Nearly sorted, end in sight.

[Manxman]

Mate confirmed first thoughts: Something caught between eng pulley and front of motor. Something hard.

I have the puller, just have to do it.

Apexi turbo timer not setting-perhaps because O2 sensor wire not grounded?

Oil pressure gauge has no power-cheap blue foldup wire splicers don't work-told dealer to toss the lot and get the white/yellow ones with the self-locking clamp. They actually work. He said I wasn't the only one to complain, now they might do something.

No positive air pressure at idle, mech gauge flickers to abt 10 deg of scale -ve pressure from 0 reading.

Eagle Blue Genset-cheap Bunning 2st Chinese thing, 650VA @ 230V + 8A @ 12Vdc-full wave rectified.

fuel leak in storeage==bad tap and [fuel hose &/or needle and seat].

Bad O ring under tap

Float height too high-==motor too rich, adjustable? Can't remember.

Needs min 200W load for 230V op.

Bought 240V 200W ceramic load from ebay-will place in in cooling air discharge, with a manual switch on/off.

Will enable 230V laptop/camp light light useage.

12Vdc 5.5A u/s==blown diode. Bought 35A bridge rectifier-will never blow it.

Bought polarized plug to connect with and made up a charging cable with alligator clips.

Edited September 21, 2013 by Manxman

[Manxman]

Fitted new cam box gsk, and silicone hoses for turbo, with new breather hoses too.

Replacing oil hoses to/from Vacuum pump, and O ring in pump body.

dipstick tube is loose-will remove and silver solder to plug in sump.

Considering whether to refit jackmaster filter to de-carbonize the oil, believing that's what turbo's do. I will dab a bit of loctite in the end of the sandwich plate nut so it doesn't unscrew when I change filters.

Turbo is identified as CT20-the water jacket is blanked off, so I won't worry about it, as it's been disconnected a very long time, & I'd have to recon the unit to be sure it wouldn't fail if I connected it now

Considering a catch can to collect breather oil. Not hard to do, if it's big enough.

2nd Apexi turbo timer blown by incorrect connections, which are now fixed. Pity I have to buy the whole thing when all I want is the dash unit.

Edited October 15, 2013 by Manxman

[Manxman]

O ring is 55mm x 3mm; have to get from brg shop.

Q. Does the vacuum pump have one or 2 O rings in the joint between the alt and the pump? The oil bleed hole looks like it's supposed to have some sort of sealing with the pump face-silastic? No gsk, so I'm just asking.....

Unhappy with local auto parts shops-only stock imperial soft washers, nothing metric. When did we change over, and we're still dealing with this rubbish????? The best thing I've seen all week was the paper oil funnels at Supercheap. That's a good idea.

Repair of 5L doesn't look too expensive now I have a realistic recon kit price and I've bought an engine stand. Still 6 mths before I have cash to do anything.

Just dreaming:-does the CT20 turbo exhaust adapter manifold fit the 5L head? I'll prob never need the improvements it offers, nor have to worry abt the heat, but it's a tempting thought to fit it and not frig with the exhaust pipe again. I usually cruise abt ~3000rpm on long runs- with modest loads on flatish roads. I think I'd get away with it.

PS# O ring fitted-if bolts too tight alternator jams, so I've left it 1/2 turn loose and re-fitted it. Will have it all done by weekend if Auspost can get the silicone hose from Melb by tomorrow. Still very tired and sore, can't get much done in my short work spurts [10-15min/hr].

Re-cargo box I plan to mount mid ute--I just thought I could most easily make the side frames from 2 angle iron beds, and just weld up lateral separators.

Edited October 17, 2013 by Manxman

[Manxman]

Well, I fixed the oil leak-it was the vacuum pump oil supply hose, fitting loose in the block and weakly clamped new hose-redid it and all ok. Got correct O ring, went together perfectly. Whilst looking for leaks I looked at the engine pulleys-the back 2 were wobbling badly. Harmonic ballancer fail! Will swap harmonic ballancer from 5L-should be a perfect fix. I can get another later as needed. Guess the tinging I could hear was the rear pulleys hitting the front ones. The horrible crunches-prob rocks etc caught behind and inside the pulleys-tho' I'll know & post later when I strip it down. All I need atm is a heavy hammer to shock the bolts undone, but my orginal has walked......

