Nearly sorted, end in sight.

[Manxman]

I fear I'm going to do something dumb, so I'll ask first..

I need an enclosed cargo space behind the driver of my s'cab chassis.

I can continue to build a box with doors, or, try to afford a professional mod, but no-one seems interested in Perth. The body builders don't make short tray bodies (760mm req'd), and they're too wide (1.8M v 1.6M) and they don't have floors. (!=950mm h) I can't easily see why they won't do it, unless they're afraid it'll be too $$$ to modify an existing kit.

So, can anyone please tell me what's involved in changing a s'cab body to a dual cab body of the same series? Is it purely bolt off/on, or is there cut and weld involved. Assume bare shells. as much detail as practical please. If cut and weld, where should I cut for simplicity. NB a closed rear chamber is not unacceptable. Thx.

[trentmeyer23]

All trays will bolt on from factory. That is what allows them to swap tray and tubs.

[Manxman]

I'm preparing to spin my rebuilt motor to get oil pumped round it.   I'll remove the glowplugs to make it easier.

I've bought a 1-4A  pulse charger battery desulphating charger from melb. Boforce Intelligent charger $59-- ebay.  It's cheaper than a new battery i'll only use 3 times in the next year.

I'm testing it on an old 4cyl car battery that hasn't been charged for some 3yrs.   it's currently sitting on 11.7V at the 3rd hour of the third restoritive charge and it's pretty hot.   

There's about a 10% duty cycle of reverse charge spike every 6 seconds to re-absorb the sulphate.    I'm undecided whether the programming is timed, or floating.   The first charge ended very close to 4hrs duration, so I'm suss, but maybe that's a fluke.    I suspect that this battery is too far gone and too small to spin my diesel, but I'm satisfied the idea works, and that a sulphated battery is at least partly recoverable and fit for purpose.   I doubt it can turn the motor with so little oc voltage, and it hasn't risen for 2.5 hrs @ 4A.   

 

[Manxman]

Battery is Varta 72Ah 360A DIN   680A EN/SAE    Charge at 4A took >14hrs<18.5hrs to charge  11.7V ->14.5V @ 14hrs.   Suggest batt down abt 30% on first charge.    Will retry it in car Mon.  I'm dreading what I get, as a partly reverse charged batt was installed.  Nothing worked but the sparks wern't huge, so perhaps the alternator took all the current and saved the electronics?   I'm being hopeful, we'll see it I'm being real.     Charger has Video card fan installed for cooling 0.2W, o'wise it whisps of smoke after a few hours on full load.     Very bad-dangerous design.    Will notify seller. 

[Manxman]

I discovered this morning that I hadn't connected the fuse box power wire to the battery, so no harm done with reversal.  Also, starter motor power lead was shorting at the solenoid connection.   It needed a bend.    Then I cranked it.    Abt 90 seconds cramking with plugs out and we have oil pressure!!!   No leaks!!!   No nasty noises!!!     It's a great feeling, to have all that effort and time verified.     HOORAY!!!!

[Manxman]

REJOICE!!!  My motor runs!!!!!   Unfortunately, it has a knock-suspect No#4 ex tappet, which is almost 0.40mm clearance.  The knock was quite distinct and cam speed, and it's the biggest gap, so I guess that's it.  I wasn't game to run it long enuff to check where the sound was orginating.    I'll check the cam bearing caps for tightness, jic.    full oil pressure immediately,   No leaks of any kind.   The battle is almost won.    anyone know how to pull out a fuel tank from a lowered [38mm] LN147R?   I need to close up a puncture.   Anyone got a spare 2L-T(e) rocker cover?    I need one.    

Electronic battery desuphators work, IME.    Mine has been on for 4 weeks, and resurrected a sulphated but <4yo battery that's been idle 12 mths.   .    I bought mine as an assembled kit on ebay for abt $10-, and it works.   I've permanently attached it to my trickle charger, rather than my car.   I disconnect my Earth cable when charging.    It's been over 3 yrs since I started this.   I'm horrified it took so long.     

 

[Manxman]

Problem: I've dropped a cut down stainless steel fork into a cambox oil drain on the No#3 Inlet valve area. 

 

It was abt 4cm long, abt 1cm wide and abt 2mm thick.  waisted in center area., not straight.   

Could this have caught in the top of the sump so that the crankshaft can hit or squash it against c'case upper.?   How to remove/break it off if it has?   reversing motor difficult unless I remove starter and lever it back.   Am I likely to have damaged anything if so?    How hard to remove sump in situ?  LN147R, 5L motor.