read this review on o-100 time

[chopin2]

At the biggining of this thread u said u were building a sleeper..

And wanted to chop ppl and them ask ya if its turbo????

Now ur goin the opposite way....???

And then ur tellinmg ppl your car does so and so to a 100...

i can see all that ur saying will end in tears...

After u install the turbo i give u 1 month before u blow the Sh%^& out of ur motor...

no tears mate, I have two mechanics near by that I have known him for 7 years. and they recon, supercharger or turbo they can fitted with no worries. I have mentioned about the compression ration 10.0.1. Basically running 9 psi is max, but must use octane 98 above to avoid dentonation. so this is the latest news. If I can get up to 150kw at the flywheel(120kw at the wheel?). i would be very happy, again, a good driver wins the race in my case-----I have done almost 30 -40 races in 7 years. But thats just the facts.

With the clucth, yes, I forget to add, brass button clutch is the one, My mate use his 127kw(at the wheel) 1989 corrola for 3 years,,,so far so good.

Edited October 30, 2007 by chopin2

[B18civic]

PSI what turbo????

its not about what psi....

Turbo tune fuel are all factors...

9psi on a stock 1zz with a t25 is nothing but if not tuned correctly be prepared to buy or build in a few days time...

Look at xoom's setup...

thats the way it should be done...

Ive know ppl that go Fi in their NA cars with out going the whole 10yards and it always ends in disater...

Mate was using microtech (microwreck) he went through 4 builds....

I did a turbo setup n B18c (did everything but internal build) ran fine in winter but in summer i was very unstable...

heat is a big killer in non factory FI cars....

I spent more than 8k on just parts...

And still didnt run 100% for me..

If ur not goin to put away for internals and lots of hours on a dyno then dont bother mate... the end result wont be a S15 wrx skyline equivalent...

U might aswell sell ur corolla and buy a turbo factory car.. it will be cheaper and more reliable at the end unless ur gona go all the way with ur motor too....

toyota makes great motors but they are designed from factory to be NA....

Plus N/A is so much sweeter with a high reving motor...

N/As can make power u just gotta have the right combo of parts and a good tuner...

its not all about top end power... gear ratios can be adjusted changed to have a very potent N/A monster track and street....

[chopin2]

thanks B18c for your wise words....you scred me now....when I have more money in next two years...see how I go first. I might consider the gear box method.........geared my car jsut for 0-100km/h....heeee

PSI what turbo????

its not about what psi....

Turbo tune fuel are all factors...

9psi on a stock 1zz with a t25 is nothing but if not tuned correctly be prepared to buy or build in a few days time...

Look at xoom's setup...

thats the way it should be done...

Ive know ppl that go Fi in their NA cars with out going the whole 10yards and it always ends in disater...

Mate was using microtech (microwreck) he went through 4 builds....

I did a turbo setup n B18c (did everything but internal build) ran fine in winter but in summer i was very unstable...

heat is a big killer in non factory FI cars....

I spent more than 8k on just parts...

And still didnt run 100% for me..

If ur not goin to put away for internals and lots of hours on a dyno then dont bother mate... the end result wont be a S15 wrx skyline equivalent...

U might aswell sell ur corolla and buy a turbo factory car.. it will be cheaper and more reliable at the end unless ur gona go all the way with ur motor too....

toyota makes great motors but they are designed from factory to be NA....

Plus N/A is so much sweeter with a high reving motor...

N/As can make power u just gotta have the right combo of parts and a good tuner...

its not all about top end power... gear ratios can be adjusted changed to have a very potent N/A monster track and street....

[Suprathai]

Ive know ppl that go Fi in their NA cars with out going the whole 10yards and it always ends in disater...

Mate was using microtech (microwreck) he went through 4 builds....

I did a turbo setup n B18c (did everything but internal build) ran fine in winter but in summer i was very unstable...

