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Jon Albiez

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Everything posted by Jon Albiez

  1. Finally got around to using 95. Can't complain.
  2. 95RON unless as part of E10 is uncommon where I am - 98RON is much more readily available. As I've already mentioned it's the ability to advance ignition timing that is generally responsible for increased efficiency on most models. I'd likely find that 95RON would likely return the same results but hey, need to find it first :) Would be interesting to pull live fuel maps on differing fuels.
  3. We're already up to 5000KM since aquisition. Had a good chance to experiment with fuel. On motorway (as opposed to highway) cycle sitting on low 7s on 98RON. Can't seem to push it lower than 9 on either 91RON or E10. Makes sense to use 98. Highway driving (one lane each way, hillier, some overtaking) on 98RON consumption is in the high 8s. On 91RON/E10 around 10. Urban driving 98RON is around 11.5 and ULP/E10 12.0. Given the added cost of 98RON it makes no financial sense to use it around town. No difference in consumption spotted between ULP and E10. I've also found the consumption calculator in the vehicle over estimates actual consumption. FWIW when filling up with E10 or ULP the DTE reads around 560KM and 640KM on 98.
  4. So far I'm finding at 55L down the fuel light comes on. As mentioned probably a very good thing to do as electric fuel pumps can potentially burn out if left to run dry - not to mention the inconvenience of running out of fuel.
  5. It depends widely I've found. I have all the majors handy plus Parts For Cars. For major purchases I play them against each other, also of note is Sparesbox. They were $200 cheaper on my last set of shocks.
  6. Not necessarily in these days of adaptive ECUs. Ethanol has a third less calorific density than unleaded so a 10% blend will usually net a 3% reduction in mileage. Ethanol however is 113RON so a typical E10 blend is 94/95RON and many modern vehicles will advance ignition timing to take advantage of this fact. Older vehicles with a distributor would require a similar manual advance. It's the same concept as to why many vehicles gain better mileage on 98RON - the Otto Cycle is more efficient if more compression is allowed to occur without detonation.
  7. Not Aurion/Toyota related... But could it be a faulty brake light switch? When we had the Elantra the stability control light was always randomly coming on then randomly switching off. A simple brake light switch replacement solved the issue.
  8. Yeah the air filter wasn't the greatest, certainly not the worst I've seen but not great either. Needed to remove everything down to the throttle body to open the air box fully. Throttle body doesn't look too bad. That's what I'm gaining from owners and their input. Appears Toyota designed a good engine but completely overestimated the service interval. Even my 34yo runabout has a 10,000KM interval!
  9. Just replaced today with this. Shop around though, Repco were almost twice the price of SCA.
  10. Both the above were stamped by dealers when they were due to be changed. Official service guidelines state the ATF to be replaced at 150,000 if driven in "severe" conditions (marvellously vague) Are the transmissions prone to failure? I thought they weren't too bad. Looks to be a major pain to change compared to its predecessor (it had a fill tube and drain plug).
  11. The dealers aren't too bad up here. Mum has recently switched from the dealer in Brisbane and now comes to Toowoomba to have her XV50 Camry serviced. The door actuator in her SL Atara failed a couple of months out of warranty. Always religiously serviced by the dealer and they refused to negotiate as it's "no longer under warranty". Wanted over $600 to fix. Toowoomba did it for half the price and she's extremely happy with their service, their rates are cheaper than her former independent mechanic.
  12. Service history is OK for the major ones (e.g. fuel filter at 150,000 and the major at 90,000). Not so some of the minor ones. I generally changed the oil every 15,000 in the Elantra with Penrite full synthetic and never had any engine or sludge issues - along with almost all its original compression. I might nudge that down to 10,000 with the Aurion given its tendency to sludge.
  13. We're currently sitting around 12.5L/100KM urban cycle, but I did change the air filter today - one already in the car was filthy. Holds around 10L/100KM highway. Bit more kick running on E10 over ULP.
  14. I was surprised with the first oil change. Under the filler cap was a bit sludgy when we bought the car so I ran a flush through. I'm used to vehicles that only drop 80-90% of their dry sump capacity. Imagine my surprised when over 6 litres came out (oil and flush). Took the whole 6 litre bottle to come out at the full mark. I'll be changing the oil a little more frequently until I'm satisfied the sludging has dropped. Service history was great until the last couple of years with extensive highway driving and extended service intervals.
  15. Hi everyone, I'm a diehard Mazda fan but my wife's Elantra was just written off with hail damage and we purchased a 2007 ZR6 Aurion with 161,000 on the clock. A little bit to learn, I'm used to mechanical simplicity but Toyota really seem to have designed this vehicle well. Hopefully I can give some general advice as well as learning about the Aurion as well :)
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