Nearly sorted, end in sight.

[Manxman]

Wiring almost completed-have spliced irreplacable connectors' wires to 2L, and will MAKE a 30sec timer to hold the gloplugs on full power from ign on, long enough to heat them up properly. When it times out the glo lamp will go off and things will revert to normal operation. I will patch it into and trigger it from the No1 glow relay power feed.

I will HAVE to remember to remove it when the 5L goes back in.

Have the glowplug thermistor left to splice in too.

I need some 2.0 - 2.5mm dia eyelet [insulated] crimp connectors for my VDO e-oil pressure gauge. Suspect it's a Bosch part only, but need abt 5 of them. Anyone?

Edited June 16, 2013 by Manxman

[Steven]

Mate any chance of posting up some photos of your build?

[Manxman]

Click Memebers Galleries near top right of screen,

click Manxman near top left of screen

click on <the swap> to expand folder...3 pics. She's a rough old girl, but she's mine and I want to keep her going.

PS I want a big cargo box in the gap behind the cabin....... Yes I have the correct front tray mounts, $96- ea new, $25-ea used. Fiddly fit, but not impossible. Will have to get it certified, of course. Good tubs getting scarce-it was $50- + lights. Won't touch 5L until next year, when I've cleared some bills. I expect to need rings, crank and a rod as minimum major parts. If my crank OK after regrind/X-ray I'll consider myself v blessed. Motor will need a complete internal wash out to remove failed brg wastes as there's grit in cambox oil.

[Manxman]

I have a bit more done-motor mounts secured. Can't undo dipstick nut on crankcase-extremely tight--is it locktited? Neither of them wil undo without rounding.. Damn soft bolts-it'll be a real bugger to get out now. I really hope I don't have to pull the motor out just to get it. I have an alternative dipstick tube ready to go in, but I want to remove the nut to clean/drill thru it. All my electrics are done, apart from the oil light wire, and the exhaust remains unfinished. I'll get onto it today, by cutting the header pipe under the drivers door to remove the front section, then I can easily cut the flange off with a decent stub, and reassemble the whole with the flange rotated and close sleeves over the cuts to reaseal the pipe. I still have a manifold stud to extract, but that will take more than presently available.. I've undone the clamp on the header pipe at the bellhousing area, so maybe I can extract it more easily. I have almost all the plumbing done, just need some clamps and coolant. Turbo timer and immob are fitted, have yet to make monostabe 555 timer to extend glow lamp on time to 30-40 sec $70 for generic timer is too much, when I can build one for abt $8-.

[Manxman]

A problem. My exhaust pipe is prob too close to my oil gauge sender at the back of the motor. Is there some other simple place to put it? NB I'm an idiot-motor didn't have an oil switch fitted-so I really have no proof it's any good, apart from it used to run ok without knocking.

Futher progress-exhaust cut and sleeved, ready to go in, glow timer extender made-now 38sec constant pre-glow time. just needs installing somewhere.... Need to replace R torque rod as hit it with grinder when cutting ex pipe. Have one on order, ditto tailshaft brg. extraction of rounded dipstick nut v difficult. need to get mig welder onto it. v dirty there, might get fire? A few heater clamps and some more oil, and she's almost ready to check all electrics, fill radiator, couple up the intake to airfilter and test start motor. Progress! I reckon it'll be running on or before Sat 6/7/2013. Driveable by Wed following, I hope. It really needs a good clean/detailing. I might pay someone, as I can't get down to do it, and car washes are pretty useless. I have a Karcher washer-a bucket of hot water and some good soap might be enough?

BTW, I learned something the hard way. Those cheap 650W Chinese gensets need a minimum resistive load of 200W to get full 240V output. So you need more than just a soldering iron or laptop/reading lamp. I guess other units are similar. What can I do with 200W when camping, etc?

[Manxman]

The ex stud snapped, so the end fitting is removed from the turbo to be drilled and all threads tapped out.