If its unstable in summer then wouldn't that be the fault of the tuner?? I'm planning (buying parts at this stage) on bolting on a turbo on my sportivo without touching the internals. But running a sensible amount of boost and a safe tune. Chasing numbers most of the time is what kills your engine I think.

[selyaT]

Sportivo's with bolt on modifications (exhaust, CAI etc) are making 120kW ATW...

You would be spending a lot of money that could be used to buy a proper fast car, as said above. I guess if you want a fast COROLLA then you're doing the right thing but if you want a fast CAR then it's all wrong.

Each to his own

[GAMEON]

Sportivo's with bolt on modifications (exhaust, CAI etc) are making 120kW ATW...

You would be spending a lot of money that could be used to buy a proper fast car, as said above. I guess if you want a fast COROLLA then you're doing the right thing but if you want a fast CAR then it's all wrong.

Each to his own

Its about torque, weight, traction and the driver my car with 90kws atws was getting 14.3 down the quarter mile.

[GAMEON]

Corolla equivalent to a Corvette

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FkP4M5R2RPA

[selyaT]

Its about torque, weight, traction and the driver my car with 90kws atws was getting 14.3 down the quarter mile.

Yeah but in your case three of those four factors are working in your favour

Think of the new model Corolla after the work with the claimed 120kW ATW... Torque would be reasonable, weight a disadvantage, traction a disadvantage, driver...?

Let me add another factor; he probably spent ~$25,000 on the new car, add the $8000(++++++) for all the work, insurance etc. etc. Not to mention the opportunity cost of the forgone resale value after completely customising a new car....

Think he could probably afford the Corvette after all that

[xoom]

most importantly... how are you going to control and tune the duel VVTi?

come on dylan dont ruin it ...... im sure they can re-wire the trd aurion ecu somehow.... i mean its dual vvti right and is boosted so surely we can work something out ......

[SILVABULLIT]

most importantly... how are you going to control and tune the duel VVTi?

come on dylan dont ruin it ...... im sure they can re-wire the trd aurion ecu somehow.... i mean its dual vvti right and is boosted so surely we can work something out ......

Don't Jaycar sell some sort of kit for this?????

[Mintos]

The hatorade is flowing strongly here haha.

You guys need to lay off old mate chopin2 for wanting to take it to his car. You people seem to care more about his car breaking than he does.

So what you blow a motor - buy a new one, the toyota economy motors are cheap and easy to drop in.

The boxes are strong, nothing to cry about there. So what if he doesn't put the right clutch in, he is just going to get clutch slip - boo hoo.

Just because they guy doesn't know everything about ECU's and motor internals doesn't mean he isnt allowed to drive a fast car - he just has to pay.

B18Civic... N/A motors do not have a place in performance unless they are race spec engines or unless alot of revs and/or displacement is involved. No matter how much you 'tune' an N/A 4 cyl street car, it is still going to be 'faster than slow' at best. F/I is hailed for a reason - performance efficiency. Unless you can increase the displacement (ie, put another motor in) you need to look at boost if you want more power.

chopin2, personally I wouldn't be coughing up $8k to that chump rigoli... he is probably just going to look at the engine bay for a few hours, leave the car lying around for a few weeks, then have his apprentice throw something together for you. You could do a good bolt on job for much less depending on who you know that can do fabrication work for you. Have Xoom or someone that knows what is going on have a look at your engine bay and sus out your pipework routes, possible heat issues, etc.

I would say your main problem lies in finding suitable engine management...Autronic isn't worth the money for the application, I would maybe go a Haltec, Microtech probably isn't well suited as you want to stick with MAFs not MAP sensors for a low power job (yes 160kw is lightweight).

In short, I say, don't be a sissy and waste time/money sussing out engine strength, just keep things conservative (a good tuner is vital) and start pushing the boundaries when you are bored and have a replacement motor on standby. This is the best way to learn, not cracking open the motor and hypothesizing about centripetal force encumbrance load of the rods and pressure strength of the pistons. Some douche would probably try and charge you a ****load to do this anyway (enough to buy a new motor if that one breaks).

