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Resetting the ECU


Northy

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sometimes when starting to accelerate up hill my enging use to knock.... or ping.... i use to take foot off accelerator and re apply accelerator... this usually fixed it... it that considered an error code? would i benefit from performing an ecu reset or just leave it as it is...

re: rolla mods

thanks :idea:

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yup afaik it happens to all stivos

just keep pressing it n eventually it will return to normal  :)

yup press button till window gets to bottom...keep holding for 2 seconds.

pull button to push window up....kepp holding for 2 seconds once at top..

Problem SOLVERED!!

Hehe .. wicked! Thanks Danthuyer! problemo fixxxedd!

Cheers!

L.

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Hey mate,

The ecu is generally quite slow to pick up on changes after the first 400km (the learning stage). Once you have made a modification it is worth while doing a reset. It won't hurt your car in any way and will only increase your performance, not reduce it.

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  • 11 months later...
Hi Guys,

New to the site(came from OZ Celica).

Just wondering if this applies to older Celicas aswell? As in the 1986 SX models?

Cheers

Andrew

G'day, I believe it does, all ECU's are intelligent !

can't do any harm anyway !

cheers

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

so obviously this works with the current model celica???? which would explain alot.

i just did a major service on mine the fuel filter which had never been changed transfluid coolant plugs maf sensor belts you name it i did it. i disconnected the battery coz the fuel level was reading empty on a full tank after i changed the filter and i left it off for half the day, when i finished i started it up and it idled rough as hell to the point it stalled out, but it gradually got better and better, but the missus was hell bent on sending it to bayside performance services for a scan and re-flash by the time we got there a few days later it was idling properly but running rich (plenty of brown smoke coming from the exhaust) dare i say now from reading this do ya's think it would've corrected itself? was it learning from my driving habbits? coz i thought was the injectors fouled up so i put a treatment through it and flogged the absolute crap out of it. hence why it was running rich?......

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...

If the Toyota ECUs are anythling like the Nissan ones, which I believe they're then there is a much quicker way to re-set the ECU without the need to disconnect the battery or wait around for 30 minutes.

This is the process that is applicable to Nissan's:

1. Start up your car and allow it to warm up to its normal idle.

2. Next turn off the engine.

3. Locate the fuse box located under the bonnet and next to the battery. Pull out the 3 fuses: ENG CONT1 (15A), ENG CONT2 (10A), ENG CONT3 (20A). Keep the fuses out for at least 5 minutes. This will cut all power to the ECU.

4. Plug the fuses back in and close the bonnet.

5. Start your car making sure NOT TO TOUCH THE ACCELERATOR WHEN YOU START IT UP. This is very important.

6. Let the car idle at its normal idle speed for about 4 minutes, then turn off your engine.

7. Start your car again and you're done.

Removing the above-mentioned fuses directly cuts power to the ECU even with the battery connected.

I have to check and see if there are similar fuses in the Corolla fuse box that correspond to the ECU, as that's all that is needed.

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If the Toyota ECUs are anythling like the Nissan ones, which I believe they're then there is a much quicker way to re-set the ECU without the need to disconnect the battery or wait around for 30 minutes.

This is the process that is applicable to Nissan's:

1. Start up your car and allow it to warm up to its normal idle.

2. Next turn off the engine.

3. Locate the fuse box located under the bonnet and next to the battery. Pull out the 3 fuses: ENG CONT1 (15A), ENG CONT2 (10A), ENG CONT3 (20A). Keep the fuses out for at least 5 minutes. This will cut all power to the ECU.

4. Plug the fuses back in and close the bonnet.

5. Start your car making sure NOT TO TOUCH THE ACCELERATOR WHEN YOU START IT UP. This is very important.

6. Let the car idle at its normal idle speed for about 4 minutes, then turn off your engine.

7. Start your car again and you're done.

Removing the above-mentioned fuses directly cuts power to the ECU even with the battery connected.

I have to check and see if there are similar fuses in the Corolla fuse box that correspond to the ECU, as that's all that is needed.

That's easier?

I thought disconnecting one cable is much much easier..

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If the Toyota ECUs are anythling like the Nissan ones, which I believe they're then there is a much quicker way to re-set the ECU without the need to disconnect the battery or wait around for 30 minutes.

This is the process that is applicable to Nissan's:

1. Start up your car and allow it to warm up to its normal idle.

2. Next turn off the engine.

3. Locate the fuse box located under the bonnet and next to the battery. Pull out the 3 fuses: ENG CONT1 (15A), ENG CONT2 (10A), ENG CONT3 (20A). Keep the fuses out for at least 5 minutes. This will cut all power to the ECU.