The dipstick bolt is now loose, with 8mm vertical play, but is captive in the motor.

It was v tight for an hours' small turns with a breaker bar, then it finally loosened.

So it sump off for me, pref in situ, or motor out as needed. Any advice?

That leave only the tailshaft brg and the R torsion bar to be replaced next week.

#####################################################

PS The dipstick bolt is a TIGHT chilled press fit I'm told, so I can wrench it out with a slide hammer or puller. It will be interesting to get. At least I can rotate it to weld all around it. That means I don't have to drop the sump. GREAT NEWS. Hilux Heaven-thanks 4 the info. much relieved.

#####################################################

PS#2

It's out! Hammer and cold chisel from below onto exposed coner of bolt head,

2 taps and it flew out. I have it, and can have it drilled thru' with the flange. Simple jobs for an engineering shop, as I don't have the drill press needed. Wonderful. What a good day! It's Friday, and most engieeing shops close abt 4pm today. I'll have to hurry off if it's to get done early next week.

Edited July 5, 2013 by Manxman

[Manxman]

Dipstick done! lost a nut holding the back bend on the turbo-- looks like 11mm hex exhaust nut. It's hung up somewhere, tho' I can't see/feel it anywhere, can't progress that until I get a replacement. Gosh that bottom one is hard to get at with my short, thick arms and large hands! Tailshaft brg nut undone, but my puller is rusted up so I can't get the flange off. The torsion bar--I'll leave it to last. I have the option of a boost gauge to fit. It's now raining-2.5 days expected, so I've stopped. I have some heater plumbing to restore and refit the starter motor, both blocked access to the dipstick plug. A sealed grub screw to lock the sleeve into the water inlet housing will allow me to fill the radiator.

[Manxman]

Well, It's nearly all done! It needs some more oil, the downpipe for the exhaust needs remaking, as the old one is too short/wrong angles. Then there's the torsion bar & tailshaft bearing....... Some water/coolant, test the electrics, and we can fire it up. Pump the tires, take it for a test drive.

[Manxman]

Tailshaft done, water in radiator-holding. electrics seem to work but need to test glowpug power hold interval, and that the plugs are still good. I've designed a better glowplug holding cicuit, which, having held the power on for time T=~35sec, will then allow original timed pulses of power to maintain afterglow. Startup should be at S=30sec. A cheap countdown timer will be masticed to the dash to guide driver to at S. That may need abandoning in favour of a commercial generic PWM superglow timer, but it is cheap and easy to make up. I haven't tested the gloplugs independently-but I will. Motor spins over OK, but doesn't yet fire. Will be fuel or glows. Sulphated battery [660CCA) doing great job atm. Didn't expect it to still be this good. Will google glowplug preheat timing for 1985 4 Runner, and 1989 2LII. Will copy the one most likely to suit.

[Manxman]

Found the glowplug wire down near the L eng mount. Put it in above the blue insulator, & the glowplug bus strip, and under the black insulator, and put the Earth that goes to the rear of the block into place. All is well. I think, with a bit more oil, it can be started up, but I won't risk it with only ~1/2 a sumpfull. I still have no oil pressure detection fitted, as the exhaust has to be away from it and that isn't in yet. And it will be LOUD, having no significant exhaust pipe, just a 3" stub out of the flange. I note that the 1989 2LII converted motor has a later model inlet manifold, with 5L type superglow arrangements and a vacuum operated butterfly to help kill the motor. It may be normal, but I doubt it. I cannot see any resistor around the glow connection in the manifold-they both look exactly the same. Apart from the electrical connector to the vacuum switch which is a different colour and physically different to prevent swapping parts from year to year, even though they both do exactly the same thing for the same reasons, the manifolds are identical. I'll conceed the manifold might be part of the turbo kit, but I wouldn't have thought it necessary, unless it's a larger dia than the std one. Without bigger valves and ports, that's not a great advantage.

