Coolant issues in Camry Wagon

[trebor1980]

Hi, I have a 1996 Camry wagon which I bought about 4 months ago. After just a few weeks of having it the car over heated so I took it to a garage and they told me the head gaskets had gone...I then phoned the dealer I got it from who took it to his mechanics and said the Head Gaskets were fine, but the pipes in the engine were blocked - he then replaced all that needed to be replaced and I got the car back.

When I got it back, the coolant had beem topped up with green liquid and was at the full point in the reservior. I then noticed after driving about 1000km that when I turned on the engine there was a gurgling noise which I presumed to be the coolant tube. I drove it another few hundred KM's and today checked the coolant levels and it was practically empty in the reservoir - the radiator itself was still full up (this was when the engine was cold)

Please can anyone let me know what might be happening here - should I just fill up the reservoir with the green coolant or is there a bigger problem here?

Many thanks

[Ozzcaddy]

Check under the oil filler cap for any moisture or milky like colour. If there is any there, then yes there is something that has blown or cracked within the engine. If nothing is under the cap, then take out the oil dipstick and check the level and also see if there are any tiny air bubbles or milky substance. If coolant is leaking into the oil, then the oil level will rise.

If that also appears normal, take the radiator cap off when the engine is totally cold, and start the car. Check for air bubbles in the coolant. What might happen is that the level of the coolant will suddenly drop as the thermostat has just opened up, but continue checking for air bubbles.

Once the engine gets to normal running temperature and the coolant level has dropped, top up the radiator. Turn the engine off now and wait til it's cools, and check the coolant level again.

Let us know what happens.

[trebor1980]

Hi, thanks for the quick reply.

I checked under the oil filler cap, there is a bit of oil on it, but nothing milky in colour. I can't see any bubbles on the dipstick either, although the car is not yet cold so I will check again then.

Just to clarify on your second point. I will wait until the car is cold, take off the radiator cap and start the engine and will check for bubbles. Should I top up the radiator and replace the cap whilst the car is running? Also, is it ok at this stage to just put tap water into the radiator or should I buy the green coolant

[dirty hands]

also when hot make sure both cooling fans are operating

one comes on with the airconditoner ...thats normal

the other one has a thermatic switch that turns the fan off and on with hot temperature

[Ozzcaddy]

Hi, thanks for the quick reply.

I checked under the oil filler cap, there is a bit of oil on it, but nothing milky in colour. I can't see any bubbles on the dipstick either, although the car is not yet cold so I will check again then.

Just to clarify on your second point. I will wait until the car is cold, take off the radiator cap and start the engine and will check for bubbles. Should I top up the radiator and replace the cap whilst the car is running? Also, is it ok at this stage to just put tap water into the radiator or should I buy the green coolant

Yes, wait until the engine is cold, that way you can see first hand how the coolant is at cold and as it heats up, by not having the radiator cap on.

At this stage, just add the tap water if needed to top the radiator up before starting the engine, unless you know what type of coolant is already in the radiator. They always say that you should not mix coolants. As Dirty Hands mentioned, check that the fans are also working whilst you do this.

Once the engine has reached normal operating temperature (check gauge), top up the radiator if needed and place the radiator cap back on. If things are working properly and the radiator is now over filled, coolant should flow into the over flow tank as the water continues the heat up and expand.

[trebor1980]

OK, so I turned on the car without the radiator cap on, the radiator was full, but nothing in the reservoir. After the car had reached it's normal temperature I added in about 100ml of water to fill the radiator back up again.

I didn't notice any bubbles in the coolant while the car was running, but there was a very fine vapour coming out of the coolant when the engine was getting hotter - is this normal?

I'll check the coolant levels when the car cools again, but if I only added in 100ml I don't expect the reservoir to fill up - so i guess i am wondering what happened to the 600ml or so that was in the reservoir 100km ago? Any advice would be really appreciated!!

[Ozzcaddy]

The next time you do the test, fill the over flow bottle and do the test. The vapour could just be normal like when boiling a kettle or running hot water tap for a while. Did the fans come on?

If nothing seems to be happening, the only other thing I would suggest is to have the cooling system pressure tested by a mechanic.

All that involves is them removing the radiator cap and fitting an adaptor that has a pump and gauge. They pressurise the cooling system and see if the gauge loses any pressure which would identify a leak of some type. This test not only test the radiator, but all the hoses (heater, radiator and small connecting ones) belonging to the cooling system.

It's all frustrating but with the high temps at the moment, you don't want to be caught out.

[trebor1980]

OK, thanks for the help - I will try filling up the overflow with water and keep an eye on what happens - and yep, the fans did come on.