4. Plug the fuses back in and close the bonnet.

5. Start your car making sure NOT TO TOUCH THE ACCELERATOR WHEN YOU START IT UP. This is very important.

6. Let the car idle at its normal idle speed for about 4 minutes, then turn off your engine.

7. Start your car again and you're done.

Removing the above-mentioned fuses directly cuts power to the ECU even with the battery connected.

I have to check and see if there are similar fuses in the Corolla fuse box that correspond to the ECU, as that's all that is needed.

That's easier?

I thought disconnecting one cable is much much easier..

It's faster. Unless you wanna sit around and wait 30 minutes for the battery to cut power to the ECU :)

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If the Toyota ECUs are anythling like the Nissan ones, which I believe they're then there is a much quicker way to re-set the ECU without the need to disconnect the battery or wait around for 30 minutes.

This is the process that is applicable to Nissan's:

1. Start up your car and allow it to warm up to its normal idle.

2. Next turn off the engine.

3. Locate the fuse box located under the bonnet and next to the battery. Pull out the 3 fuses: ENG CONT1 (15A), ENG CONT2 (10A), ENG CONT3 (20A). Keep the fuses out for at least 5 minutes. This will cut all power to the ECU.

4. Plug the fuses back in and close the bonnet.

5. Start your car making sure NOT TO TOUCH THE ACCELERATOR WHEN YOU START IT UP. This is very important.

6. Let the car idle at its normal idle speed for about 4 minutes, then turn off your engine.

7. Start your car again and you're done.

Removing the above-mentioned fuses directly cuts power to the ECU even with the battery connected.

I have to check and see if there are similar fuses in the Corolla fuse box that correspond to the ECU, as that's all that is needed.

That's easier?

I thought disconnecting one cable is much much easier..

It's faster. Unless you wanna sit around and wait 30 minutes for the battery to cut power to the ECU :)

I don't seem to have a problem with having to wait around for 30 minutes..

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  • 3 weeks later...
Well, that is your choice. Others may want it done faster and it's an option.

You also won't have to worry about re-setting the radio stations and re-entering the PIN code for the head unit (if there is one)

after doing "shire.zre" quick reset, do I require to run it's ***** off to relearn the ecu?

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  • 3 months later...
The purpose of "resetting" and ECU is to clear error codes when there's a problem.

that being said, if you reset the ECU, the problem will still persist correct?

I may have a possible MAF sensor problem or an ECU electrical problem which is affecting my acceleration. So will resetting the ECU fix these problems or will it just simply be a "patch" and hide any underlying problems which is what i dont want to do.

cheers,

Edited by private number
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The purpose of "resetting" and ECU is to clear error codes when there's a problem.

that being said, if you reset the ECU, the problem will still persist correct?

Only if the problem still persists. If you get an error code then fix the problem, the error code will remain there for some distance (like 50-100km) before automatically clearing itself. Forcefully clearing it gets rid of it quicker. Useful when you get a check engine light as a result.

Eg. I once started my car with the MAF unplugged. As a result, my check engine light lit up. I then realised what I did and stopped the engine and plugged it back in. I then started the car again and even after 30km of driving, the check engine light was still on. I reset the ECU... problem solved.

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  • 2 weeks later...
ok i finally got round to re-setting my ECU 2day

and i must say i have noticed a little bit of positive performance gain not a great lot but least

there was some...

Does any one know how to upgrade power? by resetting the ECU? my car is TOYOTA CHASER TOURER V.

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Does any one know how to upgrade power? by resetting the ECU? my car is TOYOTA CHASER TOURER V.

There are many ways you can get more power out of your car, but resetting your ECU is not one of them. If you want to get more power, you will have to start doing work to your engine. What is your budget?

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  • 11 months later...

Thanks heaps, this worked fine for me.

I'm pretty sure that engine light coming on is a result of my wife's many short trips of 2 to 3 kilometres, just idling around 8 times a day.. That light came on 2 weeks ago when I was away and a Mechanic charged $540 to replace one ignition coil and 4 spark plugs (After quoting $900 to replace 4 coils), at 49,500Km ..... Then the frigging light came back on 2 days later. (49500K) I feel like I've been had, after trusting him to do the right thing .. Not comfortable with him any more.

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  • 4 months later...

the ECU is constantly adjusting it's parameters. "Resetting" it just makes it start from scratch again, and it learns it's way back to how it was... depending on your fuel and driving style etc etc. You do not have to reset the ECU when you modify the vehicle, it will learn over a couple of hundred K's.

The purpose of "resetting" and ECU is to clear error codes when there's a problem.

But....What is it exactly what it learns? Which is going to be the difference for the ECU if my driving style is more or less agressive?

Thanks!

AB

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It will adapt to how you drive for example you got a heavy foot you do 13L per 100k's get a grandma driving your car with a resetted ecu given the fact shes not a hoon, she would be something like 8-9literes per 100ks, it learns on how much fuel to release etc, But from experience i reacon its the biggest waste of time unless your clearing an error code :)

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