[Manxman]

No fire yet, Spins ok, most telltales on, except for glowplugs. timer fail? Need to check power at plugs. Water in filter light is on, does it go out if no water only as motor runs and charges batt? Does it kill glow if water in filter? Apparently not.

[Manxman]

We have power at the glowplugs-perhaps they're burned out, I'll check the resistance- 0.4 Ohms total=1.6 Ohms each cold==abt 8 amp each. Reasonable to assume 4 plugs ok. Forgot to prime fuel system!!!!! Waiting on battery recharge to try again.

Waiting on fuse for compressor to pump tyre. Pump needs 60A fuse, not avail in std auto fuse range, and 50A isn't enough. Bought 60A Maxi fuse, need an holder. Autopro <$15-. Temp bypass jumper in the old holder does the trick. Tyre valve leaking, fitted metal cap to seal it, plastic ones are never any good for that. So we wait for another day to get it to go.

My glowplug pre-heating light is blown. I may put an extended timer onto it to help me give the plugs time to warm up. The timer keeps the 12V on the plugs indefinitely, until it starts, then pulses the plugs to keep them hot while the motor warms up. When the motor temp reaches a set figure, they are powered off.

[Manxman]

I finally worked out that I can use the 5L plugs in the 2LII, which will mean no mods to the timer circuit. A great relief. When the rain stops [another week prediced so far] I'll continue with the batt recharge and perhaps exchange plugs between the engines. I will also replace the pre-heat light. NB I do not know what plugs are in the 2LII, but I'll find out. AFAIR it's a 10mm and deep 12mm socket job, with fair access past the manifold.

[Manxman]

Q.

If I undo the fuel pipe banjo on the fuel pump, should I be able to prime the line to it with the hand priming pump?

Mine is sucking air back(?)-is my hand primer dead?--it does go harder but not rock hard like some others I've had. Fuel seems to drain back into tank if delivery line is opened. Darn Tojo for not making it repairable. They love making money from owners.

Glow plugs swapped between motors. I have decided that the plug type and connections should be according to the timer type installed, as all plugs seem to interchange across the L series motors. I also think I've overfilled the sump, as I'm unfamilliar with the new dipstick, and one side is always clean. I've put in at least 8L, but there's no clear reading on the stick. I think I'll have to pull it off again and clean it up to remove mastic from the joint into the sump plug.

[Manxman]

I shouldn't complain about the rain, we need every drop, but I've got a car to get running before the 28/8/2013, and cold, wet weather doesn't help. Not that there's a lot left to do-just make the header pipe mods in the eng bay, replace the drivers' torsion bar, re-plumb the fuel (primer and filter/water trap) as separate units, totally clean the dipstick tube joint and re-seal it, bleed the injectors, connect the air filter and correct the sump level. Perhaps filter the fuel & replace the tank filter? It's almost year older now. Then fire the old girl up and see if all the effort was worthwhile. At some convenient time, silver solder a large nut to the base of the fuel tank and make a drain with a banjo type bolt installed. Tojo, you cheap-****s-why do I have to install it myself? It should be standard equipment. You charge enough to get one, owners should not have to do this. Someone will say I'll knock the nut off. I won't, because I don't drive where that happens, [& I'll shield it] and if its OEM, its inside the tank, and safer.

[Manxman]

REJOICE!!!!!! IT RUNS!!!! Borrowed a dead Pajero's fuel primer/filter unit, pumped it up and spun it. Self-bled & fired in 30 sec. Throttle held open by tight cable-3000rpm cold. Adjusted that back, went to restart and Starter pinion stripped-don't THINK starter loose, as it spins so evenly, but maybe I forgot to tighten it?. It was worn, but now it's gone? Pinions not too dear, I can get one & fit it. I'll re-fit the 5L starter in the morning-it's perfect, & at 200W more, will really spin the old girl fast. Amayzing how good a old, sulphated battery can be. My new fuel/water filter has arrived from Melb, but not the separate primer bulb from UK. I'll need new hoses too when I put it in.

