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2zz Rebuild


runxz
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Hey guys ended up bending some valves and eventually spun a bearing so i have been saving for about a year now to rebuild the engine in a big way. Below is the public link to the build on facebook posted by my buddy and the mechanic doin the work. Keep checking it for updates. Ill let you know hoe things are going.

Thanks

Scott

MWR Parts

1 x Toyota OEM Head Gasket - 2ZZ-GE

1 x MWR ARP head stud kit - Toyota 1ZZ/2ZZ

1 x MWR 2ZZ-GE Valve Set- Flat Face

1 x Piper Cam Set - 2ZZ - BP285 (Stage 2)

1 x MWR Rod Bearing Set - Toyota 2ZZ-GE Std

1 x MWR 2ZZ-GE Valve Spring Set

1 x Hondata Intake Manifold Heat Shield Gasket - Toyota 2ZZ-GE

1 x Toyota Water Pump - 2ZZ-GE 1.8L VVTLi

4 x NGK BKR7EIX Iridium Spark Plug (1) - Toyota ZZ

1 x Energy Susp Bushing Kit - Celica/Corolla Engine Mount Inserts

1 x MWR Crankshaft - Toyota 2ZZ-GE - Lightweight Knife-Edged - Used

1 x Crower Connecting Rod Set - Toyota 2ZZ-GE 1.8L VVTLi Maxi-Light

1 x MWR 1ZZ / 2ZZ High Performance Valve Stem Seal Kit

1 x Mahle Custom Pistons 11.5:1

1 x TRD 160F Thermostat - Toyota 1.8L

1 x Toyota OEM Timing Chain - 2ZZ-GE

1 x ARP Rod Bolt Kit - Toyota 2ZZ-GE

1 x MWR Main Bearing Set - Toyota 1ZZ-FE and 2ZZ-GE Std

1 x MWR ARP main stud kit - Toyota 1ZZ/2ZZ

1 x Toyota OEM Piston Ring Set (4) - 2ZZ-GE (fits stock pistons)

1 x Speed Source Shifter Cable Bushing Set - Toyota ZZ engines

1 x MWR Circuitworx Assembled Oil Pump - 2ZZ-GE

1 x Toyota OEM Accessory Belt Tensioner - Toyota 2ZZ-GE

1 x Toyota OEM Chain Guide Set - 2ZZ-GE

1 x Toyota OEM Crankshaft Sprocket - 1ZZ, 2ZZ

1 x ACT Clutch - Toyota 1ZZ 2ZZ Celica-MR2-S-Corolla-Matrix - XTSS

1 x MWR Valve Spring Retainer Set - 2ZZ-GE - Titanium

1 x Speed Source Shifter Base Bushings - Toyota Celica, MR2-S 00-05

Facebook

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?ai...6&l=40b70171fe

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holy crap, that's a long list :P

let us know how it goes. if u dont mind me asking how much money and time will this take to rebuild?

Parts reached $5500 US. Lucky for me i got my cousin who is a pilot to walk it in so i payed no duty (thanks god). The car has been down for about 2.5 months so far due to the parts being on order. My buddy who is doin the work for me has spent about 1 week so far on it i suspect another week or so once the rest of the smaller parts reach. He is an amazingly talented and absolutely brilliant and works side by side with his dad who has an amazing wealth of knowledge and skill and has come from a racing background.

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so i take it when u say u bent valves, ur chain spat itself and timing went out?

why dont u just to big end bearings, and top end, do u really need to go and get all the extras like thermostats, and waterpumps?

I really wanted to start from scratch with the engine as it was a jdm import and i didn't know the history. This way i will break it in and i will be able to map my oil changes and maintainence.

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Self interest aside, you have so much to gain with a PFC, you have Cams + Springs! Rev the bitch to 9k+ and lower lift... you'll be in lift 100% of the time!

I agree 100% but thats more money to spend again and also im a little worried about the tuning expertise here in trinidad. Most guys that tune do subaru's and evo's not NA. i want to do some research before i start to mess with tuning. But how much you want for it thow :) I will need a conversion harness as well.

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What caused the bent valves? Over rev on down shift?

Yep coming into a corner overtaking a honda civic with a b18C way too hard and started to throw gears. saw 9000 in 3rd 9000 in 2nd and that was the end of it. The final straw was racing another civic hatch in a drag and beat him 3 times. On the 4th run i went to chuck 5th and went into 3rd for a split second then clutched down and that was that. Dont drink rum and race.

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Probably cheaper to just buy a short block from MWR, with rods, pistons, etc. Then have your engine builder do the head work. That way you know everything is new. Skip the thermostat, it'll only save a couple dollars, but the thermostat doesn't help cooling in anyway. It just opens the system up for full cooling earlier in the temperature range; which has the effect of increasing fuel consumption and probably a negligible amount of extra engine wear. If you want to improve cooling (the stock radiator is more than up to the job under NA conditions) upgrade the radiator.

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Oh well im glad you know how to drive it if your revving the **** off it you should be stoked it lasted the time it did maybe don;t waste another 5k and drive it a little tamer next time ehh..

