Sway bars

[rox45s]

Does anyone know where i can get front and rear sway bars without having to wait for them to be made up. I wanna get them tomorrow, and whiteline said that hey can make em up for me? I just can't wait. And also, is it better to get the front or back sway bars. I wanna get one at a time coz i'm pretty low on cash. I just want better handling.

[shaohaok]

solid/hollow - of course, makes a huge difference. The question thou is - for the knowledgeable in physics - where do the forces concentrate (sway bar acts like a spring).

As for materials -- I'm sure there are lots of different steels with different "spring rates".

Progress has additional triangle reinforcements strengthening the joint between the horizontal bar and vertical mounting "sockets"...

TRD and Hotchkis snap all the time. Read user feedback on matrixowners.com. It just needs a good milage to break.

enligtened?

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nope. coz now u're saying solid/hollow makes a huge difference when previously "stiffness depends more on material than being solid/hollow". and so now u're implying that u're the knowledgeable one in physics?

[imek]

Hey, whats wrong with you, man? Why are you picking on me again. Did I insult anybody again?

I didn't say i'm know physics. I was just wondering what parts of the bar transfer the forces -- outside layers or inner... and said that people who know physisc could say more on that. Get it?

And yes, material is most important. Hollow titanium will be stronger than solid aluminium of the same thickness (depending on the diameter of the hollow part, of course). Get it?

You can have the same differences (of course not as extreme) in steels, as one bar could be made of a stronger type vs. the other of the softer one. Get it?

Another good informative topic ruined because of somebody's prejudice... ehhh...

rox,

From matrixowners.com I know that the most happy users are those with rear sway bar only. Many people say stock front is stiff enough and for everyday driving and occasional trackday stock front/aftermarket rear (progress in the US) is the perfect combo. There are even people who reverted back to stock in the front...

[shaohaok]

Hey, whats wrong with you, man? Why are you picking on me again. Did I insult anybody again?

I didn't say i'm know physics. I was just wondering what parts of the bar transfer the forces -- outside layers or inner... and said that people who know physisc could say more on that. Get it?

And yes, material is most important. Hollow titanium will be stronger than solid aluminium of the same thickness (depending on the diameter of the hollow part, of course). Get it?

You can have the same differences (of course not as extreme) in steels, as one bar could be made of a stronger type vs. the other of the softer one. Get it?

Another good informative topic ruined because of somebody's prejudice... ehhh...

rox,

From matrixowners.com I know that the most happy users are those with rear sway bar only. Many people say stock front is stiff enough and for everyday driving and occasional trackday stock front/aftermarket rear (progress in the US) is the perfect combo. There are even people who reverted back to stock in the front...

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nothing wrong with me. y didn't u just put your words the way u did in your last post and just tell things like it is. if u worded things differently,

which brings up another question. for road cars, if making a bar solid and a couple of mm thicker than stock, y would anyone go out and make a hollow titanium bar that does the same thing. cost.

of course these factors make a big difference. but most manufacturers make a solid bar and slightly thicker than stock to achieve that "spring rate" or torsional rigidity in the sway bar within a budget, without resorting to other costly material, unless u're shedding weight. heck, if u forge a wheel strong enough, u can make hollow-spoke wheels, but then how many ppl can afford or want to pay for them for road use. mounting points also make a difference. on the whiteline adjustable fronts the way it's made "adjustable" is the mounting holes can shift the whole bar forwards or backwards by a few cm so it changes the leverage that the bar behaves when under a load. when u have time, get a good paper clip and make it the shape of a sway bar and then twist it and see what happens.

[Pippy]

the amount of stress the sways recieve is also affected by the suspension setup, hence i think how they "snapped" would have to depend on what setup they were running.

i have snapped 2 whitelines rear, and they claim to have had a "bad batch" in the welding. however, the 22mm solid that they make now if i recall correctly, when i got it, i'm quite certain that it was 24mm.

as the people at whiteline very well know now that it the bar is too hard/stiff, it'll snap at the welding (main stress point)

again, that will depend on the material and quality of the work.

26mm is the biggest i've heard/seen.

http://tw.f4.page.bid.yahoo.com/tw/auction...?aucview=search

and people, watch your tone of voice to reduce any kind of conflict please.

[ZEEROLLA]

You can also check here for more info on Whiteline products and send enquiries (strictly no discussion on pricing) Suspension parts info

Just need to double check to make sure the part numbers are correct and u don't have to get everything.

I have Whiteline front strutbar, rear swaybar 22mm (measured it and stock is 20mm but heavier), control springs that lower 40mm and retained stock shocks and front swaybar. It improved chassis stiffness and turn-in but body roll still can be reduced. Don't go expecting go-kart handling, probably need coil-overs for that or Yellow adjustable Konis dialled up to Max. Whiteline doesn't recommend that for street cars and hence makes their springs as soft as possible so as to retain street comfort and balance with the rest of the suspension components. Can also get polyurethane bushes to complement the whole package. You can also try the TRD suspension brace, made with steel but will add on weight to the car though.

Cheers,

Zee