Great to know it does go. Will have to pull instrument cluster and re-place/re-fit glow pre-heat light. I suspect I removed it with its holder, but can't now find any of it. Unloaded motor with 3" long exhaust stub @ manifold is not very noisy at 7pm, but loaded will be different. LED's in boost gauge don't work-24V/blown? I can sort that. Not hard. Not reversed! Really motivated to get rest finished now, as I have other projects that need attention. Thanks eveyone, for putting up with me. I'll be around from time to time, may put a video-clip onsite to show what it's like. My car needs a real good clean and new/recovered seats [filthy]. Viva la Karcher in the shed!!!!!!

[Manxman]

Spoke too soon-the Alternator? is polling badly with the belts tensioned. Sounds very awful! Motor idling abt 800rpm, slight misfire and much smoke (from over-full sump.?) Perheat light now working by itself. Alternator captive by the spacing sleeves in it's mount holes moving out into the main mount, trapping the Alt. Will get some sleeves , silver solder to a modest bolt and tap them in from both ends, releasing the alt. It's an 89 motor, is there an alt rebuild kit w hoses andvacuum rotor?

[Manxman]

Please don't tell me this is normal. The bush in the far alternator mount flange has pushed in [forwards] and made the alternator captive to the bracket by fouling in it. I can't separate them. I dread hacksawing thru' the bush tomorrow.....My hands will be ruined. Ideas, anyone, please. I don't see a way of using a drift, as it would have to expand just after the bush starts---it's a 14mm shaft, I could use a dynabolt/sim from the back!!!! Brilliant, even if I do have to bus 8-9km, 90min round trip to Bunnings. Tried to re-wire my 24V boost gauge LED's, but can't get them working. Will have to replace them. Awful circuit assembly in gauge-almost impossible to work on. But I did it, with a little damage to the sensitivity/neutral point.

[Manxman]

Being unable to move the spacer, I'm about to hacksaw thru it to release the alternator. This is the worst option, but the only practical one left. It will take 1/2hr, with my weak hands/arms, & may get my hands damaged. My temp exhaust header just needs the clamp tightening [poor fit on 50mm pipe], and I've extracted 4L of oil from the sump, hoping that's enough to lower the level to reasonable, or top up. I prob can't get alt parts today [sat}, but I can get them Mon/Tues. I've lost track of some important small tools, thanks to a visitor, and that's holding me up. After these, I have the R torsion bar to replace-cleaning the thread will be awkward, and perhaps I don't have the strength to do it? We'll see. New alt >$530- at Auto sparky, ~$230 on-line, but I only need it for 12 mths, so I'll repair it if I can. Auto-sparky will just have to be satisfied with selling me the parts, as I've no intention of letting him do what I can do for myself. They'll prob be abt $70 or less. He did his best to persuade me to let them test and replace it, that's where the money is, but I won't do it unless it's totally u/s. It's bad for the environment to keep replacing modules rather than individual parts, and new car production produces too much pollution compared to keeping an old one going. This is a satisfactory vehicle, the last year of it's type, and I don't want anything newer-because it's more expensive long term, and less reliable-EFI junk. It might use a fraction more fuel, and thus produce more GHG's, but it is affordable over it's [& my forseeable driving] lifespan [another 11 yrs], and I'm happy with it. The 5L, IMO is too powerful for this ute, there was no need to make it. Marketing, not practical driving, demanded the bigger engine. What a waste. The 3L was unavailable in 1999? It was sufficient. It would have been ok. The opposition was forcing the power race, and Toyota thought they couldn't afford to withdraw from the lunacy. By continuing it, they impose higher costs on the buyers, whom they slug pretty hard anyway. Tojo's utes/4x4's aren't cheap. They are good, and they are generally the best option in this country, but boy, you pay for the privilige of getting one. Then you keep paying for parts and service. DIY and independent mechanics are getting phased out of modern vehicles, and dealers are sometimes demanding poor design choices so they have a gauranteed maintenance income stream. I find that reprehensible.

