Still low end problems...

[negatron]

Hi all,

For those that have been followig, I plonked at stivo catback into my auto ascent some weeks back and had this HUGE loss of low end torque.

And my revs in gear 4 are amazingly low (mid 2ks) and raise real slowly.

All the symptoms of a too large zorst.

I was thinking, what if i get a piece of metal the same shape as the cat-> axle back flange and then drill a 2in hole into it and shove it in between the flange.

Effectively i'll be making the inlet to the muffler smaller (2 1/4 inch down to 2 inch) an and most likely creating a bit more back pressure which may fix my problems.

Is this an insanely stupid idea? or is it so crazy it may just work?

Inputs from the gurus pls.

[CAP]

Why not go back to stock seeing it went better that way ? Did you turf it ?

But the DIY restrictor isn't such a bad idea, it may cause a funny exhaust drone because of the way it will disrupt the gas flow.

[justin_es]

hmm no idea haha

best bet would be go talk to a exhaust mechanic see what he says

speak to a few of them

some people say cannons are too big for stivos and you lose power but i dont it sounds so good i dont want to go back to another muffler

i guess ill save up some dollars and do a dyno test with cannon vs mufflers

before people claim its been done, it hasnt has to be same car sameday same dyno

cheers

[Mello]

if your willing to sell that hunk a junk =D id be willing to snap it up... dibs on the stuffed stivo exhaust

[CORZZA]

Personally i think the stivo exhaust is only good on the stivo. Because its been set up for the stivos bigger head bigger outlet manifold. the stivo is a fine tuned machine!

[Mintos]

Quite an amusing idea there negatron, theoretically it should work.

However i wouldnt just be "shoving" it into your exhaust, try and weld it on the side inside the flange, because that piece of metal will be under quite high pressure if it is to be functioning as you intend it to and you dont want it moving around in there.

Also, how long would this piece of metal be? I am assuming you are talking about a metal cylinder that you are going to drill out. I would think that it would need to be at least around 5cm, probably more to work. Also if you give it more of a lip design to reduce the pressure at that particular point in the exhaust may help - kind of hard to explain, check out my ASCII pic hehe.

I am no exhaust guru but from the pros i have spoken to and logical knowledge i think this could have interesting results. If the losses are that bad, doing this wont hurt, so long as you still have your stock exhaust to fall back on.

Cheers

PS. ok the ASCII didnt work out - stupid forum...so here is a pic of the ASCII as it should be.

Edited November 21, 2005 by Mintos

[shaohaok]

i think it's your torque converter that's having a fit with a new powerband.

Edited November 21, 2005 by shaohaok

[CORZZA]

i think it's your torque converter that's having a fit.

←

where is that situated? is it a sensor or a whole unit?

[negatron]

Quite an amusing idea there negatron, theoretically it should work.

However i wouldnt just be "shoving" it into your exhaust, try and weld it on the side inside the flange, because that piece of metal will be under quite high pressure if it is to be functioning as you intend it to and you dont want it moving around in there.

Also, how long would this piece of metal be? I am assuming you are talking about a metal cylinder that you are going to drill out. I would think that it would need to be at least around 5cm, probably more to work. Also if you give it more of a lip design to reduce the pressure at that particular point in the exhaust may help - kind of hard to explain, check out my ASCII pic hehe.

I am no exhaust guru but from the pros i have spoken to and logical knowledge i think this could have interesting results. If the losses are that bad, doing this wont hurt, so long as you still have your stock exhaust to fall back on.

Cheers

PS. ok the ASCII didnt work out - stupid forum...so here is a pic of the ASCII as it should be.

←

Nah, i was actually thinking of making i with bolt hole that the existing ones will gh through, it won't be a pipe but literally a piece of metal with a hole in it. but then again the rusty logic in my head thinks that the turbulance this "hole in the wall" might be bad.

I like the idea of your idea mintos, but this is sounding both expensive and it WILL make a clanging noise as the free part of the pipe vibrates and knocks against the zorst wall.

[Romp]

Quite an amusing idea there negatron, theoretically it should work.

However i wouldnt just be "shoving" it into your exhaust, try and weld it on the side inside the flange, because that piece of metal will be under quite high pressure if it is to be functioning as you intend it to and you dont want it moving around in there.

Also, how long would this piece of metal be? I am assuming you are talking about a metal cylinder that you are going to drill out. I would think that it would need to be at least around 5cm, probably more to work. Also if you give it more of a lip design to reduce the pressure at that particular point in the exhaust may help - kind of hard to explain, check out my ASCII pic hehe.

I am no exhaust guru but from the pros i have spoken to and logical knowledge i think this could have interesting results. If the losses are that bad, doing this wont hurt, so long as you still have your stock exhaust to fall back on.

Cheers

PS. ok the ASCII didnt work out - stupid forum...so here is a pic of the ASCII as it should be.

←

Nah, i was actually thinking of making i with bolt hole that the existing ones will gh through, it won't be a pipe but literally a piece of metal with a hole in it. but then again the rusty logic in my head thinks that the turbulance this "hole in the wall" might be bad.

