platforms with minimal changes. Makes sense from a business perspective too. It looks like the is350 with a rwd setup has a different sump. Car has 500km on it since oil change and still going nicely.oil level hasnt changed. What went in originally is whats still there at the same amount. I bought 2x 6L nulin SN full synths 5w-30 in anticipation of 6L oil change so got 100ml left over!!

My imported 2grfe requires 95 ron. As per instructions from the Japanese manual. In a car that weighs 1.7ton fitted with u660e (6 spd auto) Driving around town lightly i get around 11.5L/100. Highway drops to 8L/100

It very much is a GSR50. If your savvy withyour toyota codes this will imply fitted with the 2GR-FE. The ACR50 is thr 2.4L. Its a late 06. Bare in mind many jdm models have way higher trims and engine options over local offerings. It is certainly a 2grfe. I even had the joy of putting new plugs in it the other night! The car is still running absolutely fine. Its just odd its still only taken 5L. I am very proficient with working on cars so there isnt any misunderstanding or confusion in what im dealing with. Every document ive encounted that deals with thr car including the owners manual suggest the same oil capacity as local aus 2gr offerings. The sump hasn't been changed its still a factory sump. I bought 6L oil in anticipation of the amount but none the less 5L it is. Its really made no difference to the car. Its just puzzled me to how it is.

Why not use Toyota red? Its basically one of thr best coolants available. It gets changed very infrequently as its long life. Toyota puts there name to it ( for whatever thats worth) and your full flush doesnt need to be so through. Just dump put what you can. Plug it. Refill with new stuff. If there is a bit if old coolant left over it will just mix through. Easy.

For what they are worth repco or supercheap. They are such an inexpensive item and yeah they are kind of important. But if your really worried about the cabin filter maybe dont leave the house cuz the outside air might get you. Aus has clean air. Reason i don't bother with ali or ebay is just easier to goto local shop. Usually not that much more and you get it straight away

Hmm ok interesting. The drain plug on these is at the back of the sump. Another luxury with driving a Toyota Star Destroyer is its high enough to fit a oil pan underneath so no jacking up required. Ive been checking it every day for the last week as i find it quite puzzling and the dip stick still measures true as it has when i filled it up and sitting at the full dot. I dont know how accurate the markings on the oil bottle, but its basically bang on 5L. To be triple sure, i checked it again first thing this morning. Dipstick straight out of an overnight engine and yep, exactly the same spot. Maybe i just have a freak car that got a smaller sump? Granted it is a late 2006 model so perhaps toyota did something odd in the early models? Either that or its the wrong dipstick, but i hjighly doubt. When i start up the car it fires up very nice and smoothly, none of the typical death rattle just fires up no worries, not a sound at all, nice super smooth. Then at operating temp you get the usual intermitent bit of 2GR Engine chatter from the engine but otherwise everything seems the same. Very odd. A mate of mine who is a head mechanic at porsche and mercedes (and only drives jap cars namely RX7's and Turbo toyotas) mentioned there could be a bit of oil left over in the VVTI system, i suspect not all of 1L but spose any bit extra is a possiblity.

Hey everyone. This is going to be a bit of a curly one as my vehicle is actually a Jap Tarago (Estima, however has the 2GR-FE) and there are more 2GR in this section than any other so thought i might ask here. Anyway, did oil change the other day on the battleship for the first time (freshly imported) and 5L came out of the motor, so i topped it up with Full Synth SN 5w-30 but it literly only took 5L of oil. Now everything ive read (including the japanese estima handbook says) 6.1L with filter change or 5.7L without filter change (god bless google translate) The dipstick is reading full at 5L. I even found some other paper work that came with old service history and that mentioned SN 0w-30 EDGE 5L. I dont get it.... why is 5L coming out, only 5L going in and 5L being put in the engine, yet every other 2GR takes 6.1L, the manual says 6.1L... Car seems to run fine but am i going crazy? Should i just chuck the other 1L in there and forget wat the dipstick says? Perhaps the dipstick is the wrong one, bhut the manual shows the 2GR model Estima has a twist in the end and this one has exactly that, like other 2GR's What you guys think

Ya, he explains everything quite clearly. Even if your competent, somethings just get explained with that bit extra! Just a small update, the u660e is still running like a champ. I did read on the Pensite ATF LV bottle its backwards compatible. I watched a good clip on oil manufactering and they mentioned back in the old days, you couldnt mix any synthetic oils with mineral oils. However now days with any oils, engine, gear etc as long as they are the same grade and fall into the same specs then they are compatible. Be it mineral or synth

This clip basically showed exactly what to do, obviously compeltely different model of car, but in essense is EXACTLY the same. However we got luxury of drain plug! But you see the same stuff, drain fluid out, change filter, insert new oring, new gasket, bolt up in star pattern, fill with whatever came out. Ez lyf Change Auto Trans fluid Thanks

