Jump to content

99 Camry - "Big 3" Electrical Upgrade

moh.vze.com

By moh.vze.com
in Camry Club

 Share

Recommended Posts

moh.vze.com Advancing

moh.vze.com

Posted
Posted

G'day mate! I"m from the States ;)

I am thinking about upgrading my Electrical System to 0 Gauge wires.

For those of you who don't know what the Big 3 is...

How to do the Big III

The Big III is a simple electrical upgrade for any vehicle to improve a better electrical charge from the alternator to the battery. Your stock electrical system consists of 3, or more, wires hence the term “Big III”. These are the main wires for your electrical charging system. The actual “upgrade” is we are adding a thicker gauge wire to the system.

*Notice I said add and not replace, reason behind this is the current will automatically take the path of least resistance, easier to do. You are more than welcome to replace all wires but be sure you do it properly otherwise you could harm the ECU.

The 3 wires are:

- Positive from battery to positive from alternator

- Negative from battery to ground

- Engine block to ground

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=13280

Hopefully there are some people on here with my type of car that knows what it is.

For those of you who have done this with my type of car, where did you ground? Was there a specific existing place that you grounded to so that you didn't have to drill any holes? Also, where on the engine block did you connect your wire?
Whip Cracker Grand Master

Whip Cracker

Posted
Posted (edited)

G,day mate, welcome to the Aussie forums :) Did Adam send you over here? Lol

I've seen this done on a couple of cars... didn't bother with my own, coz I don't have an issue :P

Alternator, Engine and Chassis... sounds good.

I ended up running an EXTRA earth cable to my chassis for my sound system. I replaced with Stinger Pos and Neg terminals and Distribution blocks. The extra Earth I ran went to a hole I found on the side of the bonnet... weird place (horizontal and all). It's next to the battery/fuse box, on the chassis... not on the inside of the engine bay, but up on the top. I have some double sided padded tape to stop the connection getting wet.

I didn't notice any difference... mind you, I never had a problem in the first place :P This was more just future-proofing just in case.

Edited by Whip Cracker
STYLSH Grand Master

STYLSH

Posted
Posted

I think i grounded my 0 gauge somewhere under or near the battery tray. There was just an unused bolt hole there that I used.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 1

      Turboed Corolla Overbuilt?

      that engine will be fine, the rods are the main thing to be concerned about. The 2860 is a decent turbo for the 1zz but in this day and age I'd go for a G25-550. The injectors might be on the small side, we run DW1000's. You need a full length injector, the shorter injectors with adaptors like ID1050x dont fit the 1zz head. You don't need an aftermarket intake manifold, if you do go down that path, avoid the CNC innovations unit, it's garbage. Do the boost control with a MAC valve and control it with the aftermarket ECU of your choice, I use Link stuff on most of my builds with the G4x Storm as the minimum. I also wire a fuel pressure sensor and oil pressure sensor to the ECU in my installs. Use a decent intercooler, the better cores (ARE, PWR, Garrett, Vibrant, Plazmaman, Hypertune) work a lot better than the chinese stuff like Aeroflow. a 450x250-300 fits fairly well with custom end tanks to route the cooler pipes through next to the radiator Don't forget about the clutch and gearbox. These days I like the Uniclutch twinplate, Above 300whp you'll want to think about upgrading the 3rd and 4th gears in the box also with the SSC (Hollinger) gear set and install an LSD of your choice. If you're going to give it a hard time, you'll also want an oil cooler. I like the HKS thermostat type sandwich plates and setrab or mocal oil coolers with -10 speedflow fittings/lines (Chinese AN fittings neck down to a lot smaller internal diameter in their bends, not great for flow) You'll also want to think about brakes, Celica or Sportivo front calipers will bolt on with sportivo discs as a starting point. To have somewhere like Tunehouse do the work you'll want to budget somewhere between 20-40K
      CHA54 in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    2. 3

      Camry Touring 2010 Fuel consumption 15.2L/100km. Normal?

      I did the mathematics myself regarding costs vs benefits for fuel injector cleaner. I have changed from 91ULP to 95PULP and 98PULP. Price difference can be about 13 -20 cents. Compared to 91ULP, Premium quality fuel should have a better quality additive package designed to have superior engine cleaning capabilities so the engine can perform at their best.
      campbeam in Camry Club
    3. 3

      Camry Touring 2010 Fuel consumption 15.2L/100km. Normal?

      "Fuel injector cleaner is a waste of money" Only if you by the cheap crap if you use LiquMolly a German Product it does work and you won't waste your Money.
      Aussie Camry in Camry Club
    4. 0

      Camry Touring 2010 A/C Issues.

      Hi Guys, My Camry 2010 Touring just had a regas done on it and the next day for some reason it wasn't blowing cold air but the next day it is now working with nice cold air BUT every now and then we can hear and feel a like a buzz for a few secounds and today while my sister took my I could her like a mild knock sound when stopped but goes away when driving. Any idea what this could be and the A/C is always working now for now.
      Aussie Camry in Camry Club
    5. 6

      My Toys & Collectables

      Friday the 13th added
      L4WL3SS in Club Lounge
    6. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

      i am in sydney, just got 1992 tarago, same problem, 2k idle speed when engine warm, changed the whole throttle body, ECU, still same, help pls in sydney 0405987988
      moxabest in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    7. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

      i have same problem, already changed throttle body, ecm modle, help pls
      moxabest in Inside and Out
    8. 0

      Tow bar

      Hi guys, Just bought my new Landcruiser Prado yesterday. What is the difference between Onroad Towner and Off road Towbar
      Kiru in Prado Club
    9. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Generally, yes. In the 60s, and earlier, there were cars with positive grounds, so I'm always a bit hesitant to say the negative wire. It is always the one that bolts to the body. Herb
      ozieagle in Landcruiser Club
    10. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

      Hi everyone, I have a 2011 Land Cruiser VDJ200 with a 1VD-FTV engine. I recently had the engine fully overhauled due to a blown head gasket. However, after the overhaul, the engine is not starting. It only cranks but doesn't fire. I've checked the following DTC codes: Internal memory EEPROM error Low rail pressure The actual rail pressure data shows: 240 bar during cranking 61 bar when ignition is off Based on these findings, I suspect the following potential causes: =Defective Diesel High-Pressure Pump =Leaking Piezoelectric Injectors =Diesel Fuel Bypassing to the DPF Circuit =Faulty Injector Drivers I'm hoping for some expert advice to help diagnose and resolve this problem I'm seeking expert advice on how to troubleshoot and resolve this issue. Any suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
      kevin200 in Landcruiser Club
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums

News

Membership