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Oh well im glad you know how to drive it if your revving the **** off it you should be stoked it lasted the time it did maybe don;t waste another 5k and drive it a little tamer next time ehh..

Boy do i agree, but with the parts i have in there now at-least if i were to do that again it would take it. My plan is to build it stronger 2zz, no oilpump problems no more bent valves.

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys wanted to give an update. The car is back on the road and the initial break in is done. No sure how much power the car is making yet but its a whole different car. The car still has about 800 km to break in and loosen up but its really a great driving car now. The car really accelerates amazingly after 3000 rpm. As we would all know there is normally a lack of response in the midrange up to lift well the cams really make a massive difference in that area. In lift is more aggressive but the changeover is less dramatic as the car pulls very hard throughout 3-6000 rpm. I will say we could not get a belt so far to work with the 2 MWR pulleys and if you are using the RUNX alternator you will have to machine a little bit off the pulley for it to work. When we get this sorted i will update. I also fitted the TEIN SS Coil-overs from the zze130 US model corolla (thanks to orrock for the advice) so they actually fit. I will update further once we go on the dyno. I still have some more work to do in the future like full exhaust and a PFC, but ive run out of funds for the time being. :) Please check the facebook below for the updated pics.

Facebook

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=545708&id=609265296

Edited by runxz
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i had the same issue with the alternator pulley, get yourself an american alternator, 1zz or 2zz it doesnt matter, the shaft up the centre is too small aswell as the outer is too big and fouls on the alternator casing,you can buy a perfect sleeve to sort the internal out, i have a couple of those here, and machine down the outside...... but its better to find the correct alternator as the pulley is balanced already and machining it could upset it

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  • 1 month later...

i had the same issue with the alternator pulley, get yourself an american alternator, 1zz or 2zz it doesnt matter, the shaft up the centre is too small aswell as the outer is too big and fouls on the alternator casing,you can buy a perfect sleeve to sort the internal out, i have a couple of those here, and machine down the outside...... but its better to find the correct alternator as the pulley is balanced already and machining it could upset it

Are you sure that will fit? I went onto toyodiy and had a look and it looked different but it could just be the angle of the diagram. Have you fitted any of the us ones and if so could you give me the part numbers?

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  • 2 weeks later...

So to give a disappointing update, i went up on the dyne and only managed to put down 160.88 which was to say the least shocking. My friends fielder which has a free flow exhaust with no cat on a good stock engine did 158. I have no idea whats wrong im sure dyno's don't go crazy and the car feels nothing like 160. I went back to have a look at the graph that monkeywrench has for a stock engine with pier stage 2 cams and they made 17 whp at 8000 so i really don't understand. Maybe the fact im running a stock exhaust with stock cat is holding me back, maybe the ecu cant handle it and is running too rich and thats why im having idling problems. All in all the car is much quicker than the fielder even taking into consideration the 200 lbs diff. I will do exhaust and see what happens. Any ideas would be helpful :) I have attached 2 graphs the first is my run (scott) the second is an overlay of the fielder (ryan) and mine (scott). You can see i did make like 5-15 hp more than him at points but the top is almost the same.

post-4881-0-83824700-1296474250_thumb.jp

post-4881-0-78049700-1296474812_thumb.jp

I wonder if the ecu started to back off timing as i was about to hit the speed cut?

Edited by runxz
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Sounds and looks like the VVL isn't working.

If both graphs show the run 'scott_002' why are the curves a different shape?

The runs were done back to back about a minute apart.The vvl is working, but maybe as i hit the revlimit so close to each other it freaked out. I felt it kick in many times since the rebuild and its def working its just not as much as an on and off switch since the cams.

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The 'Scott_002' run is the single run, it has the same time/date stamp on it, used on both graphs. In one graph it has a kick and in the other it doesn't. I can't see what graph smoothing is done on one of them, but I'm thinking the graph smoothing is smoothing out the lift kick if you say it's still working.

If lift is working it could be the VVT isn't working as it should be (plug an OBD2 scanner in and see if the timing is changing); or the VVT settings on the stock ECU are so far off the optimal setup with your modifications that putting in a tuneable ECU will net you the gains. Stock ECU with cams doesn't gain much, but with an ECU the gains are fantastic. Stock exhaust and intake provide a bit of restriction too.

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The 'Scott_002' run is the single run, it has the same time/date stamp on it, used on both graphs. In one graph it has a kick and in the other it doesn't. I can't see what graph smoothing is done on one of them, but I'm thinking the graph smoothing is smoothing out the lift kick if you say it's still working.

If lift is working it could be the VVT isn't working as it should be (plug an OBD2 scanner in and see if the timing is changing); or the VVT settings on the stock ECU are so far off the optimal setup with your modifications that putting in a tuneable ECU will net you the gains. Stock ECU with cams doesn't gain much, but with an ECU the gains are fantastic. Stock exhaust and intake provide a bit of restriction too.

If the VVT wasn't working properly what would be the cause of that? Stupid question but whats an obd2 scanner?

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