Edited November 2, 2013 by Manxman

[Manxman]

Is it viable to rebond/reglue harmonic ballancers? Mine has utterly separated.

[Manxman]

Oil leak persists. Will put it up on ramps early and get under it if I can. Hopefully I'll see the leak source. I hope it's NOT the new hose, which was overlength and jammed V hard & stiff into the space. I put a compression fitting adapter into the oil cooler and ran the hose straight off it and around to the vacuum pump. It was abt 30mm too long for a comfortable fit, and whilst it was supposed to stand 2000psi and it's barely getting 50psi, but It may have leaked/come loose. It will be some $60 to replace, as I doubt it can be cut and re-terminated once used. I have my new engine stand, and will mount up my 5L when my house is tidyer & I can get to it. I have my doubts about the compression applied to the hose fittings-They may be loose? The 16mm od hose is not greatly compressed, which I would have expected.

[Manxman]

Well, now I know:

used Harmonic balancer is wobbling-lasted 4 weeks.

Cooling system has leak on front passenger side of motor.

Vacuum oil supply line too long, jamed in on an angle to the banjo bolt and leaking at the washers on the alternator.

New oil filter too loose-tightened.

[Manxman]

Oil banjo is sealed, by cutting the hose nearer correct length and using 3 washers on the bolt. My masticed inserted aluminium spigot in the water intake pipe has been moved, and is leaking. I will have to extract and reseal it. Harm bal is not moving much, I suspect it will fail, but not for a while. I should be able to drive 15km without a radiator cap in mild traffic tonight. I'll HAVE to get some soft curing mastic whilst I'm out and let it cure o'night.

[Manxman]

I have a slo-leaking head gsk in the 2L, but hope to be able to fund 5L repairs/replacement early next year, abt Feb-March. If I buy used motor, not rebuilt, then I will have to be certain the head is good. I'm waiting on doing some miles to get idea of oil consumption w/o leaks. Keep full with sump oil & run til it stops. Change it and filter every 2000km. If OEM mileage it's done 370000km, which ain't bad. Will sell off turbo kit comp when I've finished, and maybe a few parts. Head/block will be u/s, - boat anchor stuff. Need clean oiled rag to store parts removed from 5L whilst I examine it. Should be able to start stripping it in Jan, if other things moved out of the way.

[Manxman]

For the time being, it appears I'm finished with motor repairs. What I have will run for some time without further effort/money. That leaves me free to finish off the cargo box I want between the single cab and the dual cab tray [72cm x 90cm hi, & across the tray, upto 180cm]. I've decided to vertically frame it from old steel single beds, chopping some up to make the horizontals [72cm]. It can later be clad w sheet metal and pop rivets. I want big doors on the outer ends. It's my Christmas project. It will be big enough to carry/store things I can't fit in the cab, and bigger/cheaper than a commercial box mounted onto a full length tray, & with a lower floor and cheaper than a dual cab. It will need considerable re-inforcement, inc. both front and floor having the steel mattress mesh in place to spread the load out across a larger area, esp in crash conditions. I was hoping it would take the mass of a shared cab-top platform for sleeping, but either way, it will have an overhead heat shield to help cool it & the cabin in the intense sun. I haven't decided whether to install rear vision windows for the driver. It will have lighting and 12V power. I realize a second framework could support the overhead platform, but I'm trying to keep it simple, and not waste my tray space.

Edited December 21, 2013 by Manxman

[Manxman]

Small problem: 2L with T Motor slow to fire up [min 5 secs], takes longer if left longer. Fires on one cylinder, then others join in over several more seconds. Suspect air leaking into fuel system. No external fuel leaks observed. Have replaced fuel filter/primer with generic parts. Tightened BSP threads, but no tape on them. Loosened banjo at pump and re-tightened. primer not initially hard unless squeezed a few times. Can run-back occur thru' faulty pump return line system? Not affected by fuel level in tank. Not noticably worsening. fast re-starting is ok, but an hour off is enough to cause slow restart. A few days, and the awful bendix style starter makes life hard for me and the battery. pump has turbo boost compensator. Advice pls?

