Jump to content


MAF Toyota vs STI

HiLift

By HiLift
in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club

 Share

Recommended Posts

HiLift Experienced

HiLift

Posted
Posted

Long story short. i need a new MAF sensor for my 2zz is there and pro's or con's with the Subaru sensor??
xoom Grand Master

xoom

Posted
Posted

a lot of the guys in the US use them when they are boosting their 2zz's bcuz they end up outflowing the stocker ...... i believe the STI Maf is also better suited to 3" piping ...... not sure if it will slot into the CES CAI .... havent looked at one up close ....... will also probably need a re-tune as i dont believe it will all just work given it will read the voltages a bit different to the stock MAF i.e. it will be passing a higher flow of air as the same voltage reading so the map will need to be adjusted accordingly ...... i out flowed the stocker and opted for a Z32 MAF (300ZX TT) purely because of the way my piping was put together this was a better option.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing



  • Join The Club

    Join the Toyota Owners Club and be part of the Community. It's FREE!

  • Latest Postings

    1. 2

      P0303, rough idle, check VSC message.

      Do you remember a Toyota ad [years ago] around the response "Bugger". Engine misfire causes include spark plug, ignition coil and fuel injector. When I checked my spark plugs as part of tracking down engine misfire, I found oil around a few of the spark plugs as a contributing factor. I also found a long 16mm swivel magnetic spark plug socket to be very handy. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/196756153269?_skw=16mm+magnetic+spark+plug&itmmeta=01JHYWNWBVX4JXZ7C6WAZRFFDT&hash=item2dcf94a3b5:g:3BMAAOSws8pnHuBU&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKlqtUwJeOil2iRuVSCtyQOrqULI0EMgdE0a428A%2FFNAw%2FKD9hi2uQFLedafNJSbn%2Bp%2F8v7YkkPrwk%2FLCnBlEeH1XBEOuxRI3pEWxtouABez5uQ9KQf%2B4OJc%2FMxiKPMxxg0CRALap3ZJ4azh2jpPYIXWgexr9OtP53v8KvPIy6otDSy859N35OWs8Pnd4udqpCi7CFZVLebJRc%2BO0IgiqTpVM2tmErlndu1i8xDQP68j6wqsbSF%2BqS%2BXfvIa3AadyUrmg2d0gWwGnktyuIxKAM0HcQYqbvZm1G1Ztd%2FE1WeO6A%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5jG19yPZQ I have not yet replaced the spark plug seal gaskets but have them on my eBay watchlist. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/196589707493 This video may be relevant.
      campbeam in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
    2. 2

      P0303, rough idle, check VSC message.

      That video tells me bank 1, cylinder 3 is the rear, least accessible bank/cylinder. Good info, not so good news.
      boxerboy in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
    3. 2

      2006 Aurion 222000kms

      sold
      boxerboy in Toyota's For Sale
    4. 2

      P0303, rough idle, check VSC message.

      Hello y'all. 2008 prodigy, 230Kkm. Recent service. Mildly rough idle, engine dash light on. Code reader shows P0303...cylinder 3 misfire. Then it had the "check vsc system" message. vsc light and engine dash warning lights are on. Daughter reports "the engine light flashes when I accelerate and it jolts a bit". Engine light doesn't flash at maintenance speed. fwiw, added 7 litres 85ron+ethanol to a 3/4 full 98ron tank. Did that in the hope it might clean something up. A 20km drive later, the engine light remains on (not flashing) and the vsc message is gone but the symbol still lit. Daughter reports "there is a clear improvement". Looking from the front of the motor, please confirm the position of cylinder 3. Adjacent to 1, so middle, but front or rear bank? I might pull the plug and coil if it's the front one. Cheers
      boxerboy in Aurion / TRD Aurion Club
    5. 0

      Cylinder head removal

      1993 Toyota Corolla CSi Sedan I've had this car for about 10 years. During that time I've never really studied anything under the bonnet. I've been studying it very recently. I have to say I'm amazed at the plumbing and wiring attached to the engine. It makes me wonder what newer cars are like. I've only ever bought second-hand. Anyway, fully loaded, hot day, slow traffic, an up hill run (Brown Mountain, NSW), stop and go. The engine starts to make noises I'd rather it didn't make. Pull over let it cool. Eventually added some water but the engine didn't start. Leave it. Hitch a ride. Come back with another car and tow it. Annoyed with the thing and it sits idle for a few weeks. Back at, and it starts first go. I'm amazed. Drive it into a spot where I can work on it. A few months pass and I try to start it again. It wants to start - but no go. I get fed up trying. Then I'm shocked (but not surprised) to see, with the radiator full and the cap off that as I turn the engine over (it still won't start) huge amounts of water blowing out the radiator. It's a New Zealand Geyzer. And the engine isn't even running. At that point, I'm visualising a huge gap in the head gasket between one of the cylinders and the water jacket. The head has to come off. And I committed to doing that this weekend. I'm not enjoying this. Oh, it started as fun. I've removed heads before. Years ago. There's so much plumbing on this thing. I don't know what half of it is. Half the time I don't know if the plumbing are vacuum lines, water, or fuel. So many weird things on this engine. Werid to me, anyway. Plenty of pictures and notes taken, to help me put it back together again. I have to say that there are some aspects of this engine that make me feel that the designers should be shot, or at least strung up by the feet (like Django was in the movie) and beaten senseless. I removed the radiator - two bolts and it lifts out. Way to go. Good design. But most other things I found to be a pain. (For example, the thermostat housing seems to be attached to some other housing that has a water hose attached that runs along the back of the engine underneath the inlet manifold. I never knew it was there. It looks like it runs to the water pump. I don't know how anyone would gain access to that without removing the inlet manifold. What poor engine design.) So, here's the thing. If there's anyone out there who has experience with a 1993 model, give me a shout, and I'll put a few questions to you.
      Ron0z in Corolla / Corolla Sportivo Club
    6. 2

      1996 Caldina Fuel Pump Location

      Walked away from the job last night came back this morning and found the location of the Fuel pump problem. Blocked return line and the OBD connection. Someone above must be looking over my shoulder Access to the fuel pump is via the left hand rear seat cushion (left it up) and the OBD connection is in the engine bay at on the left hand side wall. Pays to keep looking.
      MahiH in Workshop Submissions
    7. 2

      1996 Caldina Fuel Pump Location

      MahiH in Workshop Submissions
    8. 2

      1996 Caldina Fuel Pump Location

      Can anyone describe where the OB2 Connection block is located on a right hand drive 1996 Caldina. I have looked under the drivers compartment side cover and through the fuse box area however I have not yet found the terminal box for the OBD monitor.
      MahiH in Workshop Submissions
    9. 10

      04 Estima cruise control speed limited?

      Hi guys how it's going? We have a 2004 Estima and we're trying to fit a cruise control. Unfortunately there is no factory plug and so we are using the factory connector for the assumed audio control and and jacking off the Top Left 1 and 3 pins. Does anyone know the correct pins for the Cruise Control? Photo below
      Beardy Dan in Other Toyota Models
    10. 2

      Radiator removal

      Hi Pat - don't know if you'll see this after all this time. Nobody mentioned the engine, petrol/diesel. I'm hoping it's a petrol 2.4 like mine! Thanks.
      clootie in Toyota Commercial
×
×
  • Create New...

Forums

News

Membership