Get the right tuner, start it conservative and you will be right, just go for it :)

[xoom]

Have Xoom or someone that knows what is going on have a look at your engine bay and sus out your pipework routes, possible heat issues, etc.

more than happy to take a look as i havent taken a good gander under the hood of a new rolla just yet .... come out 2 the next sydney meet ...... hmmmm maybe kebab performance project car #3 ;) ;) ;)

[B18civic]

B18Civic... N/A motors do not have a place in performance unless they are race spec engines or unless alot of revs and/or displacement is involved. No matter how much you 'tune' an N/A 4 cyl street car, it is still going to be 'faster than slow' at best. F/I is hailed for a reason - performance efficiency. Unless you can increase the displacement (ie, put another motor in) you need to look at boost if you want more power.

That is a very ignorant comment to make...

You have obviously been at Binladens for a few years.....

Do a bit of research and you will see that not only in the US but here in AUS theres a ALOT of mildly moded (not race, but street) cars running low 12s N/A

2.4lt and under.

[JAZE55]

B18Civic... N/A motors do not have a place in performance unless they are race spec engines or unless alot of revs and/or displacement is involved. No matter how much you 'tune' an N/A 4 cyl street car, it is still going to be 'faster than slow' at best. F/I is hailed for a reason - performance efficiency. Unless you can increase the displacement (ie, put another motor in) you need to look at boost if you want more power.

That is a very ignorant comment to make...

You have obviously been at Binladens for a few years.....

Do a bit of research and you will see that not only in the US but here in AUS theres a ALOT of mildly moded (not race, but street) cars running low 12s N/A

2.4lt and under.

True True.

You really have to be careful with civics these days. So many K20/K24 conversions on the road its scary, put majority of turbo cars to shame.

[xoom]

moderate power and extremely low weight = all might quick civics ....... there is a crx with a k24 in it running low 12's and i know of a few civics running low 12's high 11's ...... also have seen the extreme from the usa where an all motor honda ran a sub 10 ...... so f/i is not always the way ..... however at that end of the scale making that power and getting those times is very very very expensive in n/a form ..... where as on a force fed car u just turn up the boost ..... or add NOS ..... and boom ur there ..... then again i wonder what the rolla would run if i got her down to 900kg's ...... hmmmmm i wonder if its possible ..... hmmmmm whats in the car thats unnecessary :whistling: :whistling: :whistling:

[JAZE55]

moderate power and extremely low weight = all might quick civics ....... there is a crx with a k24 in it running low 12's and i know of a few civics running low 12's high 11's ...... also have seen the extreme from the usa where an all motor honda ran a sub 10 ...... so f/i is not always the way ..... however at that end of the scale making that power and getting those times is very very very expensive in n/a form ..... where as on a force fed car u just turn up the boost ..... or add NOS ..... and boom ur there ..... then again i wonder what the rolla would run if i got her down to 900kg's ...... hmmmmm i wonder if its possible ..... hmmmmm whats in the car thats unnecessary :whistling: :whistling: :whistling:

That K24 CRX is now dead. Blown motor, belongs to sexc_rolla brother. But hear that its getting resurrected in time.

I love my PS and A/C. Whereas my mates say its just added weight :blink: . Well in summer ill be in nice a/c when they have their windows down

[xoom]

moderate power and extremely low weight = all might quick civics ....... there is a crx with a k24 in it running low 12's and i know of a few civics running low 12's high 11's ...... also have seen the extreme from the usa where an all motor honda ran a sub 10 ...... so f/i is not always the way ..... however at that end of the scale making that power and getting those times is very very very expensive in n/a form ..... where as on a force fed car u just turn up the boost ..... or add NOS ..... and boom ur there ..... then again i wonder what the rolla would run if i got her down to 900kg's ...... hmmmmm i wonder if its possible ..... hmmmmm whats in the car thats unnecessary :whistling: :whistling: :whistling:

That K24 CRX is now dead. Blown motor, belongs to sexc_rolla brother. But hear that its getting resurrected in time.