[Manxman]

Progress!

Fiberglass canopy fitted to d'cab tub, and 3mm checkerplate steel floor bought for the mid-tray box. MIG welding isn't difficult, and I should be able to frame and clad it over time. The hard part is lining up the floor with the tray mounts to drill the holes, and then drilling them. I only have a 3/8" chuck, and I need 4x 15mm holes. I don't want to weld the bolts or nuts into place, as that will weaken them, and it's darned awkward to tunnel in so far to weld them.

[Manxman]

At last: 5L is on engine stand, ready to dismantle-I'll start tomorrow. Lets hope it's not major troubles. Hopefully just a wash-out, regrind, a rod & rings. I really hope I'm that blessed. Box floor has warped a bit when I welded the mounting rails onto it. Too hot, too soon, too close together. Will have to grind it back and re-do it. MIG welding is eazy! E-shields are excellent!

[Manxman]

Just quickly: re-5L

Does anyone know whether if I remove the crank, I can pull the pistons out thru' the sump? are there obstructions?

I'm looking at the extra work/special tools to remove the head, and trying to avoid it.

Also, do I HAVE to remove front eng cover [seal holder] to remove crank?

tks

[JDM-GTFour]

Mate you've had some struggles... I personally have gone with a 1kz.. so much easier..

[Manxman]

Well, now I know....

All rods have some movement!--click a little.

#3 main shell is picked up, all journals LOOK ok. All brg shells have chatter marks, 1 & 2 mains shells have a groove from solid in oil. All wear appears light, except for the rub marks on the counterweights from rod side play.

Still removing front sprocket to remove front housing, but it looks like a polish and new shells at this stage.

I congratulate the driver for shutting it off soon enough.

Some water in brgs [from long storage?]

[Manxman]

Crank is out! Pistons cannot come thru' sump-the main bearing housings overhang the edge of the bores. Somehow I have to invert the motor against gravity and pull the head off. I was trying to avoid that, as I'll have to get a double hex socket for the head bolts, replace the head bolts and & get/hire a tool to hold the cam pulley so it can be undone. ...$$$$$. A new water pump & thermostat are mandatory, along with rings, a cam belt and idlers. It had better go when I put it together again, for a long, long time. There's no lip in the base of the bores. An engine mount rubber is broken. I'm waiting for the temp to drop so I can move the hot crank to a safe spot. I'll use the eng lifter to right the motor in the stand. That will do for the day.

[Manxman]

Good news! regrind mains only, 1st u'size, polish bigends, crack test. $180.

In spite of my previous comments on the matter, I'm now considering my new need to live rural, almost abandoning commuter driving, & travel often at 90-110kph with mild load for regular middle and long distances. Fitting the CT20 turbo from the 2.4 motor to the 5L, and NEVER exceeding 3200rpm on full load. I'm hoping the small turbo can keep up with the 5L at that speed [or have new turbine/impeller fitted to upgrade it] without overspeeding itself and when on full load, a compensator-equipped fuel pump can chuck in enough fuel to make it worth while when needed, and the turbo giving better economy from the higher compression of full boost from 23KW, without exceeding the thermal capacity of the head. As I don't expect to use the top 1000rpm, I'm hoping the turbo can keep up with my lower needs.

Q

I have a 2LII head on the 2.4, with bucket shim cam followers. Will the manifold adapter fit the 5L, pls?

[Manxman]

Cam has run too dry and a paste of rusty ground wastes has collected on the top of the shims. Cam is being pickled to clean it and will be reground. I couldn't buy the $110 new one from Qld on ebay-no stock, & 2-3mths to replace. Alt and starter are being reconned-brgs, brushes, re-cut slip rings/commutator. Not major, but due. Have determined that turbo manifold adapter will fit 5L, so I'll recon the turbo and tidy up port alignments, and fit a straight out tailpipe later, after any lic check. That will drop the back pressure which is currently inhibiting turbo performance.

[Manxman]

Anyone know how thick the hardfacing is on the cam?