Alright firstly i want to thank you all, this is my first post, but i feel this thread provided very valuable information on how to DIY the transmission fluid swap. So i feel i should contribute to the post as others have done here to give something back :) A few of the questions i want answered got touched on, but im going to add my 2c, firstly because i have just finished doing the swap (and its bloody simple to do), secondly a few of the questions i had, breifly got answered, but i will go into more detail on the specific questions i had, thirdly, i didnt do it on an aurion, but i did do it on a 2GR-FE powered car. I realise this might not be the right section, but with the addition of what i have to the rest of the thread will help someone else no doubt. Ok, so i bought an imported 2006 Estima Aeras G-Package. Aussie Tarago's are pretty pov by comparison. For those unaware, an Estima is a JDM model Tarago, however has heaps of extra features, but does come factory fitted with a 2GR and a U660E. However one issue i have got is there is virutually no guides for ACR50, GSR50 GSR55 model toyotas, and even the Australian Taragos i feel most people who own them won't know where to even start. I actually have owned many cars and bikes in the past and very compitent in the DIY department hence why i wanted to chip in. So onto what i have discovered: The aurion/camry/ ( US) avalon are essentially identical to the Estima underneath. Granted i have never even touched an ausrion/camry to do any work on, but judging from the other images they look identical to the estima. I simply googled a few guides and the process for the fluid swap was indentical. So anyone with an Estima/Tarago you can follow these Aurion/Camry/(USA Avalon) guides as the platform is nearly identical. And vice versa anythign i picked up about the Estima no doubt will apply to the Aurion/Camry etc. One puzzling thing and could be a sligthy difference is the "death bolt". A 1/4" 10mm socket slips up perfectly between the chassis rail and the trans pan. Wether this is a slight difference, i'm unsure, but looking at the other photos in the thread it looks like you should be able to fit it up. Regardless on Estima slim 10mm socket and you can rip the pan off. I won't go into the detail of how to do it cause others already have, however i will add, that i opt'ed to use Penrite ATF LV (light blue bottle as above). I decided this off others above using it also. I didnt use a scanguage or any method to measure the ATF temp, i applied the same logic as above. Whatever comes out, is what must go in. I purchased a Toyota genuine transmission strainer (filter) @ $140. Yes its pricey. However my logic is i wont change it for another 1-2 years so might as well spend the extra and get a legit filter rather than try save $100 on a filter with unknown quality. My car has 100,000 on the clock and not only do i have the dereg export papers from japan to verify the KM but there are servicing stickers stuck onto the car in Japan so i know its been serviced. Judging by the condition of the car its been very well looked after. When i drained down the stock ATF it was still very red. Now it was still very clear and had a slight dark tint too it, but still in a very decent and serviable state. I replaced the strainer filter, the sump gasket, cleaned out the pan. I drained out of the sump, the strainer and the residual amount came 2.65L. However on the drip trey i had, it looked around another 200ml. So for argument sake lets say 2.8L, which falls in line with others here. The magnets had very minimum amount of sludge on them. Also to note, you cant get the magnet placements wrong as there are 2 indentations into the sump so you where to return them, if you pull them out and clean them. Wiped out the sump, refitted he gasket, fit new strainger, bolt sump on. Bear in mind also. I didnt flush the system out. I decided because the original fluid was still in reasonable shape i figured simply doing a few periodic changes would eventually flush it all free. The system apprently takes over 6L and i nearly recovered 3L just from the pan and filter, Another point is people talk about mixing Toyota WS and other fluids together. Now this is purely my oppinion so take it with a grain of salt. The fluid ive placed in (penrite ATF LV) is specified as a replacement for Toyota WS, it looked just as a viscous, smelt the same, looked t he same and felt the same. I know that is absolutely nothing to go by as you need to study the fluids properties, but imo they look so similar, that mixing them is really not going to cause any issues. Yes ideally flushing out all 6.5L is what is desired but this is about DIY. So my point being. I have a mix of the original Toyota WS and Penrite ATF LV in there. Now the filling is the point where i think alot of people worry. Yes obviously no one wants to get it wrong and blow up the transmission, neither do i! However i really dont think you can go wrong here. I bought some plastic 1L measuring juggs from the shops. I had an empty 3L milk container and filled the 1L jugg from teh drain pan to get the exact measurement. Like i said i ended up with 2.65L with residual in the filter and stuff that kept coming out. So as the Penrite ATF LV is 4L, i basically marked the fill mark a bit above the 1L marker to make it around 2.8L, bought a cheap fluid pump and pumped until that "2.8L" marker. Its not even 100% accurate but its close enough. Once its in, fill plug on and tight, wheel on. Took it for a spin. A little nervous on start up, but nothing to worry about. Took the car for about a 20 minute drive in the back streets and the main roads so i could hear the transmission. I think as the original fluid was quite good there wasnt a huge improvement. However it did seems to change gears a bit smoother. I ran it through the sport mode into all the gears and gave it a hard run. Gear changes are very good and smooth. Absolutely no slippage at all. Over all worthwhile and very simple to do. I think anyone who can DIY change engine oil can follow the guide on here and do the same trans swap. Now granted i have a rough idea how much fluid is in the gearbox (about 2.8L) but thats wat came out give or take 50ml. Car seems to be running fine so cant really see any issues! Any questions let me know, hopefully i can provide someone else with as much help as you guys have offered me :)