HELP..2004 sportivo wont start after running out of fuel!!

[dazbuster]

ok....i rebuilt (complete new from firewall forward) a wrecked sportivo and on friday i turned the key and she started first time...

had blowing exhaust due to bend downpipe but she was running and the neighbours were not impressed s the silver bullet did fly'sbys ha ha

sat arvo i dodged up the exhaust and then it ran out of fuel in driveway................i driained battery trying to start it so gave up for the night...

1. today i put fuel in but it just starts then dies straight away?..it gets to idle for about 2 seconds then dies....

2. went to jaycar , lucky they open sun days and bought a obdII scan tool (which wont work and gives "link error")

3. did the jumpcable thing in the diagnostic socket and get ( if i reading corectly) 5 flashes then 1 flash. which according to this diagnostic codes list says its ........

SWITCH SIGNALS

IDL (tps) CONTACTS OFF, NEUTRAL START SWITCH OFF, A/C SWITCH "ON" SIGNAL TO ECU

WITH DIAGNOSTIC CHECK CONNECTOR SHORTED

--A/C SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--A/C AMPLIFIER

--TPS/CIRCUIT

--NEUTRAL START SWITCH/CIRCUIT

--ECU

well as its a manual i have ruled out the neutral start switch..and i dnt think as faulty a/c wuld stop fuel..

my girl has a 05 corolla so i unplugged her transponder from harness to see if it had same symptoms but hers gets no fuel at all????

please help, i was about to upload pic of completed repair for u guys too (see my other posts)

p.s i am in perth if any one local works at toyota?

[mrs.sportivo]

LOL well, i dont think it would have anything to do with the battery - because my stivo ran out and 2 days later the immobiliser (?) went off and wouldnt stfu which also happened to my other friend whos got a toyota when he ran out of battery

so shrugs, i dont know im not a mechanic guy u see LOL but hopefully that rules out something ?

maybe you didnt pour enough petrol or you got something wrong with that part of the car - does the petrol tank say its empty or full now ?

[One-pager]

Aww bugger, i wanted to see photos of the completed Sportivo half-cut.

[CHA54]

code 51 is generally the TPS out of adjustment and not engaging the idle switch properly. Easy to fix with a multimeter and a feeler guage. That shouldn't effect the starting and running though, mainly just the idle and deceleration/overrun fuel cut.

I can't remember if you can bridge the fuel pump via the diags plug, or if you need the toyota IT tool to energise the pump with the ignition on. Sounds like you'll need to reprime the pump/filter though. Worst case you could feed 12V to the pump connector under the rear seat for 30 sec to a minute, blue wire is 12V and black is ground.

[bonbon]

doesn't turning the key to "on" prime the system?

my old cars use to do it, can't hear the pump in the corolla so i'm not sure if it does it

[dazbuster]

code 51 is generally the TPS out of adjustment and not engaging the idle switch properly. Easy to fix with a multimeter and a feeler guage. That shouldn't effect the starting and running though, mainly just the idle and deceleration/overrun fuel cut.

I can't remember if you can bridge the fuel pump via the diags plug, or if you need the toyota IT tool to energise the pump with the ignition on. Sounds like you'll need to reprime the pump/filter though. Worst case you could feed 12V to the pump connector under the rear seat for 30 sec to a minute, blue wire is 12V and black is ground.

was thinking that too, i got a spare pump set up from shed..(from levin wagon)..it has 2 fuel pipes from it where as my sportivo hatch has only one??? i will pull the lot out and change just the pump and see i that works??

seems strange that i can chop up 2 cars, put all together and starts first time and drives...then runs out of fuel and now i had 2 days of confusion? i have a spare levin enginesitting here so have plenty of sensors/spares to change for trial and error its just a pain in the ***** fiding what to swap?

today the engine light lashes read.........1.....5......4????????????????

[CHA54]

the 2 second prime isn't enough if you've run it dry.

I'd prime the current setup and see how it goes before pulling everything apart. Also disconnect the battery or use the scan tool to clear the currently stored codes.

[dazbuster]

....

something to say mate????

i realised i am missing the vaccuum switching valve for evap? i think....it plugs into brown 2 pin plug between battery and air box. i have a spare vac switch for charcoal canister but unsure of vaccuum lines flow? corolla manual does not show??

anyone with sportivo want to look for me? there is a tiny vaccuum tube coming of air intake (after throttle body) where does it go?

[bonbon]

....

something to say mate????

i realised i am missing the vaccuum switching valve for evap? i think....it plugs into brown 2 pin plug between battery and air box. i have a spare vac switch for charcoal canister but unsure of vaccuum lines flow? corolla manual does not show??

anyone with sportivo want to look for me? there is a tiny vaccuum tube coming of air intake (after throttle body) where does it go?

block that off and just tape up that plug, it's to control the flap on the stock airbox

we do it when we replace the stock system with a new intake

Edited October 20, 2008 by bonbon

[jaybee]

In the diagnostic plug, to give the fuel pump constant 12v, short out the Fp and B+ pins. At lease that'll rule out the pump. Fuel pumps don't generally like pumping air. A guy I worked with a while ago blew up a pump by bench testing it without a fuel feed.

And also pull out the EFI fuse for 15 secs to clear codes in the ECU memory and then start again.