I love my PS and A/C. Whereas my mates say its just added weight :blink: . Well in summer ill be in nice a/c when they have their windows down

well given the status of my current A/C i might be joining them with the windows down :( :( :( ...... man i need to get that leaking A/C pipe fixed ..... on the 2 do list .......

[chopin2]

thanks to your all, especially to Xoom and Minto.

My friends in Brisbance has a jdm b16a(1992 model0 has done 200000km, He just bought a t28 second hand turbo kits for it. I am waiting to hear his set up and I know with b16a the compression is higher 11;0;1, at this stage, I dnt think he is going to decompress the engine .

My mate 89 corrola run 12 psi-127kw at the wheel...I thinks its 900kg body. He beats all evos (0-100-120 all the way)in evo club except one.

With my car, how about run low boost 4 psi for a start, before I go near the boundry. This is a bolt on only. I get MAF sensor right?

[$ANGELO$]

good on you for wanting to go turbo.. i agree with most people that it would probably be cheaper, more reliable and so on to buy a factory turbo car but at the end of the day you want something different that no one else has.. if you are serious about this and have the money im sure alot of the members in your area will be willing to give you a hand with it..

[Mintos]

B18Civic... N/A motors do not have a place in performance unless they are race spec engines or unless alot of revs and/or displacement is involved. No matter how much you 'tune' an N/A 4 cyl street car, it is still going to be 'faster than slow' at best. F/I is hailed for a reason - performance efficiency. Unless you can increase the displacement (ie, put another motor in) you need to look at boost if you want more power.

That is a very ignorant comment to make...

You have obviously been at Binladens for a few years.....

Do a bit of research and you will see that not only in the US but here in AUS theres a ALOT of mildly moded (not race, but street) cars running low 12s N/A

2.4lt and under.

Eh... read carefully bud. Replacing parts of the motor is not tuning, that is modifying parts (intakes/headers/cams/plenums, etc) - 'Tuning' refers to ECU adjustment and I was pointing out that no matter how much you 'tune' a small N/A street motor it isn't going to be quick.

And yes I am aware there are many die hard Honda boys who get kicks out of turning their car into a shell and running quick times with pissant power output. I wouldn't call not having half a functioning car 'mildly modded'. These people should go and fap over initial D some more or something.

My post was making a point - chopin2 doesn't want performance that is situation dependent (can't have air-con, can't have back seats, can't have sound deadening, can't have airbags, wind has to be running with you, can't have doors :P) so stripping his car and running with a 'tuned' 100kw atw standard N/A motor is just a retarded suggestion, mmmk?

[B18civic]

I totally agree.. stripping out a car to run quik times is only lying to ur self bout ur cars performance......

I dont even remove the rubbish from my car when i go to the drags....

All the times i have run are as if my car was on the street,,,, 25psi in my tyres aswell...

Getting a N/A car to go faster may cost more....

But the sound a motor makes at 8000 - 9000rpm is music to any 4cyl fan!!!!

[xoom]

But the sound a motor makes at 8000 - 9000rpm is music to any 4cyl fan!!!!

the sound a GT2871 spooling to over 17psi is enough music 4 me to enjoy :spiteful: :spiteful:

[chopin2]

ok, ok thanks to you all. specially Minto and b18c. I just got news for my friends with b16a compression 10:4:1(sorry not 11:1). with his set up, t28 aimming 140kw at the wheel. NO decompression required. Thats also means with my 10:0:1 is an easy task. However, the TUNNING is the most important part to either blow /or not to blow up the moto.

I want my car with quite and good ride quality, of course, I want ALL seats IN........and aircon I dnt want more revs...I have done before 8000-9000 ,,,,but too much noise now and I am getting old....haaa

and its time to enjoy something different 8psi?

stay tune...