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Posted

Hey again people,

I think it's time for a new engine, the current one has racked up 500,000k's and it's lost most of it's 'zip'

The vehicle is a 1993 SDV10 Camry Executive Wagon, 5 speed.

Being a 5s-fe, the word 'zip' is used sparingly.

I read in another post here that i can throw in a v6 from another toyota model, but i can't remember which...

I know for sure that i could put in a 3s-gte, but if it's possible i'd rather the torque from the V6.

Has anyone performed this operation before? or had someone do it for them? or know someone that has?

is it worth it? or should i just buy a new car? the thing only cost me 2 grand in the first place...

Cheers fer any replies...

Craig.

Posted

Hey again people,

I think it's time for a new engine, the current one has racked up 500,000k's and it's lost most of it's 'zip'

The vehicle is a 1993 SDV10 Camry Executive Wagon, 5 speed.

Being a 5s-fe, the word 'zip' is used sparingly.

I read in another post here that i can throw in a v6 from another toyota model, but i can't remember which...

I know for sure that i could put in a 3s-gte, but if it's possible i'd rather the torque from the V6.

Has anyone performed this operation before? or had someone do it for them? or know someone that has?

is it worth it? or should i just buy a new car? the thing only cost me 2 grand in the first place...

Cheers fer any replies...

Craig.

If you could get a low KM motor from a wrecker and could do the work yourself its not too hard or time consuming of a job...

You could put a 3VZ-FE (i think) into it, or a 3SGTE but both of these are a LOT more work.

Posted (edited)

mick.wheels - thanks for the fast reply :)

i only just read your 5sfe -> 5sfte conversion 10 minutes ago... very, very nice

i'm thinking that it may be my best option to try and find a low km 5sfe engine to go straight back in with no hitches...

then do your turbo conversion... how difficult was it? how long did it take? how much did it cost (roughly)?

i'm a boilermaker myself, so i'm no stranger to tools...

i can only speculate as to how much a mechanic would charge me to install a turbo!

thoughts?

Cheers...

Craig.

Edited by Craig 'Cam-pollo'
Posted

I think that is a great idea, as long as you can do all the work yourself (and by the sound of it, you can) it is a good option.

Pick up a low (e.g under 200k) engine, freshen up if you like (or dont, depends how much boost/how long you want it to last).

The conversion isnt expensive, its just finding parts can be difficult... I think all up it cost me ~2000 for the orig. 5SFTE conversion.... but TBH set aside the 300 or so for a HD clutch, will be worth the extra expense, trust me.


Posted

I think that is a great idea, as long as you can do all the work yourself (and by the sound of it, you can) it is a good option.

Pick up a low (e.g under 200k) engine, freshen up if you like (or dont, depends how much boost/how long you want it to last).

The conversion isnt expensive, its just finding parts can be difficult... I think all up it cost me ~2000 for the orig. 5SFTE conversion.... but TBH set aside the 300 or so for a HD clutch, will be worth the extra expense, trust me.

Sweet, thanks man, that appears to be a much better and more economically viable option for me to take...

although i think i'd best beef up the rear sway bar, add a front strut brace and convert rear drums to disc first eh...

sand shoe

Posted (edited)

You will have to fab up a front sway bar if you want one and while you're at it, make me one. :) You can buy the strut braces and rear sway bars.

Edited by trentmeyer23
Posted

You will have to fab up a front sway bar if you want one and while you're at it, make me one. :) You can buy the strut braces and rear sway bars.

fabbing up a front sway bar will be a small portion of urine mate...

will keep posted on that fer sure

how thick ya reckon?

Posted

Stock is 24mm for the front, so it probably is thick enough. The stock rear is 14mm and the Whiteline is 18mm. So if you wanted a beefy front swaybar, bump it to 26mm or 28mm. But as I said probably not necessary. Trust me when I say this, the rear swaybar is the best value for money suspension mod I can recommend.

Posted

Stock is 24mm for the front, so it probably is thick enough. The stock rear is 14mm and the Whiteline is 18mm. So if you wanted a beefy front swaybar, bump it to 26mm or 28mm. But as I said probably not necessary. Trust me when I say this, the rear swaybar is the best value for money suspension mod I can recommend.

Cool, then i'll be doing that first then...

maybe even make the rear bars too... hmmm... :idea:

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

If you want more power I highly recommend the BEAMS 3S-GE (200hp naturally aspirated).

Or if you're keen on a 'flutter' (turbo) get a 3S-GTE from a 3rd gen Celica ST205.

Both require minimal work and almost bold straight in... altho a brake upgrade would certainly be necessary as you'll want to be able to stop lol. Just do a Google search for more info on either one.. Or a youtube search is even better if you wanna check out how they sound. My favorite is the BEAMS 3S-GE, it sounds awesome!

All the best.

** Actually here's a video of the beams to save you the trouble of youtube-ing it :)

Edited by Mudcake
Posted

Both require minimal work and almost bold straight in...

Incorrect, mount and wiring loom alone need to be custom, the loom is totally different.

Posted

Both require minimal work and almost bold straight in...

Incorrect, mount and wiring loom alone need to be custom, the loom is totally different.

This, nothing just 'bolts straight in'

Posted

that just made my mind up to a sensible, practical and cost effective conversion for the AE101...

i'm seriously gonna start saving right now... this very second!

know of 4 3S-GE Beams for sale in SE QLD alone...

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