[Manxman]

New rings on old pistons, gapped & fitted. No#4 piston mildly picked up on all quadrants, 45 deg offset from gudgeon pin. Rubbed back with 240 grit emery, and removed small overhanging wastes from oil ring recess. deglazed bores. Honing marks visible, pistons 1st OS not long ago. New mains 0.25mm u/s and big ends polished, std fitted. Have removed valves, but need a better quality spring compressor to re-assemble head. Too much flex. Need to make bench mounted spring compressor this weekend. Very sore from bending over all day trying to remove and refit the valves. New seals fitted. new Front and rear mains seals fitted, new water pump. Head washed down, inlet valve carbon deposits removed. will make tool tomorrow.

[JDM-GTFour]

I think your title for this build is a little misleading friend.. :) you started this back in Dec 2012.. I hope you get there before Dec 2014..

So much detail.. very impressive.. how about some pictures of all your hard work?

[Manxman]

Ready to swap motors again. 5L rebuilt. Waiting on manifold and turbo sump. Alt. S motor a few hoses coolant and she's done at last. I'm not doing this again. .

.

[Manxman]

20A direct feed run to ciggy socket w double adapter. 4mm^2 cable, will run 12-240V 180W inverter w usb o/p to operate dash cam, and laptop when parked. other side is for food cooler/heater. going to order steel plate and bar to complete cargo box next week. still have to remove tub and fix wiring at rear. need to beg borrow or make tool to change tappet shims. if make, will first make portable vice stand fromlarge dia heavy tube and wheel rim. need new/repaired fan speed resistors.

[Manxman]

Well, I'm still at it. The 5L is largely assembled, only the oil cooler, flywheel/clutch, ex manifold and turbo to be mounted.

I'll prob have it in by Mon night. I've had to keep the 2L alternator and it's engine mount bracket as my later alt has been lost. It will also allow the use of an A/C pump. My fan resistors are burned out, and my easiest solution is to install a PWM 50A DC speed controller. Then I can choose any speed I like, rather than just 1 of 4 presets. It shouldn't ever burn out, and is cost effective compared to new resistor module. My 5L flywheel is too rusty now, so I'll use the 2L one: they seem similar mass and shape. The clutch plate is already correct for the 5L.

I want to use the Jackmaster filter, so a side mounted oil filter is best. My 2l one is corroded, and I'm considering microwaving it up to abt 620 deg C to use Durafix welding rods as filler on it, then filing down any lumps on a gasket face. O'wise I have to find an industrial oven to borrow/hire to heat the unit evenly. Perhaps a pottery kiln?

I need to measure the cam lobe heights to determine if my re-ground cam is safe to use. Can't find my reference data for that. EDIT: 53.8mm & 54.5mm minimums, both +0.5mm max. Will inspect early tomorrow to see if serviceable.

My turbo is an early CT20A, with 2 water cooling ports-both blanked off. It has a ball-valve bypass system, and there is vertical play in the compressor brg, and some rotational drag. I suspect it has been running with large quantities of oil in the compressor from great engine blowby and seal failure. So far, there's no visible damage.......

Oil losses were abt 4L/hr! Most onto the ex manifold heat shield and thence the ground or blown abt the eng bay.

Great fire risk-I consider myself foolish and blessed.

Cleaning my undersides for inspection will be a tough job. I have a Karcher sprayer, will hook it up to a gravity tank of hot water and use a good liquid soap, on the lawn. Any recommendations?

My catch can needs rebuilding, as it's a poor design, having no natural perimeter swirl, internal mesh nor centralized discharge. Looks pretty, cost lots, but doesn't work much. Must be made in Australia-it's their usual tradesmens' standard of product.

Not far to go now.

New tyres, get lowering done, install and set up motor, build box for tray, sort rear lights/brakes out, get it weighed, get a dynometer printout, get the chassis certified. Get inspected, get it licensed. So near and yet so far- and $$ all the way. I hope my engine isn't harmed by going on the dyno without being run in. I'm not adjusting the fuel system, so there shouldn't be any more power than stock, but I expect it to be available at lower rpm. The turbo may strangle towards full engine speed-but I don't operate there so it won't matter.

Edited July 6, 2014 by Manxman