Jump to content

Oil is black

Silver-Aurion

By Silver-Aurion
in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club

 Share

Recommended Posts

Silver-Aurion Grand Master

Silver-Aurion

Posted
Posted (edited)

So, I checked my oil today and it is getting quite black. And I need someone to help me to decide to change it or not! Reason I ask is that I don't do 15,000K a year and so all of my services would be by date, not KM.

My last service was 60K and now I'm sitting on 66,000. It would take me at least another couple of months to cover 1500KM for my 67500 additional service. But upon inspection my oil is quite black. Kind of like this dude :ph34r:

My next scheduled service is next year on April (forth month). But I don't want to wait that long because the oil is looking very unhealthy.

I will be doing this additional service myself and do my scheduled service at my mechanic to get the log book stamped as I am still under warranty.

Soooo, what should I do :S. Wait(If I wait, my next service is still 7 months away, counting from october), service it myself, etc :help::unsure:

To be honest, if I had the money I wouldn't even think twice about not doing it but since I am strapped for cash these days it's a hard choice.

edit: Reason for why my oil would be black so quickly after only 6000KM since last service would be because I start stop my car a lot and it does a lot of short trips (its mainly local).

double edit: I'll be using Penrite HPR5. This **** costs a pretty penny. If you think there is better oil around the same price ($46 for 5 litres) please do tell :)

Edited by unique
SuperDave Grand Master

SuperDave

Posted
Posted

How's the air filter looking? The oil changes colour as it suspends foreign material and breaks down with heat. So I'm leaning towards the former.

eviltwin Grand Master

eviltwin

Posted
Posted

why not buy the oil , buy the filter and change yourself or have a VIC member help you out!

peregrine Proficient

peregrine

Posted
Posted

So, I checked my oil today and it is getting quite black. And I need someone to help me to decide to change it or not! Reason I ask is that I don't do 15,000K a year and so all of my services would be by date, not KM.

My last service was 60K and now I'm sitting on 66,000. It would take me at least another couple of months to cover 1500KM for my 67500 additional service. But upon inspection my oil is quite black. Kind of like this dude :ph34r:

My next scheduled service is next year on April (forth month). But I don't want to wait that long because the oil is looking very unhealthy.

I will be doing this additional service myself and do my scheduled service at my mechanic to get the log book stamped as I am still under warranty.

Soooo, what should I do :S. Wait(If I wait, my next service is still 7 months away, counting from october), service it myself, etc :help::unsure:

To be honest, if I had the money I wouldn't even think twice about not doing it but since I am strapped for cash these days it's a hard choice.

edit: Reason for why my oil would be black so quickly after only 6000KM since last service would be because I start stop my car a lot and it does a lot of short trips (its mainly local).

double edit: I'll be using Penrite HPR5. This **** costs a pretty penny. If you think there is better oil around the same price ($46 for 5 litres) please do tell :)

With the type of driving you are doing, short trips, stop start etc which I would recon be classified as extreme I would suggest you check your owners manual which should recommend earlier oil changes for such conditions. Probably be wise to change your oil every 6 months eg: 7500Ks.If you have just changed your oil from non or semi synthetic to a fully synthetic oil, the change could quite possibly be the reason for the oil turning black, due to better scavenging of sediments left by the other oils.


Kenshin X Grand Master

Kenshin X

Posted
Posted

why not buy the oil , buy the filter and change yourself or have a VIC member help you out!

+2. penrite hpr5 ftw. im running it in my engine now and i'm finally able to change every 10,000km. even after yday's cruise of hard driving, the oil is still looking honey comb colour. it did consume abit of oil but thats expected. esp of a 7 yr old car

SCOOTA44 Grand Master

SCOOTA44

Posted
Posted

That is unusual for oil to discolour that quick, as you know mine is a cab so there are a lot of starting and short trips and I service at 15k intervals, the oil is darker as you would expect, but not black.

czaja74 Veteran

czaja74

Posted
Posted

Every 7500 km I change oil and oil filter myself and then take car to mechanic for the book service.

Silver-Aurion Grand Master

Silver-Aurion

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Every 7500 km I change oil and oil filter myself and then take car to mechanic for the book service.

This is essentially what I wanted to know. Did you end up going to those guys to get the service done?

Also, thanks for everyone else who replied. Appreciate it. Will see what I do when I creep closer to the service time.

Silver-Aurion Grand Master

Silver-Aurion

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That is unusual for oil to discolour that quick, as you know mine is a cab so there are a lot of starting and short trips and I service at 15k intervals, the oil is darker as you would expect, but not black.

Yeah, but your engine is probably hot a lot of the time. Sometimes I make it to my destination without the car at 100% operating temperature.

  • 3 weeks later...
czaja74 Veteran

czaja74

Posted
Posted (edited)

Every 7500 km I change oil and oil filter myself and then take car to mechanic for the book service.

This is essentially what I wanted to know. Did you end up going to those guys to get the service done?

Also, thanks for everyone else who replied. Appreciate it. Will see what I do when I creep closer to the service time.

Sorry I should refrase it . I do 7500km (or 6 months) oil and filter change and every 15000km I take car for the book service. I also provide my own oil Super GTO 10W-30. However I will be looking to change it to fully synthetic one.

Yes I went there and had my transmission serviced. They did a proper flush as well. Also I got them to install new disks and brake pads.

On top of that they were more than happy for me to be there and observe the whole process.

