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Ben Yip 's ZRE Facelift


ben yip

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I use graphs too, doesn't make me better at things.

pacmancharthumor.jpg

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^^^ LAWLS! ultimate troll post :lol:

ben, ABS will only assist u in the dry, not in the wet. and i think what u mean by 50% braking is that when its wet, u can only apply 50% braking otherwise u will spin/ABS/slide?

As for me, since my first car didn't have ABS, now having a car with ABS i realise how useless ABS is. ever heard of threshold braking? this will give u a shorter stopping distance than ABS. its hell difficult on the wet but that depends which tyres u have on at the time as well.

ABS is sometimes annoying as well when you are braking to a stop over bumps as it kicks in when the wheel is air borne (esp on coilovers). if i could, i rather not have it in my car.

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Maybe the ABS can be disabled by removing a fuse or relay (It works in a VY Commodore), but best you research before trying it, It is very likely it will throw up a warning light, and who knows what else it will do?

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ABS is sometimes annoying as well when you are braking to a stop over bumps as it kicks in when the wheel is air borne (esp on coilovers). if i could, i rather not have it in my car.

Also, there is another factor called EBD, more brake will be applied on the wheel with more load, this also applies to sideway load. According to Toyota, (http://www.toyota.com.au/glossary)

The latest Toyota EBD can adjust the fore/aft brake balance according to vehicle load and the right/left brake balance if the brakes are applied during cornering. EBD is a new recent technology, cars fitted with ABS does not mean it is fit with EBD

Maybe the ABS can be disabled by removing a fuse or relay (It works in a VY Commodore), but best you research before trying it, It is very likely it will throw up a warning light, and who knows what else it will do?

Disabling ABS is not good considering how poor I use the brakes. There is only one situation where ABS is useless-snow or gravel, but who will drive fast in the snow, LOL!!!

After the last track day, I start to appreciate today's braking technology more and more

Edited by ben yip
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who will drive fast in the snow? LOL!!

*whistles*

(Dont judge me!! it was off the streets :P )

Anything that isnt dry tarmac makes ABS useless, but even on tarmac i find it quite restricting.

Edited by Toyota_kid
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ABS is designed for emergency stopping situations when you just slam the brakes on. It is not something you should encounter in normal driving or even on the racetrack, because it means you aren't braking properly. It does not improve your braking. As had been said, threshold braking (where you brake with 99% of available traction so you don't lose grip) will always pull you up faster than ABS which is actually pulsing the brakes on and off to prevent lockups

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  • 2 weeks later...

Inspired by Dutchie101 who has installed this, I got this ground effector today

!BwLbO9w!2k~$(KGrHqYOKiwEwRToRkPCBMH)fJYVs!~~_1_2520_1.JPG

01_p01.jpg

01_p02.jpg

p1.jpg

$260 include delivery, order from http://www.plotonline.com/others/customer.html They speak English. Part number is 51413

Installation menu is http://www.plotonline.com/dcuatro/others/pdf_data/manual/ge1/51413.pdf

They work from 50km/h up, I guess I should be able to feel it in highways or track days

Google translate of a review, the amount of download actually suprise the author. I have read other reviews which is positive about it as well

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fmru.txt-nifty.com%2Fblog%2F2009%2F03%2Fground-effector.html&act=url

Edited by ben yip
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looking quicker and quicker mate. hurry up and get those semis u will be surprise how much difference it makes on the track

Edited by mark2zz
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even I doubt whether these 2 metals are effective. I cannot find any review article in English about this thing, I can only find Japanese reviews

$260 is expensive because JPY is very expensive, it actually cost 20K JPY include delivery, few years ago, 1JPY=1 AUD, now 1JPY=1.3 AUD

I cannot find a scientific measurement of how useful is this thing

I still have not installed it since I just ordered yesterday from Japan, so cannot test out.Comparison of lap times will tell in the future..

I agree that I am wasting my money, but modding car is waste of money anyways, and car racing is a sport that is dangerous and waste of money, even I dun know why I do this sport

Since dutchie101 has installed it here

I dun mind giving it a shot as well

I have read a few review in japanese, they are quite positive. Read the following about one guy driving RX8, (google translate is still not good)

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&layout=2&eotf=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fkamekichi.blogzine.jp%2Frx8%2F2005%2F09%2Fpost_dd11.html&act=url

I probably to be a geniue pig to try this thing. May be it gives me suprise. May be I am a moron after all !!

Edited by ben yip
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I agree that I am wasting my money, but modding car is waste of money anyways,

:D :toast:

I concur modding cars is a big waste of money but heaps of fun and i get a kick out of it,imo it's healthier and sometimes cheaper than drugs & gambling. :D

  • Like 1
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my bmw came with 2 pairs of these underbody flaps from factory... so maybe they are useful in cars at stock

My mum's Lexus gs460 has them as well. I've always wondered what they are for as they visually stick out and ruin the flow of the car.

edit: Massive english fail.

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my bmw came with 2 pairs of these underbody flaps from factory... so maybe they are useful in cars at stock ground clearance.

