2010 camry throttle and fuel problem

[pinifinina]

Hello guys

I have some issues with my 2010 Camry sportive, hope someone out there can help me. The thing is sometimes or occasionally when I am driving at low constant speed (such as 40 I'm/h), then all of a sudden when I step the gas, nothing happens, I either have to release the gas or step the gas even harder to get a response. How strange is this? This doesn't happen all the time, just sometimes, but I believe something must be not quite right because this is not normal. Can anyone help me with this issue? I am thinking will this be a spark plug or spark plug lead or computer issue? Something to do with the combustion of the engine. Or is there a throttle sensor? Is 2010 Camry drive by wire?

Another issue is I don't know if it is because of this problem, my fuel consumption is around 12L/100km. I mainly drive at north shore area in Sydney. Can anyone verify this with me and tell me if this is normal? I use 91 unleaded. Anyone out there please help me, thanks a lot in advance.

[Noodle Boy]

Hello guys

I have some issues with my 2010 Camry sportive, hope someone out there can help me. The thing is sometimes or occasionally when I am driving at low constant speed (such as 40 I'm/h), then all of a sudden when I step the gas, nothing happens, I either have to release the gas or step the gas even harder to get a response. How strange is this? This doesn't happen all the time, just sometimes, but I believe something must be not quite right because this is not normal. Can anyone help me with this issue? I am thinking will this be a spark plug or spark plug lead or computer issue? Something to do with the combustion of the engine. Or is there a throttle sensor? Is 2010 Camry drive by wire?

Another issue is I don't know if it is because of this problem, my fuel consumption is around 12L/100km. I mainly drive at north shore area in Sydney. Can anyone verify this with me and tell me if this is normal? I use 91 unleaded. Anyone out there please help me, thanks a lot in advance.

The acceleration issue could be associated with the throttle body, not entirely sure. Regarding the fuel consumption, I would like to ask how do you drive? Heavy footed, carry anything on board ect...?

[pinifinina]

Hello guys

I have some issues with my 2010 Camry sportive, hope someone out there can help me. The thing is sometimes or occasionally when I am driving at low constant speed (such as 40 I'm/h), then all of a sudden when I step the gas, nothing happens, I either have to release the gas or step the gas even harder to get a response. How strange is this? This doesn't happen all the time, just sometimes, but I believe something must be not quite right because this is not normal. Can anyone help me with this issue? I am thinking will this be a spark plug or spark plug lead or computer issue? Something to do with the combustion of the engine. Or is there a throttle sensor? Is 2010 Camry drive by wire?

Another issue is I don't know if it is because of this problem, my fuel consumption is around 12L/100km. I mainly drive at north shore area in Sydney. Can anyone verify this with me and tell me if this is normal? I use 91 unleaded. Anyone out there please help me, thanks a lot in advance.

The acceleration issue could be associated with the throttle body, not entirely sure. Regarding the fuel consumption, I would like to ask how do you drive? Heavy footed, carry anything on board ect...?

Hi there, I am a sensible driver, not a heavy foot and normally the car only carry 2 people including the driver and that's it, nothing else.

[Martinj]

Hi

I have a late 2009 Ateva. My fuel consumption is considered good if it averages 12l/100km. It is on the highway where Camry shines for economy, easily getting sub-7l/100km.

As for slow throttle response, it could be a problem but unlikely given it's such a new car. The Camry does have a VERY tardy throttle response. In fact, I often start to press the accelerator 1-2 seconds before I want to actually start moving.

If there is slow throttle response at speed (40km/h you say), most likely because she's staying in a high gear and the ECU needs to calibrate itself to the fact you want to get a move on, and kick down a gear or two (or three).

I regularly drive a current model diesel VW Golf and it displays similar bizarre throttle response.

Modern cars - who gets them, huh?

[pinifinina]

Hi

I have a late 2009 Ateva. My fuel consumption is considered good if it averages 12l/100km. It is on the highway where Camry shines for economy, easily getting sub-7l/100km.

As for slow throttle response, it could be a problem but unlikely given it's such a new car. The Camry does have a VERY tardy throttle response. In fact, I often start to press the accelerator 1-2 seconds before I want to actually start moving.

If there is slow throttle response at speed (40km/h you say), most likely because she's staying in a high gear and the ECU needs to calibrate itself to the fact you want to get a move on, and kick down a gear or two (or three).

I regularly drive a current model diesel VW Golf and it displays similar bizarre throttle response.

Modern cars - who gets them, huh?

Thanks for your response! I think you are right. I was paying special attention after I start this post. This slow response happens while the ECU is thinking what gear to change to. It happens when I am very gentle on the gas, then if I want to go a little bit further, nothing happens because it is thinking whether it should go down a gear or up a gear. So i was stuck in the gap during gear change. Is this normal? Can this be fixed? Is this a ECU problem or gear box problem? Anyone out there, please advise. thanks .

[aem]

How do you know the fuel economy when the readings goes up and down?

[FRM05A]

Another possibility… by memory, these Camry has a switch for the accelerator. It may be due to faulty/insensitive accelerator switch? Your car is still under warranty, should take it in to Toyota if you have any concerns.

As for the fuel consumption, I get approximately the same mileage in my 2000 V6 1MZ Camry. When I do add fuel additive, I get around 600 km from one tank (60 litre), also North Shore driving.

[aem]

Is this switch supposedly is part of the ECU, and which is tuned for performance/fuel consumption. If so the sportivo will drink cos it is tuned for perormance over a normal camry. Y/N?

[aem]

Much to my amazement, i top it up with shell 95 RON and the meter showing way less than 10L/100km. 8.5-9.0 is think which was meant to be for 2009+ model not 2007 but hey i'm not complaining.