If I keep hearing the noise and the coolant goes down quickly again I think i will go to mechanic and have it tested. My main worry is that it is a head gasket problem which I now is not cheap to fix!

cheers

[Rolla Boy]

That gurgling sound is usually coolant passing through the heater core pipes under the dash, most likely a bit of air in the pipe which may have caused the coolant level to drop...

If you're continuously losing coolant it's gotta be leaking out somewhere...

Best off getting it inspected by another mechanic, the dealer you bought it from may have just added chemiweld to stop the leaking headgasket...

Blowing the head gaskets is fairly common for this model Camry so I'd definately be getting it checked out by another mechanic...

[Dave T]

Hi,

I am having a similar issue in my 95 Vienta V6. I am losing coolant somewhere, needing to top up the coolant bottle weekly, up to 1 litre depending on how much I use the car. No visible leaks or puddles under car and no milky oil. The car is running fine and is not overheating. Have had the filler neck on the engine replaced as it was slightly corroded and cap replaced but no change. Also had it pressure tested by mechanic and was advised there was no problem. I am thinking of taking it to a radiator specialist for another test. Anyone got any ideas on where to go from here. Water pump??

Trebor1980, did you reslove your issue?

[trebor1980]

Hi Dave

That sounds exactly the same problem as mine! I am taking mine to a Toyota mechanic on Thursday to get them to look at the problem. I have a horrible feeling they are just going to say the headgasket is gone but hopefully they will find something simpler (and less expensive!) to fix.

I'll let you know how i go...

[Dave T]

Yes I hope to take mine to a radiator specialist for a pressure test on Saturday but would be interested how you go too! I'll await your response and post mine as well.....

[photodo]

Check radiator cap if rubber becomes harden or broken then replace new one. Fault radiator cap makes boiling point of coolant lower and lose water

[trebor1980]

So here is what the toyota garage told me...

The radiator cap has to be replaced, a hose is cracked and needs to be replaced as is the coolant reservoir container. The noise made on startup was air in the system which they will get rid of. finally they are going to flush and pressure test the whole system.

So no head gasket issues which is a relief although it's going to cost me (with a service as well) about $1000 AUD to get it all fixed. Annoying but I guess it has to be done!

[Ozzcaddy]

Good to know on the cooling system that nothing is major to replace, which you could do yourself (pending what hose needs replacing). But are you having a major service done at the same time as having the cooling system fixed. I only ask because of the quote of $1,000.

[trebor1980]

the service was $260 on it's own, so $740 for the parts and labour to fix the coolant issue (and slight oil leak).

I went to a toyota dealer to get it done, have already paid for it - do you think this is too much?

[Dave T]

Had my cooling system pressure tested this arvo by a Natrad centre (who I have used for years) and it showed no problems. They checked for all the regular things and all looked good. They were at a loss as to the problem. They advised to keep a check on the level and top up in the hope something noticable shows up. I had changed the cap on the engine filler but not the one on the radiator so will replace this next although if faulty I would have thought it would show up on the pressure test.

As I haven't had the car for that long (done 10k since purchasing) I was going to get the timing belt changed (cars done 140k) so may replace the water pump at the same time. At least I can then eliminate that!

Any other suggestions greatfully accepted....

[Ozzcaddy]

Did they pressure test the system, and that's how they found these problems.

Well, $740 to replace radiator cap, coolant overflow bottle, hose, flush and blead system of air. As I mentioned depending on what hose. If it is a heater hose, you should get both heater hoses replaced, if not, that would be more cost later on to replace the other, if it goes. Toyota coolant would cost about $50. Maybe for parts $120-$140. So the rest is in labour. As it has been well over 30 years since I had a Dealer do any service or repairs, no idea on labour cost per hour.

[Ozzcaddy]

Had my cooling system pressure tested this arvo by a Natrad centre (who I have used for years) and it showed no problems. They checked for all the regular things and all looked good. They were at a loss as to the problem. They advised to keep a check on the level and top up in the hope something noticable shows up. I had changed the cap on the engine filler but not the one on the radiator so will replace this next although if faulty I would have thought it would show up on the pressure test.

As I haven't had the car for that long (done 10k since purchasing) I was going to get the timing belt changed (cars done 140k) so may replace the water pump at the same time. At least I can then eliminate that!

Any other suggestions greatfully accepted....

It's a bugger when all checks out Ok after a pressure test is done. Keep an eye on the level and record how much fluid you have to add and when.

If your going to have the timing belt replaced, do the water pump as well. I have a 99 V6, and had mine done in December which cost me $960. That was for ALL belts, bearings and tensioner, water pump and coolant. Really the timing belt should have been changed in 2005, as it is 150,000 or 10 years by the book. I only had 114,000 but was coming up 12 years old.

Edited February 18, 2011 by Ozzcaddy