[Manxman]

<p>Exhaust is secured, sump 1cm overfull--I really put a lot in it!  Nowhere to store any more I take out.   And the alternator is out!!!!  Now, is my weak "tendonitised elbow" strong enough to undo the screws, or will I have to cut and replace them, like I usually do?   The screw heads usually chew out, even with an impact driver.    The hoses are filthy, I will replace them.  There are hosetails on the vacuum pump, I don't know if that's normal/preferred, but I'd like banjos there too.   More $$$, more mucking around, but I think it's worth doing well.   A 28" pipe wrench will hold the pulley whilst I undo the nut-I've found that the best tool.   I have 2 of them--$10 ea from WA Salvage all those yrs ago.   Bit worried abt the brushes-I think they'll be broken separating it, but I was going to replace them anyway.      Here goes.....</p>

<p> </p>

<p>And the front brg has failed, the brushes are almost new, and the rest looks ok.  1 screw longer than the others-took abt 10 min ea to cut them, holding the blade in my hand.   It's been a good day.  It's 1350, and I've abt done all I can and need to.  </p>

Edited August 17, 2013 by Manxman

[Manxman]

Alternator repaired, back in-but for oil drain banjo--won't start in the thread! Working blind, and alt body cutting bloodflow to hand. Cannot get it today-job for tomorrow, or someone else. 8 bolts & 3 belts to warm-up and prove cooling system good & motor oil tight. It's THAT close. I'm tired, my knees ache and I can't do any more today. I did clean the seats-I'll vacuum the floor pans tomorrow, & maybe wash her down with the Karcher and soap after the exhaust & inlet pipes sorted.

[Manxman]

Yer Ready???

It's going, and in the shop getting the exhaust fixed. My old battery died, but I expected that.

Drives well-turbo is a bit noisy-whining, but I'm happy!!! It drives well, performance is enough.

Now, to just get that 5L out of the tray and into my back yard. Then I can rest a bit easier.

G'Day all!

[Manxman]

We have a working airfilter, exhaust and fuel system. The car drives OK-abt 25km so far, not much going wrong. Still have to sort the torsion bar-mechanics won't allow owner-supplied parts, so it's more DIY. Also, in the morning, I'll fit the oil pressure sender. I hope it clears the exhaust pipe, I'm too sore to get down and look now. Motor needs a bit of cranking to start, then idles well at 900rpm, seems to pull away well, and cruise ok at city speeds. Turbo noise is much less now, more a rushing water sound - not harsh, just a shoooooooosh. Not annoying yet. Exhaust is louder, a distinct burble, but not exessive. The radio will easly drown them out, without offending anyone. Australia, we have ignition, and all systems are go.

[Manxman]

Still at it! NOS battery:720cca @ $99- does nicely thanks.

PS pump mount bolt too loose-scrubbing on back of pulley. Sorted!

Oil mist spraying from oil filler hole. Blowby + turbo pressures are making seal impossible, unless the filler cap insetr into the cover can be/needs replacement????? Cap jams on tight, might not leak from it. This IS an old motor, hoses look innocent. I'm willing to hear better explanation. Oil on firewall behind motor and all down the R side of the motor/bay. 2L in 330km! Fire risk?????? Can't easily measure block net pressure. atm.

BTW My new L knee is GREAT! As good as the other one! Just not ready to drive yet--6 more weeks? Cannot kneel, nor bend low at all, perhaps never again. Certainly not for 6 mths, to give the new parts/old muscles/tendons time to settle in. 24mths to full recovery.

[Manxman]

Good and not so good news. The bad: the inserts do leak as they age on blowy motors. The good: the insert for the filler cap thread is still available, but none in Oz-4wks back order on Japan. <$12-, ordered it. Cover comes only naked, and I won't risk a used one. I'll fit a new cover gsk when I install it. That might solver the problem. Dread the actual crankcase mean pressure figure. Will order glowplugs now, as starting is singular cold, but seems ok hot.