[dazbuster]

In the diagnostic plug, to give the fuel pump constant 12v, short out the Fp and B+ pins. At lease that'll rule out the pump. Fuel pumps don't generally like pumping air. A guy I worked with a while ago blew up a pump by bench testing it without a fuel feed.

And also pull out the EFI fuse for 15 secs to clear codes in the ECU memory and then start again.

i ran 12v to the fuel pump direct and still same problem,but i already checked fuel flow to injectors yesterday, i did notice the blue plug going to the vac switch (sits between airboxand charcoal canister) has no ground?? in the plug it has a 12v and if i use test light it grounds thru my test light as a circuit...

following the harness shows the injectors are on same branch so i a guessing they not grounded either...som the fuel pup relay squirts some fuel up the line, then engine starts but injectors are not injecting???

kinda makes sense but its so close to the battery/grounds it seems not right...but i realised i left the 2 engine/gearbox ground straps off so i got excited and fitted them but still the same start then die:(

so come on sportivo boys.....whats the brown plug for? i checked my girls 05 ascent and no plug?

[bonbon]

read my reply, i told you its to control a valve on the airbox, you don't need it

[dazbuster]

ok....after a week solid of checking everything i finally gave up and called RAC (mentioned nothing about massive accident repair) basically i was driving, ran out of fuel in driveway and now wont run (BUT STARTS THEN DIES)....rac man comes............

1. tells me injectors are 100% running...(without removing engine cover).

2. tells me if he tows it to rac morley branch they will 100% fix it and if not they will call in some local efi guru............

3. next day they call telling me the car has been in crash soi they cant touch it???

4. "the airbag has been replaced so engine wont start"!!!!!!!!!!!!!! F##%CK@@ING clowns.....i explain that i was doing laps in street without airbag and they say thats why it ran out of fuel?!?!?!?!

5. apparantly LEGALLY they cant even look at any car thats been in a crash???!!? they do not seem to understand that i fitted FULL new front (windcreen forward) to car and it started first time .....AND DROVE WELL) then ran out of fuel .........COCKHEADS.

my girl has a 05 ascent so i will disconnect every sensor /relay one by one til i get same problem then i will know

OR ANY GOOD AUTO ELECTRICAINS IN PERTH WHO ARE MOBILE TO CHECK IT OUT IN BEECHBORO..I NOT CHASING MATES RATES OR FRREBIES...WILL PAY WHATEVER IT COSTS TO GET THE BLLODY THING GOING...i have 4 cars and a new yamaha R1 but the only one thats licensed wont start:?(

[T.J]

sounds like the biggest can of worms this thing.

just find a good auto sparky and get it towed to them no point speculating whats gone wrong cause anything could have shorted out or been damaged enough to work momentarily but not for very long and looking under the bonnet of an ascent isnt going to help you none cause of obvious engine differences seriously let a pro handle it and save yourself the headache

[dazbuster]

sounds like the biggest can of worms this thing.

just find a good auto sparky and get it towed to them no point speculating whats gone wrong cause anything could have shorted out or been damaged enough to work momentarily but not for very long and looking under the bonnet of an ascent isnt going to help you none cause of obvious engine differences seriously let a pro handle it and save yourself the headache

update.....

found a mobile efi diagnostics/tune guy...

called him up and agreed 100 calkl out and 90 per hour...

he looks at car (bonnet closed) and decides immobiliser fault? says its pure coincidence that after i ran out of fuel, the immobiliser dies too?? ***** head,

i get him to check injectors and sure enough they run then die.

then he calls toyota (i stand with him and fone on speaker) toyota tell him to check spark plug/igniter leads maybe not feeding back to ecu so it stops the injectors..

i search this site and find the pin outs etc and even show him the error codes and how to access them with jumper lead (pins 4 - 7)

then he decides i should take to toyota and trys to charge me 190 bucks hahahahahahahahahahha

thanks to this site i know more than the mobile electic man

***** head

[CHA54]

ok...

Does the security light go out when you put the key in the ignition? If it goes out then the immobiliser isn't the problem.

If it continues to flash you have an issue with the immobiliser.

The IGf signal is the ignition confirmation signal, all four IGF pins splice into one wire that goes back to the ECU. This is basically a confimation for every ignition event so the ECU can determine if there's a coilpack fault. If there's missing IGf signals for multiple ignition events then the ECU will shut down to protect the engine.

Edited November 7, 2008 by rollamods

[dazbuster]

ok...

Does the security light go out when you put the key in the ignition? If it goes out then the immobiliser isn't the problem.

If it continues to flash you have an issue with the immobiliser.

The IGf signal is the ignition confirmation signal, all four IGF pins splice into one wire that goes back to the ECU. This is basically a confimation for every ignition event so the ECU can determine if there's a coilpack fault. If there's missing IGf signals for multiple ignition events then the ECU will shut down to protect the engine.

yep security light does go out when key inserted..all good.

upon pulling wiring plugs from igniter's i noticed the black/white lead (both igniter plug and spark plug connector on all 4 was wet? and green deposits like on weathered copper....cleaned it off, applied wd40 but still same problem

i reading info on net that if airbags deploy then fuel is cut off via a solenoid?? (i fitted new airbag while fuel was empty...and was previously test driving with no airbag at all if this makes a difference)?...but corolla manual has no reference to such a soleniod??

i knowits easy to let toyota fix it but when u guys see the massive repair i have done u will understand why i want to totally complete the job:)