Nearly sorted, end in sight.

[Manxman]

REJOICE one and ALL! My 5L is in the engine bay, has 2 bolts thru' the mounts and is flush with the bellhousing. Seems I have a slight jam when rotating motor-suspect bad cam timing. Need to look up correct proceedure for 5L. I may have cam 90 deg advancedwith the mark pointing down on the cam sprocket at TDC. The 2L points to the right, but there appears to be an alignment mark on the front engine housing below the sprocket, so I used that. If wrong, it's easily fixed, as no force applied to the stop. My ex ports are the same from both heads, so I expect my turbo manifold to go straight on. I have some metal filling to do on my side-mounted oil filter cover, where it has suffered some corrosion under the gasket for the heat exchanger. Not much for 25yrs use, but enough to require intervention. New one >$500 if available!!! China/Amazon might have something..... Care, blowtorch, 600degC and Durafix should get it.

Taking it slow, no rush. Will prob get b'housing done tomorrow, and the rest of the eng mounts, starter, wiring and fuel system. I'll correct the timing error and fit the fan, cooling plumbing and belts as I can.

EDIT: Looks like my eng sprocket is abt 1T advanced, as I set the keyway vertical, rather than 1T left. Easy fix.

Edited July 10, 2014 by Manxman

[Manxman]

Spline nut on turbo delaying its reconditioning, but o'wise it seems ok. Very surprised no damage from the excess oil in the compressor chamber. Can't explain why oil escaped periphery of chamber--seems no O ring normally fitted, tho it was a tight fit to get circlip off. Snail came away easy. Very oily and dirty. Not closely inspected/cleaned yet. Repair kit is for CT20 - they say all parts fit. Just re-found my w/shop CD-priceless!!!! Waiting on delivery of used oil cooler w horizontally mounted filter. Can't mount manifold or turbo without it. Need some new bolts-2 eng mount and 1 lowest bellhousing. Will get hi tensile or shear strength to mount engine. inspection may not like mild steel bolts there.

EDIT: Unit last assembled without a compressor O ring. So, I'll assume I'm not the 1st to dismantle it. Brgs have abt 0.5mm play. Compressor disc dia =57mm. Unit branded "CT20 Toyota" by raised casting. Judging by the turbo oil drain, it was from a 2LII-T block and head. I think I should be grateful the O ring is missing, as the oil buildup would have done a lot of damage otherwise. Just means it couldn't produce a propper boost either.

Edited July 16, 2014 by Manxman

[Manxman]

I've refitted a 2L starter motor and flywheel set to my 5L. Now, as I wind over the motor with a torque wrench, I hear a ratcheting buzz from the starter area. I don't think I have it inverted [the motor is away from the block], but I'm wondering what the noise is? Apart from that, the motor is timed, the fan is on and I'm short the small top mount for the aircon bracket for the 2L-the one onto the head. Degreased the turbo and a few other messy bits. I also need a replacement power steering pulley, as the old one distorted too much getting it off. Pathetic that you HAVE to remove the [fragile] pulley to take the pivot bolt out. A slightly bigger pulley set would allow a hole further out to loosen/withdraw the bolt. Belt speed/wear wouldn't be a problem. Might cost 20-30 cents more to do.

[Manxman]

Finally got the nut off the turbo compressor. Now I'm having difficulty with the compressor itself. I know they aren't usually tight or locktited, so it should come off without damages. Can't locate my old turbo maintenance files, so I don't know if it's on a taper/spline/keyed/parallel shaft. Perhaps some hot water would free it? there's nothing to grip, and I doubt knocking the shaft in will help. Perhaps someone kind could post a set of detailed instructions......

EDIT: It's a parallel shaft, I just had to wind the compressor around whilst pulling it off. I've got all but the last bearing out from the front of the unit, and the shaft won't release and pull out from the rear. I haven't removed the rear volute, so I'll do that before I claim it's stuck. The brgs were worn somewhat, and it looks like it was leaking oil.

Edited July 29, 2014 by Manxman

[Manxman]

Turbo air horn circlip being difficult to refit. Most works accomplished. Mid tray plate installed-as a place to band-mount empty 700L chest freezer with ends cut off/open for doors. Fuel filler can have decent decline angle in motor area. Few jobs to go before certification, inspection and lic. Drivers medical next week-might pre-empt a lot of things if not renewed.

Anyone got a spare L series boost compensator device? I think I should test one, even if I don't keep one on it. If I have to sell, would be advantage?

Keep the faith, drive to stay alive.

[Manxman]

Advice please:

will someone post how to swap a boost compensator between 2 fuel pumps: 2L & 5L. [tho I think they're the same pump] I'm unsure of how to do it. My DVD reader is dead, so I have no manual atm..

[Manxman]

Pls anyone know what other motors use the 2L-T boost compensator? (inc the top plate on the pump?) I've plumbed most of the oil lines, but not all. I have mounted the oil filter.

Edited September 24, 2014 by Manxman

[Manxman]

I'm getting a 92 2LT surf pump with boost comp, and need to know what to do to transfer the boost comp system into my 99 5L pump. please advise.

[Manxman]

I have to remove the oil cooler [and ex manifold?] to drill and tap an M10 hole for a banjo oil feed to the turbo or vacuum pump. Due to loose sand abt carport, I can't risk leaving motor open for long, so need a week or so uninterrupted to do it. There isn't a lot else left to do. Finish lowering the car and replace the damaged torsion bar, sort rear lights, weigh it, certify the motor output and the chassis mods-then license and drive it.

