my gears crunch when going into 2nd

[black turkey]

hey guys, this has been happening for a while and only after not having my car for a while and forgetting about it have i remembered to ask about it (make sense?). anyway, ever since i replaced my cars clutch, it has been hard to get into 2nd from 3rd and it crunches. it ONLY happemed when downshifting into 2nd and ONLY happened when the car is cold and i shift into the gear casually (i.e driving to school in the morning i drive slowly through my neighborhood), it wont crunch if its warm or if its cold and i quickly and spiritally chenge gears to 2nd.

so any help will be wicked. my dad reckons he doesnt notice it and there is no problem. but it definately wasnt there before i got the new clutch

[striker8881]

may your pedal needs to be adjusted

that happened to mine

the pin on the pedal where you adjust came loose and just kept going lower so my clutch was activating as much

so check that your brake pedal and clutch pedal are in line with eachother

mine did the same

it got really hard to change

now its fine

but sometimes if i try to change from first to second when i floored it and it gets to about 6000 revs it crunches into gear

annoying if i try go

haha

but oh well

[black turkey]

ok sweet ill give it a shot. also its not worth making another thread but do anyone of you guys get (i think its called) axle tramping? its when you try or accidently do a burnout it feels like **** and the car shakes like the tyre gets grip and looses it all the time? it even happened when the place i works carpark is soaking wet.

[striker8881]

haha

and the car like jumps up and down?

lol

its **** shocks dude

mine did do it

there on their way out

i replaced mine

and they went hey

never again

now its nice and smooth

not that iv tryed

[black turkey]

so if i go ahead and chuck king lows (or super lows?) will that be like replacing my suspension or is it a different part? i thought it was cos my car hadnt got enough power to pull a burnout but my sisters festiva could do it lol. so would lowering my car with king springs solve both issues (burnout thing and lowering the car)?

[striker8881]

not exactly springs more shock absorbers

but yer

go kings springs and they'll put shocks in to

wel they better

that should cure it =]]

[Guest]

It also could be your syncros...

Mine are going on third (sometimes it grinds going into third) aparantly 2nd and 3rd syncros are a common problem with ST184/ST185 celicas

ok sweet ill give it a shot. also its not worth making another thread but do anyone of you guys get (i think its called) axle tramping? its when you try or accidently do a burnout it feels like **** and the car shakes like the tyre gets grip and looses it all the time? it even happened when the place i works carpark is soaking wet.

That sounds like axel tramp to me;

What size rims and tyres are on the celica, and how good is your clutch?

Edited April 11, 2008 by mick.wheelz

[black turkey]

how serious is the problem if its my syncros?

my rims are 16" and the tyre size is 205/50/16. and the clutch has about 10k km on it.

[striker8881]

im a mechanic

and ill tell you im about

95% sure its shocks

cause i had it

and when i did my shocks done it was gone

[black turkey]

cool then. ill put shocks on my to do list. you reckon its a DIY job fitting the king lows? or should i fork out to someone who knows what their doing

[striker8881]

if you have a spring compressor go ahead

otherwise

strip the shocks off

go to a mechanic

and say

put these in

make sure you get shocks for lowered vehicles

i made that mistakes

blew my pistons in them

[black turkey]

how can i tell if they are for lowered vehicles?

[striker8881]

they're shorter

cause

think about it

a normal car

normal shocks

shocks have like a chamber inside

with a piston

so if you lower the car

you take away room for the piston to move

so if you hit a pot hole

BANG

the piston hits the bottom

lowered pistons are shortened with a longer chamber

but king springs should have them

or head over to pedders or something hey

either one

[black turkey]

oh ok i see, sorry im a newby in this area. so if i go to a place that sells and fits a full kit that lowers my car (for example whatever you buy when you get a kings super low kit) ill get everything i need (which i would expect) and this most probably fix my axle tramping ****. sounds good but i remembered one problem.

when i go over bumps (not speed bumps, but sudden rises in the road) or if i hit over a dip at a high speed, the outside of my tyre hits against the egdge of the fender where the wheel goes (?). what i mean is that the tyres i have which are 205.50.16 stick out of the wheel arch by about half a centimetre and when the car hits a bump big enough, the trye hits against the edge of the wheel arch. the suspension doesnt bottom out that i know of, cos inside the wheel arch there is lots more room for the tyre to rise.

so if i lower my car this problem will get worse wouldnt it?

[striker8881]

yer id say get your guards flared aswel at a panel beater =]

thats like $200 i think

not to bad

[alloo]

since you said the problem started after clutch changed and when its cold,the problem is more likely because of thicker oil has been used.

on ST184 using Dextron 3 is more than enough,if doesn't help than it is time to change synchro...but if you happy enough to wait until it warm up then don't worry unless it getting really bad.

with axle trampling also possible that the engine mount getting sloppy,put urethane or silicon...may increase the engine vibration though or you may like to replace it.

or course it possible that the shocker gone since ST184 strut a bit ****ty,but usually the car will be all over the place and feel woolly like French car

[black turkey]

how silly would the look with flared guards tho lol. ill just give lowering it a miss, i dont wanna do it if its that much hassle.

are engine mounts a part that would be changed when a motor is changed? or is it on the car?

[striker8881]

the mounts bolt to both the car and the engine

so if you change then engine to a different engine

you will be changing all the mounts and moving

which might be modifying the crossmember

[KaZe-]

hey does anyone know how much syncros would cost for for our cars??

[black turkey]

the mounts bolt to both the car and the engine

so if you change then engine to a different engine

you will be changing all the mounts and moving

which might be modifying the crossmember

yeah its the same type of motor just its been replaced. si its a different motor but the same engine. so its a 50% chance if they use the old mounts to the new ones isnt it?

[striker8881]

all depends on the state they were in

if they were alright state they may use them

but i highly doubt its the mounts

[black turkey]

okay then. im gonna go around to places tommorrow to see how i will go about getting new springs and maybe lowering (depending on whats happening with the tyre problem) it. but i have to buy new back tyres now at the moment cos some **** head stabbed my cars tyres and the car next to mines with a drill or something while at school.

[striker8881]

cheer up at l;east there not $180 tires like mine =D

hahahahaa

[black turkey]

well i wanted to end up with eagle F1's all round but they are only on the front and i was gonna just move the fron tones to the back when the time comes and get more. but im poor and food is more important that rubber... unless i can go to my parents house for food hmmm

[CORONA RT104]

Syncro cost stuff all, even at toyta's inflated spare parts prices $100 would more that cover it. It is huge job to change them though. Sometimes not possible to do correctly when DIY as you need special tools.

hey does anyone know how much syncros would cost for for our cars??