[11/16Aurion 12Kluger]

We have 2 X ACV40R Camrys and one did have the problem you mention of having erratic throttle response.

That car had a new ecu under warranty recall and since then it has been fine. The response in both cars is instant.

I have also heard resetting the ecu will correct this sometimes... to clear the ecu remove the negative battery terminal for 30 min or more (I have left it off overnight).

I also found with the "learning" auto that if you tend to use manual change down it confuses the system. Leaving it in D it seems to behave more predictably after a while.

Throttle body cleaning makes a big difference to these cars too but yours would be too new to benefit from that yet.

Using the wrong oil will also give sluggish response. Only use 10-40 or better. Some dealerships throw in higher grade cheaper oil trying to make an extra $. It happened to one of ours... second service they put in 20-50 and the difference was very noticeable!

Edited January 8, 2012 by camryv6

[aem]

I have also heard resetting the ecu will correct this sometimes... to clear the ecu remove the negative battery terminal for 30 min or more (I have left it off overnight).

Throttle body cleaning makes a big difference to these cars too but yours would be too new to benefit from that yet.

Using the wrong oil will also give sluggish response. Only use 10-40 or better. Some dealerships throw in higher grade cheaper oil trying to make an extra $. It happened to one of ours... second service they put in 20-50 and the difference was very noticeable!

Thanks for the info, i might do the ecu thingy. As for the throttle cleaning, how is it done?

With the oil, how did you know the dealers put in 20-50w, wouldn't they be using the oem Toyota oil which i'm sure for the Camry isn't that (or is it)?

[11/16Aurion 12Kluger]

Thanks for the info, i might do the ecu thingy.

If you want to make sure it is fully reset then remove both battery terminals then remove the connector from the top of the ecu... no power then.

As for the throttle cleaning, how is it done? Google throttle body cleaning acv40r or the like... NOTE.. do not drop anything in there as you may have to remove the intake manifold to remove it!!! ****

With the oil, how did you know the dealers put in 20-50w, wouldn't they be using the oem Toyota oil which i'm sure for the Camry isn't that (or is it)?

Car dealers are not honest people and will do anything to make or save a $. My case was not the first time i have seen them caught using cheaper oil to save a $. Using the right oil in modern cars is a must!! (OEM toyota oil???... toyota do not make oil, just resell in their containers.)

[aem]

This arvo i took out the battery to clean so that would have reset the ecu somewhat. When i but it back and turn on the car, i notice things aren't as smooth, car shakes with a/c on during idle. Does it take abit of time to normalise (ECU)?

[11/16Aurion 12Kluger]

This arvo i took out the battery to clean so that would have reset the ecu somewhat. When i but it back and turn on the car, i notice things aren't as smooth, car shakes with a/c on during idle. Does it take abit of time to normalise (ECU)?

Take it for a drive for about 20k and see how it goes then. If no good then disconnect the battery fully then remove the connector at the top of the ecu for about an hour.

Both ours are smooth at idle with ac on and off at all temps.

***Be very careful fixing things that are not broken, you will be surprised at how much small errors can cost!!!! $$$. :-( ***

The internet is full of forums and advice sources like this. Spend a lot of time reading them before trying anything.

If you are not 100% sure then research some more until you are... or leave it alone.

I hope you disconnected the negative terminal first as i suggested??? ... then when reconnecting put the negative one on last?? That is a must.

Would hate to see you mess up that great car.

[DJKOR]

I hope you disconnected the negative terminal first as i suggested??? ... then when reconnecting put the negative one on last?? That is a must.

Would hate to see you mess up that great car.

The whole negative first thing isn't exactly a must. The action itself isn't going to cause any electronic damage etc as well. There's no need to really panic about it if you disconnect the positive first.

The real reason for it is to reduce the change of creating a dead short across the battery if you are unfortunate/unskilled enough to drop a spanner and have it land in a way that it contacts the positive terminal of the battery and any other metallic object of the car.

On a realistic side of things though, seeing that battery placement usually leads to te positive terminal to be the furtherest from the chassis when compared to the negative terminal. The chance of having a spanner drop and contact both the positive terminal AS WELL as the car body/engine/any other grounded component would be about the same as having one drop and short between the positive and negative terminal.

[11/16Aurion 12Kluger]

I hope you disconnected the negative terminal first as i suggested??? ... then when reconnecting put the negative one on last?? That is a must.

Would hate to see you mess up that great car.

The whole negative first thing isn't exactly a must. The action itself isn't going to cause any electronic damage etc as well. There's no need to really panic about it if you disconnect the positive first.

The real reason for it is to reduce the change of creating a dead short across the battery if you are unfortunate/unskilled enough to drop a spanner and have it land in a way that it contacts the positive terminal of the battery and any other metallic object of the car.

On a realistic side of things though, seeing that battery placement usually leads to te positive terminal to be the furtherest from the chassis when compared to the negative terminal. The chance of having a spanner drop and contact both the positive terminal AS WELL as the car body/engine/any other grounded component would be about the same as having one drop and short between the positive and negative terminal.

Interesting.... but I will stay with the procedure recommended by Toyota and "their" reason for doing so.

BTW... how is this relevant to this topic?

[aem]

I hope you disconnected the negative terminal first as i suggested??? ... then when reconnecting put the negative one on last?? That is a must.

Would hate to see you mess up that great car.

I'll leave it as so and drive it for a while and see if it's ok. As for the disconntion, yeh it was -ve first (during remove) and -ve last (when putting back battery) not that I knew it in advance.

Edited January 8, 2012 by aem