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Posted

Hi all today I had a dead battery so I jump started it once driving up the road 1km car went into limp mode it did this for the next few Kms ended up getting it home engine warning light is still on what is this cause and wat should I do car is a 2010 toyota hilux turbo diesel

Posted

Yo know what it could be we would need to know what faults it is. What is the engine light doing? is it constantly on or flashing, if flashing how many times?

Why did your battery die? Have you put a good battery in the car now?

Posted

Battery went flat because I had radio on for too long still has the same battery in it from factory

Engine light is staying on

Posted

I would just disconnect the battery - stomp on the brake pedal to drain the electrical system and reconnect everything. that will reset the CEL.

in my experience the main reason hilux's go into limp mode is due to excessive engine knock from faulty injectors. Is your lux blowing a lot of black smoke and very noisy when cold?


  • 1 month later...
Posted

ok so I have found out what codes are coming up I am getting codes p0087 and p0191

the warning light seems to come on if I give car a lot of acceleration

warning light clears itself in the morning but if I give to much power it will come back on

Posted

Are you running a chip in your car? These are common fault codes for D4D engines that have been chipped with those chips which play with fuel pressure increases only as opposed to fuel pressure and injection duration as well.

P0087 = Fuel Rail Pressure too low

P0191 = Fuel Rail Pressure sensor fault

If a styandard D4D engine could well be the fuel rail pressure sensor that is buggered and giving low fuel pressure signals to the ecu and then entering into limp mode. Could be a faulty common rail pump (hope for you that it is not that as they are not cheap). either way if ti is the sensor you cant just buy the sensor separately, you have to buy the whole common rail which is around $1600 from toyota.

Best bet is to take it along to your Toyota dealer or a good diesel mechanic and get them to diagnose.

either way there is an issue with some component of the injection system so worth getting it fixed. driving around with leaning out diesel engine is a good way to cause overheating and blown engines.

Posted (edited)

Mechanical injection is still a good idea IMHO. It seems slower to fail, and although expensive to overhaul and the metering/spray pattern is worse, it's a much more reliable system, especially if your life depends on it. Retrofitting conventional fuel systems should be an option for ALL EFI vehicles for affordable, fixable DIY reliability. Anyone can fix a carb. Very few can fix EFI, esp in remote places. Not enough shared components or technologies. Too complex & expensive todiagnose/ repair/replace on site in remote Australia.

Edited by Manxman

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