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RN106 petrol 4wd. universal joints ?
can the ruj2100 unijoint be used in place of the ruj2109 ? the only thing i can see is the grease nipple in the uni cap on the ruj2100 and the other is in the middle . some one told me that they are but i havent been able to confirm. any one help ? -
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Has anyone had issues re-installing intake camshaft 5SFE
G'day all, Just thought I'd post the solution to my problem. I had another set of eyes look at my issue (retired mechanic who lives 4 houses down the street), and it also had him stumped after going through removal and install of camshaft. He went home and ended up brain-storming with another mechanic friend (who loves Toyotas), and he said he had seen people install 2 washers under a head bolt and cause this issue. We checked and my son had only used 1 washer, but we found the head of the head bolt stood a few millimeters higher. Once the camshaft journal blocks were torqued down the sprocket came to rest snugly on the head bolt - wow. The new bolts are aftermarket (I have left a review for that product advising of this issue), but I have to stick to a budget, as I am bank-rolling the quick rebuild as it is his first car. So yes everything works as it should now and he can continue to re-assemble it all now. Hope this helps someone else out down the track.- 1
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Toyota Crown GS130 He****
Interesting vehicle. I'd probably remove all the apparatus and find a more recreational use for all that space.. 😜😜- 1
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Current Drain
That fault is pretty common on most modern cars to be honest. I watch a youtuber called "Diagnosis Dan" and the amount of parasitic drain videos he's covered is amazing. You can pretty much find which circuit is causing the drain by using an amp meter and go through and probe each circuit until you see the high amperage draw. On Toyotas particularly, you need to put the car to sleep and wait for around 20 mins, then test. You can simulate this by latching the hood with the hood open and latching the doors if you need any of them to be open during the test. Putting the car to sleep is the first most important step before any diagnosis can occur. Glad you were able to find the fault relatively quickly because not too many mechanics could be bothered with in depth electrical gremlins like a parasitic drain. -
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Park Brake Adjustment
I have to do the parking brake shoes pretty soon, so keep an eye out for my DIY post on that. I was thinking maybe wait until I have to do the fronts and do the backs at the same time. I have a brand new set of Genuine rotors and pads to go into the front and a Genuine service kit for the calipers if required. Also have on hand the new brake shoes, Toyota Genuine Parts too, of course. I'll inspect the rear rotors and pads and see how they're fairing and maybe get those too and just give it the full kahuna and be done with it. -
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Park Brake Adjustment
No e-brake actually. It's a foot operated cable brake. I have yet to try and do the under dash adjustment and to be honest, haven't researched it either. -
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Aircon problem need help
You should try and have your ECU scanned for any stored faults. It could be that either your climate control amplifier or the control module are playing up. Hard to say for sure, but it's worth scanning to see. -
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Anyone had this Issue
I would take a look at the ECU itself. Pull the plugs, inspect them for any corrosion and if possible remove the ECU completely and open it up and see if anything is lurking inside. You could have some corrosion on the main PCB. Not knowing the history of your vehicle, I would guess if you live anywhere near the coastal regions, that moist, salty air can wreak havoc on electricals. You've practically replaced everything that "could" be wrong, but my money is on the ECU. If you find a cheap "spare" ECU at a local wrecker, buy it and keep it as a spare, cos you never know when you'll need one. If you end up using it, it will need to be coded by someone with an appropriate scan/diagnostic tool or laptop with specific software. No big deal. There are plenty around who can provide this service.
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