I like the idea of your idea mintos, but this is sounding both expensive and it WILL make a clanging noise as the free part of the pipe vibrates and knocks against the zorst wall.

←

was the stock ascent exhaust 2 inch all the way thru?

man i would nto of expected it to lose torque from a 2.25inch exhaust ... u need to reset the ECU or something? lol

maybe best bet is to go stock exhaust and just chang ethe muffler

[Buddha]

Quite an amusing idea there negatron, theoretically it should work.

However i wouldnt just be "shoving" it into your exhaust, try and weld it on the side inside the flange, because that piece of metal will be under quite high pressure if it is to be functioning as you intend it to and you dont want it moving around in there.

Also, how long would this piece of metal be? I am assuming you are talking about a metal cylinder that you are going to drill out. I would think that it would need to be at least around 5cm, probably more to work. Also if you give it more of a lip design to reduce the pressure at that particular point in the exhaust may help - kind of hard to explain, check out my ASCII pic hehe.

I am no exhaust guru but from the pros i have spoken to and logical knowledge i think this could have interesting results. If the losses are that bad, doing this wont hurt, so long as you still have your stock exhaust to fall back on.

Cheers

PS. ok the ASCII didnt work out - stupid forum...so here is a pic of the ASCII as it should be.

←

Nah, i was actually thinking of making i with bolt hole that the existing ones will gh through, it won't be a pipe but literally a piece of metal with a hole in it. but then again the rusty logic in my head thinks that the turbulance this "hole in the wall" might be bad.

I like the idea of your idea mintos, but this is sounding both expensive and it WILL make a clanging noise as the free part of the pipe vibrates and knocks against the zorst wall.

←

was the stock ascent exhaust 2 inch all the way thru?

man i would nto of expected it to lose torque from a 2.25inch exhaust ... u need to reset the ECU or something? lol

maybe best bet is to go stock exhaust and just chang ethe muffler

←

The standard exhaust on the 1ZZ is 1.75" ... we have a 2" system from the resonator back to an Ultraflo muffler (in addition to a K&N panel filter, but no ECU reset) and there's been a noticable improvement in the bottom end. It seems like the auto is hunting a lot, but I think its always been like that, its just louder and more noticable now.

Mind you, you're the only person I know of that has the Stivo exhaust on an auto ... anyone who has done the same would be great to hear from.

[Mintos]

Quite an amusing idea there negatron, theoretically it should work.

However i wouldnt just be "shoving" it into your exhaust, try and weld it on the side inside the flange, because that piece of metal will be under quite high pressure if it is to be functioning as you intend it to and you dont want it moving around in there.

Also, how long would this piece of metal be? I am assuming you are talking about a metal cylinder that you are going to drill out. I would think that it would need to be at least around 5cm, probably more to work. Also if you give it more of a lip design to reduce the pressure at that particular point in the exhaust may help - kind of hard to explain, check out my ASCII pic hehe.

I am no exhaust guru but from the pros i have spoken to and logical knowledge i think this could have interesting results. If the losses are that bad, doing this wont hurt, so long as you still have your stock exhaust to fall back on.

Cheers

PS. ok the ASCII didnt work out - stupid forum...so here is a pic of the ASCII as it should be.

←

Nah, i was actually thinking of making i with bolt hole that the existing ones will gh through, it won't be a pipe but literally a piece of metal with a hole in it. but then again the rusty logic in my head thinks that the turbulance this "hole in the wall" might be bad.

I like the idea of your idea mintos, but this is sounding both expensive and it WILL make a clanging noise as the free part of the pipe vibrates and knocks against the zorst wall.

←

ok so i missunderstood your proposed idea haha. Personally i would say attempting anything like this wouldnt be the best thing and you are probably better off reverting to your stock exhaust, if you still have it, however it is strange that your car is getting problems with a 2.25 from catback, as i have a 1zz (manual) and have full 2.5" with new cat, cannon and chunky a55 headers and I havnt exactly lost anything in the low end...

I would say maybe your ECU is having some issues, they are supposed to self adjust, but in some cases it is a stubborn unit. Take the car to an exhaust specialist to make sure that nothing is going wrong and if everything is sweet there then maybe get the factory ECU retuned at a dyno place or give it a reset (although this may not help if your ECU is faulty).

[Romp]

Quite an amusing idea there negatron, theoretically it should work.

However i wouldnt just be "shoving" it into your exhaust, try and weld it on the side inside the flange, because that piece of metal will be under quite high pressure if it is to be functioning as you intend it to and you dont want it moving around in there.

Also, how long would this piece of metal be? I am assuming you are talking about a metal cylinder that you are going to drill out. I would think that it would need to be at least around 5cm, probably more to work. Also if you give it more of a lip design to reduce the pressure at that particular point in the exhaust may help - kind of hard to explain, check out my ASCII pic hehe.

I am no exhaust guru but from the pros i have spoken to and logical knowledge i think this could have interesting results. If the losses are that bad, doing this wont hurt, so long as you still have your stock exhaust to fall back on.