The Sportivo has them in front of the frotn wheels too. I remember reading some article explaining them a long time ago. I suspect the aim on the Sportivo was to reduce the drag caused by the rotating wheels.

ahh so that's what they r for. I was considering to not move them on the new guard arch when track day melted them. luckily I did. :D I thought it was funny how mud flaps were at the front of the wheel :lol:

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have put R888 semis today, will test it out this weekend, hope to get some 1:14

parts%20r%20888%2015.jpg

Car has been returned to stock rims, a bit ugly

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Went to wakefield 2 weeks ago, PB is 1:16.7 in the last part of the video chasing up the R34, got 2 major incidents on that day, have to end the day early

Here is the video of my race, racing with

BMW E30 323i

Honda EG and EK Civic

Integra DC5 Type R

Nissan Skyline R34 GTR

Toyota Celica GT4

That R34 has been giving me few clogs of black smoke at the last corner at 11:33

Sound quality is bad due to made in china quality camera.

That stock Type R is faster than me on the straight, but not by a big margin, the difference between my car and his car is not big

On the contrary, I am just a bit faster than that stock E30 (with weight reduction) on the straight, which has 110kw (at the crank)..

My conclusion is you really need to have big power difference or a turbo in order to run out somebody on the straight

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anO7J-V4aFo

Hot hatch battle

379905_10150440607333649_697883648_8693503_607377160_n.jpg

A 197X Corolla

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6501668145_1e136458c1.jpg

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Celica GT4 Rally

6501671527_56c5ca7af9.jpg

On one incident where one car broke the gear box and left the debris flying around, and damaged my friend's Holden

IS200

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My Car

6480544611_6a11b78e06_z.jpg

Edited by ben yip
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  • 3 weeks later...

Hey Ben pretty sure i spotted you this arvo coming from the north heading southbound into sydney on a main freeway (#1 ?), car looks a bit funny with the stock wheels on

I could be wrong though :unsure:

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inspired by Juvenile regarding rear sway bar in http://au.toyotaowne...915#entry330915

I also decide to give up by Cusco 16mm solid sway bar and changes to 20mm adjustable solid ones

387281_10151104102780697_634740696_22024327_1622703011_n.jpg

but the design is like this, with rear ends of the bar attaching to one of the hole of the sway bar to make it adjustable (using sway links I guess)..

and the torsion axle holding the bar on each side

2281r_install.jpg

Price is close to $500 mark due to its adjustable nature (I know it is ripped off, but I dun have a choice, and since it is customised, it is reasonable for extra labour)

This should fix the understeer problem after changing to Toyo R888 on track..(video at signature, not a good run)

16mm is too soft anyways when compared to other FWD cars with similar suspension design (Golf GTI, Ford Focus XR5, Corolla ZZE)

Research shows 20 to 24mm is the reasonable thickness for our cars for aftermarket sway bars, but I am still testing

AND

My exhaust has rattle noise near the resonator when the engine revs at 600rpm idle, believe to have cracked developed..

My car is not even a turbo car, and the exahust has problems so early..sigh. How can I buy an expensive car to track !!!

Edited by ben yip
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I also decide to give up by Cusco 16mm solid sway bar and changes to 20mm adjustable solid ones

This should fix the understeer problem after changing to Toyo R888 on track..(video at signature, not a good run)

16mm is too soft anyways when compared to other FWD cars with similar suspension design (Golf GTI, Ford Focus XR5, Corolla ZZE)

Research shows 20 to 24mm is the reasonable thickness for our cars for aftermarket sway bars

Anyone interested in my cusco 16mm sway bar can PM me.. I am selling it..

but ben didnt you say..

putting a rear sway bar (the 16mm cusco ones) will make the car so much fun to drive, I do not recommend going over 16mm, otherwise bad oversteering will occur...I have to adjust my coilover at the back to the softest to fix the little oversteering even with 16mm in the 80km/h 90 degrees corner (the first corner of the track in my video, many cars doing drifting there)..The factory one at the front is 16mm..

I have also experimented the thickness of sway bar in my computer simulator for FF cars, they must be the same or bad oversteer will occur

would this happen if rsb is too thick ?

standard.jpg

*confused*

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Thanks, Jeff for reminding I was shooting myself regarding my own words !!!!

Correction: The front sway bar for ZRE is 25.4mm, not 16mm (to be confirmed)

Whether it is 16mm or 20mm is really an experimental thing, and it is always a puzzle for me. At that time (september), I am still a beginner to track, skills are still yet to develop. Now I am still learning, but obviously, my skills are better than in sepetember. Now I can do quite consistent lap times, whereas in september, I cannot..

I have asked KMAC suspension for the thickness for FF car, he told me, 20-24...

Looking at whiteline web site for their rear sway bars

ZZE: 22mm

AE92, AE101, AE82: 18mm

VW Golf GTI: 24mm

Ford Focus XR5: 22mm

These number is just for reference, each suspension geometry is different, but ZZE, Golf GTI both using Torsion beam at the back and front struct, so the set up is quite close..

and I have no idea what is the spring rate they are using..

Also, I guess the ZRE has a really thick front sway bar (to be confirmed), I have checked the cusco front sway bar for ZRE, and the cusco ones has 30mm,

checking at RHDJapan for 925 311 A30, the ZRE152N has original thickness of 25.4mm, so I guess our ZRE has the same thickness of 25.4

Some other factors also to consider

1. After I put front upper struct brace and front lower struct brace, the car starts to understeer more (I dun have these in september)

2. After I increase the thickness of suspension by turning the coilover, the lift off oversteer reduces

3. After I switch to semi slick, the lift off oversteer reduces

4. After you take off the back seat and front seat, the rear is more grippy

5. After you change the tyre pressure (I dun know how to tweat this in september)

6. Personal driving style

7. Camber?

Too many factors involved only lap time will tell whether I have made the right decision

Edited by ben yip
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