Also I always change oil while engine is hot. When I come home from work (24km drive) I remove engine oil cup and oil dipstick and then straight under the car and drain the hot oil (use thick rubber glow for a protection). Have a shower, diner and watch tv for a while. 2 hours later I go back and complete oil change. I know it might be a little overkill but it really does a trick. After replacing oil with the new one I can hardly see where is the oil level on the stick. This is what I hate about dealer service. They leave the car in the yard for the period of time and then change oil while the engine is cold and not allowing for the proper drainage.

Edited by czaja74
DJKOR Grand Master

DJKOR

Posted
Posted

...2 hours later I go back and complete oil change. I know it might be a little overkill but it really does a trick.

That's not overkill, leaving it for around 5-6 hours like I sometimes do is.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 1

      Turboed Corolla Overbuilt?

      that engine will be fine, the rods are the main thing to be concerned about. The 2860 is a decent turbo for the 1zz but in this day and age I'd go for a G25-550. The injectors might be on the small side, we run DW1000's. You need a full length injector, the shorter injectors with adaptors like ID1050x dont fit the 1zz head. You don't need an aftermarket intake manifold, if you do go down that path, avoid the CNC innovations unit, it's garbage. Do the boost control with a MAC valve and control it with the aftermarket ECU of your choice, I use Link stuff on most of my builds with the G4x Storm as the minimum. I also wire a fuel pressure sensor and oil pressure sensor to the ECU in my installs. Use a decent intercooler, the better cores (ARE, PWR, Garrett, Vibrant, Plazmaman, Hypertune) work a lot better than the chinese stuff like Aeroflow. a 450x250-300 fits fairly well with custom end tanks to route the cooler pipes through next to the radiator Don't forget about the clutch and gearbox. These days I like the Uniclutch twinplate, Above 300whp you'll want to think about upgrading the 3rd and 4th gears in the box also with the SSC (Hollinger) gear set and install an LSD of your choice. If you're going to give it a hard time, you'll also want an oil cooler. I like the HKS thermostat type sandwich plates and setrab or mocal oil coolers with -10 speedflow fittings/lines (Chinese AN fittings neck down to a lot smaller internal diameter in their bends, not great for flow) You'll also want to think about brakes, Celica or Sportivo front calipers will bolt on with sportivo discs as a starting point. To have somewhere like Tunehouse do the work you'll want to budget somewhere between 20-40K
      CHA54 in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    2. 3

      Camry Touring 2010 Fuel consumption 15.2L/100km. Normal?

      I did the mathematics myself regarding costs vs benefits for fuel injector cleaner. I have changed from 91ULP to 95PULP and 98PULP. Price difference can be about 13 -20 cents. Compared to 91ULP, Premium quality fuel should have a better quality additive package designed to have superior engine cleaning capabilities so the engine can perform at their best.
      campbeam in Camry Club
    3. 3

      Camry Touring 2010 Fuel consumption 15.2L/100km. Normal?

      "Fuel injector cleaner is a waste of money" Only if you by the cheap crap if you use LiquMolly a German Product it does work and you won't waste your Money.
      Aussie Camry in Camry Club
    4. 0

      Camry Touring 2010 A/C Issues.

      Hi Guys, My Camry 2010 Touring just had a regas done on it and the next day for some reason it wasn't blowing cold air but the next day it is now working with nice cold air BUT every now and then we can hear and feel a like a buzz for a few secounds and today while my sister took my I could her like a mild knock sound when stopped but goes away when driving. Any idea what this could be and the A/C is always working now for now.
      Aussie Camry in Camry Club
    5. 6

      My Toys & Collectables

      Friday the 13th added
      L4WL3SS in Club Lounge
    6. 18

      High idling on the 2zzge even when warm (solved!)

      i am in sydney, just got 1992 tarago, same problem, 2k idle speed when engine warm, changed the whole throttle body, ECU, still same, help pls in sydney 0405987988
      moxabest in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    7. 5

      High RPM Idle after the engine warm up.

      i have same problem, already changed throttle body, ecm modle, help pls
      moxabest in Inside and Out
    8. 0

      Tow bar

      Hi guys, Just bought my new Landcruiser Prado yesterday. What is the difference between Onroad Towner and Off road Towbar
      Kiru in Prado Club
    9. 3

      Disconnecting winch, lightbar and UHF

      Generally, yes. In the 60s, and earlier, there were cars with positive grounds, so I'm always a bit hesitant to say the negative wire. It is always the one that bolts to the body. Herb
      ozieagle in Landcruiser Club
    10. 0

      2011 Land Cruiser 1VD-FTV Engine Won't Start After Overhaul

      Hi everyone, I have a 2011 Land Cruiser VDJ200 with a 1VD-FTV engine. I recently had the engine fully overhauled due to a blown head gasket. However, after the overhaul, the engine is not starting. It only cranks but doesn't fire. I've checked the following DTC codes: Internal memory EEPROM error Low rail pressure The actual rail pressure data shows: 240 bar during cranking 61 bar when ignition is off Based on these findings, I suspect the following potential causes: =Defective Diesel High-Pressure Pump =Leaking Piezoelectric Injectors =Diesel Fuel Bypassing to the DPF Circuit =Faulty Injector Drivers I'm hoping for some expert advice to help diagnose and resolve this problem I'm seeking expert advice on how to troubleshoot and resolve this issue. Any suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated.
      kevin200 in Landcruiser Club
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums

News

Membership