I've decided that a dead 700L chest freezer can be strapped onto the mid-tray, and have it's ends cut off/open for doors. It will provide a large, insulated chamber for goods carriage. It will need 12V connections/lights. The motor shelf can provide a high fuel filler point.

New knees are great now, tho' can't squat or easily get down low unless I lie on the ground [15-30secs].

[Manxman]

Been having a break from the old girl. Now need to connect oil feeds & common drains to turbo & vacuum pump. Fit a pulley to my PS pump. That will finish the motor. I then have a rear suspension U bolt to install, swap out and in a RH torsion bar and adjust front suspension height down 38mm to match lowering blocks. Then I have to seal around the nut I've welded to the fuel tank for a drain, and remove the rear tub to repair the rear lights. When all that's done It can go to the weighbridge, dynometer and engineer for certifications and the be inspected for lic, and lic'ed. Then it's driveable. Wish Me Luck, it's nearly been a year doing this.

NB There is no oil flow restrictor at the inlet to the turbo-am I missing a part? I was going to hook it up from a 1/8"BSP feed. Pls warn me if that's wrong.

[Manxman]

Away from the job for a few more days. Concern: Does the oil inlet feed for the CT20 turbo connect directly to the drain, or is that in a separate chamber fed via the bearings--I can't remember what I saw when appart..

[Manxman]

Torsion bar captive in chassis unless I cut it or undo lower wishbone. Exhaust prevents it moving sideways enough to withdraw. Have decided to leave well enough alone and just reset the height of the front fenders to match the rear ones. That should be near enough. Hope it doesn't snap.

[Manxman]

Well, it's finally happened. I have enough reason to sell my car. It's an enormous capital & labour loss, but it has to be. Later, I can start again with a dual cab.

Status: R F torsion bolt removed. Turbo not mounted. R axle U bolts need trimming and final tighten. Tappets need adjusting. R tub needs bolting down and drivers side rear lights need sorting-some not working well.

Yellow sticker (square) for insecure tray, oil leaks ans bad rear lights.

Chassis mods, engine kW, Tare certificates needed for license

Edited March 20, 2015 by trentmeyer23
Member not permitted to sell vehicles on this forum.

[trentmeyer23]

You are not permitted to sell vehicles on this forum, please read the buy and sell rules.

http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/topic/42346-updated-buy-and-sell-rules/

[Manxman]

Appologies: wasn't thinking. won't repeat

[Manxman]

Front suspension is almost right. Car is on level ground and I've set a common height between the wheel arches above the axle and a shared point on the tyres. Looking at the roof curve against the verandah opposite I can see a slightly greater drop on the passenger side. It'll be just a few mm at the arch.

I can't find a level to check it with, but I'm satisfied how true the car roof, the carport floor and the opposite verandah are. Myfront tyres are similarly worn and inflated.

Tomorrow, I'll fully insert a bottle brush cleaner into the front vertical tube on the oil cooler so I can drill and tap an hole for a banjo bolt to feed the turbo oil supply, and then clean the tube propperly without removing the oil cooler. That will prevent swarf problems.

I'm in no rush to change the valve shims, mount/connect the turbo, test the new motor, smooth the rear axle U bolt protrusions nor fully tighten their nuts. My last jobs before clearing the canary is to remove the tub, fix the rear lights then propperly remount the tub. Then a wash and polish. A few more hours work and it's DONE. I can build a cargo box later.

[Manxman]

Well, the oil cooler has a 1/8" NPT thread and an hosetail on the pump side for a 1/4" hose to feed the vacuum pump. Took <15min today. Can now finish mounting the turbo and get a bit else more done tomorrow. It will be re-registered early Sept, unless I have to sort the brakes--which is likely, given its age. I've had it 5 yrs and not done them. It could prob do with tyres too. My friends say I've spent >$15K on it overall. I don't know. At least it wasn't all at once. I've carried minimal debt for the first 3 yrs, and it's been off the road since Sept 2012..

Edited May 15, 2015 by Manxman

[trentmeyer23]

Do you not own a camera?

[Manxman]

I do, but I don't know how to put pics in a post here. My computer skills are hardware design, manufacture and maintenance, not software oriented. Give me good instruction and I'll oblige tomorrow--if no rain.

[trentmeyer23]

Sign up to photobucket.com, upload photos to there. Obtain the link for the photo from Photobucket and place it between [img^] and [/img^]' in your reply box. Remove the ^ from the code prior to posting, it has been used for demonstration so that the code does not activate.

[Manxman]

Like this?

Edited May 16, 2015 by trentmeyer23

[CONROD]

I am hanging out to see what 3 years and $15000 produces and by the sounds of it quite a few more $$$$ yet to be spent.

[Manxman]

I suspect it's not $15K, but it's nearly done and it's mine. I've started screwing in the fittings to bring the turbo/alternator 3/8"BSP oil drain up from the sump to the alternator, but need a 1" extension to level the drain inlet. Hope the turbo drain pipe doesn't have to be cut to clear the hosetail on top of the T fitting. 12 deg, too cold!!! Shivering, gales outside. At least it doesn't get a lot worse, 4 frosts per year., a few fogs and not enough rain. At least my NOS Lifan 250 scooter will be going this time next week, or sooner. 2010 model, never been sold til abt a month ago. 2.4km on it. $800- as is where is, bad f brake and thermofan switch. Both fixed-ready to go. Bargain!!!!

[trentmeyer23]

I have edited your post with how to do it correctly for one photo only. You posted the link to the gallery, where as you need to do it for the image in order for it to appear as above. If you click edit on that post, you will be able to see the layout.

[Manxman]

Edited May 16, 2015 by Manxman