Cheers

PS. ok the ASCII didnt work out - stupid forum...so here is a pic of the ASCII as it should be.

←

Nah, i was actually thinking of making i with bolt hole that the existing ones will gh through, it won't be a pipe but literally a piece of metal with a hole in it. but then again the rusty logic in my head thinks that the turbulance this "hole in the wall" might be bad.

I like the idea of your idea mintos, but this is sounding both expensive and it WILL make a clanging noise as the free part of the pipe vibrates and knocks against the zorst wall.

←

ok so i missunderstood your proposed idea haha. Personally i would say attempting anything like this wouldnt be the best thing and you are probably better off reverting to your stock exhaust, if you still have it, however it is strange that your car is getting problems with a 2.25 from catback, as i have a 1zz (manual) and have full 2.5" with new cat, cannon and chunky a55 headers and I havnt exactly lost anything in the low end...

I would say maybe your ECU is having some issues, they are supposed to self adjust, but in some cases it is a stubborn unit. Take the car to an exhaust specialist to make sure that nothing is going wrong and if everything is sweet there then maybe get the factory ECU retuned at a dyno place or give it a reset (although this may not help if your ECU is faulty).

←

isnt 2.5inch a bit big for a N/A 1.8L car? esp with cannon sitting on the end?

[justin_es]

possibly hehe but not on my sportivo

and yes also a cannon on the back end too

[MR22ZZ]

if your willing to sell that hunk a junk =D id be willing to snap it up... dibs on the stuffed stivo exhaust 

←

OI... careful what you are calling stuffed!!! worked fine when connected to my car :P

[negatron]

if your willing to sell that hunk a junk =D id be willing to snap it up... dibs on the stuffed stivo exhaust 

←

OI... careful what you are calling stuffed!!! worked fine when connected to my car :P

←

hahah

it ain't junk, mellos just tryin to psych me to sell it... tell ya what, i'l take all the levin trims and swap ya for the stivo zorst? hahahahhaha

but there's no way i'm paying another hr of labour to my muffler guy to go back to stock. But i'll probably be the first guy to walk into a muffler shop and ask for a more restrictive setup...

[negatron]

The standard exhaust on the 1ZZ is 1.75" ... we have a 2" system from the resonator back to an Ultraflo muffler (in addition to a K&N panel filter, but no ECU reset) and there's been a noticable improvement in the bottom end.  It seems like the auto is hunting a lot, but I think its always been like that, its just louder and more noticable now.

Mind you, you're the only person I know of that has the Stivo exhaust on an auto ... anyone who has done the same would be great to hear from.

←

Erm... what's hunting?

[negatron]

ok so i missunderstood your proposed idea haha. Personally i would say attempting anything like this wouldnt be the best thing and you are probably better off reverting to your stock exhaust, if you still have it, however it is strange that your car is getting problems with a 2.25 from catback, as i have a 1zz (manual) and have full 2.5" with new cat, cannon and chunky a55 headers and I havnt exactly lost anything in the low end...

I would say maybe your ECU is having some issues, they are supposed to self adjust, but in some cases it is a stubborn unit. Take the car to an exhaust specialist to make sure that nothing is going wrong and if everything is sweet there then maybe get the factory ECU retuned at a dyno place or give it a reset (although this may not help if your ECU is faulty).

←

How can the stock ecu be tuned by a dyno place? there's no inputs is there? sounds like a job for emanage!

Who wants to shout me one?

[shaohaok]

i think it's your torque converter that's having a fit.

←

where is that situated? is it a sensor or a whole unit?

←

it's wat autos have between the engine and the gearbox instead of a clutch.

[CORZZA]

oh ok cool! im not clued up on my autos!

[Mintos]

isnt 2.5inch a bit big for a N/A 1.8L car? esp with cannon sitting on the end?

←

Surprisingly not, even N/A I have gains all round, but i dont plan on keeping it N/A which is why i chose such a setup, as it will benefit me in the long run :D

If you come to the Sydney meet this weekend mate you can see how loud the 1zz can be, hehe.

Edited November 22, 2005 by Mintos

[Northy]

dunno what you guys are doing, up here in QLD two of the guys have had noticable gains with the stivo catback on a 1zz-fe, they were both manuals tho...

[negatron]

dunno what you guys are doing, up here in QLD two of the guys have had noticable gains with the stivo catback on a 1zz-fe, they were both manuals tho...

←

Yeah, North. The manuals seem to have much better gains on a stivo catback (which helped me make the decision to get it) but it seems that the auto ECU and the entire auto setup is not allowing for the same gains.

Nothin cheap or povo happen'in here, went to a proper zorst shop to get it fitted.

[CAP]

Could it be the combination of your SRI and Stivo Cat back is not agreeing with the Auto's low end torque needs ?

[DRF122R]

hmm i just installed my Stivo catback on my 05 Accent Sport Hatch

I havent resetted ECU yet doing that now with optimax fuel in

Will see results tomorrow :P

But then i have felt gains in low range already without reset and im still on standard air filter paper panel no other performance mods made.